BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
We must always bear in mind that, no matter how good our equipment, how well we pack for winter, how generous are the winter stores, and how abundant the nectar in the blossoms, our efforts will bring only failure if we do not have a good queen in the hive.
## Chapter II Conditions under which the Bees near Queens.
In order to rear queues successfully we must study the conditions in the hive under which bees rear their own queens. 'There are three of these, known to beekeepers as the Emergency Impulse, Supersedure and Swarming.
In nature, it sometimes happens that a colony suddenly loses its laying queen. Perhaps, as on very rare occasions, the queen, while laying, dies before the bees have time to supersede her in the regular way. The inmates of the hive at once realize they must meet this emergency, and immediately go to work to rear another queen. Fortunately, nature has made it possible for them to produce one from the larvae or eggs already in the hive. They, therefore, choose a number of worker larvae and begin to feed them lavishly with predigested food known as royal jelly. They usually fill the cell with this until the tiny larva is floated out to the mouth; then the bees build a queen-cell over it, pointing it downward. This new cell is frequently over an inch long, and is much larger inside than that of the worker. The bees feed the larva until about five days after it is hatched from an egg, and then the cell is sealed over by them. The larva within spins a small thin ceoeoon, changes from a larva into a pupa, and, in about eight days from the time the cell is sealed, the virgin queen draws off the ear of the cell and crawls out. For a few hours she is a weak, frail creature, downy and delicate. However, she develops rapidly, and in from two to four hours, realizing she is a queen, she, just as many monarehs in the human family, becomes very jealous of any who may have ambitions to possess her thronc. Itis interesting to note the events which take place in the live for the next few hours.
Having in mind the suppression of competition, the new queen rooms over the combs. If there are any queen-cells from which the queens have not emerged, she supervises the destruction of them. The workers perform most of the labor under her directions, although she helps as best she can. She begins on the cells whose queens are most mature. She seems to reason these are the ones likely to give her the first trouble. An opening is made in the side of each, and, if the innate is about ready to emerge, the queen baeks down into the opening in the side of the cell and stings her helpless rival. The opening is then enlarged, and the dead queen is carried out by the bees. Other cells are visited and destroyed in turn. However, if there are queen-cells unenpied, those are left for a while, the newly emerged queen seeming to realize that she has plenty of time to handle their cases before they become any menace to her.
Now, it frequently happens that, while this young queen is finding herself for the first two hours after emerging, other queens emerge, and several virgin queens will be in the live at once. They seem to realize they are too young to do any satisfactory fighting, so by mutual consent they avoid each other's society and devote their time to supervising the destruction of queen-cells. However, as they grow from four to twelve hours old, they begin to seek out their rivals with the idea of doing battle. When they meet they clinch, and each tries to get a chance to sting the other. The light does not last lonz, for soon one gets in the evoteel position to give the fatal thrust of the sting in the thorax of her rival. The vanquished queen quivers a moment, and is dead.
Other "preliminary" flights are staged until only two queens are left. Then the "final" duel takes place, and the victorious queen reigns supreme.
In due time queen-cells in all stages of development are destroyed, and in six, seven or eight days the virgin queen flies out of the live, meets the drone, and returns, to become the mother of the colony, beginning her egg-laying within the next day or two.
A different order of events has been given by others, who state that the first thing a young queen does is to hunt up her rival and fight it out; but I have witnessed the occurrences many times as above described. Indeed, when occasionally grafted cells have been left too long in the live, upon opening it I have found many queens safe and well, all busily engaged in learing down cells, I have counted as many as fourteen superintending this work of destruction before any battle had begun. They have been given to nuclei, thus saving them.
The most unsatisfactory manner in which bees rear queens is the Emergency method. The bees seem to feel their danger of extinction from having no queens. In their frenzy, a large number of cells are started. To make a half matter worse, they take larvae that are too old, with an idea probably of reaping some sort of queen in the shortest possible time. We all know that in satisfactory queen-rearing, the younger the larva used, the letter. By this method, the oldest larva chosen is the first to hatch, so the poorest queen in the batch is the one that heols the colony. However, as this is an emergency case, the bees seem to reason that, if this queen is not as good as she should be, they can take their time and rear a good one later on by the supersedure method.
**Supersedure Method.**
When a queen is beginning to fail from old age or some other infinuity, the bees seem to realize that she can not be with them much longer, so they take steps toward rearing for themselves a new mother. Queen-cells are started, sometimes only one, seldom more than four. In these shallow cups the queen lays eggs. As soon as hatched, the larvae are feel royal jelly, and, as they receive the eare and attention of the whole colony, good queens are, as a rule, the result. Sometimes the bees seem to wait until the old queen is so far gone that she lays several eggs in a queen-cell, which results in the larvae not having sufficient food since they have to share it with their "cell mates." Owing to their being crowded in the cell, such queens are sometimes slightly misshapen. Usually, however, all but one of the larvae are removed before the cell is sealed. Under the supersedure method, however, poor queens are rare and, as a rule, the best of queens are reared. Usually the old queen disappears as soon as the virgin emerges from the cell; but, sometimes, mother and daughter live peaceably together, both laying and usually found on the same comb.
**Queens Reared Under the Swarming Impulse.**
When a colony is preparing to swarm they start a large number of queen-cells in which the queen lays eggs. When the first cell is capped, if the weather is favorable, the swarm usually comes out. As swarming occurs when the colony is at its height of broad-rearing, the larvae are well supplied with royal jelly, so that the finest queens are reared. In rearing queens by any method, we can learn a great deal by carefully studying the conditions of the bees while building cells preparatory to swarming, for we wish to duplicate the performance.
I'nder the Emergency method, the bees build a large number of cells, but they do not give them the proper attention and skim the larvae for food. Under the Supersedure method, they give the larvae plenty of food, but usually do not build more than three or four cells. Under the Swarming Impulse, they not only build large numbers of cells but supply the larvae in them lavishly with food. What is the reason for this? Is it because they have the "swarming fever" that induces them to do such good work? I believe not. My observations lead me to believe it is the _condition_ of the colony and, in support of this theory, I have found that as many and as good cells may be built by a colony when not preparing to swarm as by one that is, provided the conditions are the same in all other respects.
What are these conditions? First, a honey flow is on or just coming on, for bees seldom swarm at any other time. Second, they are strong in bees, especially young nurse-less. Third, the live is crowded with broad in all stages; and fourth, the weather is reasonably warm. I believe these conditions enable the bees to rear not only a large number of queens but those of the highest quality. I'nderstand, it is the _condition_, _and the swarming fever_. As evidence to substantiate this statement, the following fact, which I have observed many times, is given. While having cells lindished above an exluder, sometimes the bees take it into their heads to swarm, and as bars of cells are capped the swarm issues. Since the wings of the queen are clipped the bees return, and the queen is helped back into the hive. Removing the bar of cells frequently discourages swarming but sometimes they persist, coming out every day or every other day for a week or more as the spirit moves them. I have never been able to see that, while they had this swarming fever, they gave the cells any better attention than before or after swarming. This fact satisfied me that it is the condition of the colony and the honey flow or the feeding that give good results in cell-building.
Under the Grafting method, we endeavor to get all colonies connected with queen-rearing in the condition above described. If we do, we can rear queens every bit as good as those reared under the swarming impulse; if we do not, inferior queens will result. By examining the cells, one can easily tell which of the three methods the bees used in their construction. In the Emergency method, the queen is reared from a larva that has hatehed in a worker-cell, so by looking into the bottom of the queen-cell, the worker-cell may be seen. In the Supersedure method as well as the Swarming method, the cells are the same. The queen lays eggs in both; but, during the swarming, many more cells are built than under the super-seding impulse.
There are several methods that may be employed where one wishes to rear but a few queens. Cells, saved from a colony that has just swarned, may be placed in colonies to be requeened. whose queens have been removed. This is much better than to allow colonies to run along with inferior queens; but, by this method, little progress can be made in improving the stock since, when you wish to requeen, your best colony may not be swarming. Consequently, you would have to use cells from an inferior colony. It has frequently been noted that the inferior strains of bees swarm the most. Blacks and hybrids are much more inclined to swarm than Italians.
In requeening by the swarming method, a piece of comb one inch in diameter should be cut out around the cell, using a good, sharp knife, and being careful not to injure the cell. A hole of corresponding size should be cut in the comb of the colony to be requeened and the piece containing the cell fitted into it. Where but one cell is on a comb, the entire comb may be placed in the colony to be requeened. If this colony is of medium strength or strong, it makes no difference just where the cell is placed for there will be sufficient bees to give it the proper incubation. The bees may be left on this comb or brushed off, but never should be shaken off since the un-developed queen is almost sure to be injured. In giving a cell to a weak colony or a nucleus, it is important to place it near the center next to the brood. Frequently cells built on the bottom edge of a comb when given to a weak colony do not mature.
A second and very simple method of requeening is simply to remove the queen from a colony, and the bees will construct a number of cells by the Emergency method. Such queens are not, as a rule, as good as those reared under the Swarming or Supersedure Impulse. If care is taken to save only the largest and best cells, however, very good queens can be reared in this way. The principal point to commend in both of the above methods is their simplicity. If one has never reared queens, these will prove very interesting and are a step toward better ones.
The third system requires a little more skill, but will produce cells as good as the best if care is taken to have all conditions right. Go to the colony containing your breeding queen and insert an empty comb into the center of the brood-nest. Leave this there for two or three days or until the queen has laid a large number of eggs in the cells. Remove it, however, before the eggs begin to hatch since our object is to get the boca to use very small larvae from which to rear queens.
Next, go to a strong colony and take the queen and all combs containing eggs or brood, but leave with the bees several combs of honey and pollen and give them the frame of eggs from your breeding queen. If it is desired to save this queen, she is given a frame of brood and adhering beesand put into a live to start a new colony. Fill out the vacant space with units containing some honey, it possible. 17 you have no extra drawn-onks on land it is better to take a few from other colonies and in their place give full sheets of foundation, for they will do better work at drawing foundation than would this new colony which is not strong enough for that purpose. The remainder of the broad is used to strengthen weaker colonies or to make strong colonies even stronger for the honey flow as occasion seems to demand.
Having now disposed of the queen and broad, let us go back to our neweless colony. Realizing their queenlessness, the hors will start cells as soon as the eggs begin to hatch. Very frequently by enlarging the worker-cell, they make it over into a queen-cell even before the egg hatehes. In this manner the newly hatched larvae receive abundance of royal jelly from the very start, which is necessary for the best results. This method has the advantage over the others just described since the bees can not use larvae too old for good results. However, it should only be used when there is a honey flow. In about six days after the cells are capped, they should be cut out with a sharp knife, and given to colonies to be requested which have been made queenless. When there are larvae of the proper age at the bottom of the comb, the bees prefer to build cells there, sometimes building a compact row of cells half way across the comb. In such cases some of the cells will have to be destroyed when being cut apart. In giving this comb of eggs to the colony, if there are no eggs at the bottom of the comb, it is well to cut away the comb so that the eggs will be at the edge. This is not necessary, however, for the bees will start plenty of cells if the comb is left intact. As the operation of forming nuclei to receive them, when that is desired, is the same as given under the Grafting method, it will not be described here.
The Grafting Method.
If one keeps as many as fifty colonies or expects to do so in the future, it will pay him to learn the grafting method. This requires much more skill and practice than the ones above mentioned; but it has so many advantages over all the rest that it is used by nearly all queen-brockers and extensive honey producers who rear their own queens.
This method is more economical, for it is not necessary to have any colony queenless at any time. You have control over the situation and can rear queens in any quantity desired. It is exact, since you know within a very few hours when any cell will hatch. The artificial queen enps are much easier to handle, for with them it is not necessary to cut up and neutralize good worker conbs. Lavvae can be taken from your best breeding queen and the stock improved thereby. Last but not least, the very best queens can be reared, if conditions are kept right. To rear a few queens during a honey flow is a simple matter; but to keep up a steady production throughout the season under variable weather and honey flow _is not_ a simple matter. However, with experience and patience it can be done.
**REARING QUENS ON A LARGE SCALE.**
CHAPTER IV.
1 thoroughly believe that many beekeepers who have a thousand colonies or more and who do not rear their own quecns could increase their honey yield fifty per cent by having a good queen-renaring outfit and being able to use it properly. Moreover, in localities where European fool brood is rampant the honey crop might be doubled or trebled, since there is nothing that eliminates this disease like strong colonies of Italian bees headed by young, vigorous queens.
**Headwork.**
Some of the most important work that can possibly be done in the winter months is reading bee books and journals, of which we have a goodly supply of the highest standard. Secure all the books you can and take all of the journals. If you do this and carefully study them, it will be the best investment you can make. Read, study and plan in the winter.
We should remember that successful business men work with their _heads_. They can hire band work at a low figure; but headwork is always at a premium. A great deal of headwork is required of the successful beekeeper, and much of this work can be done in winter. During the honey flow we are too busy working with our hands to do much headwork. J. S. Knox, the efficiency expert, says that a man is worth $2.50 per day from his chin downward. If be earns more than this, it must come from above the chin. Consequently, he divides men into two classes, "Chin Uppers" and "Chin Downers." If we are successful we must be "chin uppers." For the beekeeper the best time to do his "chin upper" work is in the winter sitting before a comfortable fire, reading, thinking, studying, planning.
Moreover, as there is a great deal of work to be done with the bees during the queen-renaring season, one should plan to do all the work possible in the winter. Nailing up hives and nuclei, painting them, putting in foundation, dipping cells and similar work should all be gotten out of the way before spring connes.
## Chapter 5noiler; while was is placed in the inner tray, and the whole set over the heat. The wax should be kept at the lowest temperature at which it will remain liquid. If it becomes too cool the cells will be lumpy; it too hot, they do not slip from the sticks. If one is not experienced, it is well, when the wax apparently reaches the proper temperature for successful dipping, to try dipping one stick, and, if the wax proves of satisfactory temperature, proceed to work.
First, dip the ends of the forming sticks in cold water, then dip into the melted wax; again dip in water and back into the wax for about four dippings, are being taken to have a firm, thick base, with a thin, even edge. By dipping the sticks in the wax and holding the bar up until a drop forms on the base of the cell, a thick base is prevented. A thick base is necessary, for in trimming off the cells with a knife the cells would be injured if too short. When completed, the cells should be about five-sixteenths of an inch across the mouth and one-half inch deep inside measurements.
Many beekeepers make a mistake in believing that the most important feature for successful cell acceptance is the grafting of the larvae into the cell cups; but a far more important feature is that of making cells of the proper shape and size. The ideal cell would be as the hees build them, large inside, with a small month; but it is not possible, or at least practical for the beekeeper to make cells of this shape. Upon several occasions, I have given cells that had been accepted and slightly built out in the swarm box to a colony for finishing, when by accident it contained a virgin queen. Of course, the larvae and jelly were both quickly elensed out.
I have given one bar of such cells to a swarm box and two bars of our dipped cells. The bees seemed to concentrate all their efforts on the cells already worked on by the bees and neglected my dipped cells. The bees prefer to make the mouth of the cell just large enough for a worker be to crawl into, and it is frequently noticed that sometimes, in the worker's taste to back out of a queen-cell when smoke is blown into the hive, it is caught and has to do considerable scrambling and kicking before it can get out. I find the best cell for practical purposes is one whose size is between that of the inside of a natural queen-cell at its largest place and the mouth of the cell, this being five-sixteenths of an inch as given above. In our early experience, many of us, enthusiastic in rearing larger queens, sought to accomplish this by making larger cells; but, being large at the mouth, the bees were looth to accept them, and it took considerable work on their part to build them over to the size they should be. When the bees get to work on the cells they mould them into the shape they want, regardless of the size and shape the heekeeper has made them. The smaller cells will give better acceptance than the larger ones; but do not for a moment imagine this cranps the larva and produces an inferior queen, for the bees enlarge the cell to suit their own fancy. For experimental purposes I have dipped queen-cells the size of a worker-cell, and excellent results were obtained. Cells larger than five-sixteenths of an inch are not accepted so readily as those of this size or smaller.
Nothing but pure beeswax of good quality should be used. Upon one occasion, when everything was going finely, cells accepted and built out nicely, the bees in the swarm boxes began to balk until finally they accepted less than twenty-five per cent of those given. I had all conditions right, as I supposed, the same as before--plenty of young bees, well fed. \(\Lambda\)t length I noticed the wax of which we made the cells was not so white as some we had been using. I made up a new batch of cells from clear white wax, and, as if by magic, all cells were again accepted and everything went on splendially as before. Instead of heating the wax in a double boiler as we do now, this wax had been set directly over the flame and had become slightly scorched and darkened, so the bees would have none of it.
After the cells have remained in water long enough to become slightly hardened, they are loosened by giving each a slight twist, but allowed to remain on the sticks. They are then placed on the cell bar, the frame being \(\delta\) u p p o r t inner tray, in order that sufficient was may be had to make the cells the necessary one-half in depth. If the wax in either beoeones dark-colored or impure it should be discarded, and an entire batch of new clear wax placed in the tray. However, the darker wax may be used to paint the bases of the cells to cause them to adhere to the bar.
When the wax has become thoroughly cool, the frame is lifted off and all of the forming sticks come out of the cells easily. If properly done, the cells will remain on the bars even if subjected to considerable rough usage. When the cell bars are all finished, they should be wrapped carefully in paper to be kept free from dust, since the bees will not accept dirty or dusty cells. If you have on hand the cardboard cartons in which foundation is shipped, they make ideal containers for the cell bars.
### Suggestions in Making Cell Cups.
Of course it is not advisable for the beginner to have a dipping outfit made as previously described. After mastering the grafting method, he may enlarge upon his equipment as he wishes. The beginner can either dip his cells one at a time and mount them or be can purchase ready-pressed cells from dealers in bee supplies. Either one will give perfect results. These cells may be mounted on bars as needed, thus eliminating the necessity of purchasing a large number of bars. The base of these cells may be dipped in hot wax and stuck on to the bar when needed. To avoid the necessity of getting the swarm box, he can also use the queen-less and broodless method described in Chapter XIII. However, I believe it pays to use the swarm box, for one can, as a rule, get better results. In this way it is possible to experiment until one gets his hand in without putting much money into equipment, and as he progresses can add to the equipment to fit his requirements.