BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
On page 322, I have given a process of uniting two small families for winter. It will be seen readily, that, by the help of the frames, it is a very simple matter, and much less trouble. The frames containing the most honey are put into one hive with the bees.
All bee-keepers know that strong colonies are not destroyed by the worm in any hive ; but before anything can be done to assist those that are attacked, in all but this, the worm has usually done his mischief among the combs, whether much or little, and come to the bottom, where he may be dispatched. But when we can get a fair radio-view of a comb, as by lifting out a frame, we can detect this locality, and attack him in his strophold. The point of a knife and the thumb will form a kind of foreceps very efficient in dragging him from his covered thoroughface, loop before he could be routed by the bees. Very few stocks of bees are go strong but they may be benefited materially by this kind of assistance. I have taken a half-dozen from a comb, when judging from the strength of the stock it belonged to, there would be no danger of losing it ; but the fact that a colony survives the injury of a brood of worms, does not prove that it has received no damage.
I have, for the last few years, winter _all_ my bees in the house. To get rid of the moisture most effectually, I still turn the common hive bottom up, as directed on page 340. But as a consequence, all dust and dead bess must fall into the top of the hive. This is objectionable, yet it is decidedly better than modify combs, that are engendered when right side up. With the movable frames I have only to remove the honey-board from the top, and the hive is effectively ventilated when right side up, and presenting this advantage over the box-hive--all don't bess and fill full to the bottom and out of the combs, leaving them entirely clean. Should the combs be made crooked, so that it is impossible to take them out, there is yet this advantage, of wintering them without inverting the hive, and ventilating thoroughly. Such \(\epsilon\) ; my readers as have been troubled about their bees standing on their heads all winter, will see that, with thin hive, there is a chance for them to remain right side up, and still be fully ventilated.
I have now given some, but not all the advantages of the movable frames. It is not very likely we have got the best _fform_ of the hive. I have one quite different
**from Mr. Langstrodt's, the patentee, but whether it is better, is for others to decide. I can only say that I am suited with it better than with his. A few will like mine, because I do; others, his, because he recommends it. I have not the least objection to any one's improving it or using it, as either of us do. There is not the least doubt in any mind that whatever realizes the greatest possible benefits from his bears, will have to return the needle onto in some form.** The principle--movable combs--can hardly be diagnosed with.
I would suggest to those who are about beginning with them, to start with a form that can be retained. One set of frames should fit any live. It is very perplexing to have two sizes of them. Very likely the first occasion there is of changing them, it will be with these odd ones. If the reader is not satisfied with the form that I give, I would alusive consulting Mr. Langstrodt's work for his model: while com parting them, something new and superior may be suggested.
I make the hive as follows: Get boards, 12\(\xi\) inches wide, and 1 inch in thickness; cut two lengths, 21\(\%\) inches, and two 12 inches. If to be painted, they are pinned on both sides--other?use, only the inside--these hive having frames inside, to assist the new swarm in holding fast; the planed surface does no harm, and is an advantage, by saving the bases the trouble of waxing over the rough places. The two shorter pieces are rubbed out on the inside upper edge a half-inch square, to receive the ends of the frames. The whole is now thoroughly malt together, making a box without top or bottom, the inside just 12 by 19\(\%\) inches square, and 12\(\%\) deep. In one end is an entrance, 3 or 4 inches long by 3\(\%\)-inch deep at the bottom, and an inch hole half-nay to the top.* A strip of wood, about 3\(\%\)-inch thick by 9 inches wide, and 14 inches long, is mailed to each end, near the top, as handles. The stand and roof are made like those recommended on page 128, only longer. The frames for the inside--the point constituting its superiority--are made as follows: First, get out a triangular strip of wood, 18 inches long--the square, an inch --this is mailed to another, 3\(\%\)-inch thick, 1\(\%\) wide, and 20\(\%\) inches long; each end projects beyond the triangular piece, 15\(\%\) inch. Next, get two strings, 5\(\%\)-inch wide by 3\(\%\)-inch thick, and 11 inches in length, for the ends ; then one for the bottom, 5\(\%\)-inch wide, 3\(\%\) thick, and 18 inches long, to correspond with the triangular piece at the top. Use small flushing walls, and drive through the ends of the short pieces into the end of the triangular strip, and the one of the same length at the bottom. Mr. Langstrodt recommends that these end-pieces be a right-angled triangle, instead of the shape 1 have--the flat surface outward. It is said the bees will aim their comb for the angle, and are less likely to get one side near the end. But whether it will prove enough better for the extra trouble, is doubtful. When finished, we have a frame in this shape, 18 inches long, by 10 deep, inside. This will go down into the hive, and leave a half-inch space between the end of the frame and the end of the hive. The strip that is mailed to the triangular one, with the end projecting, rests on the rabbiting, and supports it--this is the only part that touches the hive. Eight of these frames will go in a hive that is 12 inches wide, 13\(\%\) inches being the right distance from center to center. To keep them the right distance apart at the bottom, a stick, 3\(\%\) by 3\(\%\) of an inch square, is put across the middle of the hive, 3\(\%\) of an inch from the bottom, with wire through in this form. Two small mortuse, 3\(\%\)-inch deep on each side, hold it. It may be put in alter the hive is togher, by bending it a little. Very small annealed wire will do: it is ent in pieces long enough to reach through and turn over to the upper side, which hold them firmly. The points or angles should be just 13\(\%\) inches apart, and the bottom of the frame should come down between them within 3\(\%\) of an inch of touching the cross-piece.
The proper size for a hive, as already recommended for this latitude (2,000 cubic inches), will take over seven and less than eight of these frames. I intend to have some of those hives only wide enough for six frames (9 inches), and then larger, until I can put in ten. \(\Delta\)I present, I have them only for eight and nine. The advantages of different sizes are, that a moderate swarm will fill six frames with combs, and need about all of them for brood ; then, if we put on the surplus boxes, we shall get nearly all the honey stored in them that is collected in June and July, which is of a much better quality than is gathered in August from buckwheat.**
## Appendix A Appendix.
But when these flowers begin to yield honey, the frames may be put into a larger live with two or three empty frames, and the boxes taken off. This inferior honey will serve for winter stores as well as the other, and is worth one-third lens in market. In the spring, if thought best, the number of frames may be reduced again to six or seven, and will give an opportunity to take away most of the drone-comb, and leave cells in abundance for raising workers. If worker-combs are taken away, they should be saved for new swarms-the drone-cells, when white, for surplus boxes. Where there is no buckwheat raised, the earwame might as well be hived in a full-sized hive at first, as it would make no difference when they secured their winter stores.
The top easiest made, of which I have a few, is \(\lambda\)-inch board, \(21\times\) inches long by \(14\) wide, clamped at the ends, and a rabbeting cut around the edge, like the top described for the common hive ; the passages to the surplus boxes are inch holes. These boards, notwithstanding the clamps, will warp a little, being kept moist by the bees on the under side. These will barely answer. Another, that will keep its shape better, is made of several pieces. Two of them are \(21\times\) inches long by \(13\times\) wide ; the others, \(11\) inches long, and two \(6\) inches wide, and two \(43\times\) inches wide. The nails are driven through the narrow strips edgewise into the ends of the others. It presents this appearance. The open spaces are for the passages for the bees into the boxes, which set over them, and are covered with a box that fits on this rabbeting, similar to those for the other hive. The boxes are already described on pages \(51\) and \(52\).
Both kinds of the top--I might say honey-boards--described, are simply laid on the top of the hive. Others make them with heavy clamps on the under side, where they project over the ends of the hive, but I have found such inconvenient on some occasions. This point is not very important.
I have now described the hive as I use it, yet I am not sure but I should make an alteration if I were to start again. It would be only to take an inch off the height of the frames, making them nine instead of ten inches deep, and have one or two more in number. The difference is so triling, however, that I have no idea of changing now. The combs would not be quite as heavy when filled throughout, and less liable to break in moving. I have had an accident in that line on a warm day. Part of the combs in two stocks settled down on the bottom of the frames, and then leaned against the next one, leaving a space of some inches at the top, which the bees had commenced filling, before discovered, with new combs. Hence it was necessary for some surgical operations, not in setting broken bones, but broken combs. I provided myself with splints twelve and a half inches long, half an inch wide, and one-fourth in thickness. With the help of an assistant I got the combs back into the frames straight, and put two or three upright splits between it and the next frame, which kept it steady till the bees secured it by waving it fast again at the top.
As an additional support to these combs, and to give a chance for the bees to change position between different combs in winter, I have made a division in the frames the present summer (\(1558\)). I tried two methods like these.
The horizontal one is simply a triangular strip like the one at the top. The bees leave spaces on the top side for a passage, and begin another comb again on the angle, under side. The other division is a square of three-fourths of an inch, saved in two diagonally, and set up in the middle with the flat surfaces one-fourth of an inch apart. Of their utility, on the whole, I am yet in doubt. Several of my own and neighbors' swarms, put into these frames with the horizontal division, have not followed the angular edge uniformly. Those divided the other way on some occasions go straight, on some others on one side, and crooked nearly at right angles on the other. The divisions may not be the cause of the variations, yet there is room for suspicion in that direction, because last year (\(1857\)), with frames without any, I had much better work. In these whole combs I made passages for the bees through them by cutting a half inch hole through each with a small knife, in November. There is not a tenth part of the difficulty attending it that one unaccustomed to it would suppose. But still it requires some courage ; and I would
advise that any one who has courage to do it, had better take this course till satisfied that this dividing the frame has no influence in producing the crooked comba.
These frames are not made to advantage without power of some sort, and a circular saw. The flat strips are cut from boards the right length and thickness without the least difficulty. The triangular one is cut by securing on the saw table a board of suitable length and width, with one edge raised a few inches, while the other rests on the table by the side of the saw ; a guide on the other side of the saw, the same as for other sawing, guides it. It is necessary to turn the board over for every piece sawed from 1. A little practice will adjust the table (or board on it) to cut a triangular piece every time.
The frame, while being nailed together, should be held as near square as possible. A frame flattened to the table to hold the pieces in shape is a great help.
To operate with these frames a person requires a little more energy than with the box hives. The liability for being stung is somewhat increased, and unless a man can find sufficient nerve to take advantage of some of the facilities that the movable frames offer, when suitably protected, had better adhere to the simpler form. There are some men too ignorant, too conceited, too careless, too much engaged otherwise, to be fit to keep bees in any live. But such as are qualified ought to know how to make the most of them. As for myself, I seldom use any protection--sometimes throw a handerchief over the ears and back of the head. There is a way of avoiding stings in the face, acquired after working among them awhile, that is very difficult to describe, further than holding the head down. It is not to be expected that many will take the risks for all the advantages ; I will therefore, in addition to the protection mentioned on page 284, describe a "two hat" recommended by Mr. Langstroh. "It is made of wire-cloth, the meshes of which are too fine to admit a bee, but coarse enough to allow a free circulation of air, and to permit distant sight. The wire-cloth should be first fascened together in a circular shaps, like a hat, and made large enough to go very easily over the head ; its top may be of cotton cloth, and it should have the same material fastened around its lower edge. If the top is made of sole leather it will serve a better purpose. A piece of wire-cloth, one foot wide by two and a half feet long, will make a good fit for most persons, although persons with unusually long noses will require a larger size. It ought slightly to rest upon the crown of the head." He also recommended it 'Indin rubber gloves" as impenetrable to the sting, and better than any other covering for the hands.
With respect to this hat, some of my assistants have used such as were made with the wire-cloth only six inches wide, with a good length of cotton cloth attached below, the whole weight resting on the head, which can be moved about much better than if it rested on the shoulders. It is made by first cutting out a thin board the right diameter, to which the upper edge of the wire-cloth is nailed. A place in the centre is cut out large enough to fit the upper part of the head ; the inner edge is lined with cotton or other soft material to prevent it being painful, and the outside (top) covered with any light-colored cloth to keep off the sun. A person with such a protection over the face ought to feel quite safe, even if the bees are disposed to sting. It is a pity that any one with ability, inclination and time to devote to the business, should be deterred through fear.
To render bees less disposed to sting, Mr. L. recommends the utility of " sugar"," because a bee that has sweets with which to fill itself, or one that is filled, has no disposition to make an attack. To apply it--take off the honey-board, (the top of the hive) and'with a fine sprinkling pot your water well swetened with sugar directly on the frames, bees and combs." The bees, finding themselves surrounded with the sweets of life, have not time to resent anything, but slip it greestially. When this has been done thoroughly, and the bees are filled, they may resets almost any amount of insult without resentment. The combs may be lifted out and examined, and returned with impanity. This method, I find, when many are to be examined, takes too much time. I prefer using smoke, although they are not always a quiet, yet are sufficiently so for me at least. That made from tobacco is best. A person using a pipe or cigar will find it very convenient ; but best I am accused of encouraging smoking, by furnishing an excuse, I will give another method of using it. Take old cotton cloth some twelve inches square, and cover it with common smoking tobacco about one-fourth of an inch deep ; begin on one side and roll it up loosely--with a needle and thread faten it in three or four places ; it will burn a long time and not: blazs. The smoke of this blown on the bees will bring them into submission readily ; such as are at the top of the frames will at once go down out of sight ; others that appear will readily yield to the same treatment. The fire can now be put down on some handy study at other convenient phone-perhaps one corner of the hive--until continue to burn, and be ready at any moment when needed. Funk (rotton wood) is another thing strongly recommended by Mr. L. for this purpose ; it is more convenient, but not so efficient in quetting them after they have been disturbed a few times. Any hard wood that has just sufficient strength to hold ting--ther is good ; split or saw it into pieces oneand a half inches square and dry it thoroughly ; light one end--blow the smoke among the bees as occasion requires.
When about ready to examine the combs of any hive, it is well to have a spare empty hive at hand to receive and hold the first frame taken out, or set it in the place of the old one, and the frames can all be put in as they are taken out and examined. The hive just emptied can now be cleaned if it needs it, and be ready to receive the bees and cool on another when necessary ; in this way every hive in the apairy may be thoroughly sealed and cleaned if we wish it. When the frame rests on the rabteing the bees will wax it fast with propolisols. A small bit of wood or iron will be needed to go in between the frames to try them loose--a small object will do. Break all loose before lifting out any--the bees reset the slight air of this operation more than lifting them out, and will want a little more smoke to quiet them. Begin two or three frames from the one you design taking out, to gain a little room by moving them away from it, each one a little nearer the next ; then take hold of each end near where it reata on the rabteing--raise it carefully, if possible without striking the ends or other frames ; this, when examined, can be put in the other hive standing for the purpose. When they are returned, each comb should generally occupy the same relative position--the little irregularities or curves will then fit each other exactly. The bees that are on the under side of the honeycomb may be jarred off in front of the hive, by striking one edge down suddenly ; it then may be laid on the hive without crushing any bees. But if the hive to be examined contains surplus boxes, we must manage differently, yet they need not be disturbed. Take off the cover to the boxes and turn it bottom up ; the honey board is set over it, without injuring any bees that happen to be on the under side. To put it back without killing many requires a little care, as some of them will be just where they will be caught between the top of the hive and board. By sliding it a little you can usually save the bees
A swarm of bees is not as readily hired in one of these hives as the old box ; there is no difficulty however--it only takes a few minutes longer, and probably loss trouble than with many other patents. I have found it best to get the bees in a light box, and as soon as quiet, carry them to the stand they are to occupy, take off the honey-board and adjust the frames, raise the side of the hive an inch ; now jar a part of the bees (say a quart, near as possible) from the box directly on the top of the frames ; it no assistant is present to slide the honey-board lengthwise over the frames, the box must be set down while it is done. The balance of the bees may now be shaken by the side of the hive as soon as those inside commence humming, and they will soon enter.
I have several correspondents who have described and recommended a hiver used by themselves, which may answer instead of the box just described. I had used a similar contrivance, however, to some extent, before the publication of the first edition of the 'Mysteries,' and abandoned it, as the trouble and delay often more than balanced the advantages. This might have been in consequence of some defective arrangement. Those described consist generally "of a box about six inches square by twelve in length, made of light than boards, with a erent many holes through the sides--some have them without ends. Folles of different lengths are provided for the different heights that the bees cluster. As soon as the swarm commence gathering on any particular branch, the box is held as close to it as possible," and they will often, but not always, enter it. " When most of them are quietly inside, bring them down and hive them." I think if such a box would pay with the common hive, it would with this.
To transfer the bees and cool from the common hive into one of these frames, choose one with straight combs. I have found it best to first drive out the bees, (for directions see page 32) then take off the side of the hive and carefully cut out out the combs. If it contains brood, hay it on some yielding surface, made by smoothly folding several thicknesses of cloth ; put on a frame for a measure and cut the comb to fit exactly ; then with resin and beeswax melted together, and poured around the edge, it will be soldered fast. Otherwise the combs may be held by splints on each side, and tied together at the ends. When the combs are all secured and in the hive, the bees may be shaken out by it, which should occupy the old stand.
In transporting bees in this hive, it will be necessary to use considerable care to prevent breaking combs, as they cannot be inverted like the common one. Springs should be used invariably, as well as to have straw under them. The hive is prepared by simply flattening the honey-board with screws or walls, and when the frames have recently been broken loose, they will need fastening in their places with large tackts, but the propolisols will hold them when not broken beforehand. Write-cloth is put over the openings in the top and entrances. A cloth is then spread on the straw in the bottom of the wagon, and the hive set directly on it. Drive carefully, and avoid heavy shaking, and when the hive is taken from the wagon, taken the cloth with it. Moving them in hot weather should be avoided ; also, when extremely cold.
"We do not know what better proof could be given of the value of Mr. Quinby's teachings in reference to the best method of keeping bees, than the results he himself yearly arrives at. Two or three years ago we noticed as a remarkable fact, that he brought to this market 4,000 pounds of nice honey. But the present year he has sold here 22,000 pounds! all produced by himself and immediate neighbors."--American Agricultural, _N. Y._
"We can safely recommend Quinby's "_Mysteries of Bee-keeping."_ --Country Gentleman, _Albany._
"We know Mr. Quinby to be one of the best informed men on the subject of the Honey Bee, in America. We speak advisedly, for we have visited his place, and witnessed the operations of his interesting and numerous family."--Valley Farmer, _Ky._
"The work you need is entitled, "_Mysteries of Bee-keeping Explaned."--Life Illustrated, _N. Y._
"I shall here quote from one of the most common-sense works on practical bee-keeping which has ever been written in our language. and which I would strongly recommend every bee-keeper to purchase chase; I refer to the '_Mysteries, \(\oint\)c._," by M. Quinby. This treatiso bears marks on almost every page, of being the work of an accurate, experienced and thoroughly honest observer."--I. L. Langstroti, _Author of "_Hive and Honey Bee._"_All the Books on this Catalogue sent by Mail, to any part of the Union, free of postuge, upon receipt of Price._
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