BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
The most common complaint made by inexperienced beekeepers is, that the ''worms'' destroy the bees for them, but this is really a mistake, for worms never kill bees. The trouble in such cases is that the colonies often become weak as a result of queenlessness, and the moths thereupon oceupy the combs the bees can not care for. It often happens that colonies become weak from the ravages of diseases, which are undetected or neglected by the beekeeper. If left alone, these weak colonies are a source of infection to other colonies in the neighborhood, by being robbed. Since the moth makes its appearance and destroys these combs, which would otherwise be a menace, this must prominent enemy of bees is more nearly a friend in disguise. Keeping all colonies strong and having Italian, or other improved bees, in good tight and clean hives, will prevent any trouble from their depredations. With common black bees, or their crosses, the wax moth is much more persistent, and for this reason it pays to improve the stock of bees.
The adult insect is a small moth, brownish gray in appearance, which lays its eggs on the combs or in crevices about the hives. The eggs will hatch into small larvae which feed upon the combs. They prefer those containing stored pollen or in which brood has been reared. In working their way through the comb, the larvae tunnel beneath the surface of these, keeping out of the reach of the bees as much as possible. They line their tunnels with a thin silky web as they proceed, and grow larger in size from day to day. When they have reached their proper age they spin eocoons, from which they emerge after a time as full grown moths. From this it will be seen that the so-called 'worms' are nothing but the larvae of the wax
EXPLANATION OF FOREGOING PLATE.
The full page illustration of the two species of beeswax-moths was obtained through the courtesles of the A. I. Root Co., of Medina, Ohio, publishers of A B C & X Y Z of Bee Culture. It is from an article on the subject by Mr. Sidney Olliff, the Government Entomologist for New South Wales, Australia, reproduced in the above work from the _Agricultural Gazette_. The plate is from a drawing by Mrs. E. M. Grosse and the explanation follows:
Beeswax-Moths.
Fig. 1.--Larva or caterpillar of Larger Beeswax-moth (_Galferia mellonella_, Linn.), side view (much enlarged).
Fig. 2.--The same viewed from above (much enlarged).
Fig. 3.--Cocoon of same, extracted from bee-comb (enlarged).
Fig. 4.--Larger Beeswax-moth (_Galferia mellonella_, Linn.), male (much enlarged).
Fig. 5.--Forewing of same, female.
Fig. 6.--Larva or caterpillar of Lesser Beeswax-moth (_Achria grisella_, Fabr.), side view (much enlarged).
Fig. 7.--Pupa or Chrysalis of same (much enlarged).
Fig. 8.--Lesser Beeswax-moth (_Achria grisella_, Fabr.), (much enlarged).
In the background above, a comb from a frame hive is represented, showing brood comb tunneled by the larvae of the larger beeswax-moth (_Gelleria mellonella_, Linn.).
The natural sizes of the insects are indicated by hair-lines.
moth, and that they do the damage to the combs in their larval stage. The moths are very quick in their flight and movements. They will enter any colony that is not able to defend itself, and are often found in fairly strong colonies of black bees. They also lay their eggs in openings and creviees of hives of the colonies, and when the larvae emerge, they find their way into the hives. Strong colonies will keep them from doing any harm, however, while they may gain ready headway in weak colonies and destroy all of the combs within a short time. The combs upon which they work are very rapidly reduced to a mass of webbs and cocoons, and are thus completely ruined.
All combs not in use should be protected by giving them to the care of strong colonies of bees. If this is not possible they should be placed in tight hive bodies and stacked up in piles, leaving an empty hive, or any sort of tight box, below, from which the combs can be fumigated with sulphur fumes. A more satisfactory way of fumigating these is by the use of bisulphide of carbon, a liquid, which may be obtained at any drug store. Care should be taken, however, in handling this, as it is highly inflammable, and the vapor from it should not be allowed to come near a flame. The combs to be fumigated should be put in a tight box, and the liquid placed in it above them in a shallow saucer, and the fumes, which are heavier than air, will find their way down through the combs. Where combs are badly infested with wax-moth larvae they may be treated in the manner shown in the illustrations on pp. 130 and 131. After diging a shallow trench, the length and width of the hives, in the yard, and laying down a few newspapers, the stack of hives with the combs is set on these. Water is then poured around the hives to make these air tight. An empty hive is set over the top into which a saucer full of bisulphide of carbon is placed. Wet newspapers are then laid over the top as shown, and the whole is then covered over tightly with a large wagon sheet, or a tarpaulin. The lower edges of this are tucked snugly against the pile of hives about the ground and left for the fumes to do their deadly work.
The beekeeper should refrain from leaving any particles of wax or combs lying about the apiary, the honey house or shop, as these afford breeding places for the moths, and furnish a supply of mothsthat may continue to do damage in the apiaries. With a little care the number of moths can be kept down materially and the danger from this source decreased. Keeping all the colonies strong and in good hives will enable any beekeeper to protect his bees against the ravages of the wax moth larvae, and there is no excuse for the constant, and often heavy losses, attributed to their depredations. The progressive beekeeper does not fear them as an enemy.
There is another and smaller wax moth, known as the "Lesser wax moth," that does a good deal of harm to theappings of stored combs. Fancy comb honey is often spoiled by the larvae of these little moths tunneling through the delicateappings of the combs. Their presence may be noticed by the fine dust-like trails over the comb surface. Fumigation should be resorted to immediately upon such discovery. The moths are slightly more than half the size of the common wax moth. They are silvery gray in appearance and swift in movement and flight. They need not be feared any more than the larger moth.
## Other enemies.
_Mice._ Sometimes great damage is done to the combs stored away over winter by mice getting to them ; but, with a little care in keeping the combs out of their reach, or in closed hives or boxes, they need not be feared. Occasionally they will find their way into hives of bees where they like to nest, because of the warmth coming from the cluster of bees. In doing so they are very destructive to the combs. Entrances to the hives, therefore, should not be more than 3% inch in depth. Since bees object to occupying hives and supers which smell of mice, they should be kept away from them by constant trapping.
Since mice are very fond of old combs and honey, they can easily be caught by placing several of the small flat spring traps upon sueh pieces of comb honey, in a shallow pan about three inches high. Outside of the pan a piece of brick, or the like, is placed immediately opposite each of the traps, so that the mice, in climbing into the pan over these, jump right into the trap. Poison should never be used about bee hives, or where honey is kept, as it is too dangerous.
_Ants._ Many inquiries are received asking for information about destroying ants, which are a considerable bother in the apiary at times. As a rule, not much harm is done by them, but they are annoying about the hives. Of these there are several kinds, mostly the smaller ones, that try to get some of the honey, but do not attack the bees. It is only in rare cases that some of the larger varieties are destructive to bees. They can easily be killed with bisulphide of carbon after hunting up their nests. A deep hole is made in the nest with a crow-bar and a tea-cup full of bisulphide of carbon is poured into it, and then covered up and packed tightly with earth. For the smaller kinds it is only necessary to make a hole with a small stick for the bisulphide of carbon, and it may often be poured right on the nests and earth firmly packed over it, as the fumes penetrate into the soil and go downward. It is a mistake to set fire to the bisulphide of carbon in treating ant nests, as many persons do, because the fumes are then burnt up and the effectiveness of the remedy lost. Common gasoline, kerosene, or even hot water, may be used effectively in some cases.
It is not advisable to use poisons to kill ants about the apiary or in the honey house, and should never be attempted.
_Skunks._ The depredations of this little animal are sometimes quite serious. They scratch on the front of the hives, and devour the bees as they come out to investigate the cause of the disturbance. When hives are found, in front of which the grass, weeds and soil are scratched away, and quantities of partly chewed masses of bees are found, it is a sure sign that skunks are bothering the hives.
As these marauders repeat their visits continuously the colonies are weakened considerably, so that some colonies may succumb entirely on account of their weakened condition. They may be best destroyed by trapping them. By partly burying an egg in the ground near the apiary where the skunks depredate and setting a spring steel trap over this they may be easily caught. A little stryehnine stirred in an egg will poison them, but great care should be taken to prevent undesirable results that may be caused by using poisons.
_Birds._ Birds are often accused of doing more damage than is perhaps committed by them. Usually reports of their depredations are greatly exaggerated, and frequently are entirely false. In queen-rearing yards the damage may be enhanced by the birds catching the queens while they are out to mate. Oceasionally a bird of the in-sectivorous kind may acquire the habit of eating bees. The king-bird is reported as doing most of such damage. Therefore, it does not become necessary to make a general warfare against all the birds if only a few individuals are the guilty ones. Whenever it is certain that a bird persists in this habit he should be promptly killed. On the whole, however, birds should receive the beekeeper's protection, as their services in destroying harmful insects are far more valuable than the little damage done by a few birds eating a small number of bees.
_Spiders._ There are a number of varieties of spiders that build their nests about hives, and the bees becoming entangled in the webs,are lost. The only remedy is not to have any openings, or crevices, near the entrances of the hives, in which spiders may harbor. Webs should be removed and the spiders destroyed, whenever opportunity offers, while performing the work in the apiaries.
_Robber Flies._ Occasionally large robber flies destroy bees by catching them while in the air. These flies suek the juices from the bees and then cast the bodies aside to eaten others. Some individuals have been watched and found to catch and suek the juices from as many as seven bees at a time. They are, however, never numerous enough to do any great amount of harm, and there is no remedy whenever they appear in large numbers about the apiary, except to kill them with a long slender paddle or by means of a long switch. They need not be feared, however, even if they do catch a few bees.
_Bee Lice and Mites._ Considerable notice is being given to what is termed the ''bee louse'' which causes considerable bother in Italy, and is sometimes imported with queen bees. It is not present to a serious extent in Texas.
Sometimes mites infest bees, but reports of serious injury done by them is wanting..
Bees lose their vitality, or the stock becomes run down, from long continued inbreeding, and are then more susceptible to the ravages of diseases and enemies. Therefore, the introduction of new blood will greatly aid in overcoming these obstacles and this should be encouraged.
Unlike the long chapters on this subject in nearly all the text books and other publications, the chapter on wintering bees in the South is the shortest in this bulletin. This is because the wintering problem needs no serious consideration other than to see that the bees are well housed in good, tight hives and are supplied with a sufficient supply of honey for their winter food.
Preparation of the colonies should begin early in the fall of the year, seeing that each colony has the necessary amount of stores, at least 30 to 40 pounds of honey, in the combs of the brood chamber and in close proximity to the brood nest. More honey will be better, especially if the winter season happens to be a long one. It will not be lost or wasted if not needed, but will aid materially in the production of large quantities of brood during the early spring months, which means rousing colonies of bees later when the honey flow begins. These are the colonies from which the largest amount of surplus honey may be expected. It pays, therefore, to have them provided with honey enough to last, not only through the winter months, but far into the spring. It is at this time that large quantities of honey are needed on account of the excessive brood rearing and the building up of the colonies.
No special protection to the hives is necessary if the apiary is located as described in the chapter, ''Loeating the Bees in the Apiary.'' If they are very much exposed to the winds and weather, it is advisable to provide some temporary protection on the north side. Simply placing wide boards against the hives at this place will answer.
## Chapter 134 Texas Department of Agriculture.
### 134.1 Educational.
In this day of specialization, it is necessary for one to master the methods of application and management needful for success in any particular line it is decided to follow, and bekeeping is not an exception to the rule. The man who devotes his whole time to this pursuit can not expect to succeed without knowing how to properly conduct apiaries and obtain large crops of honey and sell same to advantage. Beekeeping, today, does not only require a general knowledge of keeping bees and producing a honey crop; but, to make the venture a successful one, it is necessary that a thorough knowledge of business requirements be possessed. It should be remembered that it is one thing to produce a large crop of honey and another to sell it profitably. Some people take naturally to the business, having a special aptitude for it, while others with more or less difficulty educate themselves to meet its requirements. For the determined person, in either instance, it can be truly said there is assured success, provided the location is good and misfortune is not encountered that is beyond human control.
## 135 Field meetings.
One of the most effective steps toward inspiring the interest of beekeepers in their work, is the coming together of two or more individuals and the discussion by them of the various practical topics in which they are directly interested. For this reason visiting among beekeepers is to be encouraged. A visit to a neighboring beekeeper may result in bringing up questions that might not have been thought of otherwise, and the same may be said of a visitor entertained at one's own door. Exchanging views on beekeeping subjects has a tendency to clarify ideas and to enable one to see things in a better light. The beginner, or amateur, coming in contact with the more experienced, or older members of the craft, is certain to learn fromthem much of value. It frequently happens, also, not only to the younger inexperienced, but even those advanced in years, that they will gain knowledge of little things that they can turn to good account in their operations.
One of the most pleasurable ways in which these educational features may be enhanced is by holding what is termed "field meetings." These gatherings are usually at some centrally located apiary, where beekeepers from the surrounding territory assemble for the purpose of social enjoyment and educational benefit. It is not a necessary condition precedent to good results that these meetings shall be attended by a large number of beekeepers. Even if there are only a few of them in the territory, much may be accomplished by such gatherings. It is hoped that such field meetings will be encouraged in the various parts of this State. These being generally held, would mean much for the betterment of agricultural conditions, both from a financial and a social standpoint.
Beekeepers' associations.
Another important matter is that of attending beekeepers' conventions. They are of utmost importance, for there is no other place at which the various subjects, in which beekeepers are interested, can be threshed out so satisfactorily. There is not only submission, discussion and dissemination of knowledge pertaining to keeping bees and the production and marketing of crops of honey, but there is afforded opportunity to formulate co-operative action, that can be later carried into effect to the great advantage of all concerned. Conventions, too, mean the forming of associations; associations mean organization and organization means greater certainty of success. It is hoped that we may find beekeepers' associations more common in the large fields in this State. For some reason the interest has waned in this respect during the last few years. Whereas there were as many as eight different beekeepers' associations ten years ago, there are only two active associations now. The Texas Bekeepers' Association, which is the State association, is the larger of the two. Its regular annual meetings are held at College Station, Texas, during the time of the meeting of the Texas Farmers' Congress, of which it is an affiliated section. The meetings are generally held during the summer vacations of the College--a most suitable time, since the student rooms in the various dormitories can be used for those in attendance, free of any cost. It is also possible, with the large mess hall facilities, to take care of the large numbers in attendance, at a nominal cost for meals. It is hoped that greater interest will be shown during coming years in increasing the attendance and the membership of this organization. The annual dues are $1 a year. This charge includes membership in the National Beekeepers' Association, which the members of the Texas Bekeepers' Association join in a body at 50c per member. This association is a national organization, and its objects are to increase and further the welfare of beekeepers in general, and to protect its members at the same time. Besides this, a reduction has been allowed to members of the association, on the subscriptions to the various bee journals. Itssecretary, W. T. Childress, Batesville, Texas, will give any further information desired. Information regarding the National Beekeepers' Association may be obtained from the secretary, E. B. Tyrell, 230 Woodland Ave., Detroit, Mich.
## Exhibiting at FAIRS
Few beekeepers fully realize the benefits that may be derived from exhibiting at fairs. Exhibitions of bees, apiary products, hives, and the various appliances needed, give the beekeepers an opportunity to show the vastness of the industry, and to favorably advertise their business. Such displays create interest among the mass of people who visit the fairs, and thus open a way to a market for the beekeepers' products. Too few of our beekeepers take advantage of fairs, but the time is looked for in the very near future when beekeepers' exhibits will be more in evidence at them. This subject should receive more attention.
Very creditable beekeepers' exhibits have been made at the larger fairs during the last few years; but, even these should have received more attention from the majority of Texas beekeepers. It is encouraging to note that local fairs, at various places, have had good displays of this kind in recent years.
## Books on beekeeping
The average uninformed person has a mistaken idea regarding the magnitude of the beekeeping industry, believing it to be of minor importance. This is illustrated by the following remark made not long ago: ''Why, beekeeping is getting to be a great thing these days. There is even a book published on bees!'' The fact is, the list of books on the subject of beekeeping is a large one. There are a number of ancient books upon this subject. One in the author's library, ''The True Amazons, or the Monarchy of Bees,'' an English work by James Warder, bears the date of March 12, 1721.
The value of good books on beekeeping is inestimable. Supplying himself with one or more of them should be the first item on a beginner's purchasing list when making a start. The experienced beekeeper will not be without them, and there are many who have very complete libraries of publications pertaining to apiculture.
The following is a list of practical books on beekeeping:
A B C & X Y Z of Bee Culture. By A. I. Root and E. R. Root. A most widely read work on apiculture and encyclopedia of information for amateurs and professional beekeepers alike. 576 pages; price, $1.50.
How to Keep Bees. By Anna Botsford Comstock. A eharmingly written manual, especially for amateurs, describing all the necessary details of beekeeping. 228 pages; price, $1.
Fifty Years Among the Bees. By Dr. C. C. Miller. A most popular book written by one of the most widely known writers on the subject. 352 pages; price, $1.
Manual of the Apiary. By Prof. A. J. Cook. A very complete treatise on bees and beekeeping, particularly valuable to those inter ested in the anatomy and physiology of the bees. 540 pages; price, $1.15.
Langstroth on the Honey Bee. By C. P. Dadant. It has a vast fund of information on all subjects relating to practical bee culture. 575 pages; price, $1.25.
Advanced Bee Culture. By W. Z. Hutehinson. Although a most valuable book for the advanced beekeeper, the beginner will find it exceedingly helpful. 200 pages; price, $1.
Doolittle's Queen Rearing. By G. M. Doolittle. It is practically the only comprehensive book on queen rearing. 124 pages; price, 75c.
Quinby's New Beekeepering. By L. C. Root. Of especial interest to those who want to know the early work on beekeepering. 270 pages; price, $1.
Amerikanische Bienenencht. By Hans Buschbauer. A beekeeper's handbook in the German language. 138 pages; price, $1.
Southern Bee Culture. By J. J. Wilder. A treatise on beekeping in the South. 145 pages; price, 50e.
A Modern Bee Farm. By S. Simmins. Written by an English beekeeper acquainted with American methods. 430 pages; price, $2.
How to Keep Bees for Profit. By D. Everett Lyon. This is one of the newer books on the subject. 330 pages; price, $1.10.
Practical Bee Guide. By J. E. Digges. A guide to the beekeping industry of Ireland. 220 pages; price, $1.20.
British Beekeeper's Guide Book. By T. W. Cowan. This is the leading work on practical beekeeping in England. 245 pages; price, $1.
The Honey Bee. By T. W. Cowan. A work on the natural history, anatomy and physiology of bees. 220 pages; price, $1.
Wax Craft. By T. W. Cowan. An extensive treatise on beeswax, 180 pages; price, $1.
FIRST Lessons in Beekeepering. By C. P. Dadant. A new revision of the old book by Thos. Newman. 200 pages; price, 50e.
For those who prefer to have a book treating the subject of beekeeping in the German language, we recommend the German edition of the "A B C & X Y Z of Bee Culture, " and "'Amerikanische Bienenenacht." The former is also published in Freneh.
There are a number of popular works on bee culture, written for the most part by writers of literary ability, which are very interesting and valuable.
The Bee People. By Miss Margaret W. Morley. Written especially for children, but interesting to older persons. 190 pages; price, $1.50.
The Children's Story of the Bee. By S. L. Bensusan. Although written for children, it is an interesting and entertaining volume. 250 pages; price, $2.
The Honey Makers. By Miss Margaret W. Morley. The story of the life of the bee written in very interesting style. 424 pages; price, $1.50.