BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
Put eight sections in the super, four on each side, with three \(T\) tins in their proper places. With a pencil rule across the board each side of each \(T\) tin, so as to show where the \(T\) tins come. Now take off the super and its contents, and get six strips, each \(11
ot\!\!V_{2}\) inches long and \(
ot\!\!V_{4}\) inch square.
Nail these on as shown in the picture, so as to keep at
Figure 47: Alfalfa.
pencil-mark of the super at each side, and about a fourth of an inch distant from the marks made for the T tins. The super-filter is now complete.
It stands at a convenient height at the right-hand side of the one who operates the Daisy fastener, with the side-cleat at the farther side (Fig. 87). A super is placed on it with one corner of the super tight against the angle made by the cleats ; but no T tin is yet put in the super. As the sections come from the fastener they are placed in the super at the end toward the back of the operator. When the first row of six is completed, the T tin is slipped under these sections into its proper place. In like manner a second row of sections and a T tin ; then a third row and a T tin, and lastly the fourth row. Then without rising, the operator lifts this filled super to one side and gets an empty one.
## putting in separators.
Generally these filled supers are not separatored till the day's work of fastening foundation is done. Then a small table is used at which the operator sits. This table is made of three live bottom-boards, or boards 21x14. Stand two of the boards on end ; nail the other board on top ; nail light boards on one side for a back, or brace with two pieces of lath diagonally ; and there's your table (Fig. 63). Being convenient for other purposes, several of these little tables are on hand. The table is placed near a pile of supers to be separatored, and the separators are filled in.
## top separators.
As the sections now stand, there is some space between them endwise, allowing them to be out of square, and making a convenient place for the bees to deposit a disagreeable quantity of propolis. To remedy this, there is crowded in at the top between each two rows of sections a little stick \(11\!\!/_{2}\) by \(1\!\!/_{4}\) by scant \(1\!\!/_{8}\). Then the follower is wedged in, and when all are done the supers are carried into the south room or store-room, and piled up to await the harvest time.
Baint-sections are put in enough supers so that the first super put on each hive shall be baited.
Generally only one bait-section is in a super, the bait being in the center, and these baited supers are piled in the store-room where it will be convenient to reach them first.
## satisfaction in having supers ready.
There is a feeling of real satisfaction in seeing the larger part of the store-room filled with piles of supers ready to go on the hives. How many times I have
Fig. 48: Colossal Ladino Clover.
counted them and admired the nice even piles reaching to the ceiling! Perhaps I should not appreciate them so much if I had not, years ago, felt the annoyance of running out of sections or foundation right in the middle of the honey season, waiting days for it, and the honey wasting.
Having spent thus much time telling what was done the previous winter, let us get back to warmer weather.
## giving additional supers.
Understanding now that each colony has had a super given to it about ten days after the very first white clover blossom has been seen, the further history of this super and its possible successors is a matter that varies so much in different seasons that it is difficult to tell it straight. By the way, you may think that I'm always thrilled with the sight of the first clover blossom. I'm not. Scarcely ever a thrill. The colonies are never all of them as strong as I would like for the beginning of the harvest, and that first clover blossom is merely a warning that the time for building up for the harvest is becoming very short.
## uncertainty of seasons.
As to giving additional super-room, it is a thing that may or not be. That first clover bloom may have so few successors that there will be no harvest; or bloom may be abundant with no nectar. So sometimes it happens that after it becomes a clear case that the harvest is a failure, the supers are taken off as innocent of honey as when they were put on. Ottener it happens that the bait-section in each super is filled and sealed and not a cell drawn out in the other sections. From that up, the seasons will vary so that the average number of sections to each colony will be 10, 24, 48, and up to 150 or more, although these latter seasons do not come with any alarming degree of frequency.
you had gone a little slower, and had the bees finish up what they had, rather than coax them to spread over more territory?" And then the cold chills would run up and down my back. But the sudden stop didn't come, and the crop was finished in good style.
The supers were all well filled with bees, and although I took some chances as to unfinished work, I feel pretty sure that if I had allowed less room it would have been at a loss. But that was a very exceptional case.
Usually, in a fair season, when the harvest is in full blast and fairly along, there will be 3.4 or more supers upon each hive, at one time. That does not mean, by
Figure 49:Linden or Basswood Blososoms.
any means, that all of them will be finished. for very likely the last super given will have very little honey in it when the harvest is over. But it will not do to let the bees be crowded for room, and if all the sections on the hive are about full, if the harvest has not entirely closed an empty super must be given, in case they _might_ need it.
## 11.4. **Supers for out-apinaries.**
If there is guessing about the number of supers to put on in the home apiary, there is still more guessing as to the number to be taken when starting to an out-apiary. If I take a smaller number than needed, I may have to take a special trip for more. If I take more than are needed, I will hardly want to take them back home with me, and they are put in piles and covered up in the hope that they may be used the next time. But there is some danger of their being affected by rain when piled up at the out-apiary, so there is trouble either way. On the whole it is better to take too many than too few, and so there are generally some extra ones at the out-apiaries.
To take supers to the out-apiaries, they are piled up on the wagon in five piles, a lath is nailed from top to bottom on each pile, and they are braced on top with lath (Fig. 11.4.) Fifty empty supers can be taken at a load, but it is not often that as many as forty filled supers are taken at a load.
As the harvest advances I am more chary about giving room, and it is only given when the sections already on are pretty well filled. Suppose toward the last of the season I come to a colony that has its sections nearly all filled. There is a possibility that the bees may be able to finish up what they have and a few more in an additional super, but the great probability, is that they will do no more than to finish what they have. Although that probability may amount to almost a certainty, I do not act upon it, but go for the possibility and give the extra super. But I put it on top of the others, so that the bees will not commence work in it unless actually crowded into it.
During the early part of the harvest, so long as there is a reasonable expectation that each additional super will be needed, the empty super is put under the others, next to the brood-chamber. Work will commence in it more promptly than when an empty super is placed on top, and that greater promptness in occupying the new super may be the straw to turn the scale on the side of keeping down the desire for swarming. But when a super is put on toward the close of the season, not because it seems really needed, but as a sort of safety-valve in case it might be needed, I do not wish to do anything to coax the bees into it, so it is put on top, and the bees can do as they please about entering it. It is true that if an empty super is put under the others at a time when the harvest is nearing its close, the bees may not do a thing in it, but merely go up and down through it and keep to work in
Figure 50: Box of Lindens in Bloom.
the super above. But it is not so well to have them working so far from the brood-nest with empty space beneath.
No bait-section is needed in any super after the first.
Latterly I have fallen into the practice of giving an empty super on top, even when an empty super is put under. This for more than one reason. It sometimes happens that the upper starter of foundation is not securely fastened the entire length. If fastened half way across the top-bar of the section, it will look all right, but if put under other supers, next to the brood-chamber, a heavy weight of bees coming upon it suddenly will drag down the foundation at one side. If put on top, the bees will enter the super only gradually, and the foundation will be fastened in place before any great weight of bees comes upon it. This empty super on top gives a less crowded feeling, and may help a little toward preventing swarming. No matter how full or empty the lower super may be, this top super serves as a sort of safety-valve, in case any need for more room should arise. The next time there is need to give a super below, this top super is moved down and another empty super put in its place. When the top super is put down, I think the bees start work on it just a bit sooner than if it had not been above.
swarming not desirable.
If I were to meet a man perfect in the entire science and art of bee-keeping, and were allowed from him an answer to just one question, I would ask for the best and easiest way to prevent swarming, for one who is anxious to secure the largest crop of comb honey. There are localities where a large crop of honey is secured in the fall, and in such place, or in any place where the honey is long enough, a larger crop may be secured by increase, but I am not so sure about that. If a man in such a place starts in the spring with 75 colonies, he may get a larger crop by increasing early enough to 150, supposing 150 colonies to be the largest number his field will bear; but would he not have a still larger crop if he had 150 all through the season and made no increase? However that may be, in my locality, which bee-keepers generally would consider a poor one, where white clover is the chief if not the only source from which a crop may be expected, and where the harvest is all too short, if, indeed, it comes at all--in such a place I am satisfied that more honey can be harvested by commencing in the spring with the largest number the field will bear and holding at that number, always provided that the means taken to keep down increase shall in no wise interfere with the best work on the part of the bees.
If I were working for extracted honey, I suppose the matter might be managed, to a great extent, if not to the fullest extent, by simply giving abundance of room in every direction; but with comb honey, I do not believe that an abundance of room in the brood-nest is compatible with the largest yield of surplus.
Or, if I were working for extracted honey, I might at the beginning of the harvest put all the brood over an excluder in an upper story. leaving the queen on empty frames below, but that would hardly work for comb-honey production.
## 10.7.2.2.
From my first using movable frames, I think I have kept my queens' wings clipped, so my experience in having natural swarms with flying, queens has been very limited. But my experience in having swarms issue where and when I did not want them, has been very large. Only extreme modesty and humidity prevents my being very proud of so large an experience. If I should ever reach that point where I shall be equally successful in preventing swarms, I make no promise to be either modest or humble.
So long as success in prevention of swarms has not been reached, it remains an important matter to know the best thing to do when swarms do issue. Under ordinary circumstances some one must be on hand to watch for swarms. For several years I have had no watching for swarms, and have had no swarms except those which swarmed in spite of my efforts to prevent them. Yet if I had only the one apiary, it is just possible that I might allowing swarming, at least so far as to allow the bees to swarm and then return to their old hives. At any rate there are a great many so situated as to allow their bees to go thus far in swarming, and I feel pretty sure that for them there may be some interest in knowing what I did when swarms did issue, so I will give an account of my management when I formerly allowed the bees to swarm.
## watching for swarms.
With as many as 100 colonies in an apiary, the one who is on watch can hardly be allowed to do anything else. The regular noise is so great among so many that the added noise of a swarm is hardly noticed; so sight, not hearing must be depended on. I have gone on with my regular work and taken a look once in five or ten minutes along the rows to see if any swarms were out, but it is not a very satisfactory way of doing. A bright boy or girl can watch very well, if faithful. It is not necessary, of course to watch all day; and the weather has much to do with the hours at which swarms may be expected. On a hot morning a swarm may issue as early as 6 o'clock; but this is exceptional, and if the weather has been cloudy through the day, clearing off bright and warm in the after part, a swarm may issue after 4 o'clock. Ordinarily, however, it is not necessary to be on the look-out before 8 a. m., or much after 3 p. m. I had a swarm issue once in a shower, but, that is so unlikely to occur that I would not think it worth while to keep any watch at such a time.
The watcher will soon learn the points of advantage from which he can easily command a view of the whole apiary, not needing to stir from his seat unless a swarm issues. Sometimes, however, there is so much playing going on among the bees, that there is no alternative but to travel about and take a close look at each colony that shows unusual excitement. It is an advantage at this time to have the hives in long rows. I have \(30\) or \(40\) hives in a row. At the middle is a shady place to sit. A clock or watch lies in open sight so that a look at every hive may be taken once in five minutes. If there is no time-piece to go by, the watcher may become interested in something else, and think the five minutes not up when double that time has passed; but having the time measured out, he is free to read or do anything else between times. At each five minutes, the watcher, who is sitting at the middle of the middle row, rises, glances along the back row to the north end; then, along the middle row to the north end; then, stepping forward, glances along the front row to the north end; then along the same row to the south end; then to the south end of the middle row; and lastly to the south end of the back row. All this has taken less time than it takes to write it, and the watcher is ready to sit down till another five minutes is up.
If, however, unusual commotion is seen--and, sighting along the rows in this way, it can easily be seen--the watcher goes to the hive for a closer look. Up to the middle of the day or later, there is not often much excitement, unless there be a swarm; but after this time so many colonies take their play-spells that the watcher needs to spend most of his time on his feet.
one-cent cages.
The watcher is provided with a number of queen-cages. These are easily made and the material costs less than a cent apiece. I take a pine block, 5x1x1/2-inch, and wrap around it a piece of wire-cloth 4 inches square. The wire-cloth is allowed to project at one end of the block a half inch. The four sides of this projecting end are bent down upon the end of the stick and hammered down tight into place. A piece of fine wire about 10 inches long is wrapped around the wire-cloth, about an inch from the open end, which will be about the middle of the stick, and the ends of the wire twisted together. I then pull out the block, trim off the corners of the end a little so that it will easily enter the cage, slide the stick in and out of the cage a number of times so that it will work easily, and the thing is complete (Fig. 65). When not in use, the block is pushed clear in, so as to preserve the shape of the cage. Such cages can be carried in the pocket without danger of being injured.
easily by watching on the ground in front of the entrance. Very frequently she comes out at the back end of the hive or at the side, when the hive is raised on blocks. Rarely she may be found at some distance from the hive, on the ground, with a group of bees about her. If not found, she is most likely in the hive, and the swarm may re-issue in a day or two. She may be lost, but at this particular time her loss is not so very great. There is no danger of the swarm being lost ; it will return to the hive in a few minutes, although I have known them to cluster for half an hour or more before returning. It may happen, sometimes, that a swarm may go into a hive whose colony has swarmed a little while before, and where it is always peacefully received. I do not like this doubling up, but I do not know that I lose anything by it, for the bees can store up just as much in one hive as another.
When the watcher finds the queen, she is caged. Either the cage is held down for her to run into, or she is caught and then caged. After the queen is in the cage, the block is pushed in an inch or so, and the cage put where the bees can take care of it. Usually it is thrust into the entrance, close up against the bottom-bars, so that if a cool night should come there will be no danger that the bees will desert it.
The watcher keeps a little memorandum book, and puts down in it the number of the colony that swarmed ; for it might make bad work if it should be forgotten and neglected until the emergence of a young queen to lead out an absconding swarm.
##### 10.1.2.2 DOOLITtle's plan.
Some years ago Mr. G. M. Doolittle gave a plan for management of swarming colonies when no increase was desired. I do not think that he uses it now. I do not know that I shall ever use it again, and yet it was valuable to me, and for some circumstances nothing may be better. The plan, in brief, was this : The queen being caged and left in the hive, all queen-cells are cut out in five days from the time the swarm issued, and five days later all queen-cells are again cut out and the queen set at liberty.
I used this one season with great satisfaction, and I do not remember that any colony thus treated swarmed again.
The next season I varied the plan. Instead of leaving the queen with the colony to remain idle for ten days, I took her away and gave her to a nucleus, a new colony, or wherever a queen was needed. At the end of the ten days I returned her to the colony, placing her directly upon a comb taken from the middle of the brood-nest. Often, however, I gave them a different queen, for after an absence of ten days, I doubt if they could tell their own queen from any other. Besides, they were in a condition to take any queen without grumbling.
After the first year, however, I had some colonies swarm again after the queen was given them. Whether it was the season, the change in the plan, or some other cause. I am unable to say.
## 11.1. put-up plan.
I then adopted a plan which relieved me of the necessity of hunting for and cutting out queen-cells. No matter how careful I might be, there was always a possibility that I might overlook a queen-cell, although this very rarely happened, if ever. But it took a good deal of valuable time. I give herewith the plan, which I think an improvement:
When a swarm issues and returns, it is ready for treatment immediately; although usually it is put down in my memorandum of work to be done, and the time set for it may be the next day or any time within five days, just as suits my convenience. The queen is caged at the time of swarming, and left in the care of the bees, as already mentioned.
Within the five days, I take off the super, and put most of the brood-combs into an empty hive. Indeed, I may take all the brood-combs, for I want in this hive all the combs the colony should have. In the hive left on the stand, I leave or put from one to three frames, generally two. These combs must be sure to have no queen-cells,and may be most safely taken from a young or weak colony having no inclination to swarm. The two combs are put in one side of the hive, two or three dummies place beside them, and the rest of the hive left vacant.
The question may be asked, "Will not the bees build comb in this vacant part of the hive?" No ; at least they do not for me. Queenless colonies are little given to comb-building, and not at all inclined to make a fresh start in a new place.
If I did not do so at the time of taking out the frames, I now shake the bees off from about half the frames, not being particular to shake them off clean. These bees are of course shaken off into the hive on the stand. The supers are now put on this hive with its two or three frames of brood, the cover is put over the supers, and the "put-up" live filled with brood is placed over all.
getting the bees to destroy the queen-cells.
A plenty of bees will be left to care for the brood, the queen will commence laying, all thought of swarming is given up, and every queen-cell torn down by the bees. In perhaps two days I take a peep to see if the queen is laying, for it sometimes happens that at the time when I "put up the queen" (as I call the operation I have just described), there is already a young queen just hatched, and then the old queen is pretty sure to be destroyed. In this latter case I may remove the young queen and give them a laying one, or I may let the young queen remain.
Putting down the queen.
In ten days from the time the swarm issued--sometimes ten days from the time I "put up the queen"--I put down the queen. If by chance, a young queen is in the upper hive, I do not like to put her down until she commences laying and her wing is clipped, for fear of her taking out a swarm. It seems a foolish operation for them to swarm when there is nothing in the hive from whichi a queen can be reared, but I have had it happen. The operation of putting down is very simple. I lift the hive off the top, place it on the ground, remove the supers, take the hive off the stand, place it on one side, put the hive containing the queen on the stand, and replace the supers.
_Fig. 53--Two Asters._
You will see that this leaves the queen full chance to lay from the minute she is uncaged, and at the time of putting down there will be as much brood as if the queen had remained in her usual place. Most of the bees, of course, adhered to the lower hive when the queen was put up, but by the time she is put down quite a force has hatched out, and these have marked the upper live as their location. Upon this being taken away, the bees, as they return from the field, will settle upon the cover, where their hive was, and form a cluster there; finally an explorer will crawl down to the entrance of the hive below, and a line of march in that direction will be established immediately. In a day or two they will go straight to the proper entrance.
## 11.6 Good chance for nuclei.
We left, standing on the ground, the hive with its two combs, which had been taken from the stand. These two combs, when the queen was put up, probably had a good quantity of eggs, and brood in all stages. They now contain none but sealed brood, some queen-cells and a pretty heavy supply of pollen. Or, it may be that eggs from a choice queen were given, and the queen-cells are to be saved. A goodly number of bees adhere to the two combs and I know of no nicer way to start a new colony, than simply to place the hive in a new location. Or, the bees may be shaken off at the old stand and the combs given to a nucleus which needs them.