BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
The British Bee Keepers' Association have also determined the thickness of material of which the frames are to be made--the top bar $ in. thick, the sides 14 in. thick, and the bottom bar 14 in. thick, all being $ in. wide ; and as frames of these dimensions are stocked by all bee-appliance dealers, there is some advantage gained by sticking closely to standard measurements. But a thickness of only \(\lx@sectionsign\) in. for the top bar makes a frame weak and likely, when the comb is filled with honey and brood, to sag considerably, and when surplus receptacles are placed over sagging frames a void is left which the bees are not slow to take advantage of to fill with either brace comb or propolis, both very undesirable substances in the position named. Some apiarists have adopted a top bar \(\frac{1}{2}\) in. thick, the extra \(\lx@sectionsign\) in. of thickness adding considerably to its stability ; but the plan has this disadvantage, that the frames are not strictly standard, although standard outside measurements are adhered to.
A " bee-space " is, approximately, \(\frac{\alpha}{1\sigma}\) in., that is to say, a bee can pass between two boards spaced \(\frac{\alpha}{1\sigma}\) in. apart. If a space is less than this, the bees will fill it with propolis or bee-glue, a sticky resinous substance exuded by and gathered from the buds of trees ; if more than \(\lx@sectionsign\) in., the space will have comb built in it. It is customary, therefore, to allow a free bee-space of \(\frac{1}{4}\) in. round the ends of the frames, and a space of \(\lx@sectionsign\) in. below them. It will be evident from this that any hive must be at least \(14\lx@sectionsign\) in. long and \(8\lx@sectionsign\) in. deep, and provision must be made for the overhanging top bar.
As bees build.their combs about \(1\lx@sectionsign\) in. from centre to centre, it follows that the width of the hive will depend upon how many frames it is decided the hive shall accommodate, and this point is determined by the style of hive adopted.
Hives may be roughly divided into two distinct classes--long (or "combination ") and tiering. The former is associated with the name of Charles Nash Abbot, who may be considered the father of British bee keeping, and is a hive warmly advocated by some. In it the frames hang parallel with the entrance, the number provided for being generally fifteen. In the tiering hive, the style most generally used, provision is made for ten frames only, this being the number to which it is usually considered expedient to limit the queen, and the frames are usually arranged so that they hang at a right angle to the entrance.
The portion of a hive allotted to the use of the queen is spoken of as the " brood nest "; the portions devoted to deprivation purposes are termed surplus chambers or " supers."
The beehive shown in section by Figs. 1 and 2 is of about the best type, as the air space round the brood chamber keeps the bees dry and warm in
Figure 1: Cross Section of Bar-frame Beehive.
and the floor board and stand (Fig. 3) requires two side pieces a (Figs. 1, 2, and 3), each 2 ft. 1 in. long by 2\(\frac{1}{2}\) in. by 1 in. ; one back cross piece b (Fig. 2), 1 ft. 7 in. by 2\(\frac{1}{2}\) in. by 1 in. ; and a front cross piece c, 1 ft. 7 in. by 2\(\frac{1}{8}\) in. by 1 in. Working from the back, the pieces are left the full width for 1 ft. 2 in., then reduced to 2\(\frac{1}{8}\) in. for 5\(\frac{1}{2}\) in., and at the front
Figure 2: Longitudinal Section of Bar-frame Beehive.
sion of the \(\pi\)-axis. The slope shown in Figs. 1 and 3, and screwed to the sides.
The outer casing of the brood chamber is shown by Fig. 4, sections of it being given by Figs. 1 and 2. This is made of 9-in. stuff \(\lx@sectionsign\) in. thick, the front and back pieces being 1 ft. 5\({}^{\frac{3}{4}}_{\frac{1}{4}}\) in. long, and the sides 1 ft. 10 in. long, 3 in. of which projects in front and is cut to the shape shown at n (Figs. 2 and 4), to carry the porch. Notches \(j\), \(\lx@sectionsign\) in. by \(\lx@sectionsign\) in. wide, are for the slides which regulate the size of the entrance.
The box can now be nailed together, but, of course, a better job results from _d_ovetailing or even lapping the joints. A 2\({}^{\frac{1}{2}}\)-in. by \(\lx@sectionsign\)-in. plinth \(k\) (Figs. 1, 2, and 4) should project 1 in. below the
Figure 3: Floor Board of Seehive.
bottom of the box, and is nailed to the sides and back to prevent wet penetrating; it should be bedded in thick white-lead paint, and it is advisable to give all joints a coating of the same material before putting them together.
The porch L (Figs. 2 and 4) is about 3\(\frac{1}{3}\) in. wide by \(\frac{1}{3}\) in. thick, and can be nailed on, the slide piece J at the front being also secured. If the necessary tools for rebating this piece are not available, it may be made up with two pieces, as shown in detail by Fig. 5. Some bee keepers object to a porch sloping towards the alighting board, as shown in Figs. 2 and 4, as the water drains on to the board, but to prevent this a small strip M (Fig. 2) may be nailed on the full length, or a groove may be cut for the same purpose.
Figure 4: Brood Chamber Outer Casing.
Figure 5: Slide Piece for Entranoe.
For the lift (Fig. 6) over the brood chamber, two pieces of pine, 1 ft. 6 in. long by 6 in. by 1 in., and two pieces, 1 ft. 7 in. by 6 in. by 1 in., must be prepared. These are nailed together to form a bottomless box, as shown at z (Figs. 1 and 2). The sides of the lift should be made to taper slightly, so that the measurements across the top will be 1 ft. 7 in. bare both ways and 1 ft. 7 in. across the bottom. This will allow the lift to fit easily over the brood chamber, and the roof to fit easily on to the lift. A plinth N (Figs. 1, 2, and 6), of 2-in.
by 1-in. stuff, is nailed round the bottom edge of the lift, to cover the joint.
Each live should have two of these lifts, to enable an extra lot of sections or shallow frames to be put on, to prevent swarming when honey is very plentiful.
The roof o (Figs. 1 and 2) requires two pieces of 1-in. stuff, 1 ft. 7 in. long by 9 in. wide in the centre, tapered down to 6 in. at both ends, and two pieces, 1 ft. 8 in. long by 6 in. by 1 in., for the sides. These are nailed together and planed level at the top, then covered with two boards each 1 ft. 10 in. long by 1 ft. by 1 in. Over these a covering of sheet zinc should be placed to keep the
Figure 6: Lift over Brood Chamber.
top weatherproof. To prevent the roof dropping too far over the lift, a couple of \(\frac{1}{4}\)-in. by \(\frac{1}{4}\)-in. strips P (Fig. 1) are nailed inside at the sides, or if a good job has not been made of the fitting, the strips should be fixed all round to keep out robber bees.
For ventilation, a hole is bored near the top of the roof as shown at R (Fig. 2), and this should be fitted with cone bee escapes (Fig. 7), to allow any bees that happen to get over the quilt to find their way out. (Fig. 7 shows a bee escape fitted to another shape of hive.)
The inner lining of the brood chamber is shown by Fig. 8.
For this will be required two pieces s (Figs. 2 and 8) 1 ft. 3 in. long by \(\$\) in. by \(\frac{1}{4}\) in., and two T, 1 ft. 5 in. by \(\$\) in. by \(\frac{1}{4}\) in. These are nailed together to leave a space of 1 ft. \(\frac{21}{4}\) in. between the narrow pieces, and then two strips \(\frac{1}{4}\) are prepared, 1 ft. 3 in. by \(\frac{1}{4}\) in., and nailed on, part of Fig. 8 being broken away to show the arrangement of this more clearly. To complete the lining, two strips \(\frac{1}{4}\) ft. 4 in. by \(1\frac{1}{4}\) in. by \(\frac{1}{4}\) in., are nailed on.
The regulating slide\({}_{4}\) for the entrance consist of two strips 9 in. by 1 in. by \(\frac{1}{4}\) in., and J (Fig. 2) shows one of these in position.
To prevent the bees getting up between the lining of the brood chamber and the casing, a loose
Figure 7: Cone Bee Escape in Beehive Roof.
## Chapter 2 Temporary Beehive.
Whetrer the apiary be large or small, an appliance which is always in request is a makeshift hive--anything which, whilst not good enough to form a permanent home for bees, will serve as a temporary lodgment for them until they can be properly housed. Fig. 9 is an isometric view of a hive for such a purpose, and shows an alternative form
Figure 9: Temporary Beehive.
of torch to that illustrated in the sectional view (Fig. 10).
It is not advisable to waste good material on an article of merely temporary use. Empty packing boxes can generally be obtained from grocers for a few pence each. A couple of Orlando Jones' starch boxes with lids provide sufficient material to complete one hive. These boxes measure, inside, 17 in. long, \(13^{3}_{4}\) in. wide, and 92 in. deep, and with but a slight expenditure of labour and material make capital makeshift or "nucleus "hives, holding eight frames, or ten at close spacing.
Select the better of the two boxes, and, choosing the best end for the front, turn it upside down, and mark a line on the bottom parallel with and distant from the front \(2^{1}_{2}\) in., and two others at right angles therewith \(3^{1}_{2}\) in. from each side. Bore a centre-bit hole and, with a pad-saw, remove the parallelogram enclosed by the lines drawn. Now take a piece of the lid, about 42 in. wide and as long as the width of the box, and nail it across so as to
Figure 10: Section of Temporary Beehive.
_Temporary Beehive_.
cover the portion of the bottom cut away and to project in front some 2 in. or so, to form an alighting board (see A, Figs. 9 and 10). Nail another narrow strip B across the back end of the box so that it may stand level, and if the joint of the bottom is open, cover it also with a similar strip. Stand the box on its bottom, and it will now be seen, as shown by Fig. 9; that there is an opening formed, about 7 in. wide and \(\lx@sectionsign\) in. high, by which the bees can enter the hive.
Knock the second box carefully apart, avoiding splitting the boards, and reduce the two ends to \(\lx@sectionsign\) in. in height. Cut them to \(\lx@sectionsign\) in. and finish off to \(\lx@sectionsign\) in. with the plane ; then level one edge of each as shown by Fig. 11, leaving a flat about \(\lx@sectionsign\) in. wide on the edge. After having drawn lines on the insides of the hive sides, parallel to and distant from the front and back \(1\lx@sectionsign\) in., insert the reduced end pieces and carefully nail them so that they rest close upon the hive bottom, and their inside faces coincide with the lines drawn.
These inner walls (e, Fig. 10) should then be found \(14\lx@sectionsign\) in. distant one from the other, and if a standard frame is inserted it should fit without any end-shake, and there should be a parallel space of \(\lx@sectionsign\) in. between the side bars of the frame and the inner walls of the hive, also a clear space of \(\lx@sectionsign\) in.
Figure 11: Section of Inner Wall.
below the frame, as indicated by the section of the hive (Fig. 10).
The bees could now pass in at the entrance and up between the inner and outer walls. To prevent this, three strips of wood, \(\frac{\pi}{4}\) in. wide and \(13\frac{\pi}{4}\) in. long (the pieces cut off the inner walls will provide these), are prepared to fit tightly in the vacant space; one of these strips (c, Fig. 10) is pushed down at the front until it rests on the floor of the hive and closes up the open space over the entrance; the remaining two d d are fixed about \(\frac{\pi}{4}\) in. below the top edges of the inner walls re; this prevents bees getting down whilst the hives are being manipulated, and allows space enough for the fingers to grip the frame ends.
If a roof is required--it is desirable to provide one--a half-depth starch box may also be obtained, and cut so that the sides slant from front to back, giving a fall of about half the depth of the box--say \(2\frac{1}{2}\) in., or thereabouts (Fig. 12 shows how a box may be cut to make two roofs). Nail some of the surplus wood across the top, giving a projection of about 1 in. on all sides, and, after nailing a strengthening piece h inside from front to back, cover the boarding with canvas, calico, felt, line-beam, sheet zinc, or something that, with paint or other substance, can be made impervious to wet. Even a sheet of stout brown paper will suffice if both it and the woodwork are previously well coated with thick paint, and the paper is afterwards given two or more coats of paint.
In order to keep the roof in position on the
Figure 12: Box Cut to Fit Two Roofs.
hive, plinths J must be prepared, from 11 in. to 9 in. wide, and nailed to the roof, projecting below its bottom edges about 4 in. If a porch is wanted, cut out two pieces of wood about 6 in. long and slightly less in width than the projection of the alighting board, slope the top ends, and secure them by nailing through the hive front (do this before the inner walls are put in) and up through the alighting board. A cover board 21 in. wide is to be fixed to the top (sloped) ends to throw water off, and in order that it may fit close to the hive front the back edge should be be levelled off.
Swarms, also nuclei, sometimes require feeding, so that it is as well to make provision for a feed bottle x, as shown in position in Fig. 10, by making the roof ceeper. In this case another full-depth starch box might be cut across as shown by Fig. 12, when it would furnish two deep roofs. A coat or two of paint will make the hive more sightly and more durable ; it will also keep it drier, which is a point of great importance in a permanent hive, though not so serious in one of a makeshift character.
It may be stated that on more than one occasion bees have had to winter in hives similar to the one illustrated in this chapter, and they have made good headway, though they are liable to be severely checked when breeding is in full swing and adverse weather occurs in April and May. These hives, therefore, cannot be recommended for use as per
Figure 13: Device to Prevent End-shake to the Frames.
mament quarters for bees. Bees wintered in them also make much greater inroads upon their stores than when housed in proper hives.
Although the particular boxes previously mentioned are recommended, they being of the correct size without alteration, any other box that is at least 17 in. long and not less than 9 in. in depth will serve. If a box is used that allows more than a very little end-shake to the frames--a defect which could not be tolerated--mail a thin strip of wood L on to the inside of each outer wall as shown by Fig. 13 ; or all the filling-up might, to save trouble, be placed at one end when the extra length is but slight. **d**e in Fig. 13 agree with **d**e in Fig. 10.
No entrance slides are here provided ; when a contraction of the entrance is required, a strip, or strips, of wood laid on the alighting board will answer every purpose.
## Chapter 3 Tiering bar-frame behive.
Tiering hives are used to afford additional accommodation for brood-raising or honey-storing purposes in cases where the brood nest or hive proper is inadequate. They are made by adding extra bodies above the brood nest.
Beehives are usually made of yellow pine, merely because pine happens to be plentiful in America, and is there used for all common purposes as is deal in this country; consequently pine is used, not because it is the best wood for hives, but because it happens to be cheap. America is the land of bees, honey, and bee keepers, and in that country there are numerous factories exclusively employed, year in, year out, in making beehives and apiarian supplies; and nearly all the beehives made in England are imported from America in the flat--that is, the material is planed and sawn to size on the other side of the Atlantic, and arrives here ready to be put together at a cost very little (if any) above the price at which rough-sawn board of similar material can be purchased in England.
As American winters are so severe, it is the custom above a certain degree of latitude to place the bees in cellars during the cold season--say, from November to March or April--so that hives are seldom exposed to much severe weather, so seldom, in fact, that hive bodies are usually left unpainted. Whilst pine may be employed for the inside parts of English hives, good yellow deal is far preferable for all exposed portions of a beehive, and is considerably cheaper to buy than is first or even second quality yellow pine. Even goodquality spruce will be preferable to pine, but it is somewhat liable to twist as it seasons, and is to that extent an undesirable material.
Below is a list of material required for the making of one tiering bar-frame hive, although it will be found very advantageous to make up at least three at the same time, as each hive is then more likely to be exactly like its fellow, and all parts will interchange--a point of no little importance when working a number of hives.
Material for shallow-frame boxes or section racks is not included herewith, as the making of these and the hive furniture will form the subject of another chapter.
The quantities of sawn boards to order are: 3 ft. of 11 in. by \(\lx@sectionsign\) in. (\(\lx@sectionsign\)-in. wrought board will do if sound and not too knotty), 17 ft. of 11 in. by \(\lx@sectionsign\) in., 10 ft. of 11 in. by \(\lx@sectionsign\) in., and 4 ft. of 2 in. by 1 in.
Figure 14: Tiering Bar-frame Beehive arranged for Summer Use.
slating batten. These sizes allow for slight waste in trimming, but nothing for waste caused by shakes or large knots. It will be presumed that all the material is cut to size and "Planed as indicated by the table, and edges and ends squared and shot true.
An isometric view of the hive arranged for summer use is shown by Fig. 14; it consists of floor-board FB, hive-body or brood-nest BN, invertible lift IL, roof RF, and detachable porch DP. Fig. 15 is an isometric view of the same hive arranged for winter with the lift inverted, thus forming what is practically a triple-walled hive. This illustration also shows the hive mounted upon a rough stand which is a condensed milk box, in size 19 in. by 13 in. by 7 in. deep, outside measurements. These boxes are strong, and answer the purpose capitally; and if given a coat of hot tar before being put into use, they will last for years.
The projection in front of the hive is a rough alighting board, the use of which is to keep the space immediately in front of the hive clear, and to prevent tired home-coming bees from being blown upon the ground or grass in front of the hive where, in cold, wet, and windy weather, many are liable to fall to rise no more. These rough alighting boards are from 15 in. to 18 in. (more or less) long, front to back, and in width the width of the floor-board; they can be made of the roughest material--the rougher the better, as affording a firmer foothold for the bees--secured to the underside of fillets about 1 in. by \(\frac{3}{4}\) in. in section; these fillets project about an inch above the boarding so as to rest on the floor-board of the hive. A couple of notches should be cut in the underside of the bottom fillet to allow water to drain off, and the board may be left rough, not painted or coated in any way.
Fig. 16 is a longitudinal section of the hive shown by Fig. 14, showing two shallow-frame boxesabove the brood-nest ; and Fig. 17 is a cross section of the arrangement given in Fig. 15, the dotted lines continued upward indicating the arrangement of the hive for summer use, but showing three section racks above the brood-nest instead of the two shallow-frame boxes, as in Fig. 16.
As will be seen, plenty of room is allowed for winter packing, and accommodation is also provided for a stimulating feeder for spring use, as indicated by dotted lines, above which there is still ample room for warm wraps.
The hive is suited alike to those who work solely for honey in the comb, and to those who
Figure 15: Tiering Bar-frame Beehive arranged for Winter Use.
extract the surplus for bottling ; and when, even though it is desired to produce comb-honey as the main crop, a shallow-frame box is added early in the season and left on the hive until its close, room for two section racks above can still be provided by adding an "eke " of the same dimensions as the lift, but about 3 in. deep, with fillets, 1\(\updownarrow\) in. wide, projecting 1\(\updownarrow\) in. below its bottom edge on two sides to keep it in position, as in Fig. 18, which shows the underside of the "eke."
Figure 16: Longitudinal Section of Tiering Bar-frame Beehive.
a 1-in. space at each end of the frames. Next take the inner walls b, and having bevelled the upper edge of each on the unplanned side (see Fig. 11, p. 21), nail the sides to them, keeping them lower edges \(\frac{1}{2}\) in. up from the bottom edges of the sides, and making the planed faces coincide exactly with the lines marked thereon, as shown by Fig. 19.
As the internal dimensions of the hive, front to back, are impcrtant, it will be advisable to prepare a gauge-stick--a piece of wood about 1 in. by **i** in. cut truly to length--with which to keep the inner walls the correct distance apart whilst nailing ; it is also very important that the inner walls are fixed at right angles to the sides. Measure the distance from the top edges of the sides to the upper edges of the inner walls, and, if all measurements do not coincide, make them do so by planing away the sides where they are highest. As shooting the edges of the sides a will have somewhat reduced their width, the front and back boards, c and d, must also be reduced in width to correspond, and should have the inner face of each smoothed with the plane for about 2 in. down from
Figure 18: "Eke " for Increasing Height of Lift.
the top edge. Deduct\(\frac{s}{16}\) in. from the measurement of the distance from top of side A to top of inner wall B, already taken, and mark the reduced measurement upon the inner face of both front and back from the top, and below these lines attach with brads the packing strips E.
Nail front and back to the ends of the sides, with one nail each at top and bottom, but do not at present drive them home.
Now prepare another gauge-stick fully 17 in. long --say 17\(\frac{1}{37}\) in. ; and if this gauge will not lie comfortably across the inner walls and between the outer walls without tightness or end-shake, distances must be adjusted until it will do so. If it is a tight fit, take a shaving or two as requisite off the face of each packing strip ; if the fit is loose, one or two thicknesses of st
Figure 19: Body-box of Tiering Bar-frame Seehive.
against the nail points, on a level surface, and make other holes where indicated to receive the points. Coat the edges with thick paint and drive the boards together. Cut the two bearers n to shape as shown by Fig. 21, and, in the sinking cut towards the front, nail the " floor under entrance " k, allowing it to project (say) 2 in. beyond each bearer.
Next nail on the " main floor " J, allowing it to project over the " under " floor 1 in., and the same distance over the ends of the bearers. Bevel one edge of the alighting board L, nail it in place against the " under " floor, and drive a couple of 11-in. brads through the face of the alighting board, on the skew, into the edge of the " under " floor.
A reference to Fig. 16 will show that the main floor stops short of the front inner wall of the hive.
Fig.-21.-Floor Bearer.
This is to provide a means of ingress and egress for the bees ; but in order to restrict the entrance somewhat, and also to afford a firm base upon which the body-box may stand, a packing block m is fixed on the " under " floor at each side. Fig. 22 shows the floor-board with one block in position. Bed the blocks in paint, nail them through the " under " floor, and clinch the nails underneath ; chamfer the front edge of the main floor between the blocks as shown in Figs. 16 and 22, and the floor-board is finished ; but before it is put aside it should be seen that it fits comfortably between the side walls of the body-box, remembering also to make allowance for the thickness of several coats of paint.