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| ## eggplant {#eggplant .Title-Header}                                 |
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| *Solanum melongena* L.                                                |
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| Plant Symbol = SOME                                                   |
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Contributed by: USDA NRCS National Plant Data Center

![](media/image2.jpeg){width="2.9993055555555554in"
height="1.9236111111111112in"}East Stroudsburg University of
Pennsylvania

**Caution**: Eggplant leaves are toxic and should only be used
externally.

##### Alternate Names {#alternate-names .Header-3}

Aubergine, birenghenas (Chamorro), brinjal, paegani (Tuvalu), gaigani,
jiloeiro, melongene,melanzana, baigan, gilo', berenjena, badinjan,
Italian eggplant, pea apple, sasumber, terong, garden egg, mad apple

##### Uses {#uses .Header-3}

*Human Food*: Eggplant fruit is usually baked, sautéed, stuffed, cut
into strips or cubes and fried. It can be baked, stewed, fried, or added
to soups, curries etc. It is a good source of vitamin C and potassium.
Expansive information is available through the links for this species on
its PLANTS Plant Profile.

*Ethnobotanic*: It has been used as an antidote to poisonous mushrooms
(Duke & Ayensu 1985). It is bruised with vinegar and has been used as a
poultice for cracked nipples, abscesses and hemorrhoids.

The leaves are narcotic and toxic. A decoction is applied to discharging
sores and internal hemorrhages. A soothing and emollient poultice for
the treatment of burns, abscesses, cold sores and similar conditions can
be made from the leaves.\
\
The ashes of the peduncle are used in the treatment of intestinal
hemorrhages, piles and toothache. A decoction of the root is an
astringent.

### 

### The fruit helps to lower blood cholesterol levels and is suitable as part of a diet to help regulate high blood pressure (Chiej 1984).

##### Status {#status .Header-3}

Please consult the PLANTS Web site and your State Department of Natural
Resources for this plant's current status (e.g. threatened or endangered
species, state noxious status, and wetland indicator values).

#####  {#section-1 .Header-3}

##### Description {#description .Header-3}

*General*: Eggplant is an annual in temperate zones and perennial in the
tropics. This plant is a warm-season frost-tender perennial that can be
grown as an annual. Eggplants usually grow from 2-4 feet tall with many
branches and large, rangy leaves. Eggplant leaves are, alternate and
lobed, with the underside of most cultivars covered with dense wool-like
hairs. The flowers are violet-colored, star-shaped, and bloom either as
a solitary or in clusters of two or more. These characteristics give the
plant an ornamental look.

![](media/image3.jpeg){width="2.263888888888889in"
height="3.4583333333333335in"}

Peggy Greb, Courtesy of USDA ARS

The fruit can vary in shape from oval to round and long to oblong. Most
growers and consumer are accustom to seeing the mature fruit that is
shiny purplish black, oval or pear shape. However, the mature fruit can
be red, yellowish-white, or green.

The purplish black eggplants can be bitter with thick tough skins and
fibrous flesh or mild-sweet with thin tender skin and non-fibrous flesh.
The white skin eggplant is firmer, drier and milder tasting but has a
very thick skin that must be peeled prior to eating.

*Distribution*: For current distribution, please consult the Plant
Profile page for this species on the PLANTS Web site.

##### Establishment {#establishment .Header-3}

Normally, transplants are used to establish eggplants in the field.
Seeds germinate in 5 days at 86 degrees F, but may require up to 13 days
at 68 degrees F. Transplants require 6 to 8 weeks growth at daytime
temperatures of 70 to 80 degrees F and night time temperatures of 65 to
70 degrees F to be ready for field planting after all danger of frost is
past.

Careful watering is necessary at the time of transplanting because
transplants are very sensitive to water stress. Plants are typically
established in 30-to-36-inch rows with 18 to 24 inches between plants.

Eggplant transplants are very responsive to the use of black plastic
mulch and drip irrigation. This process provides warmer soil
temperatures in the spring, protection from weeds, and consistent water
availability. This plastic mulch along with irrigation will allow
growers to grow double rows of eggplant within the same row.

Eggplant grown from seed in small farms should be seeded 4 to 6 weeks
before the plants are to be set out. Commercial mixtures for starting
seeds are available. Seeds are planted by placing 2 seeds per inch in
rows 4-6 inches apart a depth of 1/2 inch in a medium that is kept moist
and at a temperature of 75° to 85 °F. Be sure the soil does not dry out
during the germination period. Once the seeds germinate keep the soil
moist to the touch. Over watering will cause damping-off.

##### Management {#management .Header-3}

Small producer and gardeners find it more convenient to buy their
eggplants as transplants rather than to grow their own from seed due to
insufficient space, inadequate growing conditions, lack of time, or
because they only need a few plants. On the other hand, some varieties
are not locally available as transplants so one has no choice but to
grow their own from seed.

## *Transplanting*: When purchasing transplants, select those that are sturdy, dark green in color and not yet in bloom. Leaves should be fully expanded and free of diseases and insects. Transplants grown in individual containers may cost more, but are usually worth the added expense, because their roots are disturbed less when they are transplanted in the field. 

Transplant young seedlings into growing containers when the stems have
straightened and the first true leaves have opened. This is usually 15
to 20 days after the seed was sown, but may be longer at lower
temperatures. The young plants should be exposed to full sunlight if
possible. The best temperatures for growing transplants are from 65° to
75°F during the day and 60° to 70°F at night. Growing the young
transplants in a hot bed or cold frame works well.

## Hardening off the plants enables them to withstand the planting shock. Start the hardening off process 10 days to 2 weeks before planting them in the garden. Begin by moving the plants in their containers outdoors to a shady spot (a cold frame works well for this purpose). Move the plants into sunlight for short periods each day, increasing the length of exposure gradually. Reduce the watering frequency to slow growth, but don\'t allow the plants to wilt. Don\'t put tender seedlings outdoors on windy days. Once the plants are hardened off and the danger of a frost is passed, they can be planted in the field.

## *Planting*: The eggplant is a warm season crop and is very tender to frost. It can even be injured by periods of cold temperature above freezing, and is more sensitive to low temperatures than either tomatoes or peppers. The plants are usually set 2 to 3 feet apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart and in full sun. 

*Site preparation*: Till soil to a depth of 6-10 inches to allow for
root development. In areas that have compacted soil till or subsoil to a
depth of 18 to 24 inches to destroy the hard pan. Growers with small
plot can prepare the soil with the use of a tiller or by spading. Soil
preparation should be preformed in the fall after the harvest season or
in the spring before planting. Soil should not be worked while it is
wet.

Plant eggplant in the full sun. Those growing in partial shade will
produce less than optimum yields and will take longer for the fruit to
ripen. These young seedlings will perform better with protection from
the wind. The site should have fertile, well drained soil. If possible,
avoid planting where eggplant, tomatoes, potatoes, or peppers were
planted the previous year. All of these can be susceptible to and harbor
similar disease problems.

Eggplant is a heavy feeder and therefore may need extra fertilizer for a
good crop. A soil test may be necessary to determine the fertility of
your soil. If no soil test, apply 2 to 3 lbs of a complete fertilizer
(i.e. 10-10-10, 6-12-12, or 9-16-16) per 100 feet of row. This
application should be completed in two separate operations by
incorporating one half of the fertilizer at the time of planting and the
remaining fertilizer after the first fruit appears. Some soils may
require a ¼ cup of starter fertilizer (high in phosphorus) solution be
poured around each newly transplanted seedling to help stimulate growth.
A side dressing of ¼ cup of fertilizer incorporated in a 2-foot circle
around the base of the plant immediately after flowering will be
beneficial on soils low in nitrogen. Do not over-fertilize.

## *Watering*: Eggplant need generous moisture at all times. One inch of water each week is a minimum. This may vary, however, due to air temperature, wind, soil type, rainfall, and whether or not a mulch is used. 

Sandy soils require more frequent watering. Heavy soakings at weekly
intervals are better than many light soakings as light, frequent
watering promote shallow root systems. Mulching will reduce water loss
from the soil.

Mulches help keep weeds down, reduce water loss and stabilize soil
temperatures. Inorganic mulches, such as polyethylene and aluminum, are
available in many farm and garden stores. Organic mulches, such as
straw, leaves or grass clippings, can also be used. Organic mulches
should be at least 2 inches, and preferably 3 to 4 inches, deep.
Mulching too early in the season with organic mulches will keep the soil
cool, resulting in slow growth, poor fruit set, and shallow rooting.
When mulches are used all fertilizer and drip irrigation must be applied
before applying the mulch unless fertigation is practiced.

## *Weed Control*: Weeds compete with eggplant for sunlight, nutrients and water. In small plantings, weeds are best controlled with cultivation or mulches; however in large plantings, herbicides can be used. 

## *Harvesting*: Eggplant fruits are harvested from the time they are one-third grown to full size. However, removing the fruit before the flesh becomes soft and the seeds begin to harden. Over-mature fruits that have passed the prime stage for eating become spongy, the seeds harden and darken, and the fruit surface becomes dull. Fruits can be snapped from the plant, but less damage usually occurs if they are clipped with a sharp knife or scissors. The short stem that attaches the fruit to the stalk is often covered with sharp spines so gloves may be necessary when harvesting. The harvested fruits are delicate; be careful when handling them. 

Staking may be necessary later in the season as the number and size of
the fruit increase. Rain, wind and irrigation can cause the branches to
break or droop. Fruit touching the ground may spoil.

##### Pests and Potential Problems {#pests-and-potential-problems .Header-3}

Eggplant are subject to a number of problems, including diseases,
insects and those brought on by weather and other environmental factors.

Diseases of eggplant include seed rot, damping-off, anthracnose, late
blight, alternaria leaf spot and verticillium wilt. Seed treatment and
proper growing conditions can reduce seed rot and damping-off.
Verticillium wilt is best controlled by long term rotations with
non-related crops that are not susceptible to wilt, and by planting in
well-drained soil.

Insects can also cause damage to eggplant. Cutworms may feed on new
leaves or cut stems on small plants. Spider mites can be a problem
during hot weather. Flea beetles, which chew small holes in the leaves
of eggplant, can be severe in some years. The Colorado potato beetle can
also cause severe damage if left uncontrolled.

##### Cultivars, Improved, and Selected Materials (and area of origin) {#cultivars-improved-and-selected-materials-and-area-of-origin .Header-3}

'Nitta/Molokai' hybrid is a popular eggplant (*Solanum melongena*) that
is grown on Guam. The Department of Horticulture of University of Hawaii
released the cultivar in 1995. The hybrid produces high quality fruits
with long fruit length, deep maroon color, and longer shelf life.

Please contact your local agricultural extension specialist for advice
on cultivars for your area. Also, check the links at the bottom of the
PLANTS Plant Profile for this species.

Contact your local Natural Resources Conservation Service (formerly Soil
Conservation Service) office for more information. Look in the phone
book under "United States Government." The Natural Resources
Conservation Service will be listed under the subheading "Department of
Agriculture."

##### References {#references .Header-3}

##### Burrows, G.E. & R.J. Tyrl. 2001. *Toxic plants of North America*. Iowa State University Press, Ames. {#burrows-g.e.-r.j.-tyrl.-2001.-toxic-plants-of-north-america.-iowa-state-university-press-ames. .Header-3}

#####  {#section-2 .Header-3}

##### Chevallier. A. 1996. ***The encyclopedia of medicinal plants.*** Dorling Kindersley, London. {#chevallier.-a.-1996.-the-encyclopedia-of-medicinal-plants.-dorling-kindersley-london. .Header-3}

#####  {#section-3 .Header-3}

Chittendon, F. 1956. *RHS dictionary of plants plus Supplement.* Oxford
University Press, UK.

Chiej. R. 1984. *Encyclopaedia of Medicinal Plants.* MacDonald,
Edinburgh.

Duke. J. A. and Ayensu. E. S. 1985. *Medicinal plants of China.*
Reference Publications, Inc., Algonac, Michigan.

Duke, J.A. 2007. Dr. Duke's phytochemical and ethnobotanical database.
USDA ARS GRIN, Beltsville, Maryland. Accessed: 070214.
\<http://www.ars-grin.gov/duke/\>

Huxley. A. 1992. *The new RHS dictionary of gardening.* MacMillan Press,
UK.

Plants for a Future. 2007*. Solanum melongena L*. Accessed: 070214.
\<http://www.pfaf.org/database/plants.php?Solanum+melongena\>

USDA NRCS. 2007. *PLANTS database*. Accessed: 070214. National Plant
Data Center, Baton Rouge, Louisiana. http://plants.usda.gov.

##### Prepared By {#prepared-by .Header-3}

*Lincoln Moore*, Formerly USDA NRCS NPDC, Baton Rouge, Louisiana

##### Species Coordinator {#species-coordinator .Header-3}

*Lincoln Moore*, Formerly USDA NRCS NPDC, Baton Rouge, Louisiana

##### Edited: 070214 jsp {#edited-070214-jsp .Header-4}

For more information about this and other plants, please contact your
local NRCS field office or Conservation District, and visit the PLANTS
Web site\<[http://plants.usda.gov](http://plants.usda.gov/)\> or the
Plant Materials Program Web site
\<[http://Plant-Materials.nrcs.usda.gov](http://Plant-Materials.nrcs.usda.gov/)\>

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