Questions and Answers

Rip Current Media Event

May 24, 2004

> Pages

NOAA, National Weather Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-8

NOAA, Sea Grant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9-11

Unites States Lifesaving Association . . . . . . . . . . . 12-16

Meteorologist, Rip Current Questions and Answers, Rev 3

May 13, 2004

**How do rip current fatalities rank with respect to other weather-and
ocean-related fatalities?**

Over the past 10 years (1994-2003) the average, annual number of
fatalities for a number of hazards is as follows:

Heat 237

**Rip currents 100**

Flood 84

Tornado 58

Lightning 53

Hurricane 18

Shark 0.6

Sources:

-Heat, Flood, Tornado, Lightning, Hurricane statistics from NWS

-Rip current statistic is from the USLA. See the related USLA Q and A.

-Shark statistic is from Florida State University.

**What is the mission of the National Weather Service?**

-The NWS is part of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration
(NOAA). The NWS provides weather, hydrologic, and climate forecasts and
warnings for the US, its territories, adjacent waters, and ocean areas
for the protection of life and property and the enhancement of the
national economy. NWS data and products form a national information
database and infrastructure which can be used by other governmental
agencies, the private sector, and the global community.

**What Marine and Coastal Forecast Services are provided by the NWS?**

-The NWS issues marine warnings and forecasts for the protection of life
and property, to promote economic benefits, and to enhance the quality
of life for coastal residents and governmental, commercial, and maritime
operations.

**What is the Weather Service=s history of providing rip current
information?**

-In the early 1990s forecasters in Florida NWS offices identified
correlations in high frequency rip current rescues/fatalities with
certain oceanic and atmospheric conditions. The Miami Weather Forecast
Office (WFO) led the first NWS efforts at providing the public with rip
current information on a daily basis.

**What is the ASurf Zone@?**

-The Surf Zone is the area between the high tide level on the beach to
the seaward side of the breaking waves?

**What is the NWS Surf Zone Forecast?**

-The Surf Zone Forecast provides valuable and lifesaving information on
the hazards of the surf zone to the greater beachfront community, to
include the general public and the providers of beachfront safety
services, such as lifeguards.

**What information is typically provided in the Surf Zone Forecast?**

-The SRF typically describes the following parameters and hazards: Sky
condition, precipitation, visibility, air temperature, wind speed and
direction, wave height, surf temperature, tide information, rip
currents, lightning, severe thunderstorms, and the ultraviolet index.

**When is the Surf Zone Forecast produced?**

-The SRF is generally issued at least once a day from Memorial through
Labor Day by WFOs whose forecast area of responsibility includes surf
beaches. Depending on the WFO and the region, the SRF may produced on a
year-round basis, such as in southern Florida.

**How can a person obtain this Surf Zone Forecast?**

-The Surf Zone Forecast product is available through the NWS Family of
Services (FOS), NOAA Weather Wire Service, the Emergency Manager=s
Information Network. It is also available over NOAA WeatherRadio. The
SRF product began in Summer 2003.

-We recommend you take a look at our NOAA Rip Current web page, at
[www.ripcurrents.noaa.gov]{.underline}

This page lists the coastal NWS Forecast Offices providing rip current
forecasts. It provides links to the latest research in the area of rip
currents. The page also provides a link to download the NOAA-USLA Rip
Current Brochure.

**My local Weather Forecast Office does not produce a Surf Zone
Forecast. Why not?**

Many NWS Forecast Offices issue a Surf Zone Forecast during the
traditional summer season from Memorial through Labor Day. On the
Atlantic Coast the forecast is produced from New Jersey and all points
south. Many offices issue the forecast along the Gulf of Mexico. Our Los
Angeles and San Diego offices issue the forecast for their surf beaches.

**What is the Rip Current Outlook?**

-A **NWS Rip Current Standardization Team** of marine forecasters from
across the nation recognized a need to nationally standardize rip
current information provided by the NWS to our customers and partners.
This information is provided in our Rip Current Outlook.

-Although rip currents can occur at any time along any location along
our nation\'s beaches they can become extremely dangerous under the
right conditions. As a result, one of the most important rip current
forecasting goals is to identify those days when rip currents are
expected to become strong and pose a threat to anyone who enters the
water.

**-**The **Rip Current Outlook** portion of the SRF provides our
customers and partners with standardized terminology for describing the
rip current hazard. With our increasingly mobile society, it=s important
that the words used to describe the rip current hazard in North Carolina
be the same as the words used to describe the rip current hazard at a
surf beach in California.

Failure to use consistent terminology leads to confusion for our surf
zone partners and customers.

**What are the three tiers of the Rip Current Outlook?**

**Low, Moderate, and High**

-A ALow Risk@ means wind and/or wave conditions are not expected to
support the development of rip currents. However, rip currents can
sometimes occur, especially in the vicinity of groins, jetties, and
piers. Know how to swim and heed the advice of the beach
patrol/lifeguards.

-A AModerate Risk@ means wind and/or wave conditions support stronger or
more frequent rip currents. Only experienced surf swimmers should enter
the water.

-A AHigh Risk@ means wind and/or wave conditions support dangerous rip
currents. Rip Currents are life-threatening to anyone entering the surf.

**What data/inputs do forecasters integrate in developing this Rip
Current Outlook?**

-Specifically, persistent onshore wind (near normal wind waves), swells,
and reports from lifeguards are three of the main Asignals@ that NWS
forecasters identify when preparing a Rip Current Outlook.

‑-NOAA forecasters utilize the latest in wave modeling ‑ the NOAA
WaveWatch III model and other high resolution regional wave models aid
forecasters in determining when wave conditions support rip current
development. These models are also show when large swells approach from
distant tropical cyclones.

‑-Forecasters rely on the network of realtime NOAA Weather Buoys
positioned along our nation=s coastal and offshore waters. The buoys are
maintained by the National Data Buoy Center.

B-Forecasters now have access to numerical guidance products for 120
buoy and CMAN sites, based on the Global Forecast System model, to
better understand sea states.

‑-In addition, collaborative efforts between NWS offices and the local
lifeguards complete the forecast process. Lifeguards and other beach
partners play a critical role in the success of the program by providing
real time feedback for inclusion in the rip current outlook. The reports
from trained observers provide forecast verification, which will lead to
improved forecasts in the future.

**What are the data needs of the National Weather Service for improving
Surf Zone Forecasts and Rip Current Outlooks in the future?**

National Weather Service forecasters require additional nearshore and
offshore buoys, with the addition of wave direction sensors to buoys.
Additionally, long-range Weather Service planning includes the need for
forecasters to have ready-access to high-resolution, nearshore wave
models. These models will help improve Surf Zone Forecasts and Coastal
Waters Forecasts.

**Does the NWS issue Rip Current Advisories or Rip Current Warnings?**

-The NWS **[does not issue, and will not issue,]{.underline}** Rip
Current Advisories or Warnings. That action within a given jurisdiction
is the responsibility of the local beach patrol, local lifeguards, or
local law enforcement officials.

**Is there a connection between the Rip Current Outlook and the colored
flags I see on the beaches?**

-The Rip Current Outlook is a forecast of expected rip current
conditions.

-The colored flags posted on surf beaches are the purview of the local
beach patrol, lifeguards, or local law enforcement officials. These
colored flags refer to one of any number of surf zone hazards. The
colored flags reflect actual, current surf zone hazards.

**Give me some examples of successful partnering among NWS-Sea
Grant-USLA around the nation.**

-The NWS-Sea Grant-USLA (NOAA-USLA) Rip Current Partnership was launched
in 2003 to leverage the expertise and resources of our respective
organizations to increase public understanding and awareness of rip
currents, an often-understood phenomenon.

BOur Partnership is working with coastal constituencies and concerned
individuals around the nation in an effort to heighten public awareness
on the hazards of rip currents.

-In Florida\....

In Florida the University of Florida has a long history of providing
technical information on nearshore processes with Weather Forecast
Offices, particularly on Florida=s east coast to Melbourne and Miami.

-In North Carolina\....

North Carolina State University has worked extensively with WFO
Wilmington for rip current education and awareness. WFO Wilmington has
successfully partnered with lifeguards along the North Carolina coast
for several years.

-In Delaware and New Jersey\....

The University of Delaware worked with WFO Mount Holly and USLA
lifeguards to develop a daily Oceanographic Data and Observation
program. Lifeguards exchanged rip current and other surf zone
information with NWS forecasters on a daily basis, leading to a higher
quality forecast product. Forecasters also use surf zone data available
through a Rutgers University network of coastal observing sites.

-In Texas\...

The NMS Corpus Christi Office is working with Texas Sea Grant to study
drowning events for the southern portion of the Texas coast, from Port
O=Connor to the border. The research has been funded in part by Texas
Sea Grant. The analysis of the data will help to identify those local
factors and surf conditions associated with a high risk of rip currents.

**What role does the media play with this rip current education
program?**

**-**The media is an important partner in the dissemination of our Rip
Current Outlooks. We=re hoping more coastal television and radio
stations will be reporting the Rip Current Outlook in their weather
broadcasts each day. The media will play a valuable role in increasing
the public=s rip current awareness, just as they have in NWS safety
campaign for other weather hazards, such as lightning.

**What are the rip current outreach efforts underway by local NWS
Forecast Offices?**

-The Warning Coordination Meteorologist (WCM) at each office is a
primary link between the WFO and the community.

-Many WCMs will be dialoging with local lifeguards, Chambers of
Commerce, local governments, and community groups to establish those
partnerships critical to a successful rip current education program,
which must include local scientists from Sea Grant universities, rip
current outlooks from the NWS, and the protection and warnings provided
by lifeguards to beachgoers.

**Why issue an outlook for such a complicated phenomenon as rip currents
when you get it wrong so often on simple forecasts like the high
temperature for tomorrow?**

Science has improved sufficiently to demonstrate some skill in
identifying the days we may expect strong rip currents. Our Rip Current
Outlooks, in conjunction with surveillance from the local lifeguards and
beach patrols, should help save lives.

**Why have I seen days when there was a Amoderate@ rip current risk and
the ocean looked almost flat?**

-Long period swells sometimes result in minimal wave action where the
ocean surface is hardly perturbed, yet there is a greater than normal
transport of wave energy into the surf zone which may result in an
elevated rip current risk.

**Why don=t you issue outlooks during the winter because strong rip
currents certainly exist?**

-Rip Current Outlooks are issued during the Aswimming season@ which is
defined by the local National Weather Service Office. In the
mid/northern latitudes the waters are simply too cold for any swimmers
during the winter.

**When I go out surfing in strong onshore wind events, you mention that
there is a high rip current risk. Why can=t I find these rip currents so
they can help pull me through the choppy surf?**

-Good question. Sometimes the amount of water crashing into the surf
zone can overwhelm many of the seaward flowing currents in the near
shore ocean circulation. Very strong rip currents can still occur in
these conditions, but they might be more widely spaced along the coast
and hence more difficult to locate.

**If it is true that rip currents occur everyday to some degree on
beaches, then shouldn=t there be an elevated rip current risk at all
times?**

-Swimming in the ocean is not the same as swimming in a swimming pool.
We are providing people with guidance to help them make educated
decisions. We encourage all persons to consult with on-duty lifeguards
about all surf zone hazards for the day.

**Why do some people use terms like runouts and rip tides when you are
calling them rip currents?**

-These terms were likely used for many years in local areas. The
National Weather Service, Sea Grant, and the USLA are working together
to use consistent terminology to provide a clear rip current safety
message to the public.

NOAA Sea Grant Questions & Answers

Rip Currents Press Event

May 24, 2004

**What is a rip current?**

Rip currents are channelized currents of water flowing away from shore
at surf beaches. They typically extend from near the shoreline, through
the surf zone and past the line of breaking waves. (The surf zone is the
area between the high tide level on the beach to the seaward side of
breaking waves.)

**Do rip currents pull people underwater?**

No. A rip current is a horizontal flow of water moving in the offshore
direction. Rip currents do not pull people under the water---they carry
people away from the shore.

**Is a rip current the same as an undertow?**

-No! The rip current is typically the strongest about a foot off of the
bottom, which can cause you to be knocked over. This could make it feel
like something Aunder@ the water was pulling you.

**What happens to people caught in a rip current?**

People get in trouble when they are moved so far offshore that they are
unable to get back to the beach. This may be due to any combination of
fear, panic, exhaustion, or lack of swimming skills.

**How do rip currents form?**

Rip currents are formed when waves break near the shoreline, piling up
water between the breaking waves and the beach. One of the ways that
this water returns to sea is to form a rip current, a narrow jet of
water moving swiftly offshore, roughly perpendicular to the shoreline.

**Where should I look for rip currents?**

Rip currents can be found on many surf beaches every day. Rip currents
most typically form at low spots or breaks in sandbars, and also near
structures such as groins, jetties and piers. Rip currents can occur at
any beach with breaking waves, including the Great Lakes.

**How big are rip currents?**

Rip currents can be as narrow as 10 or 20 feet in width but some can be
as much as ten times wider. The length of the rip current also varies.
Rip currents begin to slow down as they move offshore, beyond the
breaking waves, but sometimes extend for hundreds of feet beyond the
surf zone.

**How fast are rip currents?**

Rip current speeds can vary. Sometimes they are too slow to be
considered dangerous. However, under certain wave, tide and beach shape
conditions the speeds can quickly become dangerous. Rip currents have
been measured to exceed 5 mph, slower than you can run but faster than
you or even an Olympic swimmer can swim. In some cases they have been
measured as fast as 8 feet per second. This is faster than the speed at
which an Olympic swimmer can swim a 50-meter sprint.

\- Under most tide and sea conditions rip currents are relatively slow.
However, under certain wave, tide, and beach profile conditions the
speeds can quickly increase to become dangerous to anyone entering the
surf. The strength and speed of a rip current will likely increase as
wave height and wave period increase.

**How can I identify a rip current?**

Signs that a rip current is present are very subtle and difficult for
the average beachgoer to identify. Look for differences in the water
color, water motion, incoming wave shape or breaking point compared to
adjacent conditions. Look for any of these clues:

\- a channel of churning, choppy water

\- an area having a notable difference in water color

\- a line of foam, seaweed, or debris moving steadily seaward

\- a break in the incoming wave pattern

\- One, all or none the clues may be visible.

**Are all rip currents dangerous?**

Rip currents are present on many beaches every day of the year, but they
are usually too slow to be dangerous to beachgoers. However, under
certain wave, tide and beach shape conditions they can increase to
dangerous speeds.

**What is being done to study the science of rip currents?**

Rip currents have long been an interest to scientists studying waves and
beaches, but only in recent years have Sea Grant and National Weather
Service research searched for ways to identify the wave and sea
conditions that create hazardous rip current velocities and to correlate
the conditions with actual rescue data from local lifeguards. What we
have learned to date is being used to identify those days when the
potential for dangerous rip currents is higher, the Rip Current Outlook
for your beach. Researchers around the country are actively searching
for better prediction and warning methods.

**What is Sea Grant and how is it unique?**

Sea Grant is a nationwide network of 30 university-based programs
supporting applied research, education and outreach programs to promote
better understanding, conservation, and use of our coastal resources.

By coordinating university scientists with outreach specialists,
decision makers, and stakeholders, Sea Grant synthesizes science-based
information and gets it to those who need it. An example of this is the
**rip-current technical workshop** that NOAA Sea Grant and the National
Weather Service convened in Florida last month. The workshop was held to
enhance communication and information sharing among National Weather
Service forecasters, coastal engineering scientists, and Sea Grant
outreach personnel. Each organization presented its latest rip-current
research, forecasting methodologies, and hands-on data applications. The
workshop also helped each organization identify data gaps, partnership
opportunities and future research needs to enhance and improve
rip-current prediction and forecasting.

**How does Sea Grant outreach work?**

The national network of Sea Grant Colleges and institutional programs is
committed to the transfer of research results not only to government
agencies, but also to coastal communities and the public. Over the past
25 years, many Sea Grant programs have worked hard to increase public
awareness of rip currents through the use of beach and boardwalk signs,
brochures, videos, seminars, and Web sites. These outreach efforts are
designed to help local residents and visitors familiarize themselves
with rip currents, avoid these dangerous coastal hazards, and understand
how to swim out of a rip current.

**What can you tell me about Sea Grant's research nationwide?**

Over the past 20 years, Sea Grant has funded rip-current research at
many of the nation's premier universities. Coastal engineers and
scientists have been working to increase our understanding of rip
currents through a variety of techniques including field experiments in
the surf zone, laboratory experiments in wave tanks, and mathematical
and computer modeling. This research has ranged from GPS drifter studies
in California's surf zone, to nearshore circulation analyses in the
Great Lakes; from wave basin and computer modeling of rip-current
behavior in Delaware, to detailed video analyses and placement of
instruments in the surf zone for rip current measurements in North
Carolina. This research has not been limited solely to investigating the
movement of water near the shoreline. For example, Florida Sea Grant is
funding research that examines how rip-current rescue data correlate to
certain wave conditions and characteristics.

**United States Lifesaving Association, Rip Current Questions and
Answers, Rev 3**

**May 3, 2004**

**What is the mission of the United States Lifesaving Association?**

-USLA's mission is to prevent drowning and other injuries in the aquatic
environment through public education and the promotion of high standards
in aquatic rescue.

**Why is USLA partnering with NOAA?**

-We're partnering with NOAA because together we can greatly increase the
reach of our drowning prevention message.

**How serious of a problem do rip currents pose?**

-Each year America's surf lifeguards rescue over 60,000 people from
drowning.

-Of these, over 80% are rescues of people caught in rip currents.

-In the absence of timely rescue, we believe that over 80% of the
drowning fatalities at surf beaches are also caused by rip currents.

-We estimate that well over 100 fatalities a year are caused by rip
currents.

**What are some services of USLA?**

-The National Certification Program promulgates minimum recommended
standards for lifeguard agencies and certifies those which demonstrate
compliance.

-Public education efforts through USLA and affiliated agencies reach an
audience of over 240,000 per year.

-USLA's website ([www.usla.org](http://www.usla.org/)) provides public
education and exchange of information among lifesavers worldwide.

-USLA sponsored competitions on the national and international level
promote high levels of fitness and skill among lifesavers
([www.uslanationals.org](http://www.uslanationals.org/)).

-USLA gathers and disseminates statistics on lifeguard rescues, beach
attendance, and related issues annually.

-USLA is actively involved in encouraging the development of lifeguard
services in areas lacking them, especially where drownings have
occurred.

-USLA publishes Open Water Lifesaving -- The United States Lifesaving
Association Manual for the training of open water rescuers.

**What is USLA's history of providing rip current information?**

-Rip currents were first identified by lifeguards and information on the
phenomenon was first published in the 1930's.

-USLA's website provides rip current information and USLA has published
posters and brochures on rip currents for many years.

-USLA affiliated agencies provide on-site public education, much of it
based on USLA educational materials. There were over 2.9 million
preventive actions provided by lifeguards and reported to USLA in 2003.

**Why is the hazard presented by rip currents so poorly recognized?**

-Rip current deaths occur one or two at a time and usually attract
little attention.

-They may only be a footnote in media reporting.

-On estimate suggests that only about 50% of drowning deaths are
reported by the media.

-Unlike the drama of a hurricane or tornado, rip currents exist every
day at surf beaches throughout the U.S.

**What can this collaboration on public awareness hope to accomplish?**

-Rip current fatalities are mostly preventable if people are educated
about the phenomenon. We hope to significantly reduce death and injury
in the surf environment by making beach users and beach overseers aware
of steps they can take to avoid accidental death and injury due to rip
currents.

**How can people avoid rip current problems?**

-Learn to swim

-If you'll be in surf, learn to swim in surf. It's not the same as a
pool or lake.

-Never swim alone.

-Swim near a lifeguard.

-Look for posted signs and warning flags, which may indicate higher than
usual hazards.

-Check with lifeguards before swimming.

-Obey all instructions provided by lifeguards.

-Be cautious. Always assume rip currents are present even if you don't
see them.

-If in doubt, don't go out!

**How do lifeguards make a difference"?**

-Lifeguards are trained to: recognize rip currents, inform the public
about rip currents, and rescue people caught in rip currents.

-The chance of drowning at a beach protected by lifeguards affiliated
with USLA is 1 in 18 million.

**What can people do if caught in a rip current?**

-Try to remain calm to conserve energy.

-Don't fight the current.

-Think of it like a treadmill you can't turn off. You want to step to
the side of it.

-Swim across the current in a direction following the shoreline.

-When out of the current, swim and angle away from the current and
towards shore.

-If you can't escape this way, try to float or calmly tread water. Rip
current strength eventually subsides offshore. When it does, swim
towards shore.

-If at any time you feel you will be unable to reach shore, draw
attention to yourself: face the shore, wave your arms, and yell for
help.

**How can people assist others who are caught in a rip current?**

-If you see someone in trouble, get help from a lifeguard.

-If no lifeguard is available, have someone call 9-1-1.

-Throw the rip current victim something that floats -- a lifejacket, a
cooler, a ball.

-Yell instructions on how to escape.

-Many have drowned trying to help others. Don't become a victim while
trying to help someone else!

**Where are the major trouble spots for rip currents in the US?**

In California\....

-The prevalence and severity of rip currents is apparently greatest in
California, probably due to regular and strong surf conditions. However,
with the notable exception of California State Parks, the hazard is
fairly well managed by a network of lifeguard agencies that make a very
large number of rescues each year (over 40,000 in 2003, of which over
80% are due to rip currents).

-Beaches without lifeguards: In California, for example, there were 31
drownings reported at unguarded surf beaches in 2003 and 4 at guarded
surf beaches. Considering that attendance is typically far higher at
guarded beaches (lifeguards are typically placed where the most people
swim), the safety record is significant. For Florida in 2003, the number
of drownings reported at unguarded versus guarded beaches was 17:1.

-California State Parks: California State Parks reported 71% of all
drownings reported by California lifeguard agencies from Santa Cruz
south in 2003. This was a total of 25, most of which were probably rip
current related. Reason: Strong rips and lack of lifeguards.

In Florida\....

-In Pensacola, where there has been a high incidence of rip current
deaths over the past several years, the overseers of the beaches
emphasize that no drownings have occurred where lifeguards are staffed.

-Florida, in general, has been a trouble-spot. There are extensive areas
of the coastline with no lifeguards and beach users are often poor or
nonswimmers unfamiliar with the hazard. Where lifeguard protection is
provided, it typically ends at 5 p.m.

-The Florida Panhandle has been a serious trouble-spot over the past ten
years or so as tourism has increased, but provision of lifeguards
services has not increased in parallel. Some examples:

\- Pensacola: Between April 2000 and the present, 21 people have died by
drowning (in unguarded areas), per the Santa Rosa Island Authority\'s
public safety manager.

\- Panama City Beach to Pensacola: 23 people drowned in rip currents in
the summer of 2003 per the Atlanta Constitution.

\- Panama City Beach: 10 died by drowning in 1994 and the community
continues to decline to provide lifeguard protection.

\- Walton County: No lifeguards are provided, though several of the 2003
drowning deaths occurred place there.

**Where can people learn more about USLA and water safety?**

The United States Lifesaving Association maintains a website at
www.usla.org with tips on beach safety, including rip currents. Be sure
to visit the site when you have questions.

**How do rip currents result in the drowning of swimmers?**

Drowning deaths occur when people pulled offshore are unable to keep
themselves afloat and swim to shore. This may be due to any combination
of fear, panic, exhaustion, or lack of swimming skills. Rip currents are
a major hazard to all beachgoers. They can sweep even the strongest
swimmer out to sea. Rip currents are particularly dangerous for weak and
non-swimmers.

**How did USLA arrive at the number of 100 when they state "The United
States Lifesaving Association estimates the annual number of rip current
deaths in the US exceeds 100."**

a.  It is difficult to provide and exact number since:

> \--the Centers for Disease Control does not maintain a national
> reporting system/national database for drownings along surf beaches
>
> \--Most of the nation's coastline is outside the jurisdiction of surf
> lifeguard agencies.
>
> b\. The USLA estimates that over 80 percent of surf beach drowning
> deaths (and surf beach rescues) are caused by rip currents. Applying
> this 80 percent estimate results in an estimated average of 64 rip
> current deaths within the jurisdictions of USLA surf lifeguard
> agencies. Since most of the nation's coastline is outside the
> jurisdiction of surf lifeguard agencies, it seems reasonable to
> postulate that the actual number of drownings caused by rip currents
> nationally is at least double the 64 number or higher. For the
> purposes of our education campaign we state the number of rip current
> deaths nationally exceeds 100 per year.