BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
In Australia, the _Australasian Bee-Keeper_, edited by Mr. W. S. Pender, is published at West Maitland, New South Wales; in Canada the _Canadian Bee-Keeper_ is published monthly by the Horticultural Publishing Co., of Peterborough, Ontario ; while in the United States, the two principal bee papers are the _American Bee Journal_, published monthly by Messrs. Dadant, of Hamilton, Illinois, U.S.A., and
_Gleanings in Bee Culture_, also a monthly periodical, which is published.by the A. I. Root Co., of Medina, Ohio, U. S. A. These periodicals are extremely useful and interesting to colonial bee-keepers, and in most cases a specimen copy is sent by the publishers to those who apply for it.
Figure 54: Hoffman " Bar-Frames
them entirely destroy a weak nucleus in a couple of hours. Fortunately they will not swim.
In localities where they are troublesome all hives should, therefore, be stood on legs, about 10 inches or a foot long, and 13 inches square, nailed to the floor-boards and stands. When attacked by ants, each leg must be stood in a round tin filled with water or paraffin oil, or better still a mixture of both.
Iron shoes (fig. 55), intended to be screwed to the feet of the hive legs, and the cups to be filled with water or paraffin oil, may be had from Messrs. Lee & Sons, of Uxbridge, Middlesex ; Mr. George Rose, of 22 Bolton Street, Liverpool ; or from Messrs. E. H. Taylor, Ltd., of Welwyn, Herts. These are very useful when waging war against ants in England, but for hot countries the cups are generally too small, the great heat evaporating the contents so very quickly.
Other remedies recommended for getting rid of ants in hot countries are "Oscico," manufactured by Messrs. M'Dougall, of 66 Port Street, Manchester, which should be painted round the legs of the hives. Where this is not obtainable a mixture of tar, pitch, and lard, mixed in proportions to be determined by experiment (according to the heat of the climate), may be painted from time to time round the legs of the hives. Paraffin oil, mixed with six times its bulk of water, sprinkled over ants' nests every few days, is said to drive them away.
Figure 55: Iron Shoes for screwing to the base of Hive Legs.
_BY THE SAME AUTHOR_
_Just Published._ _Demy 8vo, cidth Third Edition, Revised._ _362 pages, 292 71th. and Working Drawing_
**Price ISS. net, postage is. extra**
**EVERY MAN HIS OWN BUILDER**
**OPINIONS OF THE PRES ON PREVIOUS EDITIONS**
**The Spectator says: "An extremely interesting and stimulating book.**
thoroughly practical..**
Mr. Gordon Samson, it may be well to point out for those who are encapsulated with his record, has built or arranged for the building of huadreds of houses."
**The Morning Post says: "Mr. Gordon Samson's book is sure... to remain with us..**
We welcome Mr. Gordon Samson's thoroughly sensible book with gratitude.. Mr. Samson explains with meticulous exactitude how each tool should be used, each rafter, lath, brick, or stone be applied.. Nothing is beneath his notice or too small for careful consideration."
**The Daily Mirror says: "An instructive book. remarkably loid and practical."**
**The Manchester Courier says: "From the drawing of the plans, the sinking of the foundations and the making of the bricks to the painting, glazing and paper hanging, everything is included."**
**The Westminster Gazette says: "A useful handbook."**
**The Glasgow Herald says: "Excellent."**
**The Smallholder says: "The author, who is a well-known architect, has a solution for the housing problem which is after my own heart.. It is a book which should be found in every smallholder's club library, if not on every smallholder's bookshelf."**
**The English Mechanic and World of Science says: "This is a book that hunderls of our renders will like. It is a book thousands more of us ought to like, because there would be less incompetence and ileness and poverty in England.. We could hardly name a more useful book."**
**The Carpenter and Builder says: "The valuable hints are numerous and suggestive."**
**The British Medical Journal says: "A most practical book."**
**The Sanitary Record and Municipal Engineer says: "We can heartily conommed this well-written volume, not only to those who own a piece of hand and propose to build thereon, but to intending Building and Sanitary Inspectors."**
**The Indian Eastern Engineer says: "Many Anglo-Indians, such as planners and pioneers of all kinds, will find the work very useful."**
**The Englishman says: "The book deals with every aspect of house building."**
**The New York Herald says: "The book, which may spur many a man. may incidentally lead him to greater individual independence."**
**The Transvual Leader says: "The general information given is such as to make it of very great value to any man-who needs to master the use of tools and the principles of sound building."**
**The Field says: "A very practical treatise."**
**The County Gentleman says: "An informing book. everyone setting out for Canada, Australia, or other sparsely settled portions of the Empire should take the book along, as it will be invaluable."**
**Farn and Home says: "It is a fascinating book."**
**The Livestock Journal says: "Mr. Samson must be given credit for having succeeded to an extent which will astonish those even who are well versed in the technicalities of the building trade."**
**The Irish Field says: "A really practical book. should appeal particularly to the Irish farmer."**
**The Yorkshire Post says: "To any small farmer or container who has faith in himself this book should be extremely helpful."**
**Literature says: "An interesting work. should be in every people's library, nmol or urban."**
**The Newcastle Daily Chronicle says: "Giving innumerable " wrinkles' of the sort that the ordinary artiana only learns by a tedious apprenticeship."**
**The Western Morning News says: "The book leaves nothing to be desired."**
**Published by Crosby Lockwood & Son**
**7 Stationers' Hall Court, Ludgate Hill, London, E. C.**
Inceasing the number of stocks of bees, 51-66, 101-111
Inenbating brood artificially, 104, 105, 109, 110
Infectious nature of foul brood, 81, 87
-- of Isle of Wight bee disease, 92, 93
Inner walls for doubling boxes and hives, sliding, 22
-- illustration of, :>2
-- illustrations of, :>2
Intimidating bees by rapping on the sides of the hive, 32
-- with smoke, 32, 33
-- with carbonic acid, 32, 34
-- how to form, 54, 60, 61, 101-10
Introducing queens to alien stocks and nuclei, 8, 43, 70, 71
_Irish Bee Journal, The,_ 76
Isle of Wight bee disease, 88-93
Italian or Ligurian bees, 12
-- hybrids, 15, 90, 91
Karoo bee, 14
Larva of bees, 4
Legs for beehives, 96, 113
Ligurian bees, _see_ Italian bees
Lime honey, 69
-- where stored, 4
-- baskets, 2, 3
Male bees, _see_ Drones
-- Manipulating bees, 30 34, 14
-- dilatations of, 19,
-- Medicaid syrup, 83, 84, 87, 92
-- should generally be thin, 92
-- but allustrations of, 18
-- but all, _see_ Wax moth
-- to be, 31-66, 101-111
Movable coml or bar - frame
-- hives, 16
-- but allustrations of, 17-20, 23, 02
_BY THE SAME AUTHOR Just Published. Second Edition. Profusely Illustrated Deny Svo, cloth, 147 pages_
Price 7s. 6d. net, postage 6d. extra HOUSES, VILLAS, COTTAGES, AND BUNGALOWS
For Britishers and Americans Abroad
## 1.1. Opinions of the Press on previous editions
**The Scottsman says: "Trenta its own special subject with lucidity and freshness. At once artistic and practical, and illustrated by many helpful plans and diagrams, it cannot but prove servieenble to architects, and to people who contenplate putting up the kind of houses it describes so well."**
**The Glasgow Herald says: " A very practical and lucid guide."**
**The Manchester Courier says: " Above all, the work is eminently practical. Sound advice is given."**
**The Surveyor says: " This little work by the author of _Howe to Plan a House contains descriptions, plans, and elevations of many very delightful and inexpensive villa and hungalows which are suited to the requirements of the Briton who may be seeking refuge under the Southern sun from his native climate. The letterpress is written in a hrexy, somewhat unconventional, and distinctly interesting style, and the drawings, which are numerous, are well produced. The hook is one which will prove of interest and assistance, not only to architects who may be called upon to design houses to suit conditions with which they are not familiar, but also to the client who is instructing him, and who will not be averse to receiving some timely hints as to the best way in which his money may be laid out."**
**The Builder says: " Many hints may be taken from the plans and other illustrations of buildings, many of which have stood the test of production and occupation."**
**The British Trade Journal says: " All who for business, pleasure, or health have to reside abroad, especially in warm climates, will find this volume an extremely interesting and useful guide."**
**The Estate Gazette says: " Prenches the art of comfort, planning houses at the same time with a special eye for those to whom cost is a consideration."**
**The Ceylon Observer says: " Should prove very useful.. The book deals in general with the requirements of dwellers in warm climates and the South, and the whole subject is thoroughly discussed."**
**The Cape Argus says: " Mr. Samson gives a great deal of information as to the style of house it is desirable to build in such a climate as our own.. Interesting sections are given on the influence of Dutch and French ideas on the old domestic architecture of South. Africa... Mr. Samson has done his work well."**
**The Lancet says: " Many of its suggestions are particularly suitable for those who desire a _pied-d-terre_ in the Riviera, Algeria, and other Senkh resorts.. Its subject matter will interest medical practitioners and others."**
**The British Medical Journal says: " It should prove a most useful book to anyone who has in view-the building either of a manison or a cottage."**
**The Mentone and Monte Carlo News says: " This is a book which. should take it own place in architectural literature.. Mr. Samson expounds very ahly and successfully."**
**The Riviera News says: " Mr. Samson shows himself particularly well informed on the question of-what constitutes a well planned and comfortable house for a Britiisher on the French or Italian Rivierm... Contains thoroughly sound advice."**
**The Birmingham Post says: " Mr. Samson-is an architet who has a great deal of information to impart."**
**7 Stationers' Hall Court, Ludgate Hill, London, E.C.**
**Beses in**
**[0.5cm]** **Steintene hive**
## Chapter 11 Hints for Hard Times.
16 pages. 16 pages. 16 pages. 16 pages. 17.
## 11 Appendix
BES IN A BAR-FRAME HIVE.
**Suocessful Bee-keeping** requires (\(a\)) thorough knowledge and manual skill; (\(b\)) a fairly good locality ; (\(c\)) physical capacity to bear stings without much suffering.
(\(a\)) is acquired by personal experience, but the aid of others at first is essential. Subscribe to the county or local association, so as to obtain the expert's aid; take the _Bee Journal_ (\(Id.\) weekly) * or _Bee Record_ (\(2d.\) monthly).*
(\(b\)) This is one in which there are fruit or lime trees in abundance, or fields of white clover, sainfoin, raspberry, or mustard. White clover, sainfoin, the raspberry, and lime trees afford the best harvests of honey. Heather gives valuable honey where it abounds.
(\(c\)) The remedies employed are endless. Remove the sting _at once_ with the finger-nail or with the back of a penknife, and _at once_ apply the coldest water you can get, until relieved. A small key-barrel pressed over the wound may bring out the poison. A drop of liquid ammonia, or damped carbonate of soda, is suggested by the B. B.K.A. \(\dagger\)
* 17, King William Street, Strand, London.
\(\dagger\) i.e. British Beekeepers' Association.
## 4 Bees in a Bar-frame Hive.
A colony is composed of a Queen (a fully developed female), Workers (undeveloped females), and Drones (males). The " lazy drone " gathers no honey, but mates with the queen a few days after her birth. When a queen dies and cannot be replaced by the bees, a " fertile worker " sometimes lays eggs. These are often laid in patches, two or three in one cell, and produce drones only. Break up a hive of this kind, and distribute the combs among other hives having good queens.
Begin in a small way; don't believe in large profits. The bees so fertilize the blossom of fruit and field, that every kitchen garden and every farm should have its hives. Here is one main source of profit.
Buy a vefl, and use it on a hat with a wide rim. Coarse black net is cheap. Make a piece about 90 inches by 26 into a bottomless bag with a hem at the top; add elastic about 16 inches long to go round the hat. Tuck the lower part well in. Some rich folks like a black silk veil. Thick woolen gloves _wetted_ protect the hands, but are a serious hindrance. A tightened string round the covered wrist and ankles will keep out " creepers; " gautlets for the arms, going over the sleeves, with elastic at each end, can be made or bought.
Buy a "Bingham smoker," as bees are usually subdued by smoke; use coarse brown paper rolled together, with the lighted end put in first; this will keep well alight if the smoker (when not wanted) is placed in an upright position. Many people prefer carbonic acid diluted. It is a disinfectant, and also quiets the bees. The solution of the B.B.K.A. is 1 oz. of Calvert's No. 5 carbonicacid, 2 oz. of water in an 8-ox. medicine bottle.\({}^{ullet}\) Shake well before using. Don't allow the acid to touch the skin. Damp a calico cloth large enough to cover the frames; moisten a goose-quill or small brush with the same mixture, and pass the quill over the alighting-board at the entrance. Remove the hive top, draw off the quill as gently as you can, and draw on the cloth. The bees detest the ascent, and will go down below. Be careful not to spill the carbonic mixture on the combs: honey readily takes up any odour, and is soon tainted.
**Buy a bar-frame hive** with ten frames of the standard size adopted by the B.B.K.A. Have this size only in all your hives; experience has proved it well-high perfect. At the last Royal Agricultural Society's show (1895) **Messrs.** Meadows (Syston, near Leicester) and Redahaw (South Wigston, Leicester) won prizes for cottagers' hives, 8a. 6d. each. A complete hive should have a floor-board, a body box, with ten frames, two division boards, a rack or upper box for sections or shallow frames, an inverting "lift," and a roof. The frames should have the metal W.B.C. ends. Good hives are made by Messrs. Abbott (Southall), Baldwin (Bromley), Blow (Wellwyn), Dines and Son (Maldon, Essex), Greenhill (80, Graham Road, Wimbledon), Howard (Holme, near Peterboro'), Lee & Son (6, Holborn Place, W.C.), Meadows (Syston, near Leicester), Neighbour (127, High Holborn), Overton (Crawley, Sussex), Redshaw (South Wigston, Leicester), and
\({}^{ullet}\) Mr. Cowan says, 1j oz. Calvert's No. 5 carbolie acid, 1j oz. of glycerine, well mixed in 1 quart of warn water.
## 6 Bees in a Bar-frame Hiv.
many others. In Scotland, Paterson (Pollokshields), Steele (Gauldry), McNally (Glenluee), Raitt (Blairgowrie). A faultless hive should not cost above 16s. or 17s. complete. Paint it a light colour, but avoid a large outlay at first.
**Buy a swarm in May or June** ; the earlier the better, if it is a good one, i.e. weighing about 4 lbs. The cost is usually 10s. to 15s. from a neighbour ; from a dealer, 3s. 6d. a pound plus box and carriage. Strong stocks are a certain success, weak an almost certain failure, so have a good swarm.
**A feeder** will be needed. The latter may be a wide-mouthed bottle. Fill with syrup, as per recipe at the end ; tie coarse calico or masin over mouth ; invert and place the mouth over the centre of the hive. Wrap the feeder round with carpet or flannel. The bees will draw the syrup through the muslin or calico on the top. Feeders of all kinds can be bought.
**Buy "thick " comb foundation** for the frames, 2s. to 2s. 6d. per pound. This is wax impressed with the outline of the bottom of the cells ; these the bees elongate, saving much time and trouble. Thin foundation for sections (2s. 6d. to 3s, per pound) in the supers over the body box. Cut the sheets of thick 134 inches long, 73 wide ; insert 1 inch in sawcut at the top of each bar frame. Wired foundation does not bend or get out of place, and is therefore better, but it is dear. Frames wired, with the wire embedded in the thick foundation, are good. For filling sections with thin foundation, buy Howard's die and fixing block, price 3s. 6d.
**Place the hives on level ground** facing the hives on level ground.
south-east, east, or south, not less than 3 feet apart, with a path at the back ; protect if possible on the north and-west. Never stand in front of a hive. Give room at the back, and keep the ground clean and clear of weeds.
**For swarms, a flat-topped skep is necessary, 16 x 9 outside (price 1s. 6d.).**
On receipt of a swarm, place a level board in front of the hive, raise the hive about 2 inches by level stones or wooden wedges, cover the board with a sheet or cloth reaching to the entrance, remove the top, the quilts, and, unless the swarm is very large, two of the ten frames, closing the others up with the division boards at each end. Take the box or skep with the bees, turn it over, and with a sudden jerk throw the bees on the cloth in front of the hive, striking the top of the box or skep. The bees will soon run in. Aid may be given by a feather or spoon. Hive in the early morning or evening. Put a sheet of stout calico or ticking or of American enamel cloth (the enamel downwards) on the frames. The bees do not easily propolize * this cloth. Do not cover completely at first ; a new swarm needs extra room and air. Put quilts of flannel or old carpet on the first cover. Cut holes in the centre of these for the feeder. Feed a new swarm with warm syrup in the evening. Avoid feeding with syrup by day. The bees will at once begin to enlarge the cells, and the queen to lay as soon as some are complete. Next day examine the hives, and see that the combs are straight. If the bees are very crowded, add two frames, a super also, should the swarm be a very large one. Always give the bees a little space (or work) in front of their needs. Give old combs alternately with new, if the former can be had.
**In handling bees, the absence of fear, and quiet treatment are essential. Never strike at a bee. Never move a comb hastily, nor hold a new comb horizontally ; if you do, it will probably break and fall. For nervous persons, Grimshaw's * "apifuge " is said to be a safeguard for the hands. Blow a little smoke into the entrance ; after a minute (while the bees are gorging themselves with honey, and so lessening their inclination to siting), take off the top and blow a little into the live at each end. Lift the quilt gently, opening part only of the hive. The carbonic cloth is very useful on the top, besides a little smoke below. Never open a hive in cold or rainy weather. Keep the interior warm by quilts and adjustment of the slides. Don't breathe on the bees, or brush the combs upwards. If stung when manipulating, put a little honey on the injured part after applying the water or other cures. The seent of the poison irritates, that of the honey soothes, the bees.
**Expect swarms** when the stocks are very strong, and the weather fine. To prevent swarming in very hot weather, shade the entrance, and lift the body box from the floor-board by stones or 'blocks of wood, but keep the body box level. Yet bees will swarm. An early and large swarm may probably swarm again. Have a hive ready with frames as before. Keep a syringe near the hive, and sprinkle the bees lightly with water when they issue, or if you find them on a bush or tree; they cannot then fly away. Take a large skep with the bunghole stopped, and a calico sheet; shake or brush the bees on to the sheet; put the skep gently over the bees, raise one side of it. If the queen is in the skep, all the bees will run in ; then place the bees in the second hive as before. Boughs must sometimes be cut away with a swarm on it, or bees brushed off a bush or trunk. In half an hour, when the bees have clustered inside the skep, remove them to their permanent place ; transfer to hive as before. If you wait until evening, carefully shade the skep from the sun.
Swarms at times are very troublesome; they usually issue between 10 and 3. The queen in after swarms or "casts" the day before often utters a shrill piping sound. The old queen heads the first swarm ; "casts" often follow on the ninth day, and others at brief intervals. Casts are sometimes useful, but the beginner, after the first swarm (if he seeks honey), should cut out all queen cells,* except the most perfect one. The prevention of swarming puzzles the wisest. Give room and work well in advance; add supers (a second and a third), putting new supers below those already on, and sections over shallow frames. Shade if possible. Raise the hive evenly from the floor-board all round, and admit air but not rain at the top; remove combs full of honey and extract, or put combs full of brood (after the bees have been jerked or brushed off) into
* A queen cell is somewhat like an acorn, much larger than ordinary worker or drone cells, about an inch in depth, one-third of an inch in diameter, hanging with its mouth downwards.
other hives; substitute two or three frames filled with "starters "* or foundation. If bees leave hives and supera, take out all combs with brood, fill places with frames (as above), and return the swarm.
**Supers** are usually "racks " of sections or of shallow frames; the wooden sections come chiefly from North America, and cost about 2s. per hundred. These are made in one piece, but if wetted are easily folded and filled with thin foundation with the aid of Howard's Die.
The sections have four and two "be-ways " cut in them; two ways suffice. Tin separators are needed: 1-lb, sections are best. Have all racks of one size, so as to fit one above another. Cover the top racks with quilts(as before) and make thoroughly warm. Bees need a temperature of 60\({}^{
m o}\) at least to make honey. Put supers on only in fine weather, when the hive below is full of bees, and new white comb appears just at the top of the combs in the body box. If the hive is not full, and the time is favourable for honey, remove one frame at each end, put division boards to contract the hive, and add a super. Young bees hatching out will soon increase the crowd. Place a fresh frame filled with foundation among the combs, and in five or six days (according to weather) another. A little honey scattered in the super will often draw the bees up. When the first rack is nearly full, add another below ; when the first is complete, remove it, using the smoker, carbonic cloth, or both, and put another rack under the first. Put a super clearer at night below the rack to be removed ; and remove rack clear of bees next morning.
**Backs of shallow frames** produce larger results than sections. Don't put the shallow frames too near to each other (three-quarters of an inch apart). Extract the honey when all the _cells are sealed_; put in fresh frames filled with foundation, but return the old combs late in the day when the honey is extracted, and withdraw the fresh frames. The smell of honey makes even the best bees reckless thieves, therefore don't tempt them to rob. Some insist on excluder-zinc to prevent the queen from laying in the shallow frames. With section racks it is scarcely necessary. The workers only can pass through this, not the queen. The proper size of queen excluder can be obtained from any good dealer.