BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
Bees very rarely discharge their feces in the hive, unless they are diseased or greatly disturbed. If the Winter has been uncommonly severe, and they have had no opportunity to fly, their abdomens, before Spring, often become greatly distended, and they are very liable to be lost in the snow, if the weather, on their first flight, is not unusually favorable. After they have once discharged their feces, they will not venture from their hives, in unsuitable weather, if well supplied with water..
Having given the necessary precautions for wintering bees out of doors, the methods for defending them against atmospheric changes, by placing them in special depositories, will be described.
In some parts of Europe, it is customary to winter all the stocks of a village in a common vault or cellar. Dixerzon says:
"A dry cellar is very well adapted for wintering bees, even though it be not wholly secure from frost; the temperature will be much milder, and more uniform than in the open air; the bees will be more secure from disturbance, and will be protected from the piercing cold winds, which cause more injury than the greatest degree of cold when the air is calm.
"Universal experience teaches that the more effectually bees are protected from disturbance and from the variations of temperature, the better will they pass the Winter, the less will they consume of their stores, and the more vigorous and numerous will they be in the Spring. I have; therefore, constructed a special Winter repeaitory for my bees, near my Apiary. It is weather-boarded both outside and within, and the intervening space is filled with hay or tan, &e.; the ground plat enclosed is dug out to the depth of three or four feet, so as to secure a more moderate and equable temperature. When my hives are placed in this depository, and the door locked, the darkness, uniform temperature, and entire repose the bees enjoy, enable them to pass the Winter securely. I usually place here my weaker colonies, and those whose hives are not made of the warmest materials, and they always do well. If such a structure is to be partly understand, a very dry site must be selected for it."
Mr. Quinby, who has probably the largest Apiary in the United States, has for many years wintered his bees, with great success, in a room specially adapted to the purpose. To get rid of the dampness, he _inverts_ the common hives, and removes the board that covers my frames.
Mr. Wagner has furnished me with the following translation of a very able article from the _Bienaeneitung_. The author, the Rev. Mr. Scholtz, of Lower Silesin, is widely known in Germany for his skill in bee-keeping :are piled in a pyramidal form, on a bed of straw, and covered six or eight inches thick, with the same material, evenly spread, as in thatching ; and the whole is covered, in a conical form, with a layer of earth twelve inches thick, taken from a trench which is dug around the clamp. The proper finish is given by beating this earth smooth and even, with the back of the spade. This.mode of preservation, when well executed, is found to keep fruit, tuber-ous roots, &c, in better condition during cold weather, than can be affected in cells or vaults.
" These facts suggested to me the idea of protecting bees during the Winter, in a similar manner. It was evident, however, that a _bee-clamp_ would require various modifications, to secure preper ventilation, to prevent undue development of heat, and to obviate an accumulation of moisture; and an arrangement, also, for readily ascertaining, and effectually regulating the temperature. All this, too, without seriously disturbing the bees, after the hives have been deposited in the clamp.
" To attain these objects, a circular space, sufficiently large for the intended purpose, is to be marked off on the driest and most elevated part of a garden, or other suitable spot of ground. The surface-soil containing vegetable matter, liable to decay, is then to be removed, and in the central part of the plot, a pile, three feet square, and three feet deep (see Fig. 66), is to be dug, spreading the earth taken therefrom evenly around, and treating it down hard. This pile is designed to serve as an air-chamber, as will be fully explained hereafter.
" The area having been properly prepared, four trenches, one inch and a half wide and deep, are to be dug ; one extending from the middle of each of the four sides of the pit, to the outer edge of the periphery of the plot (Pl. XXI, Fig. 66). Into each of these trenches, a lead pipe, one inch in diameter, is to be laid, so as to form a communication between the pit and the air outside of the clamp when finished (Pl. XXI, Fig. 66). When these pipes are covered with earth, and the ground again leveled, a narrow strip of board should be laid, thereon, to designate the position of the tubes, that they may not be injured in subsequent operations.
"The area, including the air-chamber, is now to be covered with pieces of four-inch scantling, placed radiating from the centre, as nearly as practicable at regular distances apart, to serve as a platform on which the lower tier of hives is to be placed. The seam-ling should be cut of unequal lengths, and placed end to end, four inches apart, so as to leave interstiees for the free circulation of air; and where required, as the space widens towards the circumference; additional pieces are to be laid in, so that the hives may be set firm and level. On this platform, the hives are to be built up in tiers, so that the clamp, when completed, shall present the form of a pyramid. Thus, the lower tier may consist of four ranges, of four hives each; the second, of three ranges, of three hives each; and the third, of two ranges, of two hives each. The fourth, or apex, however, must be formed of two hives, instead of one, for reason which will hereafter appear (P1. XXI., Fig. 68). The whole will thus form a four-sided pyramid, consisting of thirty-one hives, which, if Dzierzon's double hives be used, will contain sixty-two colonies, in a comparatively small space. The oblong clamp (P1. XXI., Fig. 70), is constructed on similar principles, with the requisite variation in shape.
"These hives, which are placed on the platform directly over the pit, or air-chamber, must be set six inches apart, so that a continuous funnel, or direct air-passage, may be formed from the centre of the air-chamber below, to the apex of the clamp; and on the opposite fronts of the two uppermost hives, is to be placed a kind of chimney (see p. 351), made of four pieces of board, eight inches broad, and thirty inches long, having a movable cap, with a suitable slope, to prevent the entrance of rain. Holes are to be made in the sides of the chimney, below the cap, to allow the upward passage of air from the interior of the clamp. The rest of the hives may be placed closer together, though it is advantageous that they should not touch each other, so as to obstruct circulation in the interior, as it is important that the propritor should be able to regulate the internal temperature uniformly. Very great exercises in arranging the hives, is, however, not requisite. It is essential only that they be set firm and level, so as to constitute a regular pyramid. Care must also be taken, not Figure 66.
Figure 67.
Figure 68.
Figure 69.
to commence by placing the hives too near the periphery of the area; because, between the outer edge of the lower tier of the hives, and the exterior mouths of the ventilating tubes, sufficient space must be reserved for the external coagring, or mantle of the clamp (Pl. XXI, Fig. 69).
"When the hives have been arranged in the manner described, and the chimney has been placed on the two upper ones, over the flue communicating with the pit, they are to be covered in with boards, cut to proper lengths, and placed vertically, side by side, around the sides of the pyramid. On and against these boards in to be laid a thick layer of rushes or old dry straw, forming a regular and dense coating, from base to apex. This coating is, in turn, to be covered with a layer of earth, five or six inches thick, spread as evenly as practicable, commencing below and proceeding upward to the chimney, so that the latter, having already been secured in its place by the boards and the straw or rushes, is now covered by the earth, to within six or seven inches of its top. The earth for covering, is taken directly from the base of the clamp, around which a trench six inches deep, and eighteen inches wide, is now to be dug, so as to expose the mouths of the ventilating tubes at the upper edge of the interior side of the trench. In digging the trench, care must be taken not to close or injure the mouths of the tubes, which should, moreover, be secured by a perforated tin cap, to exclude mice, and other vermin, and yet allow the free passage of air. The trench will serve to receive and carry off rain or snow-water, during the Winter; and to effect this more perfectly, several gutters or furrows should be drawn from it outwards. If sufficient earth be not obtained from the trench to cover in the straw or rushes completely, at least five inches thick, the deficiency must be supplied from other sources. The earth covering should be dressed smooth and even with the back of a spade.
"In this state, the clamp should be allowed to remain till a severe frosts occur, when an additional coat of leaves or pine shatters is to be given. This should be five or six inches thick, and applied as evenly as possible, from base to apex, leaving only about four inches of the chimney exposed. This material should be applied wet, as it will thus pack more closely, and afterwards better confine the heat. When finished, it should be well sprinkled with water from a watering-can, and allowed to freeze. A very compact structure will thus be formed (Figs. 69 and 70). The mouths of the ventilating tubes should next be protected, by placing a piece of board before each of them; and the trenches are then to be filled loosely with tangled straw.
"All this labor must be performed gently, so as to disturb the confined bees as little as practicable. The covering of leaves or pine-shatters should not be applied till after cold weather sets in; and it may be deferred till after the earlier snows have fallen and melted, and the severer weather of December or January makes additional protection desirable.
"If an extensive Apiary renders a clamp of larger dimensions necessary, two or three pits, or air-chambers, with their apparent ventilating tubes and chimneys (Pl: XXI, Fig. 70) may be introduced.
"On clear, mild days, the protecting boards may be removed from the mouth of the ventilating tubes, that fresh air may freely enter the clamp, and carry off any dampness which may have formed within; and, as the entire interior is in direct communication with the air-chamber, a dry and healthy atmosphere will speedily be diffused throughout, by means of the dranght of the chimney. Towards evening, the protecting-boards should be replaced. On the return of milder weather, or on the termination of severe and protracted frosts, the mouths of the ventilating tubes may be uncovered, and left open, day and night, to prevent the undue development of heat in the interior; but in clear weather, the direct rays of the sun should be excluded from the mouths of the tubes. If the holes in the sides of the chimney should at any time become closed with snow, the obstructions must be removed, by means of a rake or other convenient implement. When the exterior of the clamp is covered with snow, the mouth of one of the ventilating tubes should be kept open, even in cold weather, and of all of them, when the weather is moderate, because the snow covering causes great internal warmth.
"To ascertain the interior temperature, a thermometer attached of honey each, that I might ascertain whether they would survive with so small a supply of food. I placed therein, also, a late after-swarm, which had built only a few short combs, and contained not more than four or five pounds of honey. All the others had ample stores. I closed the entrance and ventilating-passage of one strong colony, and placed some pieces of empty comb in the rear of the hive, to test whether, if moisture were generated from want of ventilation, mould would form on those combs.
" From the 18th to the 23rd of November, the weather was very mild, and the ventilating-tubes were, therefore, all left open day and night. On the 24th, the clamp was covered with snowy, and I closed three of the ventilating-tubes. On the 26th, a thaw commenced, and the weather continued to be very moderate to the end of the month, the thermometer standing at 33deg in the open air. Two of the tubes were kept open. From the 1st to the 3rd of December, ten inches of snow fell, with the thermometer ranging from 20deg to 22deg, and I kept only one tube open. On the 6th, the weather moderated ; from the 7th to the 12th, the thermometer stood at from 54deg to 66deg, and I again opened all the tubes, and kept them open till the end of the month, and to the 5th of January. On the 6th, the weather became cold and freezing, and I now added the outer mantle, or coating of leaves and pine shattera, closing all the tubes. The cold spell continued till the 17th of January. From the 18th till the end of the month, we had continuous fair, mild weather, and I opened all the ventilating-tubes. In February, the weather was particularly mild and fair, and, from the 18th to the 21st, the thermometer ranged from 76deg to 78deg. The bees belonging to some of my neighbors, and which were wintered in the open air, were now flying briskly every day, and most of the colonies in my chamber became so restless that I was constrained to remove them out of their Winter quariers. I did so with the less reluctance, as we had all the indications of an early Spring. The fair weather continuing, I deemed it wrong to keep my colonies longer confined in the clamp, and accordingly opened it on the 27th of February, to release them.
"Having thus, by these diversified experiments in wintering bees, arrived at certain and satisfactory results, I shall never hereafter winter my movable colonies otherwise than in elamps.
"Since the publication of my mode of wintering bees in elamps, some objections have been urged against it, which I shall briefly notice, before giving the results of my further experience in this matter.
" The expense of constructing the clamps has been alleged as an objection to the use of them. In my case, the cost of labor was simply the hire, for one day, of two men, who assisted me in preparing the area, carrying the hives thither, and arranging and enclosing them. The materials used, with the exception of the scantling, cost literally nothing, as any old boards can be made to servo the purpose, and the rushes, or straw, leaves, &c, employed, are always worth their cost for litter.
" A second objection is, that rats and mice will be induced to collect and harbor in the clamps, if straw be used. I never use any but old straw, thoroughly divested of grain, and prefer using rushes when they can conveniently be procured. I have, however, thus far, not been annoyed by rats or mice.
" To show how very superior clamps are for wintering bees, in thin hives especially, I will state that one of my neighbors, whose hives are made of inch boards, and who invariably lost many bees, and frequently entire colonies, when he left them to winter, as he usually did, in his open Apiracy, was induced by my success to place his hives in a clamp last Fall. They were put in on the 11th of November, 1857, and remained undisturbed till the 29th of March, 1858. When opened, all the colonies proved to be in excellent condition, strong, and entirely free from mould or moisture. Never, in any previous season, had he been equally successful, nor had his bees ever before required or received so little personal attention from him. He was 'a doubting Thomas,' when he saw me arranging my first clamps, but is now a thorough convert to the system, and declares that he will, in future, use no other mode, as he cannot conceive that a better could be devised.
" My own colonies remained in the clamp from the 13th of November to the 29th of March, 1858, and were perfectly sound, and healthy when I opened them. The earth under the outer mantle was still frozen, and had to be removed with a hoc, as in the previous year, thus showing that the bees were not affected by the prevalent mild weather. Long confinement had not Injured them in the least degree, because, proposing in a low and equable temperature, they had consumed proportionally little honey, and remained without excitement or disturbance during the whole period. I am now fully convinced that bees may remain confined in this manner during the most protracted Winter, not only without injury, but with positive benefit, as they are altogether secure from the always detrimental, and frequently rainous, effects of exposure to the vieisitudes of the weather in our variable climate.
To simplify the construction of the elamps, I made my last one longer and lower than the one I prepared the previous Fall; and I was thus able to apply the successive covers, or mantles, more easily and conveniently. I also dispensed with the chimney, and could thus close the top more regularly and perfectly; laying over the apex, boards weighted down with stones to keep them in place. I found no disadvantage resulting from discarding the chimney, as the ventilating-tubes enabled me still to regulate the internal temperature, and give the bees a sufficient supply of fresh air. I also enlarged the air-chamber, making it three feet deep, as before, by only thirty inches broad, and lengthening it so as to extend the whole length of the inferior diameter of the clamp. In every other respect, the construction remained the same."
When hives are wintered in a special repository, I should advise giving them upward ventilation. If they are in collars or rooms, the upper cover may be entirely removed; and, if put in clamps, then it may be fastened, as advised on page 338, and some air be allowed to enter at the lower part of the hive.
In all the northern parts of this country, it is very obvious that those who mean to establish large \(\Lambda\)paries will have to so winter their bees, that they shall not be exposed to the usual atmospheric changes. What way precisely is the best can only be determined by careful and long-continued experiments. These ought not to be conducted so as to hazard too much in one venture.
Great' loss is often incurred in replacing upon their Summer stands the stocks which have been kept in special depositories. Unless the day when they are put out is very favorable, many will be lost when they fly to discharge their feces. In movable-comb hives, this risk can be greatly diminished, by removing the cover from the frames, and allowing the sun to shine directly upon the bees; this will warm them up so quickly, that they will all discharge their faces in a very short time.*
After the stocks are placed on their Summer stands, \(\dagger\) the precautions already described should be taken to strengthen feeble or impoverished colonies (p. 221).
* The following is an extract from my journal:
* Jan. Slat, 1837.--Remored the upper cover, exposing the bees to the full heat of the sun, the thermometer being \(30^{\circ}\) in the shade, and the atmosphere calm. The hive standing on the sunny side of the house, the bees quickly took wing and discharged their faces. Very few were lost on the snow, and nearly all that allished on it took wing without being collided. More bees were lost from other hives which were not opened, as few which led were able to return; while, in the one with the cover removed, the returning locus were able to slight at once among their warm companions.*
\(\dagger\) Duleuron advises placing then on their former stands, as many bees still reunchen're the old spot. Mr. Qulaby uses this time for equalizing the colonies, as he finds that, "being all watered. In one room, their soon is so much alike that they mix together without extension."
board should be again attended to, as soon as the bees are actively on the wing, and, if any hives are suspiciously light, sugar-candy (p. 272) should be given them. Strong colonies will now begin to breed considerably, but nothing should be done to excite them to premature activity. See that the bees are supplied with water (p. 344).
MARCH.--In our Northern States, the inhospitable reign of Winter still continues, and the directions given for the two previous months are applicable to this. If there should be a pleasant day, when bees are able to fly briskly, seize the opportunity to remove the covers (p. 361); carefully clean out the hives (p. 221), and learn the exact condition of every colony. See that your bees have water (p. 344), and are well supplied with rye-flour (p. 84). In this month, weak stocks commonly begin to breed, while strong ones increase quite rapidly. If the weather is favorable, colonies which have been kept in a special Winter depository, may now be put upon their proper stands (p. 361). As soon as severe Winter weather is over, it will be necessary to shut off all upward ventilation.
April.--Bees will ordinarily begin to gather much pollen in this month, and sometimes considerable honey. As brood is now very rapidly maturing, there is a largely increased demand for honey, and great care should be taken to prevent the bees from suffering for want of food. If the supplies are at all deficient, breeding will be checked, even if much of the brood does not perish, or the whole colony die of starvation. If the weather is propitious, feeding to promote a more rapid increase of young (p. 268) may now be commenced. Feeble colonies must now be reinforced (p. 221), and should the weather continue cold for several days at a time, the bees ought to be supplied with water (p. 344) in their hives. In April,if not before, the larvae of the bee-moth will begin to make their appearance, and should be carefully destroyed (p. 248).
May.--As the weather becomes more genital, the increase of bees in the colonies is exceedingly rapid, and drones, if they have not previously made their appearance, begin to issue from the hives. In some locations, the bees will now gather much honey, and it will often be advisable to give them access to the spare honey receptacles;1 but in some seasons and locations, either from long and cold storms, or a deficiency of forage, stocks not well supplied with honey will exhaust their stores,.and perish, unless they are fed. In favorable seasons, swarms may be expected in this month, even in the Northern States. These May swarms often issue near the close of the blossoming of fruit-trees, and just before the later supplies of forage, and if the weather becomes suddenly unfavorable, may starve, unless they are fed. Even if there is no danger of this, they will make so little progress in combbuilding and breeding, when food is scarce, as to be surpassed by much later swarms. The Aqitarian should have hives in readiness to receive new swarms, however early they may issue, or be formed. If new colonies are to be made by artificial processes, a seasonable supply of queens (p. 188) should be reared..
June.--This is the great swarming month in all our Northern and Middle States. As bees keep up a high temperature in their hives, they are by no means so dependent upon the weather for forwardness, as plants, and as most other insects necessarily are. I have had as early swarms in Northern Massachusetts, as in* the vicinity of Philadelphia.
If the ApA binary is not carefully watched, the bee-keeper, after a short absence, should examine the neighboring bushes and trees, on some of which he will often find a swarm clustered, preparatory to their departure for a new home.*