BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
The above diagram is another pattern, and is still more simple in its construction than that with the V-shaped entrance. The wood for its construction is of the same dimensions as that above described; but instead of the entrance being cut out from the solid wood, it is formed by cleats being fixed on three sides, as shown on diagram. The short cleats on the end should be the width of the thickness of the wood in the end of hive (7-8 inch), and of the same length. So also should the side cleats be the thickness of the side of the hive, and the same length less the width of the end cleats; that is, somewhere about 19 inches. The cleats must be fixed on the surface of the bottom board as shown, and should not be less than 3-8 inch, nor more than \(\frac{1}{2}\) inch in thickness. It must be borne in mind that this last-named bottom board is designed for the hives in which the bottom-bar of the frame comes flush with the bottom of the brood chamber or super. The 3-8 inch thickness of the cleats forms the bee space, and is a substitute of the extra depth of the brood chamber, etc., thus permitting the brood chamber to be used as a full super or _vice versa_. This bottom board may be strengthened similarly to the former; or a grooved cleat may be used for that at the end; the grooved cleat aiding in strengthening the board, and doing duty as the end cleat shown in the diagram. To strengthen the forepart of the board a cleat about an inch wide and \(\frac{3}{4}\) inch thick is nailed or screwed, the latter being the better method, on the front of the under side similarly placed on bricks for the purpose of keeping it off the ground. In no case should an entrance be made in the end or side of a hive. If such be done it will be found impossible to substitute the super for the brood-chamber, or interchange one for the other. Of course, it will be observed that the bee entrance of this last-named bottom board is the full width, and differs materially from the former or V-shaped entrance. Nevertheless it can be contracted to any smaller width required, by means of triangular pieces of wood as shown in the Heddon Hive. Or it can be contracted by the means of two pieces of 1-inch thick wood cut in the form of a scalene triangle (three unequal sides), the longest side being half the length of the opening. If so required, the two entrance-blocks will completely close the entrance to the hive. The sides of these triangular blocks being of three different dimensions, offer any degree of contraction or expansion of the entrance to the hive, from that of full width to that of only sufficient for one bee to pass at a time. The longest sides of the entrance blocks being half the whole length of the entrance, the longest sides entirely close it when needed.
THE ALLIGHTING BOARD.
This may be made separately and detached from the bottom-board, as shown below.
**It will be seen that its position is in the front of the hive at the entrance. The inclined plane makes a splendid platform for weary bees to ascend to the hive. By means of these inclined plane alighting-boards the life of many a bee is saved, and many**
a load of honey carried home that would have been otherwise lost. It should be made the length of the width of the hive, thus the platform would be 16 in. x 10 in. It should be so constructed that the upper edge of the alighting-board should come flush with the surface of bottom-board, the lower edge resting on the ground. If a detached alighting-board be used, the bottom-board need not be the full 24 inches.
## Covers or Rooffs
Nothing is more injurious to bees than a leaky roof. I have seen where a drip has penetrated and run down the sealed brood, a space of from 1 to 2 inches of dead larvae on both sides of the comb; thus causing the destruction of not less than 20 square inches of brood, or about 500 young bees just ready to emerge upon the active labours of life. Far better kill 500 of the old bees that have nearly accomplished the span of life than the developing brood. From the former nearly all the profit has been gathered in, whilst with the latter the whole has to come. A leaky cover is always an irritation to a bee-keeper. As a rule, it is only discovered after wet days when a promise is made to repair, but the day of reparation seldom comes, especially with careless or half-hearted bee-keepers. Nothing can be substituted for a well-made watertight cover. No part of the hive requires to be more carefully constructed. A leaky cover is an abomination alike to the bees and the bee-keeper. The flat top is the easiest to make. It should always be without crack or joint, and of a light, thoroughly-seasoned wood, and so constructed that it should lie evenly, and with as small interstices between it and the hive as possible. Being the most exposed part of the hive, it is liable to expansions and contractions by the frequent changes in the weather, and is more apt to warp than any other portion of the woodwork. Grooved cleats fore and aft are the best preventive to minimise this twisting. In the grooving of these end cleats there is a deal of work for an amateur carpenter; nevertheless, it will pay in the long run. Cleats, 1 inch wide by \(\frac{1}{2}\) thick, nailed or screwed to the under side answer fairly well. A piece of wood, 22 inches long, and the full width of the hive, and 1 inch thick, is the thing required for a flat top roof. In the hotter parts of the State the thickness of the cover is an important consideration. The thicker it is, combined with lightness, the better, because it keeps out the heat, thus aiding greatly in keeping a lower temperature during the hotter months of the year, and a thick top is equally valuable in the colder districts, the temperature of the hive being kept more uniform.
Where economy in timber is a consideration, or where thick wood is difficult to procure, the hipped outage gable-end roof makes a capital cover. In its construction care should be taken that the joint in the ridge is perfectly watertight. This may be accomplished by painting the roof, and, while the paint is still wet.
placing a strip of calico about 3 inches wide over the joint and well-reubbing it down till it is evenly stuck to the woodwork by the point, then again painting the upper surface of the calico. A strip of tin or zinc may be substituted for the calico. In that case no painting will be needed, only for the preservation of the wood, and if the whole hive were so treated it would look better and last longer. Care must be exercised not to split the woodwork in the nailing of the tin ridge-capping. A fall in the roof about \(\frac{n}{2}\) inches and a 1-inch eave will be ample for all weather purposes. Gable-end roofs are great harbours for spiders.
## 11 The Quilt.
Place a piece of American leather-cloth between the cover and the top of the frames, the leather side downwards in the summer months, and the cloth side downwards during winter. This leather quilt has many advantages. If it be a flat top cover the quilt prevents the bees glueing the top bar of the frames to the movable roof of the hive. In the case of a cottage roof it prevents the bees going up and building underneath it. In either case the cover is removed with more freedom and without jarring the hive, and thus irritating the bees. Taking the quilt by one corner and gradually peeling off, prevents the light suddenly flashing on the bees. It also subdues the anger of a bad-tempered colony. By the aid of a quilt a bee-keeper can manipulate his bees with far greater freedom and security.
### Full-Size Bar-Frame.
These can now be purchased in the flat so cheaply that the home-made amateur article is only used by bee-keepers in the remote corners of the State, or by persons who have a deal of spare time on their hands. In previous pages I have objected to the use of self-spacing bar-frames, and the reasons are there given. Briefly, they are these : These frames can only be made by machinery or practical tradesmen. Of course, if they are purchased that is not a valid objection, but sometimes it is found to be absolutely necessary to space closer than the orthodox bee-space between the frame. Self-spacing bar-frames cannot be so manipulated. This objection is a valid one. Again, any small bit of soft wool can be run out for the construction of frames,especially where the bee-keeper is so fortunate as to be in possession of a small treatable circular saw, or so clever as to make one out of the remains of a corn sheller and an old sewing-machine. I have seen a very serviceable circular saw so constructed. The following are the dimensions for a full-size standard Langstroth bar-frame :== A B, out to out, 9 i-S inches; C A, out to out, 9 inches. The top bar must be 191 inches, _i.e._, out to out of C D, 17 5-8 inches; two bee-spaces, one on either side, 4 inch, equals 1 inch : plus the 4-inch rebate on each end of the hive equals 1 inch; total, 19 1-8 inches (17 5-8 plus 1 plus 1 plus 1 plus 1 equals 19 1-8 inches).
From these measurements it will be seen no note has been taken of inside measurements. These will be always regulated by the thickness of the bars. It is not imperative that any inside dimensions should be adhered to, but the outside measurements should be scrupulously followed.
In width of the top and side bars should be 7-8 inch, but the bottom bar not more than \(\frac{1}{2}\) inch. In fact, the narrower it is the better, so long as there is substance sufficient for nailing purposes is all that is needed. A thin bottom bar has its advantages--bees, in building their comb from the top bar downwards, and no matter in what position the hive stands, will be sure to build their combs plumb. In completing their combs bees always leave bee-space between the base of it and the bottom of the hive. In the construction of comb the mid-wall--that portion of the comb forming the base of the two sets of cells-- is the first constructed, and is always kept a little in advance of the construction of the side walls of the cells, giving the comb, as the building advances, the appearance of an axe-edge, being b sides towards the point. If the frames have been hung perfectly pinch, and it is imperative they should be, if only for ease and freedom in manipulation, the wax-working bees are constantly building towards the centre of the bottom bar. From the above it will be seen that the increment of the comb is always making addition to the fine edge of the mid-wall, and as the wax-workers come nearer to the bottom bar, the line of their vision being interpreted by it, they conceive it to be the floor of their home. They thus finish off their comb within the bee-space of the bottom bar. Now, if the bottom bar be narrow, and the narrower the better, the line of vision of the constructing bees is carried over the bar to the floor of the hive. The result is the incorporation of the narrow bottom bar with the comb, leaving bee-space between it and the floor of the hive, culminating in the comb being fixed to the whole of the sides of the frame. This strengthens the comb for extracting purposes, and minimises the trouble of the manipulation thereof. In thickness the side bars should not be less than \(\frac{1}{2}\) inch, whilst the top bar should be \(\frac{1}{2}\) inch to \(1\) inch. A thin top bar containing a heavy comb of honey is always iiable more or less to sag. Another reason given for the thick top bar is, the queen is less liable to go up in the super and convert it into a brood chamber. The frame of the super, or the brood chamber, may be strengthened by means of a centre bar. It is not absolutely necessary to use a centre bar in brood frames, as in the ordinary honey seasons the little surplus honey in them should never be extracted. If a thick top bar be used, the shoulder should be reduced to the \(\frac{1}{2}\) inch, or the rebate in the ends of the hive must be sunk deeply enough to accommodate the extra thickness of the top bar. It will be found much easier to reduce the shoulders of the frame than to form a deeper rebate in the ends of the hive.
## Centre Bar
(Shown in the diagram by means of a dotted line).
The centre bar should be 3-8 inch square, and slightly longer than the side bars. It should be sprung into its position. It will require no other fixing. As the bees work they will inclose it in the comb, and the bar will be as firm, _or_ firmer than if it had been fixed by nailing. This centre bar entirely supersedes the necessity for wiring, a consideration that should not be over looked. It is also much cheaper. Then the contrast in the saving of time between the inserting of the centre bar and wiring is greatly in favour of the former. "Time saved is money earned." For a centre bar nothing but the waste ends cut to length is needed. The wire of a frame, when the foundation is inserted, must be fixed with an embedder, or the bees will not work thereon. The many little tools or implements required in wiring are saved by this little simple perpendicular centre bar.
## Half-size supers or Shallows.
In dimension these are exactly the same as the full-size frame, only the side bars are cut half the length--that is, \(4\frac{1}{2}\) inches in depth from out to out. It will be noticed that is a 1-16 inch less than a true half. These shallows are now coming very much to the front. They have advantages over the full-size frames. When honey is coming in sparingly, the bees take to them more readily. The honey ripous in them quicker, and the cells are sooner capped. There is an advantage also, in the uncapping for extracting purposes.
## The follower. or division board.
No hive is complete without a division board. It is a plain piece of board wrought in the form of a full-size frame--length \(17^{3}_{3}\) inches and 9 3-8 inches deep; in length and depth a little more than the frame. The shoulders in followers must be cut to the same gauge as the frames, so that the top of the follower shall be flush with the tops of the frames when they are in position in the hive. The uses of a follower are to prevent the bees scattering too far over the hive, or, in case of a small swarm, to confine them to one side of the hive so that they may build their comb more regularly. Bces should never have more room than they can occupy, without being too much overcrowded. With judicious management a follower is a great help in aiding the bees to fill up the frames with comb more systematically and regularly. It is also of great value in wintering, as by its aid the bees are kept more snugly, and there is not the loss of animal heat as is the case when bees are wintering in a full-sized live which they cannot fairly well fill, and can room over at their own sweet will
**FRAME BLOCK.**
Accuracy in the external measurements of the bar-frames, independent of the name they bear or of the form or size of their make, is of utmost importance. Whatever may be the design of the hive selected, and the size of the frame adopted, _uniform external measurement_ must be continually observed. To facilitate this, many methods have been tried, and many an invention put before bee-keepers all with more or less success, but none perfect. Some of them, perhaps the most, have been cumbersome to handle, and difficult to adjust. Amateur bee-keepers who make their own frames soon discarded them, and fell back on_ hapha-hazard guesswork, resulting in the discovery that home-made bar-frames are always more or less awry, fail to hang plumb, and if there be a sufficiency of bee space between the top bars, there is too much between the bottom bars, or the bees will persistently build between the side bar and the hive. They try every remedy suggested, and finally come to the conclusion that to be a fairly good practical bee-keeper needs a well-fitted carpenter's shop, plenty of patience, and an apprenticeship to boot.
Now the following very simple contrivance will save an infinite amount of trouble, a deal of vexation of spirit, and amateur carpentering, and bee-keeping by means of its use will be voted an enjoyable and profitable pastime.
This bar-frame block, besides being applied to the use named, is also a permanent gauge for all portions of bar-frames. In diagram No. 1. A R is the gauge for the top bar; G H that for the bottom bar; and E F, less the thickness of the bottom bar, is the gauge for the end-pieces.
It may be a difficult matter in country places to obtain or make the spiral springs referred to. In that case the main-spring of an old American clock will be found as serviceable as the spiral spring.
The clock spring must be curved, and have sufficient strength in it to keep the end-pieces firmly against sides of the bar-frame block. On more than one occasion when even the clock spring was not obtainable, I have substituted a piece of iron loop which did remarkably well for the time being.
## Chapter Xxiv.
### Concrete FLOORS.
These are a combination, forming at once both a hive-bottom and a hive-stand. Among bee-men, they have called forth a good deal of comment, oral and written. Some of these comments are adverse, and others complimentary. The objections are:--They are too expensive, too heavy, and too hot. Too expensive! A cask of cement costing 14s. in Sydney will make fifteen of them; that is as cheap as wood, may cheaper, because they are everlasting. Too heavy! This will depend on the gumption of the maker; if he places the mould on the site where the hive is to stand he will have no occasion to remove it, and the weightiest object to handle will be the mould. Too hot! They were used at the Agricultural College all summer, and were not found so. If this object had seen them in use, he would have said otherwise.
**Their advantages**: Being made on the surface of the ground there is no harbour for bee vermin, such as spiders, earwigs, etc. An eight-frame hive covers a superficial area of 280 inches, and that of the concrete floor about 700 inches; being considerably more than twice the area of a hive, it thus prevents weeds etc., overgrowing the hives, and gives free access for the bees at all times. They are fireproof. Of late many a hive of bees would have been saved if these concrete floors had been used; wooden ones soon take fire. They are much cleaner than wood; are not affected by conditions of weather, therefore they do not shrink, crack or warp. They never require painting, and will remain serviceable for generations, improving with age. Can this be said of wood? The bee entrance can be contracted to nil or expanded to \(\underline{2}^{1}_{2}\) in. x 9 in., so that the bees can fly directly in among the combs if it be so desired. The entrance has a fall of \(\underline{2}^{1}_{2}\) inches in 9 inches, so no rain can beat therein.
The diagrams are lettered from "A" to "E." "A" is the frame in which "B" was moulded. The bevel of it is 9 in. x 18 in. It gives a full width entrance to an eight-frame or a ten-frame hive, and the first concrete floors used at the HawkesburyAgricultural College were of this type. ''C'' is the frame in which ''D'' was moulded. It will be noted that the difference between ''B'' and ''D'' is that the latter has a 4\(\frac{1}{2}\) inch shoulder on either side. This when the hive is brought fully forward, gives it a more solid foundation to stand on, and at the same time gives protection from cold currents of air sweeping underneath the hive. ''E'' is the tongue that forms the entrance.
In modelling these floors proceed thus: Select the site, place the moulding frame thereon, first ramming the soil firmly down; try the \(frame\) with a spirit level; when true, fill in about 1 inch in thickness the full _width_ of the frame, and about 10 inches on the end where the shoulders of the floor are, with two of sand and one of cement. Insert the tongue, as shown in ''C,'' then fill in the remaining portion of the frame with concrete, level with the top of the frame. Leave all to stand for twenty-four hours or more. Take out the tongue (''E''), lift the frame (''C'') by the handles as shown. The block will appear very rough, but finish it off with a thin coating of a mixture of two of clean sand and one of cement. The more cement is used in this final coating the more impervious to damp will the block be. Put this final coating on with a trowel. When the whole block is coated, if it be rubbed over with a piece of old bagging made very wet, there will be a very good smooth surface.
The concrete can be formed with gravel. sand, and cement, one part of the latter to two of the former: or fill in the frame with broken bricks, stones, etc., and pour in the mixture of sand and cement until the frame is full, when the whole mass may be gently rammed together.
The Hawkesbury Agricultural College
Apiracy.
With the subject of increasing the facilities for practical instruction in agriculture at the Hawkesbury Agricultural College, the Min-ter for Agriculture decided some time ago, to have a new apiary laid out on an extended scale, and to equip it with everything calculated to be of educational interest not only to the college students, but visitors. I have had the privilege of super-intending this work, and now take the opportunity of affording readers a very full account of what has already been accomplished in the arrangement and equipment of this important branch. The site chosen for the new apiary is about a hundred yards distant from the old one, and to the front of the old honey-house, which is being retained in its present position with sundry alterations. There were too many twists and turns from the old apiary to reach the extracting-room. By referring to the ground plan it will be seen the present apiary is directly in front of the last-mentioned room, and the footpath leading from the one to the other is direct.
In shape this new area is the same as the old one--oblong; but the area is greater, being 120 yards long by 80 yards wide. The site is a little too flat; but by artificial means the drainage can be made fairly effective. It is enclosed by a post and wire fence with a top rail. The site is laid out law-like, or, perhaps more correctly speaking, as a parterre, being interspersed with flower beds and flowering shrubs. All these have honey-bearing characteristics. Of course, all beekeepers know the uselessness of planting flowers solely for the honey they produce. Nevertheless, here and on other parts of the college grounds honey-producing plants are and will be planted for experimenting in their honey-yielding value. The apiary is intersected with a series of paths. These are 4 feet wide,2. Hive and Section Cradle Filled.
and well gravelled, running parallel with sides of the enclosure, and others at right angles thereto.
Among the most useful and novel additions to this new apiary are the concrete floors for the hives; they are the author's improvement upon the old wooden floor. These serve a double purpose, being at one and the same time both stand and bottom-board for the hives. Those shown in the illustration are made from the mould A shown on page 152 ; those made from mould C are on the other side of the apiary, and do not come into focus; the measurements will also be found on page 152. The advantages of these concrete hive-stands will be at once apparent to every bee-keeper. Being slightly let into the ground, the sloping portion of the stands are on the same plane as the lawn ; and the hive, when placed on the stand, is 3 in. higher. There is no wood in connection with the stand or hive bottom, therefore no decay. The stands are solid, having no interstices of any description, and being bedded in sand, there is no harbour for vermin. Being solid, and the superficial area greater than that of the hives, grass and other weeds cannot grow so close to the hives, and so interrupt the ingress or egress of the bees. They are cool and dry, and by moving the hives fore and aft they are easily washed and dried. To accommodate the hives to these stands, it is necessary to add a three-eighth inch depth to the brood-chamber, so as to permit bee-space beneath the frames ; thus the brood-chamber is not interchangeable with the supers. By removing the hive towards and over the slope in the stand, any amount of space can be given for ventilating purposes.