![](media/image1.png){width="2.09375in"
height="1.1041666666666667in"}WELCOME TO OUR WORLD

For the past ten years we've been creating Intarsia Wood Sculpture. We
now have over one hundred different original patterns, ranging in size
from 12" to 5 feet in diameter. We specialize primarily in wildlife, but
are open to your suggestions. We market our finished wood sculpture at
art and craft shows on the west coast but have sold items to people on
five continents. At this time we've decided to offer some of our
patterns for sale and this is a description of how you can reproduce our
beautiful original pieces in your own wood shop. Our process is a little
different from most intarsia pattern producers and may take a few
adjustments on your part but will ultimately provide you with a
well-constructed project with what we believe is less work.

And now for our system of intarsia production:

**Step 1) Wood Selection and Requirements:**

A)  We use primarily western red cedar and redwood in thickness of
    (thin) ½", (standard) ¾", and (thick) 1 ½". These woods are used to
    create a 3-demensional effect, but a person could use any one or a
    combination of them as your previous experience, available tools and
    creativity allow.

B)  Colors of Wood: Each piece of every pattern we sell is labeled with
    the following recommendations:

**L=** white or very light sap wood of western red cedar, poplar, pine,
or yellow cedar.

**ML=** pinkish or medium light colored wood of western red cedar,
maple, alder, or oak.

**M=** medium colored wood of western red cedar, cherry, Tennessee red
cedar, or redwood.

**MD=** medium dark colored wood of western red cedar, myrtle wood,
mahogany, or makore.

**D=** very dark wood of western red cedar, walnut, rosewood, umbuya, or
ebony.

**X=** area cut out or left open no wood in this area of pattern.

**My helpful hint #1** Be creative. Different varieties of wood create
very different finished products. Sometimes changing one piece of wood
can totally change the outcome of a finished piece.

Once you've decided which to use, plane surface to desired thickness.
Again for all of our patterns you could use only one thickness of wood,
which could be rounded when sanding to add depth.

**Step 2)** Draw/Trace with carbon paper each piece of each pattern onto
the desired wood, keeping in mind the color of wood needed and the grain
direction arrows on the pattern pieces.

**My helpful hint #2** If you plan to make more than a few finished
pieces of any one pattern it is very helpful to glue the whole pattern
to cardboard or 1/8" plywood and cut each pattern piece out with a fine
blade scroll saw to create a "permanent" pattern for future use. This
process eliminates drawing errors from trying to follow a pattern line
and simplifies sanding and creates a tighter, more professional looking
project.

**Step 3)** Cut out all pieces with (my preference) a band saw with 1/8"
or ¼" blade. A scroll saw may also be used. It will take longer, but may
be more accurate depending on your abilities.

**Step 4)** Assemble pieces on a piece of ¼" plywood (to be used later
as a background).

**My helpful hint #3** Pen mark areas to be sanded. Use a ballpoint pen
or a pencil and decide and mark all areas of the cut pieces that need
the edges sanded or trimmed to produce a tighter fit between pieces.
This saves a lot of time standing by a sander and touching up areas.

**Step 5)** Sand edges of all pieces to fit closely along adjoining
(shared) lines.

**Step 6)** Sand surface areas of all pieces to the desired thickness
keeping in mind the overall depth of the piece. This step takes the most
creativity on your part. Just look at the pattern and do what looks
right to you. Remember if you mess up, and we all have, you can always
make a new piece.

**My helpful hint #4** Only sand as fine as needed. This may surprise
you but I only use 100 grit sandpaper for my final finish sanding.
That's because that's all it takes to remove all sanding marks that will
show with finish. Many people over sand their work!

**Step 7)** Slightly round all edges to create a more 3-demensional
look.

**Step 8)** Lay sanded pieces on the backing you are using. I suggest ¼"
plywood. I prefer birch. Trace around your piece and cut out the
background.

**Step 9)** Hand-sand each piece with 100 -- 150 grit sandpaper to
remove any rough edges.

**Step 10)** Place backing on a covered flat surface that won't be
ruined with glue. Glue each of the sanded project pieces onto the
backing. Use carpenter's wood glue and after it has set awhile (10
minutes)....

**Helpful hint \# 5** Use weight to press the project down on the
plywood. I like encyclopedias for this step!

**Step 11)** After drying overnight, sand around the edges (or cut if
needed with scroll saw) to remove any unwanted material on the completed
project.

**Helpful hint #6** If you have an air compressor use it for "dusting"
the project during sanding and finish sanding.

**Step 12)** In a ventilated or open area, finish your project with a
spray finish. I recommend "Deft" semi-gloss or gloss. Spray 4-8 coats
front and back, then sand the front side only with 150 grit sandpaper,
and apply 4-8 additional coats of finish.

**Step 13)** Place saw tooth hanger on back in center, sign it, and wait
for the applause.

For more patterns, or finished product information visit our website at
[www.intarsia.org](http://www.intarsia.org/) or email us at
<info@intarsia.org> or call us at (541) 683-2819. Hope you enjoy the
projects!

Thanks,

Scott & Sandy Gielish

32960 Dillard Rd.

Eugene OR 97405