The Chief's Gorilla Guide
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For Looking Good In

Uniform

By

Chief Master Sergeant

Robert D. Chiafos

78^th^ Cadet Squadron (East Iowa)

CIVIL AIR PATROL

United States Air Force Auxiliary

2^nd^ Edition (Revised) August 2006

> **The Commander's Responsibility**

Each commander needs to acknowledge and accept responsibility for the
appearance of all individuals under their command. Every military unit
has a uniform culture. Left undirected, and on their own, members of the
unit will collectively and unconsciously set a standard for wearing the
uniform. Once established, that standard will perpetuate itself. As new
members come in they will observe the standard, and dress down or up to
match it. In any unit where uniforms are not inspected regularly, or
where the leadership fails to immediately confront individual violators;
the standard will plummet like water seeking its lowest level. This is a
*serious* breach of military discipline and the *worst* kind of
leadership! Sadly, in some units, the senior members are the greatest
offenders.

No matter how bad the current standard is in your unit, it can be turned
around. First, the commander must meet standards, if you don't - correct
it! You cannot conduct an inspection, or correct infractions, when the
offenders look better than you do. Next, *demand* compliance from your
Cadet Programs Officer, and all cadet officers and NCOs. When
infractions are observed, use the chain of command to immediately
confront and correct violations. When repeated correction fails, revoke
the privilege of wearing the Air Force Uniform. Openly reprimand
offenders and reward those who exceed the standards.

Uniform inspections must be the first order of business at any CAP
meeting, gathering, or other event. Start with your regular unit
meetings, then progress out to include all training events, CAC
meetings, SARXs, etc. Use the inspection form at the end of this guide
so that you are consistent and everybody knows the rules. This is not a
matter for timidity - BE RUTHLESS! This is one subject which isn't open
to debate, excuses, compromise, or favoritism, and requires the
aggressive use of military authority. You don't have to be nasty, calm
firm words are all that is required. In every inspection select *one*
cadet, with the best uniform, to praise as an example to the formation.

You will be amazed at how quickly you can turn a unit around. The payoff
is more than good-looking uniforms. In a very short time you will have
established a new culture, one with soaring morale and pride. You'll
know when this happens -- cadets will begin correcting each other - you
won't have to.

Commanders Pull This Page Before Distribution

# Appearances Are Everything

Your appearance is a visible biography; you are a walking billboard,
advertising lots of information about yourself. Based on your
appearance, any thinking person can rightly deduct very important
indicators of your character; what you think of yourself, what you
believe in, your trustworthiness, your intelligence and education, and
even what kind of beer you drink. Tattoos, body piercing, hairstyles,
the clothes you wear, and how they are worn, all communicate in no
uncertain terms what kind of person you are. Cops have honed this kind
of observation into a high art. Simply by observation of appearance,
they can tell what kind of drugs someone uses, where they probably live,
the kind of work they do, what gang they belong to, if they have served
time in prison, whether or not someone is carrying a concealed weapon,
and what kind of crimes they are likely to commit. Try it, you'll be
amazed at what you can deduce from another person's appearance!

Salesmen wear 'power ties'; successful ladies have short hairstyles,
watches and jewelry communicate status and authority. You can read a
soldier's entire history by the ribbons he wears; where he's been, what
he's done, and displays of personal courage. Have you ever gone to an
event underdressed? Remember that powerful feeling of wanting to hide
somewhere? As a society we dress far more casually than our parents and
grand parents did. So the power of dress and its capacity to influence
other people doesn't get the attention it once did; except for Mom's
admonition to wear clean underwear in case you have to go to the
hospital. But the inherent nature of people to unconsciously respond to
someone's dress is a powerful human instinct. Once you understand this,
you can manipulate your dress to gain an advantage in any social
situation. When you look good you know it, it 'feels' good, and your
self-confidence soars. So, the next time someone tells you, "You can't
judge a book by its cover", remember people are not books, but you sure
can read them like one -- and they can read you too!

# 

# Introduction

Gorilla Guides are common in the Air Force. They are not part of any
official regulation or instruction. They are written to integrate
regulations, practices, and policies into a sort of 'how to' handbook to
get specific things done. They cover what manuals and instructions
don't. I believe a gorilla guide on uniforms for Civil Air Patrol is
long overdue. What I intend to do here, is to give you some insight into
the Air Force uniform and how best to prepare and wear it, so you can
partake of the pride, honor, and respect it bestows on those who wear it
well.

During my career in the Air Force I paid close attention to the customs
of wearing the uniform, and watched those customs change over the years.
I sought out every trick and ploy to prepare and wear the uniform, so
when I wore it, it was worn well. And, I believe, that had a great
influence on rapid promotions and career opportunities.

Respect is the first step in wearing the uniform; it is your visible
offering to the past, to those who served before you. When you wear it
you become part of its tradition, visible proof, that time honored
customs still live on. Remember, every time you put that uniform on you
no longer represent yourself; you *become* the Civil Air Patrol, and the
United States Air Force. And every one who sees you will judge you, CAP,
and the Air Force based on your appearance.

During my time in the Air Force I traveled to many air bases. Most of
those hosted a Civil Air Patrol Squadron. On more than one occasion, to
my chagrin (being a former cadet), I overheard bitter comments from
airmen about how CAP was wearing *their* uniform, or as one airman said
to me, "degrading it".

**To be fair, most CAP members never served a tour in a uniform. So,
they don't understand there is a vast gulf separating the uniform from
civilian clothes. Nor do they comprehend the depth of pride airmen have
for it, or the deep offense taken when they see it worn improperly. In
fact, the Air Force takes the uniform so serious that violations can be
punished as a *criminal offense*, under Articles 15 and 19, of the
Uniform Code of Military Justice. The offender is subject to extra duty,
base restrictions, fines, reduction in rank, forfeiture of pay, and even
confinement!**

Not all CAP members discredit the uniform, some are sharp as tacks, but
there are enough marginal people out there to give us all concern --
improper uniform wear does incalculable damage to Civil Air Patrol's
public image, reputation, and esteem; and that hurts each and every one
of us. When I joined CAP and attended the Squadron Leadership Course
(SLS), it was shocking how little time was spent on wear of the uniform,
and how casually it was presented -- "just read 39-1," they said.

This casual attitude is a failure to understand the uniform's true
purpose and function; which is more than putting everybody in color
coordinated outfits. The uniform is *the* keystone in the foundation of
all military tradition, discipline, morale, and unit cohesion. General
George Patton took command of II Corps in North Africa right after the
German's had kicked the snot out of it at Kasserine Pass. He lamented to
his orderly about the sorry state of his soldier's uniforms: "If they
don't look like soldiers, and don't act like soldiers, how can I get
them to fight like soldiers?" Patton was merciless; he levied huge
fines, busted, and even jailed offenders, and he did so *on the spot*!
Within days no one dared to be caught out of uniform. II Corps was never
beaten in battle again.

Throwing a manual at someone who has no clue about how to prepare or
wear the uniform is the short cut to guaranteed substandard appearance.
Reading a book about surgery doesn't make you a surgeon, and reading the
uniform manual is even less effective. The uniform manual, by itself, is
*not* the first, last, or only word, on wearing the uniform. 39-1 is a
*minimum standard,* and in the Air Force, a minimum standard is *never*
acceptable, and that includes its own Instruction on uniforms.

39-1 exists in a vacuum and requires context. Those missing contexts are
the customs and traditions for preparing and wearing the Air Force
uniform. These aren't written down, they are passed from airman to
airman, beginning in basic training. And over time, those customs
change. Air Force Instruction (AFI) 36-2903, does not require spit
shined shoes and boots, but all airmen do it. The AFI says nothing about
'high and tight' haircuts, but everyone gets them. The AFI does not
require heavy starched shirts or BDUs, but every base laundry has racks
stuffed with them. The same can be said for 39-1. What this guide will
present are the unwritten uniform customs and traditions - the ones that
truly matter, and make all the difference.

## Command Presence

So, what's the big deal about the uniform --?

> THE EFFECT IT HAS ON OTHERS!

Sloppy uniforms are a cancer: they spread (see George Patton above).
Tending to a uniform takes forethought, attention to detail, and a
peculiar kind of pickiness. When those who improperly wear the uniform
are not corrected the incentive of those who do stops. If there is no
uniform discipline, there is no military discipline. Eventually, this
will gut a unit's morale: and in CAP I believe that means members and
potential members. I'll bet my Air Force pension that a unit with sloppy
uniforms is sloppy at everything else (again, see George Patton above).
If you don't look professional, you're not. Appearances *are*
everything; they reinforce an expectation, or dishonor it - there is no
middle ground. And a military uniform comes with some real heavy
expectations.

Those set of expectations are called command presence. If you look
professional, you are! And you immediately gain a psychological
advantage over other people - which is why cops wear uniforms. Worn
properly, the uniform visibly expresses your pride, confidence, and
leadership.

Civilians can be awed by it. They may step out of your way, offer you a
seat, hold open doors, or simply stare at you. They admire your
exceptional appearance; you have set yourself apart from them as
something special, something important, and someone to be reckoned
with - even though they don't quite understand why. While traveling in
uniform strangers approached me in airports, cafes, and hotel lobbies,
to comment on how "awesome" or "impressive" my uniform was. That is the
power of command presence. But if you're not sharp, people look right
through you, you don't exist, you failed their expectations. That is the
best you can expect, more likely, you will be seen as a want-a-be who
can't quite get your act together.

## Assess Yourself

The single most important element of the uniform is the person in it.
And the single most important element in that person is attitude. If you
don't care your uniform flashes that message like a neon sign on a cheap
skid-row hotel. Take a moment and think about the uniform. What makes it
different from other clothes I wear? Why must I show respect to a
uniform? Do I want to be respected while wearing it? If the answer to
the last question is not yes, then you really don't belong in CAP and
should move on to something else.

But I suspect most of you do care, or you wouldn't bother to read this.
Since your uniform always reflects on you, take a look. Put it on. Stand
in front of a full-length mirror.

THIS IS EXACTLY HOW OTHER PEOPLE SEE YOU!

While your standing in front of the mirror, take the uniform inspection
sheet provided at the end of this guide and rate yourself. Circle each
item description that best reflects your grooming and uniform. A single
mark in the Out of Uniform column and you fail the inspection. (You can
make up numeric scores for each inspection Item and compare yourself to
others in an objective manner.) Did you fail? Was your numerical score
lower than you expected? If you follow the tips and advice in this guide
you'll have the sharpest uniform in your squadron.

## Assess your Uniform

###  

**1.** **Is It Authorized?**

All clothing authorized by the Air Force has a certification label sewn
onto the garment. If yours doesn't -- it isn't authorized. Avoid buying
uniform items at a military surplus store. They are generally stocked
with outdated items no longer authorized for wear because of changes in
color, fabric, or style. Even if the garment is in the current
inventory, it is probably used and its remaining serviceable life is not
worth the money spent for it, and it may already be too faded for wear.
Beware buying on line! There are dozens of military knock-offs,
particularly in BDUs, which are not certified to Air Force standards.
They are poorly made, with inferior fabric, and the camouflage colors
don't quite look right. But they will charge you for the real thing, so
buy the real thing to start with. Look for clues on the website such as,
'official issue' or 'DoD approved.' If you don't see that, move on.

**2.** **Does It Fit?**

I have seen more than my share of high-water pants and shirt
button-stretch, all indicators the uniform is too small. At the other
extreme is clown-large. Before ordering on-line or by catalog, properly
measure yourself to be certain of getting the right size. What fit you
last time may not fit now. If you are a growing cadet, it is permissible
to go up a half, or even a full size, and still look good. A sizing
chart is provided at the end of the Guide.

**3. Is It Serviceable?**

I've seen BDUs so faded there is no color left, just grids on the
rip-stop fabric, and a suggestion of monochromic blotches. I guess this
is supposed to look 'salty', but it actually looks ridiculous. Any item
faded more than two shades ought to be discarded. Missing buttons can be
replaced, but items with permanent stains, frays, tears, and
wear-shadows (a wallet outline on the back pocket), also need to be
discarded.

**4.** **Is It Clean & Wrinkle Free?**

This isn't rocket science. A gorilla can learn to launder and iron a
shirt. If you're a gorilla, you still don't have to learn it - take it
to the cleaner's, they'll do it for you!

**Assess Your Grooming**

The uniform has to fit the person; but the person must also fit the
uniform. I am talking about grooming, in particular -- hair. Grooming
and the uniform can't be separated; it's a package deal. Your uniform
can be utter perfection, but if your grooming isn't, command presence is
ruined like a car hit by a train. You don't have to get a boot camp
buzz, just comply with the standards, well... sort of, I'll explain.

Because 39-1 allows something doesn't make it a good thing to do. The
current Air Force hair standards were adopted in the 1970s. The draft
had ended and the military became all volunteer. As a recruiting aid
hair standards were relaxed to accommodate the shaggy hairstyles that
were popular at the time. But as earlier stated, customs change over
time, and that shaggy 1970's look allowed by 39-1 and the AFI have long
disappeared.

As a matter of practice, you will not see these styles *anywhere* in the
uniformed services today. 39-1 and the AFI have fallen behind the
unwritten rules of current military customs and practices. The troops
are always ahead of the uniform AFI. Why hasn't the Air Force updated
the AFI? No need to, everyone looks better than that. And here I part
company with 39-1, and some of its quaint standards.

**1.** **Male hair cuts.**

Hair must not touch the ears or the collar at the back of the neck. Hair
cannot exceed one and one-half inches in bulk, as it will 'poke' out
from under the flight or service cap. Blocked haircuts are forbidden,
period. Hair is required to be tapered (your barber knows the
difference). The back of the neck usually requires shaving the hair too
short to cut with clippers. 'Bangs' (hair drooping down on the forehead)
is allowed by 39-1 but is no longer an acceptable custom

**2. Female hairstyles.**

Hair length is limited to an imaginary horizontal line resting on the
top of the back collar. It may touch the *top* of the collar, but can't
drop below that line, anywhere about the head. Hair length many exceed
the collar standard, provided it is worn up and braided. After turning
the hair up, any dangling hair at the back of the neck must be shaved
off. Bulk is also limited (3-inches), so the cap doesn't look like its
floating on a hair cloud. 39-1 allows hair to be visible in front of the
flight cap, but this is not accepted by current custom.

**3.** **Mustaches.**

Prior to the 1970s males were required to be clean-shaven. The mustache
is a classic example of how open some standards can be. Mustaches were
very popular in the armed forces during the 1980s -- nearly every airman
had one. That bulky 'walrus' was everywhere. Mustaches began to go away
and are now seldom seen. If you see one, it will be close clipped. While
both styles are within the same standard, there is a world of difference
between them. In the current Marine Corps uniform manual mustache hair
cannot exceed 1/12^th^ of an inch in length.

**4.** **Sideburns.**

Oh, Pease... don't! You will not see sideburns on *any* member of the
Air Force. I'll guarantee you, an airman reporting to my duty station
with sideburns would have been sent immediately to the base barber --
allowable or not! That is the power of custom to over ride regulation.
One thing does puzzle me, why does 39-1 allow cadets to have longer
sideburns than seniors? A steak dinner awaits anyone who can explain
this to me. The US Army, Navy, and Marine Corps uniform manuals forbid
sideburns altogether.

**FLIGHT & SERVICE CAPS**

**1.** **Preparing the cap.**

Inspect the cap for sweat rings, dirt, stains, dust and lint. A dirty or
stained cap requires dry-cleaning. Dust and lint are removed with a
clothes brush. Flight caps are easily dry-cleaned, but while service
caps are dry-cleanable, few laundries are equipped to do so; you may
have to just replace it. Remove the cap insignia and wipe off
accumulated grime using a cloth damped with Windex, then add a coat of
paste car wax. Q-tips will remove wax residue from crevasses.

The Visor and strap of the service cap ought to be shined with black
polish. Remove the chinstrap from the cap and place it on a flat surface
for polishing. Use painters or masking tape as a shield to prevent wax
from getting on the cloth of the cap while polishing the bill. Once the
service cap is prepared do not handle it by grasping the bill. Grip the
cap with the index finger over the top of the crown, with the thumb and
middle fingers astraddle the cap device. Caps should be dust covered
when stored.

**2.** **Wearing the cap.**

The flight cap is worn square on the head, no tilt to the side, and
forward. The back of the cap is always higher than the front when worn
(the same is true for the BDU cap). If you can't wear the flight cap
with the back higher than the front, because the front now rests on your
nose -- the cap is to big. The expansion crevice on the top of the cap
should be in a 'closed' position (the female cap is designed to be
open). If it is open, the hat is too small or you have pulled it down
too far on the head.

The service cap is also worn square on the head, no tilt to the side,
and forward. Place two fingers along the bridge of your nose, the tip of
the index finger touching the notch at the top of the nose, the visor
ought to touch the top (middle) finger, or the top rim of your
eyeglasses.

**THE BLUE SHIRT**

The secret to looking sharp in the blue shirt is to make the shirt and
everything on it look like one single piece. There are two (2) types of
blue shirts. The first is the 'issue' shirt, which is polyester-cotton.
The second is an up-grade of polyester-wool. The poly-wool shirt costs a
little more and has to be dry cleaned, but it takes and holds a razor
sharp crease, is very wrinkle resistant, and is more comfortable than
the poly-cotton shirt. Do not under any circumstances, launder or starch
a poly-wool shirt!

**1.** **Prep the shirt.**

Before doing anything with a new poly-cotton shirt, have it laundered.
This will pre-shrink the shirt. When new patches are sewn on a new shirt
you will get 'patch pucker' the first time its laundered. This is
because the patch and the shirt will shrink at different rates, causing
the fabric around the patch to bunch up, this cannot be ironed out. New
patches (and BDU cloth nametapes and badges) also need pre-shrinking.
Drop them into a bowl or basin of very hot water for a few minutes. Let
the patch air dry, newspaper will help soak water out of the patch. If
you already have patch pucker, remove the patch, iron the shirt, and
re-sew the patch to the shirt.

[Placing The Wing Patch]{.underline}. Somewhere along the line CAP got
its wires crossed. The Air Force Uniform Instruction directs all
chevrons (which are just big patches) to be centered on the shoulder
seam, which also means centered on the sleeve. There is no mention
whatever of the epaulet. The center of the shoulder seam, and the
sleeve, is located at the back edge of the epaulet where it joins the
shoulder seam. When placed on the center of the sleeve the patch will be
split into equal halves by the natural crease, as it should be.

Epaulets are set *forward* on the shoulders and this causes the patch to
be pitched forward on the sleeve. A patch centered on the epaulet
doesn't look quite right, and you can't make it look right. When the
sleeve is creased at its natural center the patch appears to move even
more forward on the sleeve. A proper crease may miss the patch entirely,
or worse yet, slice the patch off center. The alternative is not to
crease the sleeve, stop the crease under the patch, or crease it off
center, all of which makes it look even worse. Since CAP has made the
wing patch optional, opt not to wear it and hope CAP corrects the
placement error.

[Remove All Loose Threads]{.underline}. And there will be plenty of
them. The manufacturing process for the blue shirt leaves loose thread
on the buttons, around buttonholes, and on every seam: collar, epaulets,
cuffs and pockets. Carefully inspect the shirt for loose threads and
clip them off with a pair of sharp fingernail clippers. Do the same with
BDU trousers and jackets.

[Sew The Pocket Flaps]{.underline}. Even starched (more about that
later) the pocket flaps will not lay down. You can't put anything in the
pockets anyway, so sew them down. This is done using white thread on the
seam line already existing on the trim around the pocket flap edges.
Make sure flaps are absolutely flat on the pocket when sewn, or the
pocket will bulge. Sewing them down adds a crisp look to the shirt and
accents the military lines.

[Tailoring]{.underline}. The blue shirt is a full cut shirt, which will
billow out around the waist if you don't get it trimmed. Do not 'peg'
the shirt, you want it tapered with a little slack, you should be able
to pinch about 2-inches of loose shirt, on each side at the waist. That
slack is folded back at the beltline when worn.

[Starching]{.underline}. If your shirt is poly-cotton STARCH IT! A heavy
starched shirt is probably the most important thing you can do to look
sharp. You cannot get a heavy, or even a medium starch on the shirt, out
of a spray can. Spray starches are good only for light starch or to
touch up a shirt previously starched. A heavy spraying of canned starch
will build up on the shirt surface and give it an unwanted shinny
appearance. Have the shirt starched by a commercial laundry.

It won't be perfect, so don't expect it to be. In a commercial laundry
the shirt comes off the steam press still damp and gets shoved onto a
rack against other shirts, so there will be wrinkles. I re-iron the
shirt with a steam iron set for cottons and use Faultless spray starch
for touch ups. Excess starch will bead up on the shirt as a white powder
-- quickly brush it away before it dries and sticks to the shirt.

A starched shirt not only looks better, it will not wilt in hot, humid
weather. It is also cooler and more comfortable as the starch dissipates
some body heat and moisture.

If you must starch your own shirt, it has happened to me occasionally,
you can get an acceptable appearance with spray starch. First, turn the
shirt inside out, then spray and steam iron the entire shirt, with no
creases in the sleeves. Then turn the shirt right side out and repeat
the process, this time creasing the sleeves.

[Name Tags, Ribbons, Badges & Cutouts]{.underline}. I am not going to
waste time telling you where to mount them, but how to mount them, so
they look good. All of these items require backing to hold them upright
and snug against the fabric of the shirt. Otherwise they tend to 'hang'
on the end of the clutch pins looking droopy. Do not buy commercial
'enforcers' the cure is worse than the disease. They are too thick, the
wrong shape, and can be seen through the shirt.

I use the stiff paper cartons that single serving cupcakes are packaged
in. I chose them because they are easy to get, are the right thickness,
and easy to work with. Peel the carton seams open, double it by folding
(white unprinted side out) in two along one of the existing fold lines.
Center the top of the item at the top of the fold you made. Punch the
clutch pins through and with the item firmly pressed against the white
surface of the carton, cut around and as close to it as possible, with a
small pair of scissors. You should now have a backing of double thick
paper in the shape and size of the item to be backed.

Fix the item to the shirt, and from the inside of the shirt re-affix the
backing in the pinholes already made, then add the clutch backs. If the
backing shows through the front of the shirt, it needs to be trimmed,
until its no longer conspicuous.

The human finger secretes an oily fat. This finger residue builds up on
your nametag, insignia, and cutouts. As a result they attract and hold
dirt. You need to clean this off so the insignia and cutouts will
sparkle. A cloth with a little Windex will do just that. A coat of paste
car wax will give your nametag a nice sheen, and your cutouts and badges
will look like mirrors.

Unless you handle your ribbons wearing gloves, over time, your finger
residue will turn them grungy. Wearing grunge ribbons is an offense to
your honor -- replace them. A note about ribbons: You can do-it-yourself
or have them done for you. If you are a do-it-yourselfer, I offer the
following tips. Do not buy curved ribbon mounts. They are more trouble
than they are worth and don't look good on the shirt, stay with a
straight mount if possible. Ribbon devices come with little prongs
designed to punch through the ribbon, cut them off. Prongs almost always
deform the ribbon or tear it. Use a white glue (such as Elmer's) to fix
the device on the ribbon.

Your ribbons can be custom mounted and look super sharp. These ribbons
are flawless and one-third the thickness of self-mounted racks. You can
check them out at Ultra-Thin Ribbons on the Internet at
[www.ultrathin.com](http://www.ultrathin.com/). They have a complete
line of CAP ribbons. They cost a little more, but you get what you pay
for.

[Ties, Tacks & Clasps]{.underline}. A lint brush will keep the tie
looking good, but have it dry cleaned for spots, stains, or anything
else that won't brush out. I prefer the tie tack to the clasp. The clasp
never seems to stay in place and always slants up or down. The eye is
immediately attracted to the flaw and that spoils the look you want to
achieve. Fold the tie so the bottom tip touches the top of the knot;
place the tack, centered on the tie, at the fold you just made. Slip the
back tail of the tie through the retaining band on the back of the front
tail. The back tail also has buttonholes; button the tie to the shirt.

[Wearing The Blue Shirt]{.underline}. A white tee shirt is *required*
under the blue shirt. Wear the short-sleeved (open collar) shirt with a
'V' necked tee. The long sleeve, is *never* worn open collared, and
should be backed with a crew neck tee because a 'V' neck will show
through the shirt. The long sleeve also requires a tie.

When dressing, tuck your tee shirt into the waistband of your underwear
to keep the blue shirt from riding up. Don't just jam the shirt into the
trouser. Keep the fly open and tuck the shirt in. Reach around inside
the trousers and pull the shirttails down to straighten them, this makes
the shirt more comfortable and minimizes wrinkles.

After closing the fly, the front of the shirt across the top of the
slacks, ought to be smooth, but not taut. Place your thumbs between the
shirt and trouser and work any wrinkles at the belt line back toward the
hips. This gives the shirt a crisp wrinkle free front. Now buckle the
belt keeping your 'gig' line in place: the buttoned edge of the shirt,
in line with the vertical dent on the belt buckle, in line with the
outside edge of the zipper flap. You can wear shirt garters or a
tailor's sub-belt to keep the shirt from riding up.

**3. The Blue Belt**.

The belt comes in one size, very long, and must be trimmed to length. It
also comes in two (2) genders, guys and gals. The gal belt is designed
specially to conform to the female waist. To trim the belt put it on
with the alligator clasp open so you can slide excess belt through it.
Buckle the belt so that the chrome tip is properly aligned with the
buckle: no blue showing between the tip and the buckle and no buckle
chrome showing under or beyond the metal tip. This is a precise fit.

Now pull the excess belting through the open clasp until the belt fits,
and then close the clasp. Use a felt tipped marker to mark the belt
about one inch out from the clasp -- this is where you'll trim the belt.
It's best to cut it long rather than too short; you can always trim it
again if you need to. Use a cloth with Windex to make the buckle and tip
shine, a coat of car wax is even better.

**4. The Blue Trouser**.

Trousers should be brushed for lint and dust each time you put them on.
Do not launder trousers; it's a dry clean only deal. Do not put a bare
iron to the fabric -- this causes the cloth to 'shine', which is
permanent damage. If you must iron, place a cotton handkerchief between
the iron and fabric to prevent shining.

Trousers are sized according to waist and come either in 'L', 'M', or
'S'. This has nothing to do with inseam length! Trouser legs are always
very long, unfinished, and must be hemmed. The L (long), M (medium), and
S (short) refer to the trousers *rise*, which is the length from the
crotch to the belt line. If you have to reach between your knees to zip
up your trousers you need a shorter rise.

The inseam should be hemmed so that the trouser touches the top of the
shoe with a slight break in the crease. The back of the leg should be
dropped about seven-eights of an inch, so it covers the back of the
shoe, but does not touch the heel of the shoe.

**5. Low Quarters**.

There are two types of shoes, poromeric (high gloss plastic), and
leather. Females ought to purchase male shoes, as do many women in the
air force. The male shoe provides better support, better comfort, better
protection from heat and cold; they look, shine, and wear better than
flimsier female shoes. When wearing shoes, the knot loops and excess
lace should be tucked away between the sock and the shoe. This gives the
shoe a clean look (no flopping laces) and prevents the knot from
loosening. Of course, plain black socks are also required.

**6. Shinning Shoes & Boots**.

"The quality of an airman is measured by the time, effort, and care
invested to shine shoes and boots". USAF NCO Leadership School

[Shinning plastic shoes]{.underline}. It's plastic, and like all
plastics it attracts dust and develops a grungy film. Carefully remove
any dirt or grit that will scratch the gloss finish. Using bare fingers,
rub a thin veil of Vaseline over the shoe (including the tongue) to
dissolve and carry away the grunge film. Do not use Windex or other
detergent cleaners as they only add to the grunge you are trying to
eliminate. Wipe away all traces of Vaseline with a soft, dry cloth. Now
add a coat of paste car wax and let it dry. Gently buff the shoe with a
clean, dry, soft cloth: preferably an old cotton tee shirt or a cloth
diaper. Add a second coat.

[Shoe waxes, creams, cotton balls & cloths]{.underline}. Before we get
to the nuts and bolts of polishing leather shoes, a few comments on the
materials you will use are in order. Paste shoe wax comes in several
densities for specific uses: there are hard waxes that have a high
carnauba wax content and little solvent, there are medium waxes with a
balance of wax and solvents, and there are soft waxes with high solvent
content.

Allen Edmond's shoe polish is a hard wax and comes in a glass jar. You
can get it anywhere Allen Edmond's shoes are sold. You can go online to
[www.allenedmonds.com](http://www.allenedmonds.com/) and click on shoe
care. Hard waxes are not suitable for spit shining, but they will
produce an exceptional high gloss shine with proper buffing. Lincoln and
Kelly waxes are medium waxes and are good for spit or buff shining. Kiwi
is a soft wax not recommended for a buff shine, but it produces a
brilliant spit shine. Kiwi also markets a polish called Parade Gloss. It
contains silicone and is difficult to work with, so avoid it until your
spit shine skills are well developed.

Shoe creams and dyes are essential. Dyes are coloring agents used to
restore the shoe's original color. Creams also contain leather dye, but
it also has emollients, which restore and preserve the leather itself.
Do not use saddle soaps, mink oil, or spray silicon on your shoes. Shoe
cream should be applied after striping off a spit shine, to prepare the
leather for the next spite shine. Use shoe cream occasionally before a
buff shine. I prefer Allen Edmond's shoe cream. It comes in a squeeze
tube and is labeled as polish -- but it's still a cream, and the best
available. Straight shoe dyes are required when you over-strip a shoe.
Over stripping occurs when you are removing old wax and continue into
the top layer of the leather, removing or fading the color dye. Avoid
over stripping.

Using the right kind of cloth is essential for a great shine. Cotton is
the only cloth suitable for buff and spit shining. Make sure the cloth
is 100% cotton -- no blends. Be aware that some 'cotton' balls are in
fact all polyester; polyester will actually remove the wax you are
trying to apply. Old tee shirts that have been laundered dozens of
times, cotton diapers, and cotton balls produced brilliant shines. One
caution about old tee shirts: if you have hard water, then calcium,
iron, and detergent reside will be built up in the cloth and it isn't
useable. If this is the case, buy cotton diapers.

The water you use also affects the quality of your shine. If you have
hard water, or can smell chlorine in it, use bottled water.

[The buff shine]{.underline}. This is a quick and easy shine. Use a
camel hair shoe brush to buff away any dirt and dust. Apply a coat of
black shoe cream and follow the directions. Wrap a tee shirt or diaper
around the shoe brush and buff. Add a coat of hard or medium wax using a
cotton cloth; do not use an application brush, or the foam pad that
sometimes comes with the wax container. Melt the wax with a butane
fireplace lighter. You want to use the heat of the flame, but do not
touch the flame directly on the wax. All waxes are flammable so use
common sense and caution! When the dull wax suddenly develops a sheen it
is melted, immediately move on to another area. Allow the wax to cool
and then wrap a cloth around your shoe brush and buff the shoe. Hard
waxes are not prone to melting and clouding in heat and sunlight like
the spit shine does.

[The spit shine]{.underline}. There is more to it than wax, water, and a
cotton ball. However, properly done, a spit shine will out class the
poromeric shoe every time. In the process that follows you *cannot* skip
any of the procedures listed, if you do, you will have wasted your time
and materials. A first spit shine, from stripping to finish coat, will
take about an hour, perhaps two, if your shoes are in bad condition and
require additional prepping.

[How a spit shine works]{.underline}. You are not shining the leather
you are shining the wax! In essence, you are going to settle the wax
with motion, dragging it around in little circles. That circular motion
also rubs tiny wax particles together, forcing them to buff against each
other, producing a brilliant shine. The reason for using water is to
keep the wax from sticking to the cloth and to encourage it to stick to
the leather. Water also makes the cotton softer so it doesn't leave tiny
scratches on the polished surface.

[Stripping]{.underline}. Shoes must be clean. Both new and old shoes
ought to be stripped. New ones to remove factory wax, and old ones to
remove any existing polish. Cotton terry cloth: an old towel or
washcloth, works best for stripping. Lighter fluid will strip the shoe
of wax. Dampen the cloth not the shoe with the fluid. When the cloth no
longer accumulates wax the shoe is stripped. Lighter fluid is highly
flammable! Use common sense and be safety conscious. Shoes can also be
striped using a solution of half water and half rubbing alcohol. After
stripping restore the leather using a black shoe dye or a shoe cream.

[Applying the wax]{.underline}. To use a cloth, put your index and
middle fingers together and wrap a double layer of tee shirt around
them, so there is a smooth (no wrinkles) flat surface under the
fingertips. Dip your fingers into a bowel of water. Your cloth should be
wet, but not dripping. Don't allow dry areas of your rag to flop or drag
on the surface of the wax. Use the cotton ball by dipping it in water
and squeezing out the excess.

[The thick coat]{.underline}. This is the foundation of the shine. The
most common mistake made by novice spit-shiners is not putting enough
wax on the thick coat. Apply a thick coat of wax all over the shoe,
tongue included, and let dry 15 minutes. Dab a small amount of wax on a
wet cotton ball or tee shirt, and gently buff the thick coat working in
small circles until a hazy shine develops. Do not buff the wax to a
complete shine! Keep adding fresh wax over the hazy shine, until a base
coat develops. Work your way around the shoe with each layer of wax,
this will ensure uniform coverage and uniform shine.

[Base coats]{.underline}. After adding several layers of wax you will
feel the base coat develop. You'll know when the base coat is finished
because suddenly, the drag on your cloth or cotton ball will go away and
the surface will feel smooth as glass -- it's still hazy, but the base
coat is finished. Now you can buff the wax to a clear and complete
shine, or add additional coats.

[Dealing with 'flake']{.underline}. Spit shined wax will flake off the
flex creases in the shoe leather. It sparkles like little shards of
glass. Spit shined wax is cohesive and *all* of it will flake off, right
down to the leather. During the spit shine process some will put the
shoe on and 'walk it out' removing flake as it builds up, others wait
till the shine is finished. You can pull the flakes off with your wet
cloth or cotton ball, or work it back into the shine. Put a couple of
thin coats of wax on the flex creases and develop to a clear shine. As
there is no thick or base coat on the creases, the wax will not flake,
and still have some shine to it.

[Maintaining a spite shine]{.underline}. After wearing spit shined shoes
they will have dust or dirt on them. Wrap a cloth around a shoe brush
and gently buff the shoe clean. Then add another coat of wax. A spit
shine will sometimes melt or cloud over in hot weather or when standing
too long in the sun. Clouding occurs because heat and sunlight will
vaporize solvents captured in the wax, which rise to the surface. Just
buff and add a coat of wax. Scuffs and scraps are repairable by filling
the defect with wax, let it dry, and then add a finish coat or two over
it.

[Shoeshine tips]{.underline}:

> On the flex creases in the shoe do not apply wax in circles, instead
> work back and forth in the direction of the crease. This will minimize
> the tendency of the crease to 'flake' the wax when the shoe is worn,
> and limit the spread of flaking when it occurs.
>
> When you finish the spit shine sop up remaining beads of water on the
> surface of the wax, or they will dry and leave water spots.
>
> Remove the shoelaces before you start and polish the entire shoe, not
> just the toes, including the tongue. Rinse the laces to wash away dust
> and dirt. Replace the laces after shinning.
>
> Always finish the job with a coat of black edge dressing on the sides
> of the sole and heels.

Your spit shine will get better and better, and take less and less time,
as you gain experience. There are few things as gratifying as that
mirror finish on your shoes or boots -- Good Luck!

[Honor Guard shoes]{.underline}.

Cadet honor guard takes discipline and uniform to a whole new level for
CAP. Part of the special uniform is the shoes, which require custom
modification. And not just any shoe can be modified. The shoe requires a
second sole so that cheaters can be attached, and a leather heel to hold
metal horseshoe plates. The poromeric shoe is a poor candidate for
modification. It has a plastic storm welt and insole (as do *all* shoes
with leather uppers and synthetic soles; such as Vibram, Hypalon, and
Polyurethane). A cobbler can modify them but the cost is exorbitant, and
if the welt tears and has to be replaced its even more expensive. The
only shoe available that is ready made for the modification is the Air
Force 'issue' leather low quarter, sold at any base clothing sales
store. It has a leather storm welt, insole and sole. It is very easy to
add the second sole (even a third) and leather heal, at a third of the
cost of a poromeric or other 'soft' soled shoe. The price is also right
at \$43.00 a pair.

[Blisters]{.underline}. While on the topic of shoes I think a few words
on blistering may be helpful. Blisters occur because the shoe or boot
does not fit properly, isn't broken in, or the wrong kind of sock is
being worn. When purchasing shoes or boots get your *exact* size by
having your feet properly measured. Some boots, such as Corcoran's will
feel tight in the correct size. That is because the leather is designed
to stretch into an exact fit to your foot -- they require a break in
period. Wearing the wrong socks is discussed below in the BDU section.
To help a new pair of boots break in, put them on, then get them soaking
wet (the shower is a good place for that or a garden hose). Wear them
for a while wet, preferably walking around, then set them aside to dry.

To prevent blistering pre-tape those areas on your foot that are prone
to blisters. Use band-aids or white medical adhesive tape. Then wear two
pair of socks; a pair of low quarter socks under your boot socks works
well. This re-directs the blister producing friction away from your
skin.

**7. The Female Uniform**.

The ladies have a number of options in the blue service uniform. Slacks
or skirt, and over-blouse or tuck-in shirt. From a military uniform
point of view I prefer slacks with the tuck-in shirt. The over-blouse is
silly, it looks like you forgot to tuck your shirt in, and a skirt is
for more formal dress. If you insist on wearing the skirt, length is
always an issue. 39-1 is sort of vague about the matter (from top to
bottom of the knee). The US Army manual requires the skirt hem to be
within one and one-half inches of the flexion crease at the back of the
knee joint. The Navy and Marine Corps require the knees to be covered.
If you wear trousers and tuck-in shirt the rules are the same as for the
male uniform.

**8. Refreshing your uniform**.

When wearing your uniform it will accumulate lint, dust, and a few
wrinkles. Unless you've trashed it and need to send it to the laundry;
just a little brushing, touch-up ironing, cleaning buckles and insignia,
and fresh wax on your shoes is all that is required for the next wear.

**Preparing & Wearing The Battle Dress Uniform**

There are two (2) ways of wearing the BDU in the Air Force: field or
base. On base, many of the preparations for the blue uniform also apply
to the BDU; heavy starch, spit shined boots, etc. For field wear in the
Air Force the BDU is never starched nor are boots spit shined. This is
because the BDU comes with a special treatment to reduce its infrared
signature (unless you *want* to light up like a Christmas Tree in a
night vision scope). Starching will intensify the BDU infrared
signature. The same with spit shined boots; but I don't foresee that is
a problem in CAP. The important thing is to look professional, even if
you're off to crawl through the mud - you should never report for duty
in the BDU looking like you already did.

[BDU Types & Fit]{.underline}. There are two types of BDUs, Temperate
and Enhanced Hot Weather. Temperate BDUs are made of a heavy cloth for
cold weather, and the Enhanced is self-explanatory. To ensure a proper
fit the BDU blouse is made in 24 different sizes, and the BDU trouser
also in 24 sizes. Use the chart at the end of the Guide. I have seen
some websites offering BDUs in only small, medium, and large sizes --
whatever that means. BDU tee shirts are now available in polypropylene
-- a huge advantage in hot muggy weather. And a Thinsulate liner is also
available for the M-65 field jacket, making it truly wearable in cold
weather.

[Boot droop & blousing]{.underline}. Blousing the trouser too long
causes boot droop. This is excessive trouser length hanging down over
the boot. The trouser legs should be bloused to the top of the boot,
with an extra inch or so, to allow for sitting. Bootlace excess should
not be wrapped around the top of the boot. When the laces are tied, tuck
the knot loops and lace ends in between your sock and the inside top of
the boot.

There are two types of blousing bands. The expansion, or stretch band,
has been around since WWII. I don't use it because it wants to roll up
when sitting, and it cuts off the circulation to my feet. The
alternative is the blousing band. The band is about 2 inches wide and
fastens together with Velcro ends. To use the bands you first turn the
BDU trouser inside out, slide your feet into the bottom of the inside
out legs, put on your boots, place the band around the inside out leg at
the top of the boot, and pull up the trousers. It takes a little
practice before you find the right length. Length can be adjusted by
sliding the end of the trouser up or down the calf of your leg. Of
course you can just tuck the excess trouser length inside the boot.

[Boot socks]{.underline}. *Never* wear cotton athletic socks in military
boots! They make your feet sweat (I think that's why we call them sweat
socks), promote microbe and fugal growth inside the boot, and almost
guarantees you blisters! Wear wool or wool blend socks designed for
boots. Now there are polypropylene socks, that 'wick' moister away from
your feet, and some are temperature rated for hot or cold environments.

[Boots]{.underline}. There is a wide variety of boots that are
authorized for wear. While selection of boots is now largely a personal
matter, I will offer you one caution. Never buy cheap boots! Cheap boots
are just that -- cheap! They are poorly made with inferior materials and
can cause nearly unbearable misery in the field. If your boots cost less
than \$95.00 you have cheap boots and will regret the day you bought
them -- if you haven't already.

[Over-boots]{.underline}. No matter what kind of boot you wear an
over-boot is essential to keep your feet dry in prolonged exposure to
cold and wet field conditions. You probably know the over-boot as
galoshes, or overshoes. You can still buy overshoes, in zip-up or buckle
closures, at most police uniform stores.

[Cap stiffener]{.underline}. Every BDU cap ought to have a stiffener,
which forces the cap to keep its shape.

[BDU Belt]{.underline}. The standard issue web belt really isn't up to
the job for BDU wear. Replace it with a 1-3/4 inch leather garrison
belt, plain black, with silver buckle. These belts can be obtained from
any police uniform store. Or get a nylon parachute riggers belt, sold by
many military supply stores. A pair of BDU braces (suspenders) is also
useful. They come in black, olive drab, and camouflage.

This concludes my primer on uniforms. I hope you find it useful. I would
remind all seniors who wear the CAP uniform in lieu of the Air Force
uniform that all the principles presented here can also be applied to
the CAP uniform -- try it, you'll be amazed.

Remember when we started? You put the blue uniform on, looked into the
mirror, and inspected yourself. If you have completed all the
preparations recommended here, do it again. Looking good? You Bet!
Proud? You should be!

Questions, suggestions, comments? Please email me at
afchief@earthlink.net

CIVIL AIR PATROL

78^th^ Cadet Squadron (East Iowa)

UNIFORM INSPECTION CHECK LIST

CADET: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ INSPECTOR:
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ DATE: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_

### BLUE UNIFORM

+---------+---------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| # Item  | **Out of      | **Standard**       | **Outstanding**      |
|         | Uniform**     |                    |                      |
+---------+---------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| ## Hair | Dirty         | Clean              | Cut Short            |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Uncombed      | Combed             | Neck Shaved          |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Touching Ears | Tapered Medium Cut | High & Tight         |
|         | Touching      |                    |                      |
|         | Collar        |                    |                      |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Blocked Cut   |                    |                      |
+---------+---------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| ## Serv | Unauthorized  | Clean              | Insignia Polished    |
| ice Cap |               |                    |                      |
|         | Missing       | Proper Fit         | Polished Bill        |
|         | Insignia      |                    |                      |
|         |               | Worn Properly      | Polished Chin Strap  |
|         | Too           |                    |                      |
|         | Large/Small   |                    |                      |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Lin           |                    |                      |
|         | t-Dust-Stains |                    |                      |
+---------+---------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| ## Fli  | Unauthorized  | Clean              | Insignia Polished    |
| ght Cap |               |                    |                      |
|         | Too           | Proper Fit         |                      |
| #       | Large/Small   |                    |                      |
| # Beret |               | Insignia Correctly |                      |
|         | Lin           | Placed             |                      |
|         | t-Dust-Stains |                    |                      |
|         |               | Properly Worn      |                      |
|         | Missing       |                    |                      |
|         | Insignia      |                    |                      |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Insignia      |                    |                      |
|         | incorrectly   |                    |                      |
|         | placed        |                    |                      |
+---------+---------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| #       | Unauthorized  | Clean              | Loose threads        |
| # Shirt |               |                    | clipped              |
|         | Too           | Proper fit         |                      |
|         | Large/Small   |                    | Starched             |
|         |               | Pressed            |                      |
|         | Faded         |                    | Tailored             |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Frayed or     |                    | Pockets Sewn Down    |
|         | torn          |                    |                      |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Missing       |                    |                      |
|         | Buttons       |                    |                      |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Unbuttoned    |                    |                      |
|         | pockets       |                    |                      |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Dirt or       |                    |                      |
|         | Stains        |                    |                      |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Wrinkles      |                    |                      |
+---------+---------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| ## C    | Unauthorized  | Correctly placed   | Polished             |
| ollar I |               |                    |                      |
| nsignia | Missing       |                    |                      |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Incorrectly   |                    |                      |
|         | placed        |                    |                      |
+---------+---------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| ##      | Unauthorized  | Correctly Placed   | Properly Backed      |
|  Badges |               |                    |                      |
|         | Incorrectly   |                    | Polished             |
|         | Placed        |                    |                      |
+---------+---------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| ##      | Unauthorized  | Correctly Placed   | Properly Backed      |
| Ribbons |               |                    |                      |
|         | Incorrectly   | In-Precedence      | Custom Mounted       |
|         | Placed        |                    |                      |
|         |               | Clean              |                      |
|         | Out of        |                    |                      |
|         | Precedence    |                    |                      |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Frayed --     |                    |                      |
|         | torn - dirty  |                    |                      |
+---------+---------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| ## Win  | Missing       | Correctly Placed   | Centered on Sleeve   |
| g Patch |               | 39-1               |                      |
|         | Incorrectly   |                    | Crease cuts patch in |
|         | Placed        |                    | half                 |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Creased       |                    |                      |
|         | off-Center    |                    |                      |
+---------+---------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| ## N    | Missing       | Correctly Placed   | Properly Backed      |
| ame Tag |               |                    |                      |
|         | Incorrectly   |                    | Polished             |
|         | Placed        |                    |                      |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Dirty         |                    |                      |
+---------+---------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| ##      | Unauthorized  | Proper Gig-Line    | Buckle & Tip         |
|         |               |                    | Polished             |
| ## Belt | Missing       | Clean Buckle & Tip |                      |
|         |               |                    |                      |
| ####    | Untrimmed     |                    |                      |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Dirty or      |                    |                      |
|         | Frayed        |                    |                      |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Scratched     |                    |                      |
|         | Buckle        |                    |                      |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Out of        |                    |                      |
|         | Gig-Line      |                    |                      |
+---------+---------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| ## T    | Unauthorized  | Proper Fit         | Back drops 7/8" to   |
| rousers |               |                    | cover                |
|         | Waist to      | Touches top of     |                      |
|         | Large/Small   | shoe with slight   | Shoe without         |
|         |               | break in crease    | touching             |
|         | Improperly    |                    |                      |
|         | Hemmed        | Proper Hem         | Heel                 |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Inseam too    | Clean              |                      |
|         | long or short |                    |                      |
|         |               | Pressed            |                      |
|         | Faded --      |                    |                      |
|         | Stained       |                    |                      |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | L             |                    |                      |
|         | int-Dust-Dirt |                    |                      |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Wrinkled      |                    |                      |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Iron Shine    |                    |                      |
+---------+---------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| #       | Missing       | Clean              |                      |
| # Socks |               |                    |                      |
|         | Unauthorized  |                    |                      |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Dirty         |                    |                      |
+---------+---------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| #       | Unauthorized  | Clean              | Poromeric Waxed      |
| # Shoes |               |                    |                      |
|         | Dirty         | Polished           | Leather Spit Shined  |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Unpolished    |                    | Edge Dressing        |
|         |               |                    |                      |
|         | Toes only     |                    | Laces Stowed         |
|         | Polished      |                    |                      |
+---------+---------------+--------------------+----------------------+

### BATTLE DRESS

+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+
| ### Item        | **Out of        | **Standard**    | **Outstanding** |
|                 | Uniform**       |                 |                 |
+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+
| **BDU Cap**     | Unauthorized    | Proper Fit      | BDU Cap has     |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
| **Squadron      | Too Large/Small | Clean           | Stiffener       |
| Cap**           |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | Faded           |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | Dirty - Stained |                 |                 |
+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+
| ## BDU Blouse   | Unauthorized    | Clean           | Starched        |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | Too Large/Small | Buttons         |                 |
|                 |                 | Buttoned        |                 |
|                 | Dirty --        |                 |                 |
|                 | Stained         | Pressed         |                 |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | Torn            |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | Wrinkles        |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | Missing Buttons |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | Unbuttoned      |                 |                 |
|                 | Pockets         |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | Faded more than |                 |                 |
|                 | 2-shades        |                 |                 |
+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+
| ##              | Unauthorized    | Correctly       |                 |
|                 |                 | Placed          |                 |
| ## Cloth Tapes  | Missing         |                 |                 |
|                 |                 | Tape ends are   |                 |
| ## Badges       | Incorrectly     | folded under    |                 |
|                 | Placed          |                 |                 |
| ## Patches      |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | Tapes have      |                 |                 |
|                 | clipped off     |                 |                 |
|                 | ends            |                 |                 |
+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+
| ##              | Unauthorized    | Clean           | Starched        |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
| ## BDU Trousers | Waist Too       | Pressed         |                 |
|                 | Large/Small     |                 |                 |
|                 |                 | Bloused with no |                 |
|                 | Dirty --        | Boot Droop      |                 |
|                 | Stained         |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | Torn            |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | Wrinkles        |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | Missing Buttons |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | Unbuttoned      |                 |                 |
|                 | Pockets         |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | Faded more than |                 |                 |
|                 | 2-shades        |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | Un-bloused Legs |                 |                 |
+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+
| ##              | Unauthorized    | Polished        | Spit Shined     |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
| ## Boots        | Dirty           | Laces Stowed    |                 |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | Unpolished      |                 |                 |
+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+

78^th^ C[ADET]{.smallcaps} SQUADRON

MILITARY CLOTHING SIZING CHART

# Name: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Height: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Weight: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_

Hat Size: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Neck Size:
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Sleeve Length:
\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_

# Chest: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Waist: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Hips (Female): \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Inseam: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ 

# 

# Trouser Rise: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_Shoe/Boot: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_ Gloves: \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_

To ensure your measurements are correct have them taken by a tailor or a
clothing store sales person.

## HAT SIZE CHART

+-------------------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| ## Women's Sizes        | ## Men's Sizes     | ## Approximate       |
|                         |                    |                      |
|                         |                    | **Measurement**      |
+-------------------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| 20                      | 6 3/8              | 20 1/8               |
+-------------------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| 20 1/2                  | 6 1/2              | 20 1/2               |
+-------------------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| 21                      | 6 5/8              | 20 7/8               |
+-------------------------+--------------------+----------------------+
|                         | 6 3/4              | 21 1/4               |
+-------------------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| 21 1/2                  | 6 7/8              | 21 5/8               |
+-------------------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| 22                      | 7                  | 22                   |
+-------------------------+--------------------+----------------------+
|                         | 7 1/8              | 22 3/8               |
+-------------------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| 22 1/2                  | 7 1/4              | 22 3/4               |
+-------------------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| 23                      | 7 3/8              | 23 1/8               |
+-------------------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| 23 1/2                  | 7 1/2              | 23 1/2               |
+-------------------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| 24                      | 7 5/8              | 23 7/8               |
+-------------------------+--------------------+----------------------+
|                         | 7 3/4              | 24 1/4               |
+-------------------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| 24 1/2                  | 7 7/8              | 24 5/8               |
+-------------------------+--------------------+----------------------+
| 25                      | 8                  | 25                   |
+-------------------------+--------------------+----------------------+

Hat size: measure the circumference around the head at its widest point,
in inches. If your hat measurement is not on the chart, move up to the
next larger size. Do not add more than one-eight (1/8) of an inch to
match the chart.

## BDU SIZE CHART

+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+
| ## BDU COAT     |                 | ## BDU TROUSER  |                 |
+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+
| ## CHEST SIZE   | ## BACK LENGHT  | ## WAIST        | ## INSEAM       |
+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+
| XS (up to 33)   | XS (27 1/8)     | XS (up to 27)   | XS (up to 26    |
|                 |                 |                 | 1/2)            |
|                 | S (28 1/8)      |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 | S (26 1/2 -- 29 |
|                 | R (29 5/8)      |                 | 1/2)            |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 | R (29 1/2 -- 32 |
|                 |                 |                 | 1/2)            |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 | L (32 1/2 -- 35 |
|                 |                 |                 | 1/2)            |
+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+
| S (33 -- 37)    | XS (27 5/8)     | S (27 -- 31)    | XS (up to 26    |
|                 |                 |                 | 1/2)            |
|                 | S (28 5/8)      |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 | S (26 1/2 -- 29 |
|                 | R (30 1/8)      |                 | 1/2)            |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | L (31 1/2)      |                 | R (29 1/2 -- 32 |
|                 |                 |                 | 1/2)            |
|                 | XL (32 7/8)     |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 | L (32 1/2 -- 35 |
|                 |                 |                 | 1/2)            |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 | XL (35 1/2 &    |
|                 |                 |                 | up)             |
+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+
| ## BDU COAT     |                 | ## BDU TROUSER  |                 |
+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+
| ## CHEST SIZE   | ## BACK LENGTH  | ## WAIST        | ## INSEAM       |
+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+
| M (37 -- 41)    | XXS (27 3/8)    | M (31 -- 35)    | XS (26 1/2)     |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | XS (28 1/8)     |                 | S (26 1/2 -- 29 |
|                 |                 |                 | 1/2)            |
|                 | S (29 1/8)      |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 | R (29 1/2 -- 32 |
|                 | R (30 5/8)      |                 | 1/2)            |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | L (32)          |                 | L (32 1/2 -- 35 |
|                 |                 |                 | 1/2)            |
|                 | XL (33 3/8)     |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 | XL (35 1/2 --   |
|                 |                 |                 | 38 1/2)         |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 | XXL (38 1/2 &   |
|                 |                 |                 | up)             |
+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+
| L (41 -- 45)    | XS (27 7/8)     | L (35 -- 39)    | S (26 1/2 - 29  |
|                 |                 |                 | 1/2)            |
|                 | S (29 1/8)      |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 | R (29 1/2 - 32  |
|                 | R (31 1/8)      |                 | 1/2)            |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | L (32 1/2)      |                 | L (32 1/2 - 35  |
|                 |                 |                 | 1/2)            |
|                 | XL (33 7/8)     |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 | XL (35 1/2 --   |
|                 | XXL (35 5/8)    |                 | 39 1/2)         |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 | XXL (39 1/2 - & |
|                 |                 |                 | UP)             |
+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+
| XL (45 & up)    | R (31 5/8)      | XL (39 & up)    | S (26 1/2 -- 29 |
|                 |                 |                 | 1/2)            |
|                 | L (33)          |                 |                 |
|                 |                 |                 | R (29 1/2 -- 32 |
|                 | XL (34 5/8)     |                 | 1/2)            |
|                 |                 |                 |                 |
|                 | XXL (35 1/8)    |                 | L (32 1/2 -- 35 |
|                 |                 |                 | 1/2)            |
+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+
| NA              | NA              | XXL (46 1/2 &   | XXL (39 1/2)    |
|                 |                 | up)             |                 |
+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+-----------------+

The Back measurement for the BDU jacket is the same as for a suit coat.
The bottom of the jacket should fall below the belt line, and rest just
above the BDU cargo pockets.

TROUSER RISE

[Service Dress Trousers Only]{.underline}: Trouser rise is the distance
between the crotch and the waistband. Trouser rise is determined by the
chart below.

  ----------------------------------- -----------------------------------
  IF YOU ARE                          ORDER

  5' 7" OR UNDER                      SHORT RISE (S)

  5' 8" TO 6'                         REGULAR OR MEDIUM RISE (R or M)

  6' 1" AND TALLER                    LONG RISE (L)
  ----------------------------------- -----------------------------------

### GLOVE SIZE CHART

  -------------- -------------- -------------- -------------- --------------
  SIZE           SMALL          MEDIUM         LARGE          X-LARGE

  INCHES         7 -- 7 1/2     8 -- 8 ½       9 -- 9 ½       10 -- 10 1/2

  US MILITARY    3              3              4              5
  -------------- -------------- -------------- -------------- --------------

To Find your glove size: Keeping the palm of your hand open and flat,
measure around the widest point of your palm, excluding the thumb, in
inches.