BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
present a yielding pressure; and, what is of considerable importance, they are not affected by propolis; at the same time they effectually close up all little air-gaps or interstices between the sections and fences.
In the illustrations on preceding pages, showing the supers, only narrow sheets of foundation (or starters) are shown in
## 6. Comb Honey.
1.1.1 _supers of half-depth extracting-frames full of comb from the home apiary, and put them on 30 hives in the out-apiary at the same time that I put sections on the other 30 hives. It four or five days the extracting-combs were full of new honey, and the bees excited and busy at their work, while most of those having sections were loafing, and some had swarmed._
I raised the combs by putting a super of sections between them and the broad-nest. At the end of two weeks from putting on the combs those sections under the combs were better filled than those on the hives that had no combs. As soon as the combs were sealed, I put them away to extract, having that amount of honey extra, and the bees started nicely in their work. I had only about a third as many swarms from those hives as from the ones with sections and no combs.
I liked the plan so well that last year I had enough of those little combs built to furnish a super of them to every colony that was to be run for section honey.
I tried the plan again this year, and from 75 colonies at the out-apiary I had 8000 fine white matchable sections, about 500 hts of unfinished and imperfect sections, 500 hts of extracted honey, and 40 lts. of beeswax, and two barrels of vinegar. We got shirt of fixtures, and I had to cut out some of my little combs and have the bees built them again to keep them at work. I forgotten to mention that we sell a lot of those combs to families for home use, as we can sell them cheaper than sections. When we cut them out we do so after extracting, and then the washings make good vinegar, and the was go into the solar extractor, and is of the best quality. We leave half a nach of comb at the top of the frame, to save putting in foundation, I do not believe we shall ever be able to overcome swarming entirely, but I believe my plan stops the loafing better than any thing else I know of. We had 50 swarms this year, but no loafing in the out-apiary. We have bought an extractor for that apiary, and will continue to run on that plan to start them to work. After the first super of section- is well started there is no more trouble about loafing My neighbor's bees I afied and swarmed through all the best of the season, while mine were hard at work.
### 6.1.2 _Mas, A. J. Barber._
_Mas, Co., Nov. 17, 1998._
Other correspondents to _Gleave in Be Culture_ have reported good results from following the same methods. It is particularly applicable where both comb and extracted are called for.
Mr, E. D. Townsend, Remus, Michigan, the other correspondent. goes one step further than the Barber plan by producing comb and extracted honey _in the same super._ Instead of putting on a case of extracting-combs, and afterward substituting therefor one containing sections, he has a special super which contains _both_ extracting-combs and sections.
The illustration shows an ordinary comb-honey super containing 4x5 sections. This is equipped precisely the same as any other super for sections except that it has extracting-combs with closed-end frames on each outside. Where a super of this kind is placed on a hive the bees immediately occupy the drawn comb at the sides of the super and begin their storing. The comb being already drawn out, it is a very inviting place in which the bees can begin storing. Having made a nice start in the two side extracting-combs they work toward the center--that is to say, they begin to draw out the full sheets of foundation in 4x5 sections next to the combs, and store in them. When work is once in full progress in the side sections of the super, the center ones will take eire of themselves, with the result that every section is finished about the same time, and of about equal fullness. When the super is completed, the two extracting-combs will be filled and capped as well as the section honey-boxes. The former can be extracted and used over again.
It will be seen that the extracting combs s-his is that the center sections will be filled in advance of the outside ones; and by the line these latter are filled, all the former will be travel-stained, and may induce warning in the meantime.
When Mr. Townsend first began this scheme of comb and extracted honey production from the same super he had in mind by haiting the bees up into the sections; at he incidentally discovered that, inasmuch as the bees would enter such supers without hesitation, he thereby almost entirely overcane swarming.
Comb-honey producers all know that the ordinary section-super placed on a hive is very often not entered readily by the bees. The series of little compartments (the sections) cause the bees to sulk, and before they actually enter the super they may warm in disgust.
It is well known also that, after bees are nee started going above, there is less inclination on their part to swarm. Mr. Townsend finds that the two side extracting-ombs that he puts in every comb-super tart the bees into the super about as readily s they would if containing extracting-ombs only. The whole effect of this procedure is such that swarming is reduced to minimum--almost brought under control. For the local markets, the side extracting-ombs can be cut out and sold for chunk oney at about the same price as that in the elections; so that there need be practically o loss; or when there is a call for liquid oney it can be extracted.
The Danzenbaker super, already described, with its 4x5 sections, section-holders, and lunar-enbaker frames, is the best suited to carry out the Townsend plan.
Even the shallower supers using 1x44 sections can be similarly arranged.
At times bees will show a disposition to lonf, and consequently a disinclination to go into the sections. They will hang out in great bunches around the entrance, while the surplus-apartment is left almost entirely vacant, to say nothing of foundation not being drawn out. This condition may be wholly due to the backwandness of the season. During those years (which are not frequent) when the bees have not yet filled their broad-combs after the honey season is nearly over, and, as the days progress, make little if any increase in the quantity of honey, we can not expect the bees to go above until all the available cell room below has been filled, as a rule. When this is ernumed full, and there is a rush of nectar, they will commence work in the sections. We will suppose you have a fair average season, and some colonies are storing honey in the supers, and others are not. In the latter, the trouble is clearly with the hive or with the bees. Some bees are much slower in going above than others. If honey is coming in freely, they can be buited, usually, by placing a partly filled section or two, of the year previous, in the center of the super. Or, better, give then a shallow extracting-super _a lot_ Barber; or, perhaps better still, give them a super of sections and a pair of extracting-combs as advised by Townsend. If none of these methods work go to a hive where the bees are already working in sections, if you can have access to such a one, and remove sections, bees and all, that are actually at work drawing out the comb, and place them on the hive that won't go in the supers. This will start any hive at work in the sections that contain bees enough to go above. The sections should contain full sheets of
foundation, because it has been shown, over and over again, that bees are much more ready to accept full sheets than starters. If you have complied with this, perhaps the hive is not properly shaded, and, as a consequence, the surplus-apartment is overheated by the direct rays of the sun. In this event, if you can not exemporize some kind of shade,use a shade-board, and smoke the bees above. (see aparx.)
If the methods given still fail to force your bees to occupy the sections, and you have followed faithfully the instructions,the trouble may be because honey is not coming in sufficiently rapid, because the brood-nest is not yet filled, or because the colony is too weak. It requires _strong_ colonies under _any conditions_ to do much work in the supers. The hive should be boiling over with bees.
Tiering up.
If honey is coming in at a good rate, you may expect if the bees have got started above) that the super, or case of sections, will soon be filled about half of honey--with the sections in different stages of completion. When the super is about half filled with honey, raise it up and place another empty super under it. About the time this reaches the condition of about half completion, raise both supers and put under another empty one. This process of "tiering up," or "storifying," as it is called by the English, may be continued until three or fourthing, depending upon the length of the honey-flow and the amount of nectar coming daily. In the mean time the ripening process of the honey in the first super continues. It is not practicable to tier up more than two high.
Care must be exercised in tiering up, or a lot of unfinished sections will be the result. When the honey-flow is drawing to a close, and you discover that there is an evident decrease in the amount of nectar coming in, give no more empty supers. Make the bees complete what they have on hand, which they will do if you are fortunate enough in four calculations as to when the flow of nectar will end. If uncertain whether another super is needed or not toward the close of the harvest, it is often advisable to put another super _on top_. The bees are not likely to commence on this till they really need it. It is impossible to give general rules on tiering up: but with the assistance of the foregoing you are to exercise your own discretion.
when and how to take off sections.
Usually it is not practicable to wait till every section in a super is complete : that, until every cell is capped over. Those sections most liable to be unfinished will be in the two outside rows, and these the bees will be long in completing. If the honey-flow is over we would not wait for them to be completed, but would take the whole super off at once. The longer it remains on the hive, the more travel-stained the honey will become, and the more it will be soiled with propolis. Bees have a fashion of running through their apartments with muddy feet, and in this particular are not so very much unlike their owners. However, if you desire a really fine, delicious article of comb honey, one more pleasing to the tongue than to the eye, and are not particular about the white marketable appearance of the equipars, leave the super on the hive for two or three months. Most bee-keepers agree that comb honey left on the hive acquires a certain richness of flavor not found in honey just capped over. Although such honey is really better, it is not quite so marketable.
how to get bees out of the sections without bee-seacaps.
There is one danger in leaving honey on till after the honey-flow. As soon as you open the hive, the bees, especially hybrids, are apt to uncap and carry some of the honey down. Whether you leave it on the hive or whether you remove it as soon as capped, the methods of taking off and getting the bees out will be much the same. In the latter case, some surpers may not be filled with honey, although a glance at the top may show nice white capped combs. Satisfy yourself by lifting one up and looking under. If capped below, it may be removed. To take off, how smoke into the top of the super for a little while, to drive most of the bees down: lift off the super, and set it on end near the entrance not as it sits on the hive, or you will kill bees. If honey is coming in freely, robbers will not molest, and in two or three hours the bees will have left the super and zone into the hive.
Until you have had some experience, perhaps your safest plan is, never to set a super of honey by the hive. Sometimes it may be safe to let it stand there all day when the bees have more than they can do on the flowers: but, again, all at once it may start the bees to robbing, and demoralize them generally.
If the honey flow has stopped or is tapering off, to avoid the possibility of robbing it would, perhaps, be better, after smoking the bees out as far as possible, to give the super a vigorous shaking in front of hehave; then with the bee-brush clean off the bottom and top of the super; this will clean out nearly all the bees. The super should then be placed inside of a building. What few remain will deserve, fly to the window screens, and get out through the bee-escape, which should be provided in all well-regulated honey-hoses. But a better plan, perhaps, would be to shake out most of the bees as before described, then stand the supers on end, and set over a case with bee-escapes on top, like that shown in the sub-joined engraving. This is used by W. M. Whitney, of Lake Geneva, Wis.
Martin's super-jouncer.
Another very excellent plan for getting bees out of supers without a bee-escape is described by Mr. John H. Martin, under the _nom de plume_ of " Rambler," in _Glcamings in Bee Culture_. It is simply a framework of suitable size bolted together, having four stont legs, braced and cleated in such a way as to hold a super of sections right over a cloth tray just beneath. Super, framework, and all, or "jouncer," as Mr. Martin calls it, are raised up and set down on the ground with a quick sharp jar. This "jouncing" is repeated in rapid succession until all the bees are shaken out on the cloth, from which they can easily be dumped in front of the hive. The work can be done more quickly than it takes to tell it.
There are those who are strong enough in their arms and huck to shake nearly all the bees out with a tenuous motion without a pioneer; but it is buck-aching work for the best of them.
two scrapers can work at a time, the sides of the box, or try, being cut away in such a way as to allow a knife to scrape down clear past the edge of the section. Each section, as it is scraped, is put into the shipping-case. We have seen this table in operation and know that it is just the thing for hand scraping.
unfinished sections.
The more carefully the apiary is manipulated in the matter of working for comb honey, the fewer will be the number of unfinished sections; but all such are not always the result of improper working of the colonies. With the best of care a sudden stoppage of the honey-flow will throw on the bee-keeper a lot of these sections; for such stoppages of the nectar supply, no one can foresee in some localities. In the alfalfa regions, and in some other places, it can be told within a few days when the honey will stop; it is then possible so to arrange the supply of sections on the hives as to leave very few of them unfinished when the season does finally close.
How Dr. Miller prevents an overisupply of unfinished sections.
Dr. Miller takes off his supers as soon as a majority of the sections in the super are finished. These latter are set aside to be scraped and cased for market, while those unfinished are set back into the supers--the supers to go back on the hives immediately, consequently _before the honey-flow stops_. Ily proceeding thus he manages to have few unfinished sections at the end of the season. Those thatare returned to the hive he fitting-ly styles " globacks." These, as fast as they accumulate in the honey-room, are put into the regular hive-supers. Part of these go-back supers may be placed on colonies that show a special aptitude* for finishing up work already begun in sections, and a part may be placed on the regularcolonies already at work on their own sections. The great advantage of this plan is that it allows the sections to be taken off before all in the super are finished, consequently before any of the central ones have lost their virgin whiteness.
Such a plan of procedure is possible only in localities where the honey-flow lasts sufficiently long, not only to fill two-thirds of the sections full in the supers, but enough longer to finish out supers of gobucks placed on hives afterward.
In any case, some unfinished sections will be on hand at the close of the season; for if the surplus be all stored in sections it is not possible to give the exact number of sections that will be finished.
feeding back after the honey-flow to complete unfinished sections.
The subject of feeding back is one that interests a large number of bee-keepers in the comb-honey class, the main object, perhaps, being to prevent unfinished sections. At the same time much can be done toward preventing swarming as well, if the sections are removed from the colonies before they are capped and finished up after the danger of swarming is over by the feeding-back process, for it is well known that a great amount of capped honey in the hives is very conducive to swarming.
Many who attempt to feed back, fail on account of the many difficulties encountered. Mr. J. E. Hand, of Birmingham, Ohio, has made a complete study of this subject, and he finds that,while the work can be profitably done, much attention must be given to the details, since there are many things to take into consideration.
I'lle finds it more practicable to use a feeder in which the syrup can be given below the brood-chamber instead of on top, as this is the more natural way for the bees, and they take it more readily. The Quinby feeder has a tin tray,2 inches deep, enclosed by a wooden frame of the same depth, which is the same width as the hive,but 24 inches longer. The tin tray is exactly the same length as the hive, and when in use is pushed to the back end of the frame surrounding it, leaving a space of 24 inches in front for the bees to pass out and in the hive. The other end of the tin tray projects the 24 inches beyond the hive at the back to allow space for filling it. A framework of slats lengthwise of the feeder sits in the tray for the bees to travel over while working in the feeder so that they may not be drowned. The feeder rests square on the bottom-board, and the hive covers t.e feeder except the 24 inches at the back end, which space is covered by a little board. The bees can not get into the place where the feed is poured in, and the honey (about six quarts) flows evenly under all parts of the hive, where it can be quickly taken up by the bees.
Many fail in their attempt at feeding back for the reason that they do not select the right time of the year. It is best to begin right after the main honey-flow has ceased before the work in the supers is over. Atcomb fluency.
this time the bees naturally go right on as
though the flow had not stopped. It is best
to give about six quarts of thinned-down
honey to each colony every other day. The
interval between the feeding allows the bees
time to remove the honey, which is first
placed directly in the brood-cells, to the
supers. No definite rule can be given for thinning down the honey, since the density varies so much. For average honey enough
water must be added so that the syrup will
be 75 per cent honey and 25 per cent water.
Very thick honey needs more water, while thin honey needs less.
It is necessary to have the brood-chamber
well occupied by brood, for bees never do
well in supers over brood-chinnbers containing much capped honey. The first requisite,
then, is a good queen, which will be able to
hold her own against any amount of feeding.
The brood-chamber must be contracted,
furthermore, so that the queen will be able
to keep every comb filled with brood. In
this connection, the sectional hive is very convenient, for the reason that
ne section
may be removed, thus contracting the brood
and still allowing brood in the shallow frames to be under the entire super.
is quite important, however, to have the
combs in the brood-chamber as new as possible, for the bees are quite apt to
curry up
bits of the comb to be used in capping cells
in the supers, and old dark comb will dis-
color the super-cappings to quite an extent.
The thinned-down honey should be
to the feeler just before
snow, so that
there may be no uproar that may be likely to
cause robbing. It is not desirable to have
more than two supers of sections on the
feeding colonies at a time. As soon as the
sections in the super next the brood-chamber
are nearly capped, this super should be
raised up and the upper one placed under it
next to the brood-chamber. Then
sou as the top super is finished and capped solid
to the wood, it may be removed and an
empty super placed next the brood-chamber.
Of course it is not essential that combs be built outand capped solid to the wood. The
combs all capped over, except the cells next
to the wood, would grade No. 1.
wiaat to do with unfinished sections.
Some prefer to dispose of unfinished sections by selling them around home for less money, or using then exclusively for home consumption. The honey, for eating purposes, is practically just as good
and
it is the practice, in many bee-keepers' families,
to consume all such sections if they can,
reserving out those that are marketable and
well finished, to be sold.
Some bee-keepers consider then very valuable for baits; that is, they place one of
these in the center of a super to bait the bees
bees above, as has already been explained.
Others place them in stacked-ups's a few
rods from the apiary. A very small entrance
at the bottom of the pile, large enough for one
or two bees to pass at a time, is provided.
By this slow method of robbing, the bees
will empty out the honey and carry it to the
hives much more cheaply than the bee-keeper himself can afford
to do it by means
of the extractor. While this slow robbing
may cause a little disturbance in the yard
at the time, it does no particular harm. But
mark this: Never give the bees a wide entrance at the bottom. It should be only
wide enough to allow one or two bees to pass at a time.
This is known as the Miller
plan, having been, we believe, originated by
Dr. C. Miller. Taking every thing into
consideration it is the safer one to follow
; but where one is an expert bee-keeper, and
has a large lot of unfinished sections for the
bees to empty out, a plan originated by the
late B. Taylor is perhaps better. Dr. Miller,
who now uses the plan, thus speaks of it:
For a number of years I have used the Taylor plan
at the close of every season. All sections that are less
than half filled are put in supers in the shop cellar,
and the door kept closed till the whole business is
over, and _all_ that are to be emptied are in the cellar.
The supers stand out end so as to be all open, or piled
in piles crossing each other. When no more are to be
taken into the cellar I open the door, and say to the
bees, "Go in." They go in, I assure you. The air is
black with bees at the door, and they do more or less
sailing about in the vicinity. Sometimes they do a
tlearing of the sections, but not much. There is too
large a surface for them to cover. Gradually they give
up the job as the supply ceases, but the supers are not
taken away till a week or two after the bees have stopped working on them. They might as well be put in
the open air, only they are safe from rain in the cellar,
Please remember that this is what I do at the end of
every harvest after the flow has stopped.
As a matter of fact, I use the Taylor
the Miller plan. It depends on the number of sections
to be emptied in proportion to the number of bees.
Whether little or much is to be emptied, I am not
afraid of a rampage. I will set a super of sections on
top of a huge and tell the bees rob it out, and there will
be no rampage. But I will be exceedingly careful not
to take away the super until all the honey is cleaned
out, and until all leaf 24 hours after the bees after
_pedrying_ to find any more honey there. Take away
the super while the bees are at work at it, and whole-
sale destruction would follow.
How to pile up the superis of comb
honey in the Honey-House? After
Taking off the hives.
It is a very good practice, after the supers