BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
In America, and, also, to some extent, in this country, a self-spacing frame, known as the "Hoffman," is very largely used ; but in districts where propolisis is abundant the bees glue the frames together to such an extent as to render a frame of this type a nuisance. Fig. 50 shows, in isometrical projection, a portion of two such frames. It may be said that the side bars are \(1^{\frac{9}{2}}_{\frac{9}{0}}\) in. wide at the top, and that the wide part on one side is reduced to a knife edge.
Broad-shouldered frames being self-spacing, the plain frames are the only ones that require the addition of metal distance keepers, technically known as "ends." Priority of place must be given to the "W.B.C." end, the invention of Mr. W. Broughton Carr. It is shown by Fig. 5I, and is stamped out of a single piece of tinplate and pressed into shape by dies. Fig. 37 (p. 50) shows how these ends are used when the regulation \(1^{\frac{9}{2}}_{\frac{9}{0}}\)-in. spacing is adopted ; Fig. 38 (p. 50) shows how the ends are placed on the frames when \(1^{\frac{1}{4}}\)-in. spacing is required ; Fig. 52 shows a cast metal end somewhat largely used ; Fig. 53 shows the "Howard " end, made of tinplate ; and Fig. 54 shows Dr. Pine'scast metal end. There are probably more " W.B.C." ends used than all the others put together ; they are made both for $-in. and $-in. top bars, and a special wide end is also made--for $-in. top bars only--for fitting to extracting combs, eight of the wide ends occupying the space of ten of the ordinary pattern. They can be obtained in two widths, 1\(\frac{1}{2}\) in. bare for the brood chamber and 1\(\frac{3}{4}\) in. for the shallow-frame supers. When using 1\(\frac{3}{4}\)-in. ends in the supers it is a good plan to use "drone " foundation.
Whilst upon the subject of spacing frames, mention may also be made of end spacing. If hives are made according to instructions given in
Chapters II. and III., end-spacing appliances are not necessary, as the top bars being cut accurately to length, make a perfect fit with the hives, and no end-shake will be possible. But in roughly made hives some means to counteract any inaccuracy in construction will be necessary, and it will be noticed in Figs. 52 and 54 that each end also has an angular spur on the underside, the spur allowing the regulation \(\frac{1}{4}\)-in. spacing between the hive wall and the frame end.
For use with the ends illustrated by Figs. 51 and 53, and also with the Hoffman self-spacing frames (Fig. 50), a method of end spacing is shown in Fig. 55, a small staple being driven in each side bar under the lug so as to project $ in. The same plan is adopted for bottom spacing, as shown in the same figure, this provision being made for the purpose of ensuring that bees--the queen especially--shall not be injured by being squeezed between the hive side and the frame when the combs are being withdrawn or replaced.
As bees build their combs about an inch in thickness, there is, nominally, a space of \(\frac{1}{2}\) in. between the faces of capped brood on two adjacent combs. As the outside face of each outside comb only gets, under ordinary circumstances, half of this working space, two plain strips of wood (see PS, Fig. 17,
p. 31) \(\lx@sectionsign\) in. by \(\frac{1}{2}\) in. in section are used in order to increase the distance between each outer comb and the hive side or the "dummy " (p s, same reference).
A dummy is a cleated or clamped board which fits the inside of the hive, and has a top bar, by means of which it can be suspended in the same way as a frame. Its use is to contract the brood nest when it is desired to give the bees a lesser number of frames than the hive provides accommodation for; and in the hive described in Chapter III, a pair of cleated dummies is used to make
Figure 55: Staples used as End Spacers.
the hive double-walled at the sides when ten or a lesser number of frames are in use. The sizes figured on Fig. 56 are for the above-mentioned hive, although dummies of this size will be equally serviceable in any other hive made to take " standard " frames, as long as the thickness is not greater than accommodation can be found for.
Fig. 57 shows this dummy in part section, and by the dimensions given in Figs. 56 and 57 it will be seen that its total thickness is 1 in. ; consequently ten frames (14\(\natural\) in.), two spacing slips (\(\natural\) in.), and two dummies (\(\natural\) in.) exactly occupy the space provided in the hive described in Chapter III.--namely 17 in. The dummy should be an easy fit inside the hive, and its dimensions should be 14\(\natural\) in. (bare) long and 8\(\natural\) in. (bare)
Figure 56: **Back View of Dummy.**
over the brood nest. This can be obtained in sheets 16 in. square, and is best laid over the frames without being fitted into a light wooden frame as used to be the custom. (This old style is shown by Fig. 59.)
Qulits are necessary for covering the frames, and for this nothing is better than a square piece of American cloth of good thickness laid on with the painted side downwards. Sheets of celluloid can be obtained for the purpose, through which the bees can be seen at work ; they are very good, but rather expensive. Over the first quit a number of thicknesses of carpet or sacking of some kind should be placed to keep up the warmth of the hive, and for this woollen material is the best, but it harbours moths, and for this reason sacking or cotton material is often preferred.
For marketing honey in the comb, sections (Fig. 60) are used. These are wooden boxes, generally 4\(\frac{1}{4}\) in. by 4\(\frac{1}{4}\) in. by 2 in., made of thin bass-wood, and they each hold just a pound of comb honey. Larger sizes can be obtained. The wood for making them ready prepared
Figure 61: Section before Folding.
Figure 60: Section with Foundation.
position at d, but if good results are expected, zinc or wood dividers (Fig. 65) should be placed between the sections, six being used in each crate.
When the sections are placed in the crate, a follower e (Fig. 63) is required to keep them in position. This consists of a piece of \(\$\)-in. deal 1 ft. \(0^{3}_{4}\) in. long by 41 in. wide, placed in the position shown and forced against the sections by means of a spring, slipped in at F, or a cork cut to length will serve the purpose. A couple of blocks g (Fig. 62) are nailed on at the ends for lifting the crate off the hive.
The following information on stocking a hive is_of general application, but also refers particularly to the simple hive described in Chapter I., and illustrated by Figs. 1 and 2 (pp. 12 and 13):--
First fill the lower portion of the hive, or body box, with full sheets of brood foundation wired into the frames. Eight or nine frames will be required if stocking with driven bees during the autumn. About 5 lb. of driven bees, costing about 6s. 6d., will be necessary. If possible, obtain the bees from a dealer in direct railway communication, or delay or knocking about will have killed them before they arrive. Shake them out of the box on to the frames, and cover with a piece of American cloth, in the centre of which a hole is cut.
Previous to the arrival of the bees, have prepared a quantity of feeding syrup made by boiling 4 lb. of sugar in a quar desert spoonful of salt and the same quantity of vinegar have been added. Stir the syrup whilst on the fire, and do not let it burn. Boil for three or four minutes. Place the syrup in a large glass jar, tie a piece of open textured calico over the mouth, and invert it over the hole in the quit on the frames, when the bees will suck it down. When the jar is empty, slide a piece of tin underneath, or smoke the bees down, and take it off, refill; and replace. From 20 lb. to 25 lb. of syrup must be fed to the bees to enable them to live through the winter, and all feeding must be completed by the end of September. When the feeding is finished, remove the frames not covered by bees, close up the dummy to the side of the frames, and cover up warmly till the spring.
Another method of stocking is to buy in the spring a straw hive containing a good stock of bees ; place this on the top of the frames, of which ten should be used, all filled with full sheets of foundation. Close all openings at the top to make the bees work through the proper hive entrance, and by the autumn the bees will have transferred the breeding place to the frames, and the straw skep filled with honey can be removed. Still another method is to purchase a strong swarm of bees in May, but in this case honey is seldom taken the first year.
## Chapter VI
observatory BEHIVE FOR PERMANENT USE.
There are two kinds of observatory beehives. The hive seen at flower shows, in which from one to three frames of comb with bees are placed for a few days on exhibition, is not suitable as a permanent home for the bees, as sufficient heat cannot be maintained by them to hatch eggs and rear brood except under very favourable conditions. This form of hive is fully described in the next chapter.
The observatory hive forming the subject of this chapter is a permanent home for the bees, special provision being made for wintering, and tiering up in the summer for gathering surplus honey. Ten standard frames are used in the brood chamber, and at the sides are flaps which may be opened so that the bees may be observed through glass frames in the inner shell of the hive. The outer flaps must be kept closed except when the bees are examined, or, having great objections to light, they will cover the glass with propolisis; it is a good plan to place a cushion of some thick material between the flaps and the glass, especially in winter.
To make the observatory hive, first prepare pieces of red deal for the stand. Two side-pieces a (Fig. 66), 2 ft. 3 in. long by 21 in. by 11 in., and two cross-pieces b and c, 1 ft. 51 in. long by 21 in. by 11 in., will be required. Bevel off the front for the alighting board as shown, and mortise the cross-pieces into the sides.
For the floor-board, prepare a piece of pine 1 ft. 61 in. by 1 ft. 61 in. by 1 in. thick, and in this sink a recess 12 in. wide by 1 in. deep and sloping up
* 70_Beehives and Bee KEEPERS' APPLIANCES._
* barely 9 in. deep. On each of its four sides a square hole is cut as f for the reception of the inspection flaps, a bevelled rebate being prepared at the bottom of each to form a stop and keep out the wet, as shown in Figs. 66 to 68. Across the front and back two frames a (Fig. 66) with glass- are fixed so as to leave a distance of 1 ft. 21 in.
Figure 67: Half Cross Section and Half Back Elevation of Observatory Beehive.
A porch at the front of the hive to protect the bees when returning home in wet weather, and sliding shutters to regulate the size of the opening, the construction of which will be clear from Figs. 86 and 68, are shown. The porch should be fixed with screws so that it can be lowered in the winter and raised in the summer. The side flaps r should be clamped and attached by means of brass butt-hinges, and fastened at the bottom with small flush bolts ; or turn-buttons may be used if preferred.
Over the brood chamber a lift j is shown. This consists of a bottomless box made of 9-in. by 1-in. stuff, the inside dimensions being equal to the outside of the brood nest. The sides of this and the brood nest may be dovetailed together or lapped, or butt-jointed and nailed. It is a good plan to paint well all joints before putting them together. Three-eighths of an inch from the bottom of the lift a 1-in. by 1-in. strip is nailed on all round (see Fig. 66). In the summer the lift is used as shown in the illustrations, but in the winter it may be turned upside down to cover the flaps and keep out the wet. A further lift may be used in the summer if required for working for extracted honey, but it should be made with a plinth the same as the roof.
The construction of the roof will be clear on reference to the illustrations. A pair of cone beeescapes are fitted in the front to allow any bees that may get from under the quilt to escape. It is advisable to cover the roof with sheet zinc.
The interior fittings are shown in the sections (Figs. 66 and 67). In the brood chamber are ten frames of comb with W.B.C. ends. On each side of the set of frames dummies filled with glass are used, so that when the side flaps are open the combs can be seen. A section of one of the dummies is shown at the left of the frames in Fig. 67. In the winter two or more of the frames may be taken out and the dummies moved closer to the centre of the live and the space outside filled with some warm material.
The super over the brood chamber is made to take eight broad-shouldered frames or ten ordinary shallow frames. It consists of a box 14\(\frac{1}{2}\) in. by 15 in. by 6 in. deep, of 1-in. deal. The ends are \(\frac{1}{2}\) in. shallower than the sides at the top (Fig. 66), to allow for the shoulders of the frames, which are kept in position by a strip of wood nailed on outside, on which is tacked a piece of tin brought up flush with the top of the frames.
For the quit covering the frames a piece of American cloth should be used with the glazed side downwards, or a transparent celluloid quilt through which the bees can be seen at work may be used if preferred. Over this a piece of carpet or any thick, warm material such as sacking should be placed. Woolien material of any kind is not recommended for quilts, as it harbours moths, the warmth of the hive proving very attractive to these insects (see p. 64).
made first. This frame is shown in detail, with dimensions, by Fig. 73. The internal dimensions should be exactly followed, but the frame should be left a trifle full outside in order to facilitate the fitting to the case into which it is inserted, by taking shavings from each of the sides until an exact fit is obtained.
Figure 69: Observatory Beehive for Temporary Use.
The thickness of the frame should be 1\(\lx@sectionsign\) in. if the glass windows are fitted as shown by B (Figs. 69 to 71); but if the glass is to be fixed by a bead or strips of wood against the frame A, an increased thickness will be necessary. The top and bottom pieces of the inner frame are fastened at the corners by screws or nails as shown in Fig. 73. The notches in the side pieces are cut with a tenon saw and a chisel to a depth of 1\(\lx@math@degree\) in., just sufficient to
Figure 70: Vertical Cross Section of Observatory Beehive.
and case are jointed up.
It will be seen from Figs. 69 to 71 that the side pieces of the case fit close to the sides of the inner frame, but the top and bottom pieces F and E are clear by a space of about \(\$\) in. and \(\$\) in. respectively. The shape of the side pieces of the case G is seen in Fig. 69. The top piece F is fixed to the sides by dovetailing, or by nails or screws, and the bottom piece E slips into a groove cut in the side pieces.
The base H (Figs. 69 to 71), into which the lower ends of the side pieces are slightly sunk, is a flat board with a moulded or chamfered edge, supported on four edging pieces mitred together at the corners. The piece E is perforated with a number of \(\$\)-in. holes, which form a communication with
Figure 71: Horizontal Section of Observatory Beehive.
Figure 72: Sectional Plan of Observatory Beehive Top.
the window frame 1\(\lx@sectionsign\) in. broad, a small reduction in its internal breadth and depth being allowed to suit. On each side of the windows, and fixed to the case, are the strips r (Figs. 69 and 71), to which small catches, that secure the windows in their places, are screwed. Four shutters s (see also Fig. 70), hinged to the case, are provided to shut out the light as well as to retain heat. They are framed and filled in with a panel, and should be provided with a bolt at the top and bottom of one of the shutters, and a latch on the other. Some bee keepers recommend lining the inside of the shutters with felt or other heat-retaining material ; but as this hive is only for use in the warm season of the year, this is unnecessary.
The hive should be set up within doors ; a warm out-house or shed will do very well, or a room in a dwelling-house might be used for the purpose. A covered passage must be made through the wall to the outside for the bees. A small bracket landing place for the bees is shown by dotted lines close to the entrance l (Fig. 69).
In stocking an observatory hive of this kind, select three combs from the centre of a strong colony in a bar-frame hive containing plenty of brood in all stages from the egg upwards. Lift them out, and place one at a time into the unicomb hive with the bees clinging to them, taking care that the queen bee is also moved in. It is advisable that a large proportion of the bees to populate the observatory hive should be young ones that have not flown, otherwise there is great risk of depleting it, through the older bees going back to the hive from which they were taken. On this account it is preferable to operate on a fine, warm day, at a time when many of the older bees are out, and it is then a comparatively easy matter to take with a stiff feather or piece of card from several frames as many young bees (known by their lighter colour) as are required.
It is quite possible to succeed without taking the queen with the bees, if the combs contain
eggs, or larvae not more than three days old, from which the bees can raise a young queen, but in
Figure 74: Mounting Observatory Beehive on Brackets with Pivots.
Figure 75: **Mounting Observatory Beehive on Feet with Pivot.**
#### 6.2.2 \(O_{SERVATORY\ BERNIVE\ FOR TEMPORARY\ USE}\)
this.case considerable time elapses (about six weeks) before the progeny of the young queen is added to the population, which, meanwhile, will diminish somewhat in number, so that results may not prove as satisfactory as by the adoption of the first method.
There are various ways of mounting observatory hives besides that illustrated in Fig. 69. Fig. 74 shows in section a hive swung between pivots, so that it can be turned with either side to the wall. The lower pivot is of wood with a central hole through which the bees pass to the hive, a hole being cut through the supporting block up which the bees may creep. This block comes against the opening cut in the external wall of the room against which the board, to which the whole is fixed, is bolted. The top pivot can be withdrawn so that the hive case may be detached.
The hive can also be supported on a central pivot as shown in Fig. 75. The foot is cross-shaped, one of the pieces being hollow and forming the entrance for the bees. In the interior of the foot immediately below the hollow pivot an incline of wood is placed to guide the bees to the hole that leads into the hive.
## Chapter VIII
Inspection case for beehives.
An observatory hive is an expensive luxury that few amateur bee keepers can afford; and although an inspection case (Fig. 76) will not take its place for exhibition purposes it will be found useful when showing the working of a hive to timid persons, or for examining the frames on a cold day when there is danger of the brood being chilled, or the queen blown off the comb. It will also be found useful to those bee keepers who strongly object to being stung. The frames may be lifted one after another into the case and examined on
Figure 76: Inspection Case for Beehives.
both sides; a frame may be transferred to another hive; queen cells may be cut out by sliding back the glass slightly to insert a thin-bladed knife
for that purpose; or a frame of honey may be removed from the hive by lifting it into the case and driving out the bees with smoke or carbonic, when such a course happens to be necessary.
The case is made of \(\frac{1}{2}\)-in. pine throughout, of a length to take standard size bar-frames. The total length must be determined by the size of the
Figure 78: End Elevation of Inspection Case.
Figure 77: Section of Inspection Case.
hives for which the case is made. Fig 77 shows the case on a hive, with the outer casing, beyond the end of the bar-frames, \(\frac{3}{4}\) in. thick. Fig. 78 is an end view of the case. If two sizes of hive are used, the case may be made to the longest hive and a piece of calico tacked on from side to side, as shown at c (Fig. 79).
To make the case, proceed as follows : Cut two pieces of pine, \(1\frac{1}{4}\) in. by \(\frac{1}{4}\) in., and 3 in. longer than the length of hive, and two pieces, 1 in. by \(\frac{1}{4}\) in., equal to the length of the hive. Plane these up and rebate them \(\frac{1}{4}\) in. deep in the width, and the depth of the thickness of a piece of window glass (15 oz.) in the thickness. Next get out four pieces 10 in. long by 2 in. by \(\frac{1}{4}\) in. ; nail the long pieces to the short, as shown in the drawings, and this will make the two sides.
Now prepare the top, bottom, and end pieces. For the top, two pieces will be required 7 in. long by \(1\frac{1}{4}\) in. wide by \(\frac{1}{4}\) in. thick. Rebate these for a piece of window glass to form the top, and cut a piece out as at a (Fig. 76) to allow of the frames being lifted out if required. The size of pieces cut out must be regulated by the length of the frames, and the rebate worked to the full depth of the pieces cut out. Two light pieces are nailed on the bottom of these top pieces, as shown at a
Figure 79: Arrangement of Case to Fit Two Lengths of Beehives.
(Fig. 77), to form a groove to prevent the glass falling into the case.
The bottom pieces are 7 in. long by 11 in. by 1 in., and are to be nailed on the projecting ends of the bottom side pieces, to form a rebate to keep the case in position on the hive.
Four end pieces are required, 10 in. by 11 in.
by 1 in., and are nailed to the top pieces, sides, and through the bottom pieces, which will complete the woodwork.
Three pieces of glass will next be required, one for the top, 1 ft. 5 in. long by 6 in. wide, and two to fill the spaces at the sides. Two little buttons are screwed on, as shown at b (Fig. 76), to keep the top glass in position, while four small screws o will serve to keep the side glasses from falling off. The spaces at each end are filled with four pieces of calico or other suitable material, and an arrangement is made here to get the fingers in to lift the frames without letting the bees get out. Fig. 80 will explain how this is done. One edge of each piece of calico is hem
Figure 81: Cross Section of Inspection Case.
Figure 80: Securing End Openings of Inspection Case.
HIVE for REARINGQUENBES.
Bee keeping, conducted upon advanced principles, requires the bee keeper to provide himself with a supply of fertile queen bees during the working season. These are introduced into stocks that have been swarmed by art, in order to supply the place of the queen taken from them ; or, in the case of natural swarms, to save the time--very precious during the honey-flow--that would elapse before the immature queens left on the departure of the first swarm arrive at maturity, and take up the maternal duty of keeping up the working population of the hive, or of the new colonies which the secondary swarm or swarms originate. They will also be needed to enable the bee keeper to carry out certain other objects he may contemplate, such as the supersession of queens whose powers are declining through age, or which lack the desirable qualities good queens possess.
The rearing of queens is then an important matter with bee keepers who have apiaries of more than a few stocks of bees. The work is usually done by setting apart several small colonies of bees obtained by the division of full-sized stocks. The queens are reserved, so that the colonies are queenless, and in each of these queenless colonies a selected queen cell eight or nine days old is placed. A few days after the queen will arrive at maturity and liberate herself from the cell, and at a later stage, if all goes well, she will be found busily employed laying eggs, and receiving the attentions of her subjects. As soon as the bee keeper is assured of the queen's fertility by thepresence of eggs, or better, of worker brood in the hive, he may utilise her as he thinks proper.