BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
It has been strongly urged, without regard to the strength of the stock, to keep them all out of the sun; because an occasional warm day would call out the bees, when they get on the snow, and perish; this is a loss, to be sure, but there is such a thing as inducing a greater one by endeavoring to avoid this. I have said in another place that second-rate or poor stocks might occasionally starve, with plenty of stores in the hive, on account of frosty combs. If the hive is kept from the sun, in the cold, the periods of temperate * [349] Weather might not occur as often, as the bees would exhaust the honey within their circle or cluster. But on the contrary, when the sun can strike the hive, it warms up the bees, and melts the frost more frequently. The bees may then go among their stores and obtain a supply, generally, as often as needed. We seldom have a winter without sunny days enough for this purpose; but should such an one occur, stocks of this class should be brought into a warm room, once in four or five days, for a few hours at a time, to give them a chance to get at the honey. Stocks much below second-rate cannot be wintered successfully in this climate; the only place for them is the warm room. I have known bees thoroughly covered in a snow-drift, and their owner was at considerable trouble to shovel the snow away, fearing it would smoother them. This is unnecessary, when protected from the mice and ventilated as just directed; a snow-bank is about as comfortable a place as they can have, except in the house. When examined a short time after being so covered, the snow for a space of about four inches on every side of the hive is found melted, and none but quite poor stocks would be likely to suffer with this protection. A little snow around the bottom, without a vent in the side of the hive, might smother them.
## Effects of snow considered.
As for bees getting on the snow, I apprehend that not many more are lost there, than on the frozen earth; that is, in the same kind of weather. I have seen them chilled, and lost.on the ground by hundreds, when a casual observer would not have noticed them; whereas, had they been on the snow, at the distance of several rods, every bee would have been conspicuous. Snow is not to be dreaded as much as chilly air. Suppose a hive stands in the sun throughout the winter, and bees are allowed to leave when they choose, and a portionare lost on the snow, and that it was possible to number all that were lost by getting chilled, throughout the season, on the bare earth--the proportion (in my opinion) lost on the snow would not be one in twenty. A person that has not closely observed during damp or chilly weather, in April, May, or even the summer months, has no adequate conception of the number. Yet, I do not wish to be understood that it is of no consequence what are lost on the snow, by any means. On the contrary, a great many are lost, that might be saved with proper care. But I would like to impress the fact, that frozen earth is not safe without warm air, any more than snow, when crusted, or a little hard. Even when snow is melting, it is solid footing for a bee; they can and do rise from it, with the same ease as from the earth. Bees that perish on snow in these circumstances, would be likely to be lost if there was none.
STOKKS TO BE PROTECTED ON SOME occasions.
The worst time for them to leave the hive is immediately after a new snow has fallen, because if they light on it then, it does not sustain their weight; and they soon work themselves down out of the rays of the sun, and perish. Should it clear off pleasant, after * **Wintering bees.** **851**
* **a storm of this kind, a little attention will probably be remunerated. Also, when the weather is moderately warm, and not sufficiently so to be safe, they should be kept in, whether snow is on the ground or otherwise.**
**For this purpose, a wide board should be set up before the hive to protect it from the sun, at least above the entrance in the side. But if it grows sufficiently warm so that bees leave the hive when so shaded, it is a fair test by which to tell when it will do to let them have a good chance to sally out freely, except in cases of a new snow, when it is advisable to confine them to the hive. The hive might be let down on the floor-board, and the wire-cloth cover the passage in the side, and made dark for the present; raising the hive at night again, as before. I have known hundreds of stocks wintered successfully without any such care being taken, and the bees allowed to come out whenever they chose to do so. Their subsequent health and prosperity proving that it is not altogether ruinous. It has been recommended to enclose the whole hive by a large box set over it, and made perfectly dark, with means for ventilation, &c. (A snow-bank would answer equally well, if not 'better.) For large families it would do well enough, as would also other methods. But I would much rather take the chances of letting them all stand in the sun, and issue as they please, than to have the warmth of the sun entirely excluded from the moderate-sized families. I never **knew a whole stock lost by this cause alone." Yet, I have known a great many starved, merely because the sun was not allowed to melt the frost on the combs, and give them a chance to get at their stores.
DO THE BES EAT more when allowed to come out ogasionally in winter?
Besides the loss of bees on the snow when standing in the sun, and taking an airing occasionally, there are some economical bee-keepers who urge this disadvantage, " that every time bees come out in winter they discharge their excrement, and eat more honey in consequence of the vacant room." What a ridiculous absurdity it would be to apply this principle to the horse, whose health, strength, and vital heat is sustained by the assimilation of food! and the farmer is not to be found who would think of saving his provender by the same means. That bees are supported in cold weather on the same principle is indicated strongly, if not conclusively.
Is it not better (if what has been said on the subject of wintering bees is correct) to keep our bees warm and comfortable when practicable, as a means of saving honey?
To winter bees in the best manner, considerable care is required. Whenever you are disposed to neglect them, you should bear in mind that one early swarm is worth two late ones; their condition in spring will often decide this point. Like a team of cattle or horses when well wintered, they are ready for a good season's work, but when poorly wintered have to recruit a \(\cdot\) long time before they are worth much.
Sagacity of Bees.
Are not Bees directed alone by Instiinct?
On this subject I have but little to say, as I have failed to discover anything uncommonly remarkable, separate and distinct in one swarm, that another would not exhibit. I have found one swarm guided alone by instinct, doing just what another would under the same circumstances.
Writers, not contented with the astonishing results of instinct, with their love of the marvellous, must add a good share of reason to their other faculties,--" an adaptation of means to ends, that reason alone could produce." It is very true, without close inspection, and comparing the results of different swarms in similar cases, one might arrive at such conclusion. It is difficult, as all will admit, " to tell where instinct ends, and reason begins." Instances of sagacity, like the following, have been mentioned. " When the weather is warm, and the heat inside is somewhat oppressive, a number of bees may be seen stationed around the entrance, vibrating their wings. Those inside will turn their heads towards the passage, while those outside will turn theirs the other way. A constant agitation of air is thus created, thereby ventilating the hive more effectually." _All full stocks do this in hot weather._
What they do with propolis.
" A snail had entered the hive and fixed itself against the glass side. The bees, unable to penetrate it with their stings, the cunning economists fixed it immovably, by cementing merely the edge of the orifice of the shell to the glass with resin, (propolis), and thus it became a prisoner for life." Now the instinct that prompts the gathering of propolis in August, and filling every crack, flaw, or inequality about the hive, would cement the edges of the snail-shell to the glass, and a small stone, block of wood, chip, or any substance that they are unable to remove, would be fastened with it in the same manner. The edges or bottom of the hive, when in close proximity to the bottom, is joined to it with this substance. Whatever the obstacle may be, it is pretty sure to receive a coating of this. The stoppers for the holes at the top are held in their places on the same principle; and the unaccountable sagacity that once fastened a little door, might possibly be nothing more than the same instinct.
Another principle, I think, will be found to be universal with them, instead of sagacious reasoning.
Whenever the combs in a hive have been broken, or when combs have been added, as was mentioned in the chapter on fall management, the first duty of the bees appears to be to fasten them as they are; when the edges are near the side of the hive, or two combs in contact, a portion of wax is detached and used for joining them together, or to the side.
"MENDING BROREN COMS.
Where two combs do not touch, and yet are close together, a small bar is constructec from one to the other, preventing any nearer approach. (This may be illustrated by turning the hive a few inches from the perpendicular after being filled with combs in warm weather.)
'''
marking passages to every part of their combs.
'''
Should nearly all the combs in the hive become detached from any cause, and lie on the bottom in one "grand smash of ruin," their first steps are, as just described, pillars from one to the other to keep them as they are. In a few days, in warm weather, they will have made passages by biting away combs where they are in contact, throughout every part of the mass; little columns of wax below, supporting the combs above,--irregular, to be sure, but as well as circumstances admit. Not a single piece can be removed without breaking it from the others, and the whole will be firmly cemented together. A piece of comb filled with honey, and sealed up, may be put in a glass box with the ends of these cells so sealed, touching the glass. The principle of allowing no part of their tenement to be in a situation inaccessible, is soon manifested. They immediately bite off the ends of the cells, remove the honey that is in the way, and make a passage next to the glass, leaving a few bars from it to the comb, to steady and keep it in its position. A single sheet of comb lying flat on the bottom-board of a populous swarm is cut away under side, for a passage in every direction, numerous little pillars of wax being left for its support. How any person in the habit of watching their proceedings, with any degree of attention, could come at the conclusion that the bees raised such comb by mechanical means and then put under the props for its support, is somewhat singular. Their efforts united for such a purpose like reasonable beings, I never witnessed.
These things, considered as the effect of instinct, are none the less wonderful on that account. I am not sure but the display of wisdom is even greater than if the power of planning their own operations had been given then.
I have mentioned these, to show that a course of action called forth by the peculiar situation of one family, would be copied by another in a similar emergency, without being aware of its ever being done before. Were I engaged in a work of fiction, I might let fancy reign and endeavor to amuse, but this is not the object. Let us endeavor then to be content with truth, and not murmur with its reality. When we take a survey of the astonishing regularity with which they construct their combs without a teacher, and remember that the waxen material is formed in the rings of their body, that for the first time in life, without an experienced leader's direction, they apply a claw to detach it, that they go forth to the fields and gather stores unbidden by a tyrant's mandate, and throughout the whole cycle of their operations, one law and power governs. Whoever would seek mind as the directing power, must look beyond the eensorship of the bee for the source of all we behold in them!
Straining honey.. 357
CHAPTERXXIV.
straining honey and wax.
When about to remove the contents of a hive, I have never found it necessary to use all the precautions often recommended to prevent the access of bees. I have seen it stated that a room in which there was a chimney open, would be unsuitable, as the bees would scent the honey, and thus find their way down into the room. I never was thus troubled by their perpendicular travelling. It is true, if the day was warm, and a door or window was standing open, the bees would find their way in during a scarcity of honey. But with doors and windows closed no difficulty need be apprehended.
methods of removing combs from the hive.
The most convenient way to remove combs from the hive is to take off one of its sides, but this is apt to split the boards, if it was properly nailed, and injure it for subsequent use. With tools such as have been described, it may be done very nicely, and leave the hive whole. The chisel should have the bevel all on one side, like those used by carp centers. When you commence, turn the flat side next the board of the hive, and the bevel crowded by the combs will follow it close the whole length ; with the other tool they are cut across the top, and readily lifted out. If preferred, they may be cut across near the centre and take out half a sheet at a time ; this is sometimes necessary on account of the cross-sticks.
can ; the height may be considerably less, providing there are handles on each side to pass out at the top ; the bottom is perforated with holes like a colander, combs are put into this, and the whole set into a kettle of boiling water, and heated without any risk of burning, until all the wax is melted, (which may be ascertained by stirring it,) when it may be taken out. All the wax, bee-bread, &c., will rise in a few minutes. The strainer can now be raised out of the top and set on a frame for the purpose, or by merely tipping it slightly on one side it will rest on the top of the can. It might be left to cool before raising the strainer, were it not liable to stick to the sides of the can ; the honey would be full as pure, and separate nearly as clean from the wax and bee-bread, &c. When raised out before cooling, the contents should be repeatedly stirred, or considerable honey will remain. Two qualities may be made by keeping the first that runs through separate from the last, (as stirring it works out the bee-bread). Even a third quality may be obtained by adding a little water, and repeating the process. This is worth but little. By boiling out the water, without burning, and removing the seam, it will do to feed bees. By adding water until it will just bear a potato, boiling and skimming, and letting it ferment, it will make metheglin, or by letting the fermentation proceed it will make vinegar. Honey that has been heated thoroughly, will not candy as readily as when strained without heat. A little water may be added to prevent its getting too hard; but should it get so in cold weather, it can at any time be warmed, and water added until it is of the right consistence.
getting out wax--different methods.
Several methods have been adopted for separating the wax. I never found any means of getting out the _whole_. Yet I suppose I came as near it as any one. Some recommend heating it in an oven, similar to the method of straining honey through the colander, but I have found it to waste more than when melted with water. A better way for small quantities, is to half fill a coarse stout bag with refuse comb and a few cobble-stones to sink it, and boil it in a kettle of water, pressing and turning it frequently till the wax ceases to rise. When the contents of the bag are emptied, by squeezing a handful, the particles of wax may be seen, and you may thereby judge of the quantity thrown away. For large quantities the foregoing process is rather tedious. It can be facilitated by having two levers four or five feet long and about four inches wide, and fastened at the lower end by a strong hinge. The combs are put into a kettle of boiling water, and will melt almost immediately ; it is then put into the bag, and taken between the levers in a wash-tub or other large vessel and pressed, the contents of the bag shaken, and turned, several times during the process, and if need be returned to the boiling water and squeezed again. The wax, with a little water, is now to be remelted and strained again through finer cloth, into vessels that will mould it into the desired shape. As the sediment settles to the bottom of the wax when melted, a portion may be dipped off nearly pure without straining.
Wax in cool weather may be whitened in a short time in the sun, but it must be in very thin flakes; it is readily obtained in this shape by having a very thin board or shingle, which should be first thoroughly wet, and then dipped into pure melted wax; enough will adhere to make it the desired thickness, and will cool instantly on being withdrawn. Draw a knife along the edges, and it will readily cleave off. Exposed to the sun in a window or on the snow, it will become perfectly white, when it can be made into cakes for market, where it commands a much higher price than the yellow. It is said there is a chemical process that whitens it readily, but I am not acquaint-ed with it.
## Chapter 8.4.
PURCHASING stocks and transporting bees.
Ir the reader has no bees, and yet has had interest or patience to follow me thus far, it is presumptive evidence that he would possess the requisite perseverance to take charge of them. It would be well, however, to remember the anxieties, perplexities, and time necessary to take the proper care, as well as the advantages and profit.
But if you are disposed to try the experiment, very likely some directions for a commencement would be acceptable.
## 867 Purchasing Stocks.
Why the word Luck is applied to bees.
There has been so much uncertainty in stock of this kind, that the word _luck_ has been made to express too much. Some have been successful, while others have failed entirely; this has suggested the idea that _luck_ depended on the manner that the stocks were obtained; and here again there seems to be a variety of opinions, as is the case always, when a thing is guessed at. One will assert that the "fiekle dance" is charmed into favor by stealing a stock or two to begin with, and returning them after a start. Another, (a little more conscientious, perhaps) that you must take them without _liberty_, to be sure, but leave an equivalent in money on the stand. Another, that the only way to get up an effectual charm, is to exchange sheep for them; and still another says, that _bees must always be a gift_. I have had all these methods offered me gratis, with gravity, suitable to make an impression. And, finally, there has yet another method been found out, and that is, when you want a few stocks of bees go and buy them, yes, and pay for them too, in dollars and cents, or take them for a share of the increase for a time, if it suits your pecuniary resources best. And you need not depend on any_charm_ or mystic power for your success--if you do, I cannot avoid the unfavorable prediction of a failure. It is true that a few have accidentally prospered for a few years ; I say acci dentally, because when they have no true principles of management, it must be the result of accident. It is a saying with some, that " one man can't have luck but few years at once," and others none at all, although
of bees can afford to take care of a few hives more, for half the profits, which he has to give if another takes them ; this is apt to be the case, especially, with such as have no faith in charms.
RULE IN TAKING BESS FOR A SHARE.
The rule generally adopted for taking bees is this. One or more stocks are taken for a term of years, the person taking them finding hives, boxes, and bestowing whatsoever care is necessary, and returning the old stocks to the owner with half the increase and profits.
A MAN MAN MAN SETL HIS "LUCK."
There are yet a few persons who refuse to sell a stock of bees, because it is "bad luck." There is often some grounds for this notion. It might arise under the following circumstances. Suppose a person has a half dozen hives, three extra good, the others of the opposite extreme. He sells for the sake of the better price his three best ; there is but little doubt but his best "luck" would go too! But should his poorest be taken, the result would be different, without doubt.
But there are cases where an apiarian has more stocks than he wishes to keep. (It has been the case with myself frequently.) Persons wishing to sell, are the proper ones of which to buy. Purchasers seldom want any but first-rate stocks, they are generally cheapest in the end. There is usually a difference of about a dollar in the spring and fall prices, and five and six dollars are common charges. I have known * [865] them sell at auction at eight, but in some sections they are less. First-rate stocks recommended to begin with. For a beginning then, I would recommend purchasing none but first-rate stocks; it will make but little difference in the risk, whether you obtain them in the spring, or fall, if you have read my remarks on winter management with attention; I have already said the requisites for a good stock for winter, were a numerous family and plenty of honey, and that the cluster of bees should extend through nearly all the combs, &c. To avoid as far as possible diseased brood, find an apiary where it has never made its appearance, to make purchases. There are some who have lost bees by it, and yet are totally ignorant of the cause. It would be well, therefore, to inquire if any stocks have been lost, and then for the cause--be careful that secondary are not mistaken for primary causes. old stocks are good as any, if healthy. When it appears that all are exempt, (by a thorough examination, if not satisfied without,) you need not object to stocks two or three years old; they are just as good as any, sometimes better, (providing they have swarmed the season previous, according to one author; because such always have young queens, which are more prolific than old ones, that will be in all first swarms). Old stocks are as prosperous as any, as long as they are healthy, yet they are more liable to become diseased.
* 866 PURCHASING STOCKS.
Caution RESPECTING DISEASED BRUOD.
When no apiary from which to purchase can be found, but where the disease _has made_ its appearance, and you are necessitated to purchase from such, or not at all, you cannot be too cautious about it. It would be safest in this case to take none but young swarms, as it is not so common for them to be affected the first season, yet they are not always exempt. But here, again, you may not be allowed to take all young stocks; in which case let the weather be pretty cold, the bees will be further up among the combs, and give a chance to inspect the combs. At this season, say not earlier than November, all the healthy brood will be hatched. Sometimes, a few young bees may be left that have their mature shape, and probably had been chilled by sudden cold weather--these are not the result of disease, the bees will remove them the next season, and no bad results follow. In warm weather a satisfactory inspection can be had no other way, but by the use of tobacco smoke. Be particular to reject all that are affected with the disease in the least; better do without, than take such to begin with. (A full description has been given of this disease in another place.)
RESULT OF IGORANCE in purchasing.