BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
Buying Nuclei.Buying a nucleus, which is merely a small colony on from one to five combs (a full colony covers from six to ten combs), is a common method of beginning, and it is not so expensive at the start as buying a full colony. A nucleus of two frames, with about a quart of bees, will soon build up into a full colony if there is plenty of nectar and pollen for the bees to begin harvesting at once, or if properly fed with sugar syrup. In buying a nucleus it is not safe to take every man's word for the condition of the bees unless the seller is known to be reliable. Be sure that he is so, for there is danger of getting poor bees, a poor queen, and disease when buying bees in this way. The beginner should keep in mind that a nucleus difers from a colony (full colony) o n1 y in the number of bees. The size of nuclei is designat-ed as one-frame, t w o - f r a m e, t h r e e-f r a m e, f o u r-frame or five-frame nuclei, as the amount of bees in the nucleus may be sufficient to cover o n e, t w o, three, four or five frames. The one-f r a m e nucleus with frame and shipping Taking bees from a nucleus shipping case and putting them in a hive.
box will weigh from four to seven pounds, and the five-frame from 20 to 28 pounds (shipping weight). These nuclei can be bought from any reliable bee-breeder (although bees are now being more and more sold in packages). They are ordinarily shipped by express in a nucleus shipping case or nucleus box, but they may be shipped in a full-sized hive. Directions for caring for the bees on arrival accompany all shipments, and these should be carefully followed. A division-board may well be used at the side of the exposed comb. After the bees have been placed in their hive, an additional frame of drawn comb or foundation should be put in as soon as the comb in the nucleus frame has become filled with brood and stores, and there are plenty of bees to cover the brood. This giving of additional frames of drawn comb or foundation should be continued until the hive is filled. If there are only one or two frames of bees the entrance should be contracted to one or two inches in width; and, if the weather is cool, the entrance should not be more than 3% of an inch deep. If the bees of a nucleus are received in a hive instead of in a nucleus box or shipping case, at once place the hive in its permanent position, and, after smoking the bees, carefully remove the screen from over the entrance, allowing the bees a chance for flight. Also loosen and remove the screen covering the top and put on the regular cover. The floor of the hive is fastened on with hrads or nails which can be taken out if desired. When the bees have become quiet the combs may be examined to see if they contain brood in all stages of development as well as eggs, thus indicating that the colony has a normal queen. (See page 57.) It is not necessary to find the queen to know that she is in the hive, since the presence of worker eggs tells us she has been there within three days. If no eggs are seen in the cells, and the bees are starting the large cells known as queen-cells (see page 57), one may be sure that the queen is missing. Sometimes the queen is not readily found. She may be only a little larger than the worker bees or she may be nervous and inclined to hide. In such cases her presence may be recognized only by her egg-laying and the absence of any queen-cells. If the queen is missing, one must at once be secured for the nucleus and introduced immediately. (See page 58). If the bees are short of stores in the combs, give them a little sugar syrup (see page 59), which will serve as stimulative feeding to encourage breeding. Do not let them starve. (See page 59.)
Buying Swarms.Buying a good-sized swarm of bees from a neighboring beekeeper, or finding such a swarm at large which nobody claims, and capturing it, is, perhaps, in the majority of instances, the most satisfactory method of getting a start. (Don't confuse swarms with colonies. A swarm is a family of bees which has left the parent hive to seek a new home.) When buying swarms from some beekeeper, arrangement should be made for the purchase of them in advance. Empty hives may be left with the beekeeper for hiving the swarms when they issue from his colonies. The beginner can then get his bees at his own convenience. As a swarm almost invariably is accompanied by a queen, the purchase of a swarm provides for the complete stocking of a hive. If the beginner has decided on a trial of beekeping because of the finding of some stray swarm clustering somewhere on his premises, let him shake the swarm from their clustering place into a sack (an ordinary grain-sack or cleaned phosphate sack will do), or shake it into a box and cover the same; then take the swarm to a hive made ready and dump the bees in front of the entrance, being sure to have provided an easy way for the bees to crawl up into the entrance. The bees will quickly find their way into the hive and at once adopt it as their own home, provided, of course, that the queen enters, which she ordinary does. No bees work with so great energy as do those of a prime swarm (which is the first swarm of the season to issue from a colony); therefore the method of buying a swarm or capturing one is, perhaps, the most economical and satisfactory way of all for the novice to begin bekeeping; but, unless the swarms are secured early in the season, they are not likely to produce surplus honey the first year.
Buying Bees by the Pound.Buying bees by the pound is another way for the beginner to start. This is not an easy way, though inexpensive. Too small a package should not be purchased--never less than two pounds. Bees can be bought in this way from any regular bee-rearer. They are shipped in what is known- as a combless package, which is a specially devised box with arrangement for feeding the bees while _en route_ from the bee-rearer to the purchaser. An experienced beekeeper can take half a pound of bees bought. thus and build them up to a full-sized colony during the first season; but a beginner should take nothing less than a two-pound package. The hive that has been selected to receive bees purchased by package should be provided, if possible, with frames containing drawn
combs (that is, combs already built and ready for the bees to work in, not merely frames of foundation), as bees shipped in a combless package increase much more rapidly on drawn combs than on foundation alone. A queen should be purchased to come with the bees. In ordering, be sure, then, to order a queen and have her introduced to the bees before shipment. A bound of bees needs at first about three combs, more being added later as they are needed. Two pounds of bees should be hired on not less than four combs to start with.
Condless packages of bees are accompanied by specific printed directions as to handling them, which directions should be carefully followed.
Buying Bees in Box Hives and Transferring.
Buying bees in an old-fashioned box hive is likely to be an inexpensive way so far as money paid for them is concerned, but likely to be quite difficult for the beginner. In the old-fashioned box hive (often called a "gum" or skeep") the bees build their combs crooked and attach them solidly to the interior. There being no movable frames in this kind of "hive" or box, the only examination that can be made in advance to tell whether the bees and combs are in good condition is by tilting the hive and looking in from below. Having bought bees in box hives, log "gums," or straw "skeps" they must be transferred into movable-frame hives. This should be done during a honey flow when the bees are best-natured and least likely to rob. This transferring is not difficult to do when the old box hive permits the new hive to be fitted securely to it at the top, with no openings left between. But when the box hive is of such odd shape or so dilapidated that this cannot be done, then it may be necessary to employ the following common but difficult way of transferring, which we will explain before giving the easier method.
Before beginning this way of transferring, the beginner must provide himself with as many new hives fully equipped as he has old box hives or "gums." He will need for this work a hammer, a cold-ehisel, a fine-tooth saw, some tacks, a ball of string, a long-shaded knife (a common butcher-knife will do), a box that will fit on top of the box hive without leaving too much space between them through which the bees can escape, and a large board or cover on which to place the combs when cutting them to size to fit the movable frames. He will also require a pair of water to wash his hands and tools frequently, as they will become intolerably stuck up with honey.
A very easy method of transferring in warm weather (which may be used when the new hive can be made to fit on top of the old hive) is to lay the old hive on its side, if this can be done and its combs left perpendicular. Then tear off the upper side of the old hive and place the new hive without its floor on top of it. Any eracks between the two hives should be closed. The new hive should be filled with frames containing full sheets of foundation, and, if possible, one or more old brood-combs darkened with age to tempt the queen to enter the new hive. Even if the old brood-combs are not available and only the frames of foundation can be had, this method will succeed when there is a good honey flow. The bees will not enter and oceupy the new hive when arranged in this way, unless the colony is strong and is able to gather sufficient honey to cause them to need more room. Accordingly, the beginner should not use this easy method of transferring on weak colonies or when the bees are not gathering more honey than they consume. The bees ordinarily will soon begin oceupying the upper story. As soon as the queen is found laying above as she is expected to do, a queen-exeluder is inserted between the two stories. Twenty-one days after the queen has gone into the upper story the brood below will have all emerged except the drone-broad, and the old hive may be removed. If the combs of the old hive contain honey, and no traces of disease, the honey can be fed to the bees and the combs melted up for wax. If the transferring is done during settled warn weather, the bees should go ahead with their work with but little interruption.
No matter what method of transferring be used, if the honey flow stops before the foundation has been drawn out into combs the bees must be fed slowly till this foundation is drawn out; and at the end of twenty-one days, when the lower hive is removed, unless there are five or six pounds of honey in the upper hive, it will be necessary to feed again. There must be a constant supply of food.
Getting Bees from a Bee-tree.
Obtaining a colony from a bee-tree is still another way of beginning with bees. Many a successful beekeeper has made bis start in this way. Knowing that a colony of bees in a tree is only a swarm that has selected a tree for its home. the beginner will understand that the process of seuring the bees in a tree and transferring them to a hive is very much the same as that of transferring from box hives or gums, except when the tree is broken open and the combs crushed when the process is more like that of hiving a swarm. If possible, cut the tree in the spring (if it be necessary at all to cut the tree in order to reach the colony) and before the bees have bad time to multiply greatly or to have much brood. As soon as the tree is down, locate the bees' entrance to the tree and smoke the bees so that they can be handled without fear of stings. Saw into the tree on each side of the entrance and split off enough to expose freely the bees and their combs. Then place the entrance of the new hive as near as possible to most of the bees. Cut out the combs and tie them into the frames as in transferring. With a tin dipper dip up as many bees as possible and empty them before the hive-entrance. The bees will at once commence running into the hive. Now smoke the few bees that are left in the tree and step back so as to be out of the way. All of the flying bees, attracted by the loud humming of the bees entering the hive, will soon enter the new home. At night, when all flying is over, they may be moved to a permanent location. Use the same precaution in moving the hive as has been described in moving a full colony in a hive.
If the tree cannot be cut, a device known as the bees escape may be fitted over or into the opening or entrance which will allow the bees to pass out, but will prevent them from returning. If a hive containing comb is arranged close to the opening on the outside, practically all the bees may be secured in this way, except the queen. If a comb of brood from another colony can be had, it would also be an advantage to give them a little unsealed brood. These bees will probably raise themselves a queen from the brood given them, but it would be much better to introduce a laying queen. In the course of about six weeks most of the bees will be in the new hive. There will be some brood and the queen left in the tree. These may now be destroyed by use of sulphur fumes from the bee-smoker. Then the bee-escape may be removed and the bees in the hive allowed to rob out the honey within the tree. After all the bees and honey are in the new hive, the hive can be removed to the desired location. The beginner must remember that it is necessary to supply the captured bees in the hive with either a comb of brood or with a queen. When a comb of brood is given it will be safest if the beginner select a comb containing eggs.
Bees may be obtained in the same way from the walls of a building in which they have stolen their home.
**WHERE TO LOCATE THE APIARY.**
CHAPTER VI.
Having his outfit and bees, the beginner asks where he shall place these. It is an important consideration.
**Some Shade is Desirable.**
If he lives in the country or in the suburbs, the beginner can do no better than to place the hives in an orehard, right under the trees where the bees can reach the blossoms even when the weather is unfavorable. But remember that too much shade is as bad for bees as for almost all other forms of life. But a little protection from the sun in the hottest part of the day makes the bees more comfortable and less liable to swarm, although the warm sunshine of the early forenoon and the late afternoon is a distinct advantage to the bees. If shrubbery or trees can not be had to afford protection from the midday sun, some cover of boards or other shade material should be provided to protect the hives from the severe heat of the summer noon. In very hot climates such as those of Arizona and New Mexico, sheds are built to shelter the hives from intense heat. It is not uncommon in hot climates for the combs to melt from excessive heat.
**Protection from Cold Winds Important.**
Even more important than providing shade for hives set out in the open yard or field is to provide,protection against the cold prevailing winds. This must be done wherever cold winds are prevalent. A hedge, a woods, a building, or high board fence with one or two inches of space leftbetween the boards will give this all-important protection if located on the windward sides. Leaving a space between the boards of a high fence is advised because a tight-board fence results in the wind jumping it and coming down in a regular blast on the hives, while a high board fence with open spaces left serves to let the wind blast filter through and breaks its force. Hives should face south or east away from prevailing winds.
Location in Towns and Cities.
A beginner living in the city or in a town is naturally perplexed to know where is the best place for his bees. Back yards ("hack lots") are used by large numbers of town beekeepers. In the back yard the hives are within e a s y re a e h of the house and occur by little space. T h e e is one drawback to the back-yard location--the bees may cause some a nn o y an e to neighbors, especially if t h e neighborhood is thickly settled; for at times bees will sting, and most people fear them, and would rather not have them about. To avoid any such trouble, the hives should be placed as far as possible from neighboring residences, sidewalks and ways of traffic, and so placed that a high fence, trees or buildings will necessarily cause the bees to fly high in crossing the streets or alleys close by.
If there is no high fence or hedge, nor even a shed or building, both to direct the flight of the bees and to act as a shelter from cold winds, it is frequently advisable to put the hive in an attic or on some flat roof that is easily accessible. A flat tin roof, especially if painted dark, is apt to be a pretty hot place; and if the hives are placed there some shade will have to be provided, for there is danger of the eombs melting down. There is no objection to the attie location (if not too hot) other than the inconvenience of going up and down stairs, and possible discomfort for the beekeeper in working in eramped quarters. But it is important to have the hives set close to the outside inner walls of the attic, with an entrance for each hive cut through the siding so that the bees may go in and out at any time. These entrances should be marked or diversified in different ways so that the bees may learn the location of their own hives. There should be a window near by to give plenty of light, and this window should be hung on hinges so that it may be swung entirely out of the way or else it should be so arranged that it can be taken out when the colonies are being examined. If this precaution be not taken, those bees that fly from the combs toward the light will merely buzz up and down on the window pane until they die of exhaustion. If there is no glass in the window, the bees will fly toward the light and outdoors and eventually find their way back to the regular outside entrance of the hive. In almost every large city there are bees kept in attics or on the roofs of buildings or in back yards. Colonies of bees have been kept on roofs in the heart of the city of New York, foraging in Central Park.
Many good honey-producing plants are found in vacant lots or along side streets, and sweet clover abounds in the suburbs of many of the large cities and large towns. But it should be understood that only a small number of colonies can be successfully kept in the heart of any large town or city because of the scarcity of forage there.
**Locations That Protect from Stinging**.
Again, remember, if the hive is to be located in the back yard, turn the entrance away from any near-by path or sidewalk or street. As before suggested, this is advised in order that bees in their most direct line of flight shall not come in contact with passers-by or horses, and possibly sting them. In this connection it may be well to observe that nothing makes bees madder than to have man or beast get right in front of their entrance or in their direct line of flight and go through some violent action, such as tennis-playing or rug-beating. Sweaty horses are especially liable to be stung.
**Locations for Extensive Honey Production**.
Perhaps the beginner in beekeeping will not be interested in the question of locating an apiary for the extensive production of honey. But it will be a matter of interest for him to know that, while almost any back lot anywhere in the country will support a few colonies of bees, it takes a locality favored with a plentiful growth of honey plants to make it possible to succeed in extensive production of honey. Besides the bloom of fruit trees and most flowers and plants, the following are particularly important nectar-bearers, some as regular erop-producers and some as aids to spring and fall brood-rearing: White clover, alsike clover, sweet clover, alfalfa,sage, dandelion, orange, blackberry, raspberry, sourwood, gallberry, button-bush, horehound, sumac, cabbage palmetto, tupelo, mustard, basswood, maple, willow, tulip tree, goldenrod, milkweed, fireweed, honest, aster, mesquite, etaselaw, buekwheat and many others. In locating an apiary to secure large crops of honey, the bee-owner should not go where there are already a large number of beekeepers, as the honey pasturage may be insufficient, and he may find his neighbors have impure drones or even diseased colonies that may carry contagion to near-by apiaries. A territory of three or four square miles of very excellent bee-pasturage will well support a hundred colonies. Ordinarily, a larger range will be required for 100 colonies.
For a large apiary a timber range is desirable, or a locality near rivers or streams where abound maple, willow, sumac, linden and other trees and shrubs, or an alfalfa belt, or mountain-sage range. The beekeeper anywhere will do well to remember that moving his apiary only a few miles will in many cases result in a decided increase in the honey crop. This is because the honey plants and kinds of crops grown often differ within a distance of a few miles.
**THE INhabitants OF THE HIVE.**
Having purehased his bees and having his hives located, the beginner may very naturally inquire about the wonderful inhabitants of the bive and what they do.
There are three distinctly different kinds of individuals in each colony of bees: namely, the queen, which is the only perfectly developed female; the drones, which are the nales; and the worker bees, which are imperfect females. There are four like stages in the development of all three, namely: egg, larva (or grub), pupa (or chrysalis) and adult bees.
The one queen bee to be found in every colony is the mother of the entire colony. Her sole duty is to lay the eggs whereby the colony is continuously populated. She is in no sense the "boss or governor" of the bee family, although she is the most important member of the hive, and the various colony activities are greatly influenced by the presence and condition of the queen. Her abdomen is larger around than that of the worker bee but not so great in circumference as that of the drone, and tapers to a greater length than that of the drone or worker. The entire body of the queen is considerably longer than that of drone or worker. The wings of the queen in proportion to her size are much shorter and not so well developed as those of the worker or drone. She possesses a sting, which is curved, and which she very rarely uses except against a rival queen. The queen is developed from an egg which does not in any way differ from the egg from which the worker bee is produced. The worker bees themselves determine whether an ordinary egg shall develop a queen or worker.
Worker bees instinctively require a good queen. If the queen fails in fertility, is injured, lost or killed, they immediately prepare to rear another if there are any eggs or young larvae in the hive from which a queen can be reared.
When, because of a defective or missing queen or to provide a queen for a swarm soon to issue, the bees find themselves in need of a new queen, they proceed in the following manner: First, they build queen-cells, generally at the edge of \(\lessdot\) comb or in a depression in a comb, which cells are largerthan the worker or drone cells, somewhat resembling a peanut shell in size and shape. They project downward from the base, thus being vertical instead of horizontal as are worker and drone cells. In each of these specially constructed cells an ordinary worker egg is deposited. Three days later this egg hatches into a little white larva, and the worker bees begin feeding it a rich, milky, ehyle food, which is supposed to be a mixture of pollen and honey partly digested, commonly called "royal jelly." If the queen is taken away or lost, the bees will build a queen-cell over a very young worker larva. The workers develop a queen rather than one of their own kind sole-ly by constructing a special cell and by the feeding of downward.
The queen-cells are peanut shape and project downward.