BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
One way is to examine the combs, and if there is no broad or eggs present it is reasonable to suppose that the queen is gone, although sometimes you will be fooled,--as in the case of a shive having a virgin that has not yet begun to lay.
Not finding the broad, then look over the combs for her majestic, and if careful search fails to reveal her, it is pretty certain that the colony is quenceless.
Unless young eggs are given to them or a new queen provided, there is danger that they will introduce a living worker, with disastrous consequences to themselves. They will select one of the workers and feel her stimulative food, and she will lay, but all or her eggs will prove to be drones; and the eggs will be deposited irregularly over the comb, sometimes so many as there in a cell.
In most cases, giving the colony some young brood will make them raise a queen, and the laying worker will pilot. But sometimes they will refuse to rear a queen from the brood given, and will even kill a queen given them; in which case it will be well to move the three now depicted in numbers, and on its stand place a strong colony: taking the quenceless colony a few yards away and shaking the bees off in the air, when they will return to the colony on their stand and, if the honey flow is on, will be allowed to enter and go to work. The lay
## Chapter 1X Out aiparies. Moving bees
_Dist't Rule of more than you can choose._--Tim.
Unless the bekeeper is located in an unusually favorable locality, he will have to resort to a system of out aiparies, especially if he depends upon beceeping for a livelihood.
Generally speaking, it is the height of lolly to overstock a locality with too many colonies, for there is a limit to create the most promising districts. It is the lack of bee forage that has led the large beekeeers to adopt the plan of having several yards, ranging about three miles from each other, and thus resorting a splendal return from eachyard; whereas, if all were located in the homeyard, there would be little or no surplus, and in the majority of cases the bekeeper would have to feed for winter.
As a rule bees will not go more than three miles from their homes for honey, which gives them a circle of territory about six miles in diameter; so for this reason it will be best to have the yards no nearer to each other than three miles.
For instance, one yard could be located at the home, and a yard each other miles in opposite directions from the homeyard, so that no outyard would be more than three miles from home, and all within easy driving distance.
A small piece of ground can be bought or rented for the out yards and a small building erected for
## Chapter 11 Out ariaries Moving Bees
_Dept's Guide of more than you can drive._--Tim.
Unless the bekeeper is located in an unusually favorable locality, he will have to resort to a system of aut apariaries, especially if he depends upon level keeping for a livehould.
Generally speaking, it is the height of fully to overstock a facility with too many colonies, for there is a limit to even the most promising districts. It is the lack of bee forage that has led the large beekeepers to adopt the plan of having several yards, ranging about three miles from each other, and thus reserving a shelled return from each other, whereas, if all ever leunched in the homeyard, there would be little or no surplus, and in the majority of cases the bekeeper would have to feed four winter.
As a rule below will not go more than three miles from their home for money, which gives them a circle of territory about six miles in diameter; so for this reason it will be lost to have the yards in nearer to each other than three miles.
For instance, one year could be heated at the home, and a year each three miles in opposite directions from the homeyard, so that no sortyard would be more than three miles from home, and all within easy driving distances.
A small piece of ground can be bought or rented for the cut yards and a small building erected for the cut yards and a small building erected for the construction of the new space.
too much is worse than too little), and then puff a few whiffs on the queen in the cage, and gently drop her on top of the frames,--and in a jiffy it is done.
I use this method exclusively and seldom lose a queen, with the advantage of having her introduced at once in fact, I have taken a queen from a colony and in five minutes introduced another in this way.
Queenlessness is too serious a loss to a colony to be allowed to continue, and upon its discovery should be remedied at once. It may be discovered in several ways.
One way is to examine the combs, and if there is no brood or eggs present it is reasonable to suppose that the queen is gone, although sometimes you will be looked-as in the case of a hive having a virgin that has not yet begun to lay.
Not finding the brood, then look over the combs for her majeats, and if careful search fails to reveal her, it is pretty certain that the colony is quenceless.
Unless young eggs are given to them or a new queen provided, there is danger that they will introduce a laying worker, with disastrous consequences to themselves. They will select one of the workers and feed her stimulative food, and she will lay, but all of her eggs will prove to the drones; and the eggs will be deposited irregularly over the comb, sometimes as many as three in a cell.
In most cases, giving the colony some young brood will make them raise a queen, and the laying worker will quit. But sometimes they will refuse to rear a queen from the brood given, and will even kill a queen given them; in which case it will be well to move the hive row depleted in numbers, and on its stand place a strong colony; taking the quenceless colony a few yards away and shaking the bees off in the air, when they will return to the colony on their stand-and, if the honey flow is on, will be allowed to enter and go to work. The lay two much is worse than both little, and then puff a few shifts on the given in the case, and gently drop her or top up of the frames,--and in a jffy it is done.
I use this method exclusively and seldom lose a queen, with the advantage of having her introduced at once in fact. I have taken a queen from a colony and in five minutes intersended another in this way.
Speculations is thus serious a loss to a colony to be allowed to continue, and upon its discovery should be remedied at once. It may be discovered in several ways.
One way is to examine the commies and if there is, the formal or ease prevent it is reasonable to suppose that the queen is gone, although sometimes just will be isolated, as in the case of a three living living a river that has not been to be.
Not finding the broad, then look over the combs for her majids, and if careful search fails to reveal her, it is pretty certain that the colony is openness.
Unless young eggs are given to them or a new queen provided, there is a cluster that they will introduce a living worker, with distortions consequences to themselves. These will select one of the workers and feel her stimulating final, and she will live, but all have ages will prove to be dryness, and the eggs will be identical irregularly over the combs, sometimes as coming as three in a cell.
In most cases solving the colony some young brood will make them raise a queen, and the laying worker will join. But sometimes they will refuse to rear a queen from the brood given, and will even kill a queen given them; in which case it will be well to move the two more depicted in numbers, and on its stand place a strong colony; taking the juveniles colony a few yards away and shaking the bees off in the river, when they will return to the collows on their stand and, if the honey flow is on, will be allowed to enter and go to work. The lay, be well to move the two more depicted in numbers, and on its stand place a strong colony; taking the juveniles colony a few yards away and shaking the bees off in the river, when they will return to the collows on their stand and, if the honey flow is on, will be allowed to enter and go to work.
## Chapter 1X
Out ariaries Moving Bees
_Dept'I'life of more than you can others._--Tim.
Unless the beceeper is located in an unusually favorable locality, he will have to resort to a system of out ariaries, especially if he depends upon keeping for a jvelihood.
Generally speaking, it is the height of folly to overstock a locality with too many colonies, for there is a limit to even the most promising districts. It is the lack of bee forage that has led the large becepers to adopt the plan of having several yards, ranging about three miles from each other, and thus seeming a splended return from each yard; whereas; if all were located in the home yard, there would be little or no surplus, and in the majority of cases the beceeper would have to resel for winter.
As a rule heess will not go more than three miles from their homes for honey, which gives them a circle of territory about six miles in diameter; so for this reason it will be best to have the yards no nearer to reach other than three miles.
For instance, one yard could be located at the home, and a yard each three miles in opposite directions from the home yard, so that no outyard would be more than three miles from home, and all within easy driving distance.
A small piece of ground can be bought or rented for the out yards and a small building erected for (**90**)
#### 11.1.1 Develking of norm Aug.1.1.1
Unless the backeeper is located in an unusually favorable locality, he will have to resort to a system of unit aparities, especially if he depends upon heeskipping for a likelihood.
Generally speaking, it is the height of lolly to overstock a locality with too many colonies, for there is a limit to even the most promising districts. It is the lack of love formed that has led the large heeskipens to adopt the plan of having several yards, ranging about three miles from each other, and thus resouring a spherical return from each year: whereas if all were located in the home year, there would be little or as surplus, and in the majority of cases the heeskipens would have to feel for winter.
As a rule loses will not go more than three miles from their homes for honey, which gives them a circle of territory about six miles in diameter; so for this reason it will be best to have the yards on never to each other than three miles.
For instance, one year could be located at the home, and a year could three miles in opposite directions from the home year, so that no outyard would be more than three miles from home, and all within easy driving distance.
A small piece of ground can be bought or rented for the cut yards and a small building erected for (99).
a work house in which to store hives and do the extracting.
Even though a building is not erected, it is a wise thing to have at'least some kind of a box or storage place there in which to keep smoker, veils and tools, as each card should have its own working card is gathering, for while one card may be storing a goodly surplus, another may need to be fed; for this reason it is a good plan to have in each card a hive upon scales, so that as its weight increases it is a fair indication that the colonies in this particular card need more room.
If extracting is practically as soon as the honey is sealed, it will be necessary to have some room or wired-in place where the extracting can be carried on in security from rubber bees.
The out yards require constant watching, for should the bees become crowded in their hives, and the beekeeper fail either to extract or to give them added sugars. a lot of valuable swarms would get away in the beekeeper's absence, which would be a distinct loss.
If the bees are wintered outdoors with proper protective packing, a lot of work will be saved each year, as it would be quite a job hauling the bees which and forth to the home for cellar wintering. For this reason I have adopted exclusively the outdoor wintering of bees, both at my home and at our yards; and as the packing is ample and effective it also prevents the spring dwindling so common when bees are taken out of their winter cellar in the spring. (Norre: The best way to pack bees in either the home or wards will be fully treated under the chapter on How to Winter Bees.)
The question as to the number of out yards a man can profitably run, will depend entirely upon the man's ability as a manager and his adaptation to the work.
**There are some people who can successfully manage a few colonies at the homeyard, who, if**a work house in which to store hives and do the extracting.
Even though a building is not erected, it is a wise thing to have at least some kind of a box or storage place there in which to keep smoker, veils and forks as each sard should have its own working card is gathering, for while one sard may be storing a goodly surplus, another may need to be tied; for this reason it is a good plan to have in each park a hive upon scales, so that as its weight increases it is a fair indication that the colonies in this particular yard need more room.
If extracting is practical as soon as the honey is sealed, it will be necessary to have some room or wired-in place where the carstensten can be carried on in security from robber bees.
The out yards require constant watching, for should the bees become crowded in their hives, and the bekeeper tail either to extract or to give them added superps, a lot of valuable swarms would get away in the hekeeper's absence, which would be a distinct loss.
If the bees are witnessed endows with proper protective packing, a lot of work will be served each year, as it would be quite a job to halting the bees back and forth to the home for eellar wintering.
For this reason I have adopted exclusively the out-door survening of bees, both at any home and at early- and as the packing is simple and effective if also prevents the spring doubling so commun then bees are absent out at their winter earlier in the spring. (Norris: The last way to pack hives in either the home or our cards will be fully repeated under the clogter on. Thus to Winter Beets )
The question as to the number of our yards a man can profitably run, will depend entirely upon the man's ability as a manner and his adaptation to the work.
There are some people who can successfully change a few colonies at the home, sard, who, if they should launch out in a system of out a spiralies, would make of it a monumental failure; so for this reason my advice would be to " go slow," work into it gradually and let your growth be in proportion to your success.
There are some beekeepers who each year move their apiary from place to place, following the screen tackled over their tops and bottoms the night before, and then in the cool of the morning the hives should be placed on a wagon having springs and the body filled with hay or other soft and yielding material. Personality I use a frame of wood seven-legishts of an inch thick and on one side of this frame I check wire netting like a window screen; a few nails will hold one in place on the top and the bottom of the hive body. They can be used indefinitely and are also just the thing for shipping bees away by express or freight.
Above all things, have the hives so prepared and arranged on the wagon that there shall be ample ventilation while in transit, and when the out yard is reached unbicht the hores and take them some distance away until every hive is safely lifted from the wagon.
It is best not to liberate the bees till toward evening. In case no bees have gotten out the horses can again be harnessed to the wagon and the wagon drawn away some distance, till the screens can be taken off, the bees liberated and each hive left in position with bottom board and lid in place.
they should launch out in a system of out a spinaries, would make of it a monumental failure; so for this reason my advice would be to " go slow," work into it gradually and let your growth be in proportion to your success.
There are some beekeepers who each year move their unitary from place to place, following the screen tackled over their tops and bottoms the night before, and then in the cool of the morning the hives should be placed on a wagon having springs and the body filled with hay or other soft and yielding material. Personally I use a frame of wood seven-neighbits of an inch thick and on one side of this frame I track wire netting like a window screen; a few nails will hold one in place on the top and the bottom of the hive body. They can be used indefinitely and are also just the thing for shipping bess away by express or freight.
Above all times, have the hives so prepared and arranged on the wagon that there shall be ample ventilation while in transit, and when the out yard is reached which the horses and take them some distance away until every hive is safely lifted from the wagon.
It is best not to liberate the bees till toward evening in case no bess have gotten out the horses can again be harnessed to the wagon and the wagon drawn away some distance, till the screens can be taken off, the bees liberated and each hive. let in position with bottom board and lid in place.
## Appendix B Bee Stings Remedies
### A route of presentation in world a point of care
From a mistaken notion that bees are naturally unidictive and sting without the slightest processation, many people are deterred from having them on the place at any price.
As a matter of fact, a large number of stings that annually come to beekeepers as the tribute paid for the profits of the work, might with a little care be avoided. A lot of irrating causes can easily be removed, and preventives be employed to reduce stinging to a minimum. For instance, bees are not so cross when I don a white cotton suit instead of dark wool clothes.
Another cause of frequent stings arises from the fact that the bekeeper often goes right from the barn to the bee yard; and the odor of cattle, especially that of the horse, is sure to make bees mad; so for this reason I make it, a point to wash up and don my white painters suit.
Many times I am stung because, I am in a **burry**, to open a hive and do not smoke it properly and wait a few minutes before opening it; a little patience would have prevented a sting.
Kicking or bumping against loves will also make bees angry; a little care in this respect would remove to a large extent the stings we all receive.
The proper way to open a hive is to blow in a few puffs of smoke at its entrance and then pound
## Appendix B Bee Stings: Remedies
#### b.1.1 Ad name of presentation in words a round of (enc-)Marka
From a mistaken notion that bores are naturally vindicative and sting without the slightest provocation, many people are deterred from having them on the place at any price.
As a matter of fact, a large number of stings that ammually come to heckepers as the tribute paid for the profits of the work, might shift a little care be avoided. A lot of irrating causes can easily be removed, and preventtives be employed to reduce stinging to a minimum. For instance, bores are not sorens when 1 don a white cotton suit instead of dark wool clothes.
Another cause of frequent stings arises from the fact that the heckeper often goes right from the barn to the beer yard; and the color of cattle, especially that of this horse, is sure to make bores land, so for this reason I make it a point to wash up all don my white pointers' suit.
Many times I am sting because I am in a hurry to open a hive and do not smoke it properly and wait a few minutes before opening it; a little patience would have prevented a sting.
Riching or bumping against bores will also make bores energy a little care in this respect would remove to a large extent the stings we will receive.
The proper way to open a hive is to blow in a few parts of smoke at its entrance and then pound
As far as remedies are concerned I have but little faith in them. I have never known an instance where the application of mud to the part stung has made any great difference. As before stated, the puffing of hot sinoko on the place, after the sting has been scraped out, seems to be about the best remedy.
I know a beekeeper who declares that frequent applications of a solution made from equal parts of incureure acointics, chloroform and landuam have proved very helpful; no harm can be done by giving this a trial.
If the part stung should swell a great deal and become painful and feverish, the application of an ice bag, or elcits wet, with cold water, will feel very comfortable and reduce the swelling and remove the burning.
If the sting is on the hand much relief will be experienced by holding the hand in very cold water from time to time.
It is a fact that almost anyone may, from being constantly stung; become immune to the effects of the bee sting,
Be quiet in all your movements about the bees; never dodge or strike at a bee whose constant buzzling before your face may but he an expression of curiosity on its part; a sting is almost sure to follow a quick move on your part. If a beeviously follows you about and shows signs that the expects to sting, just take a slingle and hit him and kill him; but be sure of your aim.
How to Winter Bees
_Incare to make the little jokes in a smart bid for their long sky_--Harlet.
There are two plans in vogue among northern beekeepers as to wintering bees, some practising the outdoor wintering, while others store their bees in the cellar; and as each plan possesses real merit I shall describe them both.
The arguments advanced in favor of indoor sintering are that it does away with the trouble of having to pack for winter every hive outdoors; also, that it is a distinct saving in honey, as bees wintered indos need only about half the stores for feed as compared with those left outside; and that the danger of winter losses is greatly reduced.
Personal I have found that the packing of bees for winter is no more troublesome than the work of carting them in and out of the cellar, while the extra amount of honey required for outdoor wintering is more than made up by the absence of dwindings in the spring.
It must be said, however, that the majority of professional beebers prefer to winter their bees in a cellar or special repository for them, even though it entails a great deal of work to carry them in and out of the same.
If the colonies are to be wintered indos, they should be carefully looked over before cold weather sets in. Every colony should have at least fifteen or twenty pounds of good sealed-over honey, and if any are light they should have their
over the top of the case, all of which should be made wind and water tight with some good roofing-paper covering.
Of course you must so make your case that the bees will have their three entrance open at all times. These cases with their caps can be left on all summer, taking out the packing down to the top of the hive body, and are the best things with which to winter bees outdoors that I know of; when properly made they will last for years.
By this method the bees can fly out and empty their bowels during warm days in winter, and thus avoid bowel trouble so prevalent with colonies wintered indoors; and all the fuss and hotter of carting bees is done away with. This is the method I now use exclusively and I find it satisfactory in every way.
Prepare your colonies for outdoors wintering with a much care as outlined for
ellar wintering, a colony of a colony of a cellular in a cellular with the added or made cell with a cellular in a cellular with the added or made cell with a cellular in a cellular with the added or made cell with a cellular with a cellular with the added process.
The main thing to guard against in the warmer climate is that the bees do not run short of stores, as they will be rearing more or less brood all winter.
In any case see that the lids are water and wind tight, and it possible have the hives sheltered by a windbreak of boards or trees.
Even in the South the bees will be a trifite more comfortable if a super containing a draft cushion is placed over them in an empty super, although this is not universally practised.
## Disenses of bees
The time to cure best is before they are risk.=Tim.