BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
If the forced swarm could now be put on the old stand, and the parent-hire removed to a new place in the Apiary; or if the latter could be returned to its usual position, and the former be put somewhere else, it would simplify very much the making of artificial swarms. Neither method, however, can be pursued without serious loss; for if the position of a colony has been changed by _the beekeeper_, the bees will not adhere to the new place, as they do when they swarm of their _oven accord_.
In every case when the position of its hive has been changed, each bee, as it sallies out, flies with its head turned towards it, that by marking the surrounding objects, it may find its way back. If, however, the bees did not emigrate of their _oven free villy_, most of them appearing to forget that their location has been changed, return to the familiar spot; for it would seem that,
"A 'bee removed' against its will,
Is of the same opinion still."
Should the Apiarian, ignorant of this fact, place the forced swarm on the old stand, and remove the _parent-stock_ to a new place, the latter would lose so many of the bees which ought to be retained in it, that most of its unsealed brood would perish from neglect. If, on the contrary, he should remove the _forced swarm_ to a _new_ position, it would be so depopulated as to be of little value,These difficulties may be obviated by removing either colony about half a mile from its former home, in which case, if forage is abundant, nearly all will remain in their proper hive. Some recommend that they should be carried off at least three miles ; but I have found that this is unneecessary, unless there is a deficiency of blossoms in the immediate vicinity of their new home. If the colonies are carried off, the precautions given elsewhere* for moving bees must be carefully followed ; also the directions for retaining a sufficient number of bees in the parent-stock. Those not carried off must be put on their old stands.
As the transportation of colonies is laborious, and oftentimes expensive, I shall describe the methods which, after years of experimenting, I have devised for dispensing with it. I have ascertained that, if a hive is removed, most of the bees returning from abroad and alighting upon a neighboring hive, if kindly received, will not go back to their former stand. Even the _temporary_ loss of their old home is followed by a distraction which makes on them such a permanent impression, that they mark their new location as carefully as a new swarm. Now I find that, on the same principle, nearly all the bees which have returned from the fields, while a swarm is being forced from the parent-hive, will enter this hive if it is put upon its old stand, and adhere to it afterwards wherever it may be placed.
As soon, therefore, as the bee-keeper has forced a swarm, the forcing-box must be gently lifted off, and set in a shady place where the bees will have plenty of air. The parent-stock should now be put, without crushing any bees, on the old stand, so that all which have returned from foraging may enter it. The bees, which before this were running in and out of the decoy-hive, in a state of the greatest distraction, will crowd into their old home, and afterwards adhere to it wherever placed! It should now be removed to a new stand, and its entrance* closed until sunset. Unless this precaution is adopted, the bees in other hives, ascertaining its weak and queenless condition, may attempt to rob it.
If the stock from which the artificial colony was driven, were intending to swarm, it will contain maturing queens, one of which will soon take the place of the old one, as in natural swarming. If no royal cells were in progress, the bees will proceed to construct them.
Artificial colonies should not be formed until drones have made their appearance, or the young queen may fail to be impregnated, and the parent-stock may perish.
We return now to our forced swarm. The bees should be shaken out of the forcing-box, and hired like a new swarm, when, if placed on their old stand, they will work as vigorously as a natural swarm. If they were driven, at first, into a hive which will suit the Apiarian, it may be returned to their old location, without disturbing the bees.
If, in driving the swarm, or in transferring it from the forcing-box, the queen was not _seen_, it may be certainly known, in from five to fifteen minutes after the bees have entered their new hive, whether or not she is with them.
If the parent-stock stands at some distance from others, and resembles in shape, size, and color, that intended for the forced swarm, a proper division of the bees may be effected as follows: Place the parent-stock about six inches to the right of the old stand, and the forced swarm as far to the left; so that the position of the old entrance shall be about equally distant from each. If either colony contains too few bees, it may be moved a little nearer to the old entrance; or it may be reinforced, after the bees have gone to work, by closing the entrance of the stronger hive until dark.
If the old stocks stand close together, some prefer another mode of forming the artificial swarm. After the bees have been driven from the parent-stock, the forced swarm is at once placed on the old stand, while the parent-stock in which the proper number of bees has been left, is set in a cool place, and shut up--care being taken to give them air--until late in the afternoon of the third day. It may now be put on its permanent stand, and opened an hour or two before sunset, when the bees will take wing almost as if intending to swarm. Some will join the forced swarm on the old stand, but most, after hovering a short time in the air, will re-enter their hive. While the entrance was closed, thousands of young bees were hatched, and these, knowing no other home, will all unite in the laboratory of the hive. The imprisoned bees ought to be supplied with water, to enable them to prepare food for the larvae. In the common hive this may be injected with a straw through a glimlet-hole.
Where artificial swarming is practiced on a large scale, I have devised a plan which I very much prefer to any previously described. Let the Ariarian obtain a forced swarm1 from some bee-keeper, a mile or two off, or from one of his own stocks, carried that distance before the bees began to work in the Spring. Bringing it home, according to the directions subsequently given for transporting bees, let it be confined in a cool place, so as to have plenty of air. Late in the afternoon, or early next morning, let him force four or five! swarms, placing them, at once, on the stands of the parent-stocks, and these latter where it is intended they shall permanently remain. The forced swarm, brought from a distance, should now be shaken out on a sheet, a foot or more from a hive, and gently sprinkled, so as to prevent any bees from taking wing. With a saucer, seoop up, without hurting any of them, as many bees as you can, and carry them to the mouth of one of the old stocks, from which you have driven a swarm. Continue to do this, until you have about equally apportioned the bees, and if any remain on the sheet, carry it to the mouth of the hive which has received the least.2 These bees, having no previous home in your Apiary, will adhere to the different hives in which they are placed, and thus,without any further trouble, your parent-stocks and forced swarms will alike prosper.
One great advantage which this method has over all others, is, that it secures, so simply and effectually, the necessary number of bees for the parent-stocks. Inexperienced persons, instead of being perplexed to know how many bees they shall leave in the forced stocks, may drive from them, if they can, every bee. If the bee-keeper cannot conveniently obtain a swarm from a distance, he may use, for this purpose, the first natural swarm which comes off in his own Aplary ; and by delaying to make artificial colonies until natural swarms begin to issue, every such swarm may be used for forming at least four artificial swarms. Or, by the method recommended by Dr. Donhoff, of Germany, he may secure a colony, which, when divided in the way above mentioned, will adhere to their new locations ; On an evening, when the next day promises to be clear and warm, drive out a swarm, and set it in the place of the parent-stock. Next day, when it is warm, pour some honey among the bees in the box, and in a few hours they will swarm."
The directions given for the formation of artificial colonies, differ, in some important respects, from any furnished by other writers, and are so simple that any one accustomed to handle bees can easily follow them. They enable the Apiarian, let him use what hive he will, to be entirely independent of natural swarming.
It will be obvious, however, that artificial swarming, to be successful, requires a knowledge of the laws which control the breeding of bees. Those, therefore, who are ignorant of the economy of the bee-hive, cannot safely depart from the old-fashioned mode of management; as emergencies which they are unprepared to meet, may at any moment occur. An Apiarian may use the common hives1 a whole life-time, and, unless he gains his information from other sources, may yet remain ignorant of some of the most important principles in the physiology of the honey-bee; while any intelligent cultivator may, with movable-combs, in a single season, verify for himself the discoveries which have been made only by the accumulated toll of many observers, for more than two thousand years.
Footnote 1: The idea of the existence of a swarming is that the swarming is not a swarming, but it is not a swarming, but it is not a swarming.
By the aid of movable-comb hives, artificial swarming may be easily and quickly performed. An empty hive, with its frames properly arranged, must be in readiness to receive the new swarm; and before carrying the parent-stock from its stand, a little smoke should be puffed into the entrance, which should then be closed with the movable-blocks. Remove, now, one or two of the tins that cover the holes on the spare honey-board (PI. VIII, Fig. 21), and blow smoke into the hive, until the bees begin to make a loud humming, when the honey-board may be loosened with a knife, and safely removed, care being taken to set it on its edge, so as not to crush the bees with which its under surface is usually covered. No danger need be apprehended from these bees, as they are completely bewildered by their sudden exposure to the light, and removal from the hive. Any of the large "_superg_" used in my hives, or any other box of suitable dimensions, may now be set over the bees, into which they may be driven, in the way described on page 2.1. A little more smoke blown into the entrance of the hive, will obviate the necessity of much rapping, and materially quieken the ascent of the bees. After they have been driven from the parent-stock, the directions must be followed which have already been so minutely described.
Whenever the bee-keeper learns how to handle safely the movable-frames--full directions for doing which will soon be given--he may dispense with the forcing-box, and make his swarms by lifting out the frames from the parent-stock, and shaking the bees from them, by a quick jerking motion, upon a sheet, directly in front of the new hive. As soon as a comb is deprived of its bees, it should be returned to the parent-stock. If one or two combs contain ing brood, eggs, and stores, are given to the forced swarm, it will be much encouraged, and will need no feeding, if the weather should be unfavorable. In removing the frames, the bee-keeper should look for the queen, and give the comb on which she is, to the forced swarm, without shaking off the bees. If he does not see her on the combs, he will seldom fail to notice her, after a little practice, as she is shaken on the sheet, and crawls towards the new hive. The queen is seldom left on a frame after it has been shaken so that most of the bees fall off. \(\Delta\)s soon as the necessary number of bees have been transferred to the new hive, the precautions previously given must be used to obtain adhering bees for the parent-stock.
If the proper allowance of bees is secured for the parent-stock by the method described on page 162, the hive for the forced swarm may be placed at once on the old stand, and the bees from the parent-stock shaken from the frames upon a sheet, so placed that they can easily run into their new hive.
If the forced swarms were made a short time before natural swarming would have taken place, some of the parent-stocks will contain a number of maturing queens, which may be removed, a few days before hatching, and given to such as have started none.
By making a few forced swarms, about a week or ten days before the time in which the most are to be made, there will be an abundance of sealed queens, almost mature, so that every parent-stock may have one. If an un-hatched queen can be given, on her frame, to each stock that needs it, so much the better; but if there are not enough frames with sealed queens, while some contain two or more, the bee-keeper must proceed as follows:
With a sharp pen-knife, carefully remove a piece of comb, an inch or more square, that contains a queen-cell; and in one of the combs of the hive to which this cell is to be given, cut a place just large enough to receive and hold it in a natural position. If it is not secure, apply, with a feather, a little melted wax, where the edges meet, and the bees will soon fasten it to suit themselves.
Unless very great care is used in transferring a royal cell, its innate will be destroyed, as her body, until she is nearly mature, is so exceedingly soft, that a slight compression of her cell--especially near the base, where there is no ceocoon--generally proves fatal. For this reason, it is best to defer removing them, until they are within three or four days of hatching. A queen-cell, nearly mature, may be known by its having the wax removed from the lid, by the bees, so as to give it a _frozen_ appearance.
The forcing of a swarm ought not to be attempted when the weather is so cool as to ehill the brood; and never unless there is sufficient light not only to enable the.Apiarian to see distinctly, but for the bees that take wing to direct their flight to the entrance of their hive. Bees are always much more irascible when their hives are disturbed after it is dark, and as they cannot see where to fly, they will alight on the person of the bee-keeper, who will be almost sure to be stung. It is seldom that nightwork is attempted upon bees, without the operator having occasion to repeat his folly. If the weather is not too cool, early in the morning, before the bees are stirring, is the best time for most operations, as there will then be the least danger of annoyance from robber-bees.
To some of my readers, it may appear almost incredible that bees can be dealt with in the summary ways that have been described, without becoming greatly enraged; so far, however, is this from being the case, that in my operations, I often use neither smoke, sugar-water, nor bee-dress, although I by no means advise the neglect of such precautions. While the timid, if unprotected, are almost sure to be stung, there is something in the determined aspect and movements of a courageous and skillful operator, that seems often to strike bees with instant terror, so that they become perfectly submissive to his will. Artificial swarms may be created with perfect safety, even at mid-day, as the thousands of bees returning with their loads, never make an attack, while those at home can be easily specified.
The arrangement which permits the _top_ of the movable-comb hive to be easily removed, and the sugar-water to be sprinkled upon the bees, before they attempt to take wing, has great advantages. If the hive opened on the side, like Dierzon's, it would be impossible to make the sweetened water run down between all the ranges of comb, and it would be necessary to use smoke* in every operation. The use of smoke frequently causes the queen to leave the combs, for greater security. This often causes great delay in the formation of artificial swarms by removing the frames, and in operations where it is desirable to catch the queen, or to examine her upon the comb.
Footnote *: After using smoke sometimes two or three times a day, to open a hive upon which I was experimenting, I found that, at last, the running creatures, instead of filling themselves with honey, raised out to attack me! A colony will never refuse the sweetened water, however often it may be presented to them.
Huber thus speaks of the pacific effect produced * upon the bees by the use of his leaf-hive : **On opening the hive, no stings are to be dreaded, for one of the most singular and valuable properties attending my construction, is its rendering the bees tractable. I ascribe their tranquillity to the manner in which they are affected by the sudden admission of light ; they appear rather to testify fear than anger. Many retire, and entering the cells, seem to conceal themselves.* Huber has here fallen Figure 47: Plate XIV.
into an error which he probably would not have made, had he used his own eyes. The bees are, indeed, bewildered by the sudden admission of light, and will enter the cells, unless provoked by a sudden jar, or the breath of the operator; not, however, " to conceal themselves;" but imagining that their sweets, thus unceremoniously exposed, are to be taken from them, they gorge themselves almost to bursting, to save what they can. They will always appropriate the contents of the open cells, as soon as their frames are removed from the hive.
It is not merely the _sudden_ admission of light, but its introduction from an _unexpected quarter_, that for the time disarma the hostility of the bees. They appear, for a few moments, almost as much confounded as a man would be, if, without any warning, the roof and ceiling of his house should suddenly be torn from over his head. Before they recover from their amazment, the sweet libration* is poured upon them, and their surprise is quickly changed into pleasure; or they are saluted with a puff of smoke, which, by alarming them for the safety of their treasures, induces them to snatch whatever they can. In the working season, the bees near the _top_ are gorged with honey; and those coming from _below_ are met in their threatening ascent, either by an avalanche of nectar, which, like "a soft answer," most effectually."4 turneth away wrath," or a harmless smoke, which excites their fears, but leaves no unpleasant smell behind. No genuine lover of bees ought ever to use the sickening fumes of tobacco.
Footnote *: If, when the hive is first opened, honey-water is used, instead of sugar-water or smoke, in sprinkling the bees, it smell will be very apt to entice marundens from other loven. When the honey-harvest is abundantand this is the best time for breeding warrantbests are seldom inclined to rob, if proper presentations are used. It is sometimes difficult to induce them to notice honey-counbs, even when put in an exposed distribution.
The greatest care should be taken to repress, by the sweetened water or smoke, the _first_ manifestations of anger; for as bees communicate their sensations to each other with almost magic celerity; while a whole colony will quickly catch the pleased or subdued notes uttered by a few, it will be roused to instant fury by the shrill note of anger from a single bee. When once they are thoroughly excited, it will be found very difficult to subdue them, and the unfortunate operator, if inexperienced, will often abandon the attempt in despair.
It cannot be too deeply impressed upon the beginner, that nothing irritates bees more than breathing upon them or jarring their combs. Every motion should be deliberate, and no attempt whatever made to strike at them. If inclined to be cross, they will often resent even a quick _pointing_ at them with the finger, by darting upon it, and leaving their stings behind. A novice, or a person liable to be stung, will, of course, protect his face and hands.
Directions have been given (p. 165), for removing the spare honey-board from the hive. As soon as it is disposed of, the Apitarian should sprinkle the bees with the sweet solution. This should descend from the watering-pot in a fine stream, so as not to _drench_ the bees, and should fall upon the _top_ of the frames, as well as between the ranges of comb. The bees, accepting the proffered treat, will begin to lap it up, as peaseably as so many chickens helping themselves to corn. While they are thus engaged, the frames which have been glued fast to the rabbets by the bees, must be very gently pried loose; this may be done without any serious jar, and without wounding or enraging a single bee; the rabbets being wide enough to allow the frames to be pried from the _rear_ to the _front_, or _vice versa_. If the rabbets were only just wide enough to receive the shoulders of the frames,it would be necessary, in loosening the frames, to try them laterally, or _towards_ each other, by which they might be brought so close together, as to crush the bees, injure the brood, disfigure the combs, or even kill the queen.
The frames may be all loosened for removal in less than a minute:* by this time the sprinkled bees will have filled themselves, or if all have not, the intelligence that sweets have been furnished, will diffuse an unusual good nature through the honied realm. The Aparian should now _geently_ push the third frame from either end of the hive, a little nearer to the fourthframe; and then the second as near as he can to the third, to get ample room to lift out the end one, without crushing its comb, or injuring any of the bees. To remove it, he should take hold of its two shoulders which rest upon the rabbets, and carefully lift it, so as to crush no bees by letting it touch the sides of the hive, or the next frame. If it is desired to remove any particular frame, room must be gained by moving, in the same way, the adjoining ones on each side. As bees usually build their combs slightly waving, it will be found impossible to remove a frame safely, without making room for it in this way; and if the tops of the frames have not sufficient play on the rabbets, and between each other, the frames cannot be lifted out of the hive, without crushing the combs, and killing the bees. In handling the frames, be careful not to incline them from their _perpendicular_, or the combs will be liable to break from their own weight, and fall out of the frames.
Footnote *: Without smoke or sweetened water, ten minutes may be spent in opening and shutting a single frame in a Huber-hive, and even then some of the bees will probably be crushed. The great caution recommended by Huber in opening his hive, shows that he did not know how to make himself independent of the anger of the bees.
If more combs are to be examined, after lifting out the outside frame, set it carefully on end, near the hive,* when the second one may be easily moved towards the vacant space, and lifted out. After examination, put it in the place of the one first removed; in the same way, examine the third, and put it in place of the second, and so proceed until all have been examined. If the bees are to be removed, they must, of course, be shaken off on a sheet, as previously described. If the comb first taken out will fit, it may be put in the place of that last taken out; if it will not fit, and cannot be made to do so by a little trimming, the frames must be slid on the rabbits back to their former places, when this first comb may be returned to its old position.
Footnote *: If the frames, as they are removed, are put into an empty hive, they may be protected from the cold, and from rubber-bees.
The inexperienced operator, who sees that the bees have built some small pieces of comb between the outside of the frames, and the sides of the hive, or slightly fastened together some parts of their combs, may imagine that the frames cannot be removed at all. Such slight attachments, however, offer no practical difficulty to their removal.! The great point to be gained, is to secure a single comb on each frame; and this is effected by the use of the triangular comb-guides.