# Presentation: 402672

## NWS WFO Jacksonville SWAN Model 

- Andrew Shashy, Mark Price and Art Wildman
- March 23, 2006

- Version 1.3 – 20080613

##  Coastal Waters Forecast
 Special Marine Warnings
 Coastal Flood Warnings
 Marine Weather Statements
 Heavy Surf Advisories
 Hazardous Weather Outlook
 Surf Zone Forecast

** ****Coastal Waters Forecast**
** ****Special Marine Warnings**
** ****Coastal Flood Warnings**
** ****Marine Weather Statements**
** ****Heavy Surf Advisories**
** ****Hazardous Weather Outlook**
** ****Surf Zone Forecast**

**Local NWS Marine Products**

## Buoy Observations – 
     (NDBC, CDIP Scripps, SkIO Grays Reef)
CMAN Coastal Observation Sites
SkIO R2 Navy Tower at Grays Reef
VOS Marine Ship observations
NOAA NOS Tidal Gauges
Satellite – Quikscat, cloud motion vectors

**Buoy Observations – **
**     ****(****NDBC, CDIP Scripps, SkIO Grays Reef)**
**CMAN Coastal Observation Sites**
**SkIO R2 Navy Tower at Grays Reef**
**VOS Marine Ship observations**
**NOAA NOS Tidal Gauges**
**Satellite – Quikscat, cloud motion vectors**

***Marine Data Sources***

## Marine Observations

**Marine Observations**

## Slide 5

## Slide 6

## Slide 7

## Slide 8

## Surf Observations?

## Jax Beach Life Guard Station

## Slide 11

## SWAN Model

**S**imulating **WA**ves **N**earshore
- A third generation wave model-meaning non-linear wave interaction is calculated
- Processes represented include propagation, shoaling, refraction, blocking and reflections by opposing currents or against obstacles.

## SWAN Processes

**Wave Generation by Wind**
**Dissipation of Waves by Whitecapping, Depth-Induced Breaking**
**Bottom Friction**
**Wave-Wave Interactions**

## Outer Grid (FG1)

## Inner Grid (FG2) 

## Boundary Conditions & Wind Inputs

**Western North Atlantic Wave Model (WNA)  (0.25 deg X 0.25 deg)**
**North Atlantic Hurricane Wave Model (NAH) (0.25 deg x 0.25 deg). Higher Wind Resolution than GFS**
**GFS 10m winds (0.25 deg X 0.25 deg)**

## WNA vs NAH

## SWAN NFL Specs(based on Eric Rogers CSI paper)http://www7320.nrlssc.navy.mil/CSI/

## Primary Outputs 

**Significant Wave Height**
**Peak Period **
**Wave Direction**
**Wave Set-up**
**Mean Wave Period and Direction**

## Primary Uses at WFO JAX

- Estimate Rip Current Potential Using Near Shore Water Waves
- Coastal Waters Forecast Wave Model
- Guidance For High Surf Advisories and potential for Beach Erosion/Coastal Flooding

## Breaker Height Estimate

- Surf based on deep water wave height, wave period, bathymetry, and wave angle
- Based on rough approximation from Steve Lyons model
- Bottom Friction and Shoaling taken into account
- More oblique angles create smaller surf

## Breaker/Surf ForecastsOutput of JAX SWAN Model - SWANGFS.txt

** ***********Station 41112 - Kings Bay, GA (132) - [30.72 N 81.29 W]*******           **
**  ****DATE     DEPTH   HS    PD      ****DIR   BREAKER HEIGHT**** (ANGLE OF INCIDENCE)**
**                   ****(FT)    (FT)   (S)      (360)    0 DEG       20 DEG      45 DEG**
**---------------------------------------------------------------------------------**
**03/17/00Z   49.8     2.1      4.2      ****127     2.40 ft     2.32 ft ****    2.02 ft **
**03/17/12Z   49.8     1.4      7.5      194     2.01 ft     1.95 ft     1.69 ft **
**03/18/00Z   49.8     1.4      2.9      345     1.51 ft     1.46 ft     1.27 ft **
**03/18/12Z****   49.8     2.6      6.2       ****60      3.24 ft     3.14 ft****     2.73 ft **
**03/19/00Z****   49.8     2.6      5.1       ****78      3.05 ft     2.96 ft****     2.57 ft **
**03/19/12Z   49.8     2.4      5.1       93      2.85 ft     2.77 ft     2.40 ft **
**03/20/00Z   49.8     2.6      5.7       91      3.16 ft     3.06 ft     2.66 ft **
**03/20/12Z   49.8     1.9      5.7      117     2.42 ft     2.35 ft     2.04 ft **
** ***********FERNANDINA BEACH*******           **
**DATE   DEPTH   HS       PD     **** ****DIR   BREAKER HEIGHT**** (ANGLE OF INCIDENCE)**
**                 ****(FT)    (FT)      (S)  (360)    0 DEG       20 DEG      45 DEG**
**---------------------------------------------------------------------------------**
**03/17/00Z    8.1     1.6      4.2      ****117     1.91 ft     1.85 ft****     1.60 ft **
**03/17/12Z    8.1     0.8      7.5      130     1.23 ft     1.19 ft     1.04 ft **
**03/18/00Z    8.1     0.7      6.8      110     1.07 ft     1.04 ft     0.90 ft **
**03/18/12Z****    8.1     1.7      6.2       ****80      2.26 ft     2.19 ft****     1.90 ft **
**03/19/00Z****    8.1     1.9      5.1       ****88      2.34 ft     2.27 ft****     1.97 ft **
**03/19/12Z    8.1     1.8      5.1      101     2.24 ft     2.17 ft     1.88 ft **
**03/20/00Z    8.1     1.8      5.7      100     2.31 ft     2.24 ft     1.94 ft **
**03/20/12Z    8.1     1.4      5.7      113     1.86 ft     1.81 ft     1.57 ft **
**NWS JAX SWAN  **_[http://](http://www.srh.noaa.gov/jax/SWANGFS.txt)__[www.srh.noaa.gov/jax/SWANGFS.txt](http://www.srh.noaa.gov/jax/SWANGFS.txt)_

## 
 ***ATLANTIC BEACH, FL***
 DATE    DEPTH   HS       PD     DIR   BREAKER HEIGHT (ANGLE OF INCIDENCE)
                   (FT)    (FT)     (S)     (360)    0 DEG       20 DEG      45 DEG
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
03/17/00Z   11.4     1.8      7.5      107     2.50 ft     2.42 ft     2.10 ft 
03/17/12Z   11.4     0.9      7.5      115     1.37 ft     1.32 ft     1.15 ft 
03/18/00Z   11.4     1.0      7.5       92     1.50 ft     1.45 ft     1.26 ft 
03/18/12Z   11.4     2.0      6.8       71     2.66 ft     2.58 ft     2.24 ft 
03/19/00Z   11.4     2.4      6.2       78     3.03 ft     2.94 ft     2.55 ft 
03/19/12Z   11.4     2.1      5.1       91     2.55 ft     2.47 ft     2.14 ft 
03/20/00Z   11.4     2.1      5.7       94     2.64 ft     2.56 ft     2.22 ft 
03/20/12Z   11.4     1.6      5.7      104     2.09 ft     2.03 ft    1.76 ft 

 ***SOUTH PONTE VEDRA BEACH, FL***         
  DATE      DEPTH   HS    PD    DIR   BREAKER HEIGHT (ANGLE OF INCIDENCE)
                    (FT)     (FT)   (S)    (360)    0 DEG       20 DEG      45 DEG
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
03/17/00Z   25.6     1.7      4.2      108     2.01 ft     1.95 ft     1.69 ft 
03/17/12Z   25.6     1.0      7.5      114    1.50 ft     1.45 ft     1.26 ft 
03/18/00Z   25.6     1.1      3.5       73     1.31 ft     1.27 ft     1.10 ft 
03/18/12Z   25.6     2.2      6.2       54     2.81 ft     2.73 ft     2.37 ft 
03/19/00Z   25.6     2.6      6.2       65     3.24 ft     3.14 ft     2.73 ft 
03/19/12Z   25.6     2.2      5.1       85     2.65 ft     2.57 ft     2.23 ft 
03/20/00Z   25.6     2.2      5.7       92     2.74 ft     2.66 ft     2.31 ft 
03/20/12Z   25.6     1.5      5.7      107    1.98 ft     1.92 ft     1.66 ft 

 ***St. Augustine, FL***           
  DATE      DEPTH  HS    PD       DIR   BREAKER HEIGHT (ANGLE OF INCIDENCE)
                    (FT)    (FT)    (S)     (360)    0 DEG       20 DEG      45 DEG
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
03/17/00Z   17.0     1.9      8.3      107    2.69 ft     2.61 ft     2.26 ft 
03/17/12Z   17.0     1.0      7.5      108    1.50 ft     1.45 ft     1.26 ft 
03/18/00Z   17.0     1.2      7.5       92     1.76 ft     1.70 ft     1.48 ft 
03/18/12Z   17.0     2.0      6.2       61     2.59 ft     2.51 ft     2.18 ft 
03/19/00Z   17.0     2.5      6.8       69     3.22 ft     3.12 ft     2.71 ft 
03/19/12Z   17.0     2.2      5.1       87     2.65 ft     2.57 ft     2.23 ft 
03/20/00Z   17.0     2.2      5.7       96     2.74 ft     2.66 ft     2.31 ft 
03/20/12Z   17.0     1.6      5.7      107    2.09 ft     2.03 ft     1.76 ft 

** ***********ATLANTIC BEACH, FL*********
** ****DATE    DEPTH   HS       PD     ****DIR   BREAKER HEIGHT**** (ANGLE OF INCIDENCE)**
**                   ****(FT)    (FT)     (S)     (360)    0 DEG       20 DEG      45 DEG**
**---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------**
**03/17/00Z   11.4     1.8      7.5      107     2.50 ft     2.42 ft     2.10 ft **
**03/17/12Z   11.4     0.9      7.5      115     1.37 ft     1.32 ft     1.15 ft **
**03/18/00Z   11.4     1.0      7.5       92     1.50 ft     1.45 ft     1.26 ft **
**03/18/12Z   11.4     2.0      6.8       71     2.66 ft     2.58 ft     2.24 ft **
**03/19/00Z****   11.4     2.4      6.2       ****78     3.03 ft     2.94 ft****     2.55 ft **
**03/19/12Z   11.4     2.1      5.1       91     2.55 ft     2.47 ft     2.14 ft **
**03/20/00Z   11.4     2.1      5.7       94     2.64 ft     2.56 ft     2.22 ft **
**03/20/12Z   11.4     1.6      5.7      104     2.09 ft     2.03 ft    1.76 ft **
** ***********SOUTH PONTE VEDRA BEACH, FL*******         **
**  ****DATE      DEPTH   HS    PD    ****DIR   BREAKER HEIGHT**** (ANGLE OF INCIDENCE)**
**                    ****(FT)     (FT)   (S)    (360)    0 DEG       20 DEG      45 DEG**
**---------------------------------------------------------------------------------**
**03/17/00Z   25.6     1.7      4.2      108     2.01 ft     1.95 ft     1.69 ft **
**03/17/12Z   25.6     1.0      7.5      114    1.50 ft     1.45 ft     1.26 ft **
**03/18/00Z   25.6     1.1      3.5       73     1.31 ft     1.27 ft     1.10 ft **
**03/18/12Z   25.6     2.2      6.2       54     2.81 ft     2.73 ft     2.37 ft **
**03/19/00Z****   25.6     2.6      6.2      **** 65     3.24 ft     3.14 ft****     2.73 ft **
**03/19/12Z   25.6     2.2      5.1       85     2.65 ft     2.57 ft     2.23 ft **
**03/20/00Z   25.6     2.2      5.7       92     2.74 ft     2.66 ft     2.31 ft **
**03/20/12Z   25.6     1.5      5.7      107    1.98 ft     1.92 ft     1.66 ft **
** ***********St. Augustine, FL*******           **
**  ****DATE      DEPTH  HS    PD       ****DIR   BREAKER HEIGHT**** (ANGLE OF INCIDENCE)**
**                    ****(FT)    (FT)    (S)     (360)    0 DEG       20 DEG      45 DEG**
**---------------------------------------------------------------------------------**
**03/17/00Z   17.0     1.9      8.3      107    2.69 ft     2.61 ft     2.26 ft **
**03/17/12Z   17.0     1.0      7.5      108    1.50 ft     1.45 ft     1.26 ft **
**03/18/00Z   17.0     1.2      7.5       92     1.76 ft     1.70 ft     1.48 ft **
**03/18/12Z   17.0     2.0      6.2       61     2.59 ft     2.51 ft     2.18 ft **
**03/19/00Z****   17.0     2.5      6.8      **** 69     3.22 ft     3.12 ft****     2.71 ft **
**03/19/12Z   17.0     2.2      5.1       87     2.65 ft     2.57 ft     2.23 ft **
**03/20/00Z   17.0     2.2      5.7       96     2.74 ft     2.66 ft     2.31 ft **
**03/20/12Z   17.0     1.6      5.7      107    2.09 ft     2.03 ft     1.76 ft **

## JAX Findings

- SWAN Compares well with Fernandina Beach Buoy. (Mean error < 0.5 meters)
- Provides good estimates for Breaking Wave Heights and High Surf Conditions
- Underestimates Waves in Northeast Flow Events (~10 m/s or more)
- SWAN Accuracy dependent on NCEP GFS Wind Inputs and NAH/WNA Wave Models

## Work in Progress

- Collaboration with MIA-SOO Pablo Santos
- Revision Control with Subversion
- Generate netCDF Template & .cdl files
- Merge Code from Eureka netCDF Grids
- Ingest SWAN-JAX in AWIPS D2D + GFE
- Resolve WNA vs. NAH wave input issue
- Use Custom JAX Wind Inputs from GFE
- Generate PNG Graphics & Loops for Web

## NWS Portland Oregon - Pacific North West SWAN Loophttp://www.wrh.noaa.gov/pqr/CSI/csi_model.html

## Eureka GFE Based SWAN

- NWS EKA SWAN Loop_[http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/eka/swan/SWAN_loop.htm](http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/eka/swan/SWAN_loop.htm)_

## SWAN References

- SWAN Source - _[http://fluidmechanics.tudelft.nl/swan/download/info.htm](http://fluidmechanics.tudelft.nl/swan/download/info.htm)_
- NRLSSC NOAA Coastal Storms Program - Eric Rogers _[http://www7320.nrlssc.navy.mil/CNW/](http://www7320.nrlssc.navy.mil/CNW/)__ - __[http://www7320.nrlssc.navy.mil/CSI/](http://www7320.nrlssc.navy.mil/CSI/)_
- NWS JAX SWAN Text - _[http://www.srh.noaa.gov/jax/SWANGFS.txt](http://www.srh.noaa.gov/jax/SWANGFS.txt)__ JAX_Marine Info - __[http://www.srh.noaa.gov/jax/marine.shtml](http://www.srh.noaa.gov/jax/marine.shtml)_
- NWS Eureka SWAN - _[http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/eka/swan/SWAN_loop.htm](http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/eka/swan/SWAN_loop.htm)_
- NWS Portland SWAN - _[http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/pqr/CSI/csi_model.html](http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/pqr/CSI/csi_model.html)_
- Coastal Storms Program NOAA - _[http://www.csc.noaa.gov/csp/](http://www.csc.noaa.gov/csp/)__  __[http://www.csc.noaa.gov/csp/florida/fl_weather.html](http://www.csc.noaa.gov/csp/florida/fl_weather.html)_
- Coastal Storms Program NCDDC - _[http://www.ncddc.noaa.gov/CSP/](http://www.ncddc.noaa.gov/CSP/)_

## 
Eric Rogers – Naval Engineer SWAN Developer
Chris McAloon – NOAA Coastal Storms Program
Mark Price – JAX UNF SWAN Developer
Andrew Shashy – NWS JAX Lead Forecaster – Marine Fpt
Troy Nicolini – Eureka WA, NWS-EKA WCM
Eve Devaliere – EKA SWAN Developer
Ron Beitel – NWS Portland SWAN Developer
Doug Saucedo – NWS Research Assistant Bar Forecasting
Patrick Welsh – UNF Engineering - Weather Lab Director
Pablo Santos – NWS Miami SOO
Bernard Meisner – NWS SRH SSD Chief
Peter Wolf – NWS JAX SOO
Al Sandrik – NWS JAX WCM
Art Wildman – NWS JAX ITO                                     -

**Eric Rogers – Naval Engineer SWAN Developer**
**Chris McAloon – NOAA Coastal Storms Program**
**Mark Price – JAX UNF SWAN Developer**
**Andrew Shashy – NWS JAX Lead Forecaster – Marine Fpt**
**Troy Nicolini – Eureka WA, NWS-EKA WCM**
**Eve Devaliere – EKA SWAN Developer**
**Ron Beitel – NWS Portland SWAN Developer**
**Doug Saucedo – NWS Research Assistant Bar Forecasting**
**Patrick Welsh – UNF Engineering - Weather Lab Director**
**Pablo Santos – NWS Miami SOO**
**Bernard Meisner – NWS SRH SSD Chief**
**Peter Wolf – NWS JAX SOO**
**Al Sandrik – NWS JAX WCM**
**Art Wildman – NWS JAX ITO                                     -**

**Acknowledgments**

## Questions or Comments?