BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
The _Shallow-frame Box_, or surplus chamber (Fig. 6) is an exact counterpart of loud-box with two exceptions: first, the depth is reduced by \(3\) in, : second, the front and back boards are only \(15^{
rac{1}{8}}_{8}\) in, long. The capacity of this box is ten shallow-frames \(5^{
rac{1}{8}}_{8}\) in, deep, with ordinary cuts, and two thin slips of wool, or eight similar frames fitted with wide 'W, B, C.' ends.
Figure 5: Body-box.
\[\left(egin{array}{cc}62&\end{array}
ight)\]
stand by an amateur joiner of ordinary intelligence. For myself, I will garbage no labour of nine if it will help to make the'W. I. C.' live properly and easily understood. When the description and drawings of the live first appeared in print I at once detected a few slips, easily remedied by a practical joiner; but the thing most needed was sectional drawings to explain things without so many detailed measurements. I therefore say, Why cannot the'W. I. C.' live be made as plan as A B C? _It shall?_
Robert Peebles,
\[\left(egin{array}{cc}64&\end{array}
ight)\]
bottom of the outer case, and fit two pieces to slide in the groove. For the _gorch_, cut two small brackets, and nail on a board \(ar{1}9^{
rac{1}{2}}_{
rac{1}{2}}\) in. long by 4 in, wide.
_Bordj-box_ (_or \(Bordj\)-chamber_)--Take the four pieces of the lobster-box measuring \(ar{1}
rac{1}{2}\) in, by 20 in, cut two pieces \(ar{5}
rac{7}{8}\) in, by 17\(
rac{1}{8}\) in, and two pieces \(ar{5}
rac{1}{2}\) in, by 16 in, the latter to be chamfered on the top edge. Nail these at equal distances from each end of the longer pieces, so that the inside measurement is 14\(
rac{1}{2}\) by 16 in.
This is important. The space to the end of the side pieces can be filled up with the pieces cut off in reducing, nailing them a little lower than the chamfered edge to form a finger-hold ; and two other pieces about 2 in, wide, nailed up to the end to keep the frames in position, finishes the body-box.
_Lift_.--Take one of the 6-in, pieces of the egg-box, and make another bottomless box, the same outside measurement as the outer case of the body-box, but with plinths nailed on all round.
_Rof_.--Cut two pieces from the side of the egg-box, 20 in, long and 4 in, wide ; also two other pieces, 6\(
rac{3}{4}\) in, by 10\(
rac{5}{8}\) in. Mark the centre of the latter, and cut off slanting to 4 in, deep on each side ; then nail the four pieces together. For the top, use the two sides \[\left(egin{array}{cc}65&\end{array}
ight)\]
of a 'Quaker Outs' box, measuring 1 ft, by 2 ft., and a further piece 2 in, wide, nailed along the ridge, to prevent any wet getting through the join. This will fit over the lift or body-box, and, to prevent it going too far down, four small strips should be nailed inside, about \(
rac{1}{3}\) in. from the bottom.
**How to BUILD A BEE-HOUSE.**
By '\(\Lambda\) Worker Bee.'
For details of construction to accompany the sketch-plan sent, I am afraid that I should find it an easier job to build the house than tell how it should be done. I say this because I am more used to handling tools than the pen, so please correct mistakes. First then we take the _floor_ :--(1.) Get two lengths of \(\prec\)tuff 7 ft. \(10
rac{1}{3}\) in, by 4 in, by 2 in, : mark off 2 in, from each end for mortise 1 in, thick in centre of 4 in, way. (2.) Next take two pieces 5 ft. \(10
rac{1}{3}\) in, by 4 in,
by 2 in, mark 2 in, off each end ; cut tenon to fit morties. Knock together. (3.) Get two pieces of hatten 1\(
rac{3}{3}\) in, by \(
rac{3}{3}\) in, : nail on inside bottom edge to take the ends of middle jost. Cut three + in, by 2 in, to fit between, so that the top edges come level : fastest all firmly together. Keep all rounding edges upward. (4.) Give a coat of black varnish all over. Lay on \(
rac{1}{3}\) in, by 1 in, tonguel and grooved square-edge matchboards and faston same down. We now come to the _front_ :--(5.) Take two pieces 2 in, by 2 in, red deal 6 ft. long ; mark off 2 in, each end and one 2 in, in centre, and mortise same, then take three rails 2 in, by 2 in, 7 ft. \(10
rac{1}{3}\) in, ; tenon these ends ;
\[(\quad 6\pi\quad)\]
unhooked. Nail on \(
rac{3}{4}\)-in. matehoards, letting them project over the frame \(
rac{2}{4}\) in. each way.
Be careful that an extra rafter is placed \(4\) in, from each end of frame, and that the roof-boarding is only fastened to this so that the roof may be lifted off if required for the purpose of shifting. Nail \(
rac{3}{4}\)-in, boards on back, well pointing tonques and grooves wherever the wood bears against rails. Repeat these directions with the end opposite door, except that the last board on each side must be _screened_, and on no account must the boards be nailed to joists. For _front_ get a \(4\) ft, long by \(2\) ft, \(10\) in. high, \(3\) in. by \(
rac{21}{2}\) in. _cascenient_ or window frame, hung in centre on pivots so as to swing the ash round easily.
Rebate it round the thickness of board ; fix in centre of top half ; board it round. The end for door is made in the same way, except that the two outside boards are screwed.
It will then be seen that the frame of house rests with bottom- rails on floor ; framework to be made so that the outside of frame is flush with outside of floor. The \(
rac{3}{4}\)-in. boards will then cover frame and sides of joists, and also keep the whole thing rigid. The floor carries the whole weight of house.
If constructed like this, one will be able to take the house to pieces for moving if required. The door is made to suit opening, fitted with rim-lock, and hung with \(1\)-in. T-hinges. _Thoor is shown as opening inwards in sketch, but it might be more conveniently
Figure 3: Section at A. B.
spened outwards to give extra-room: Under the window inside fix a bench, as shown, consisting of three widths of 7-in. by 1-in. tougued matchboards : under this two shelves, as shown, are made of \(1
rac{3}{2}\)-in. by \(
rac{3}{4}\)-in. battems ; nail on to ledges, leaving a space between each batten; fix bottom shelf 3 in. above floor, the other railway ; fill up space from bottom shelf to floor with strip of wood; hung two long narrow doors to close openings between shelf ; fit them nicely, and when complete this makes a good place to keep extracting-framos and sections; a few balls of naphthalene are placed under bottom shelf ; fix shelves to back on brackets ; make all inside fixtures removable.
In corner fix up a small platform 1 ft. high, 24 in. square, for extractor to stand on. Two brackets of wood 2-in. by 1-in. are next wanted. Ilinge them on to a piece of 2-in, by 1-in. stuff, and screw this against lack, letting one be an inch higher than the other, and fixing them about 3 ft. 10 in. apart. Then get a piece of white wood 4 ft. 6 in. hung by 17 in. wide, and in this make \(V\)-grooves 2 in. apart, cut lengths. Screw some small brass plates on its edge. When done, place this on the brackets for a draining-board to stand boxes of shallow frames on after being through the extractor. It can also be used as an 'uncapping-stand.' Cover the draining-board with a couple of coats of pure shellae varnish, and then it will be able to be kept clean with little trouble.
Figure 4:Stoe View.
(!!!! )
## Short Rules
for the general management of moveable-comb lives.
### 1.-SPRING.
During favourable weather at the end of March, take the opportunity of examining and ascertaining the condition of every hive. Contract the size of the hive with division-boards, so that the bees have only as many combs as they can occupy. Examine each comb as it is removed, and ascertain the presence of the queen. If she has commence! to lay, she may be further stimulated by uncapping some of the honey-cells. Gentle feeding, either with syrup or soft canly, should also be resorted to if the bocs are likely to run short of food. If the colony is found queenless, unite it to one having a fertile queen. Should the queen be a drone-broeder, she should be destroyed, and the bees united to another colony. Keep the hives well covered and warn, and disturb as little as possible. Take care only to open on warm days, so as not to chill the brood. As brood increases and the hive gets crowded with bees, breeding may be further stimulated by spreading the brood very cautiously, and continue gentle feeding with liquid food. It is better to give the food at night, to prevent robbing; also, for the same reason, open hive-entrances only in proportion to the strength of the colony. When warn weather induces frequent flights, provide a drinking-trough for the bocs, and iinuluce then to visit this by adding a little honey and salt to the water. Where natural pollen is scarce, give pea-flour, etc., as long as the bees will take it. As breeding and the strength of colonies increase, add frames with empty comb or comb-foundation. It takes about six weeks to build up a colony of sufficient strength to take advantage of an early flow of honey. Prepare for queen-rearing early in April, according to the instructions given in the _British Bee-keeper's Guide Book_. In the beginning of May, if the weather be favourable, the extra packing used for winter may be removed, and the frames and bees transferred to a clean hive. This alone, the hive dealt with is cleaned and dried thoroughly, then used for the next stock operated on, until all are gone through. Continue gentle feeling until the incoming honey exceeds the daily consumption. Be on the look-out for foil brood, and if present commence treatment as directed in _Guide Book_ without delay. Only change hives as directed above where all stocks are known to be healthy.
II.--SUMMER.
Prepare packs of sections for use by putting comb-foundation in the boxes, and when the bees begin to store honey in large quantities put on another rack of sections below the first. As fast as any of the sections on the top are completed, they should be removed and stored away in crates. Two or even three racks of sections may be worked at the same time. Towards the close of the season the sections may be finished off in one rack. To prevent the bees swarming, give them additional room in advance of their requirements. Should the bees persist in swarming, remove all the combs, give frames of comb-foundation, and return the swarm; this will generally stop the swarming fever, and not interrupt the work in the sections. Put shallow-frame supers on those colonies intended for extracting, and extract at suitable intervals. Make artificial swarms if required, and check swarming by cutting out queen-cells, extracting honey, and removing frames of brood.
III.--AUUMN.
Examine all lives, feel when necessary, and unite all weak colonies. Introduce questions to juveniles stocks, and if necessary to reduce the number of frames, leave only as many as the \[\left(egin{array}{c}i\ \end{array}
ight)\]
does can well crowd, and close up with division hazards. About 25 to 30 pounds of food is sufficient for the bees to winter on, all of which beyond 5 or 6 pounds should be sealed over. Make passages over the frames by adopting any of the plans recommended in the _Guide Book_. Place warm coverings above frames, and reduce the size of entrances. Prepare honey for market, sort the sections into first and second quality, and put into crates holding twelve to twenty-four. Put the extracted honey as soon as possible into jars, before it begins to granulate, and label neatly.
It cannot be too strongly impressed on the minds of all who keep bees for profit, that one of the main factors in insuring success is the thorough preparation of all stocks in autumn for the work of the following year. This means making sure that every colony is headed by a prolific queen. has plenty of bees, a full supply of scaled stores, and is housed in a dry, rainproof hive.
Second swarms, or casts, hired late in the summer are often found weak in bees when examined in autumn ; in such cases 2 or 3 pounds of bees, driven from swarmed skeps, are of the greatest service when added in autumn, and generally make the best and strongest stocks the following year.
In considering the important bearing of autumn bee-work, if well done, on the success or otherwise of the following year, and the increasing favour with which the custom of building up stocks from driven bees is now regarded, it may be well to strongly advise those who adopt this method of increase to go about it in the right way. To begin with, each new colony formed must have about + pounds of healthy bees and a young queen. Ifive them on four frames fitted with full sheets of foundation (wired) and twin frames of ready-built combs, if available, the latter being placed on the outside of the foundation. This done, about 15 rounds of can sugar, made into good thick strips, will be required, and must be given warm in a rapid-feeder, renewing the supply as required, and always giving the food at nightfall after the bees have ceased flying for the day. Cover the feeder well, in order to maintain the warmth and keep the bees busy comb-buildingduring the cool nights of autumn ; it will also enable them to seal the cells as filled. Not only so, but if operations are commenced by the middle of August, a good batch of brood will be reared before cold weather sets in, thus securing the advantage of autumn-bred bees, which are invaluable for early work the following year. On the other hand, driven bees are of far less value when obtained in late autumn, and cannot be expected to do well unless lived on fully built-out combs.
IV.--WINTER.
It properly attended to in the autumn, the bees ought not to be disturbed until the spring. Shade the entrances of hives, and prevent the sun's rays entering to entice the bees to come out. Guard against the attack of birds and mice. Clean and prepare hives for spring use, and purchase or make any new apparatus required, so as to be in readiness in the spring. Iooil up old combs and extract wax.
Should feeling have been neglected in the autumn, place a good-sized cake of soft candy above feel-hole in quilts, or under the quilt over the cluster of bees.
For full information upon working Moveable-Comb Hives, read and study the _British Bee-keeper's Guide Book_, by the same author.
As a knowledge of the natural history and habits of the honey bee is of the greatest assistance to the bee-keeper in his practiel work, he is recommended during the winter months to study _The Hunega Bee ; its Natural History, Anatomy, and Physiology_, by the same author.
London : Printed by Strasbouras and Sons, Tower Street, Cambridge Circus, W.C.
Its Natural History, Anatomy, and Physiology.
**By T. W. COWAN, F.L.S., &c., &c.**
_Thoroughty Reutsct and brought Up to Date._
Illustrated with Seventy-three Figures of One Hundred and Thirty-eight Illustrations.
In \({}^{*}\)Art' Covers, price **2s. 6d.** ; postage 3d. to any part of the Postal Union.
The British Bee Journal
_Established 1873._
Edited by T. W. COWAN, F.L.S., F.R.M.S., &c.,
and W. BROUGHTON CARR.
PUBLISHED EVERY THURSDAY. PRICE ONE PENNY.
SUBSCRIPTION:
One Year, **6s. 6d.** Six Months, **3s. 3d.** Post free, home and abroad.
Posted in time for delivery with morning letters.
The Bee-keepers' Record
_Established 1852._
(Conducted by W. BROUGHTON CARR.)
PUBLISHED MONTHLY. PRICE TWOENCE.
**2s. 6d.** per Annum. Post free, home and abroad.
_Both the above may be ordered at all Railway Booksstalls._
[http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003100306](http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003100306)
## Appendix A Albert R. Mann
Comeil University
Everett Franklin Phillips
Beekeeping library
A WORD TO THE BEEEKEPERS.
For this system or theory of housing bees I am making no extravagant claims, and had no thought of giving the public the result of my study and experiments until I had given them a test of a few more years, but the present necessity for increased production makes it the first duty of every person to stimulate in every way that he can this production; and if this system proves to be that will-of-the-wisp that the beekeepers have been chasing, a conclusion will be reached sooner than could be by my individual effort.
--ED. H. CLARK.
## 1.2. Constructive Beekeepering
Commercial beekeeping has for its object the production of the maximum quantity of well ripened honey at a minimum of cost. Swarming adds greatly to the cost of producing honey. Most methods of swarm-prevention have in them the element of destructiveness. Ventilating, removing the queen, shaking the bees, removing the brood, exchanging brood-bodies, loosening the cover, all destroying something that the bees have done, or adding to the work to be done in the hive.
Let me state here that you are not going to be told that absolute swarm-prevention is a possibility, nor will you be told that honey can be produced by absent treatment. What you will get from a good understanding of the following pages is that the beekeeper who takes advantage of the laws relating to condensation of vapor, and follows where the bees have been leading will have advanced one step nearer the swarmless bee.
Instead of going to the hive and telling the bees (by manipulations) "don't do this"; say to them "keep all your brood, keep your queen, keep the cold damp air out of the hive and I will make your hive so perfect a condenser of water vapor that the work of evaporating water from the nectar will be done quickly." We will bring team-work into play, and each get the benefit of every advantage gained.
Constructive beekeeping helps by getting the honey ripened quickly each night and stored out of the way of the queen. The hive will then be maintained in such a condition that the bees have the greatest amount of comfort in relation to the results produced.
## 1.3. Efficiency
Familiarity with the bees makes a person wonder where the mule got his reputation for stubbornness. We must, when we work with bees, follow where they lead if we want satisfactory results.
They generally know what they want and fight to do it in their own way.
The bee is an economical "fellow." Efficiency is his last name. For ages before our time he has been working at the same task that he has brought to such perfection. The bees that have excited the amazement and wonder of the world as builders of geometric comb, with all its economy and strength, the bees that make from the nectar of the flowers the honey, that is the superlative of all things sweet and good; have not stopped with these two achievements, but have maintained a marvel with- in their home, which, when understood, will amaze us more than ever.
The bees collect propolis (despised by the beekeeper) and with infinite work and a knowledge of the laws of condensation cf moisture, have varnished the inside, sealed all openings that would give upper ventilation, making out of their home a perfect condenser for the water vapor that has filled the hive air by evaporation from the nectar. This moisture they collect from the inside surface of the hive, works right in with their idea of economy, saving the carrying of water from the stream or spring.
## 2. Co-operation
One great discovery in beekeeping was the beespace. When this space was within the limits that conform to what instinct told them was best, peace between the beekeeper and his bees was established along this line.
A similar misunderstanding is on at the present time about the best way to get rid of the moisture in the hive. The bees, from the habits and customs, carried down for ages, contending that condensation is the system best adapted to their mode of life, while the beekeeper is trying to force them to use the ventilating system. I think that the beekeeper, being a most sensible person, will see the error of his way and eventually follow where the bee leads. The bees but show their contempt for ventilation when it is at its best.
## Urge
Swarming is the breaking in two of a populous colony of bees for the reproduction of the colony. Other swarming need not be considered here.
The confusion of conceptions which arises in the mind when the term swarm-prevention is mentioned, has to a great extent, been a hindrance to logical reasoning on this subject. At mention of the word swarm, there is conjured up from the background of our minds, the exciting and spectacular scenes we have seen enacted around the aipary. What we want to prevent not the birth but the conception. We must go even prior to this and prevent the primal urge. To avoid confusion and give reason and logic an opportunity to work, unhampered by visions conjured up at mention of the word swarm, the word urge will be used here to refer to the initial starting point of the swarming impulse.
The urge is the direct result of the actual or apparent failure of the queen.
With the exception of a young queen in the hive, all other methods of urge prevention have to do with room for the queen to lay. Give the queen plenty of room to lay and swarms are reduced. Give the colony plenty of ventilation and you have fewer swarms. Young queen, and shade in the afternoons, reduce swarming. Room, ventilation, shade in the afternoon, and young queen have given the best results so far obtained.
## Conditions.
What has puzzled the beekeeper is that results obtained by the same treatment year after year have not been the same. Nor have the same results been obtained by similar treatments in different localities. Bees always respond to similar treatment under like conditions by giving uniform results. The beekeepers' trouble is that he makes his treatments uniform but not his conditions. Conditions include all of the following things:
1. Temperature.
2. Direction and velocity of the wind.
Moisture in the air.
* 4 Depth of evaporation.
* 5 Sunshine.
* 6 Altitude.
* 7 Number of bees.
* 8 Fertility and vigor of the queen.
* 9 Number of worker cells in the hive.
* 10 Size of entrance.
* 11 Construction of hive.
* 12 Fit of hive parts and cover.
* 13 Radiating surface on inside walls of the hive.
* 14 Number of honey and pollen-producing plants.
* 15 The amount of water in the nectar.
To show how much harder bees would have to fan at the entrance to ripen honey in some localities than in others, if they ripened it altogether by ventilation, the depth of evaporation in inches, taken from a map of the Weather Bureau, is here given:
* 25 inches, Ontario, Canada.
* 35 inches, Massachusetts.
* 30 inches, Ohio, Northern part.
* 50 inches, Illinois, Southern part.
* 50 inches, Texas, Central part.
* 60 to 100 inches, Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona and most of California.
From this will readily be seen the different conditions under which the bees do their work in different localities, due to only one of the conditions previously mentioned. It is apparent that similar treatments, as regards ventilation, cannot give uniform results in all these places.
To make the treatments as near uniform as possible and get like results under these different atmospheric conditions, we must follow the way of the bees and make the hive a condenser instead of a ventilator.
## Room
To look at the question of room and apply constructive treatment is our aim. If the hive room is large, good results do not elways follow. So much thought has been put into the experiments carried out with different sizes of hives, that the majority of beekeepers have settled on a standard size, which is best under most conditions. Some advocate one a little larger, some a little smaller, but neither deviate much from the recognized standard. So we must conclude that the bees and their keeper do not disagree greatly on the size of the hive.
During the urge period the attention of the beekeeper has mostly been given to brood rearing. To get best results he must have the hive filled with bees at the beginning of the honey flow. He knows that swarming results when the hive is full of brood, nectar, honey and bees, so he increases the size of the hive.
As the lack of room is not the result of one condition, but of many, the added room may be more than the bees can heat. Our aim then must be to determine that nice balance between too much and too little room, ventilation and shade. On the correct determination of this balance our success depends.