BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
In the colder districts it will be necessary to prepare for wintering bee stock. If any hive is showing signs of dilapidation, it is better now to replace it with a new one than later on. Select a suitable day for the work. Place the new home in close proximity to the one in occupation. As each frame is removed carefully examine it for any signs of bee enemies and disease. Well scrape the outer edges of the frames to remove all accumulations of burr comb. When replacing the frames slightly increase the inter-space betweeen the brood combs; this will admit of more bees clustering between, and thus increase warmth. Where there are movable floor-boards, and they are always to be preferred to fixtures, cleanse them from all debris. Examine all crevices, both in floor-board and body of the hive. Place the supers in the storeroom. Invert the quilt--\(i.e.\), have the glaze side uppermost; the woolly side will aid in the absorption of moisture caused by condensation. All debris that has been removed should be collected together at once and burnt. The quantity of sealed honey in each hive should be calculated before the bees are put up for wintering. A pound of honey occupies about 16 square inches, more or less, according to its thickness. A fairly strong colony will require about 30 lb. to carry them through. The more honey is left for winter purposes the better will be the spring results. Do not leave any empty or nearly empty storage frames in the hive. The nearer the storage honey is placed to the brood the better. If bees and storage do not occupy the whole of the hive, put in the division or dummy board. Keep all within the hive as compact as possible. With the outside of the hive always anticipate a wet winter and prepare for it. Make the top of the hive waterproof. If old bagging or other absorbent materials are used, and for cold seasons such things are extremely useful, there must be something placed on the top to throw off the rain, otherwise the continued dampness will aid in rotting the hive. Free the surroundings from all weeds. Clear underneath the hives for ventilating purposes.
In the warmer districts, last month's calendar may still be followed.
### April.
Winter is close upon us. In the coldest of our districts bees have already retired to their winter quarters, and before the month is out the retirement will be general in the southern and mountain ous parts of the Colony. During the warmer portions of the days especially if the sun is bright, the bees will still venture out; but they will not wander far from home if last month's advice has been attended to, \(i.e.\), if they are supplied with honey sufficient to carry them on till spring or the coming breeding season. If bees are forced to go foraging on bright winter days, the sudden atmospheric changes prevent the return of many. A good supply of food in the live is the only remedy. It also forms one of the best methods to keep up the warmth of the hive. On every occasion when the weather is bright and drying remove the wraps, etc., from the hives, and spread them out to dry. External dampness produces internal dampness- which is one of the most prolific causes of disease. Just before sandown return the protectors to the hives.
The evenings are long now and outdoor work among the bees is little needed; there is, therefore, plenty of time in which hives, frames, &c., can be put together and foundation fixed ready for the coming spring.
**May.**
In our coldest districts both bees and bee-keepers should have retired into winter quarters. The latter will now have plenty of time for thought and preparation for the coming spring. The end of this month will be an excellent time for planting evergreen shrubs for the protection against the cold winds, or, if necessary, as shades against the excessive sun rays for summer time. The long leaf privet (_Legstrom longifolia_), which is used for ornamental hedges will be found the best for the purpose. A trench about 8 inches wide and a foot deep should be opened and the soil made light with the addition of a little sand and manure. In the coming month cuttings from 6 to 12 inches long should be planted at an angle of about 45 degrees, or even more, 6 inches apart, and arranged so that they may overlap one and the other. When sufficiently high they should be kept trimmed to a uniform width of about 8 inches and the length required. If properly managed they will form a green wall almost impenetrable. Such hedges will be found to be both useful and ornamental. Examine all empty conbs that are stored, and fumigate for moth and their larvae. Attend to ventilation to prevent dampness. Do not let the stored conbs become nildewed. Make up hives, supers, and frames for the coming season. It is a wise motto to have your cage ready for the bird, and so always have your hives ready for your bees.
**June.**
**This is the month to commence in earnest to establish live break-winds and sunshades. Plant them about 4 feet from the hives, so as to give yourself room to work, and also to take a wheelarrow or hand-cart, for these are sometimes very useful appliances in a bee farm. Last month I gave instructions for planting, and the best kind of plants for the purpose. As soon as the plants start into growth attend to the necessary. "As the twig is bent so does the tree grow" is an old proverb that is applicable to more than the vegetable kingdom.**
**Continue to make up hives and frames for the coming season. Fumigate all spare combs that are stowed away. Brush over all spare hives with a solution of carbonic acid, both inside and out; let it run well into the joints and angles. When the weather will permit see that the hives are free from dampness. In the colder districts of the Colony put on additional mats as protection against frost. Mats made of plaited straw are most impervious to cold. If snow is anticipated, cover these with a bit of zinc or tin, for when the thaw takes place they retain the dampness for a long while. If the hives have been painted, and they are always the better for it, the absorbative nature of the wood has been much mitigated, and aids greatly in keeping the inside of the hives dry. In some of the coldest parts of America the bees are housed during the winter, first seeing that they have sufficient stores to carry them through. This is not advisable here, nor even in our coldest parts. In the coldest latitudes of N.S.W. during winter we have frequently bitterly cold nights, but during midday the sun shines out warm and bright. Such days are always taken advantage of by bees for the purpose of flying out and discharging their faeces. The very exercise adds warmth on their return.**
**In all your work keep the idea of the coming spring constantly before you. The stocks that come out strongest and healthiest in the spring are the ones you will derive your profits from.**
**July.**
**Old Father Winter came in upon us at the close of last month in all his strength, and is likely to continue so for some weeks hence. Bee management during winter months differs little; therefore, what was said of last month is also fully applicable to this.
During the warmest part of the brightest days look into the hives, and see if it be necessary to contract the hives with division boards.
Look at the under side of the top of the hives, and note if there be any dampness; find its cause, and cure it. Turn the fluffy side of the quilt down, and overlay with a few layers of newspaper. The fluffy side of the quilt will somewhat absorb the moisture caused by condensation within, and the paper will be an additional protection against the cold and wet from without.
### August.
Northwards already there are indications of returning spring, if in a climate where everlasting spring abides it does not appear superfluous to make such a statement. Even here, down south, leaf-buds are developing and blossom-buds are bursting. Pollen is coming in from some of the earliest of blossoming fruit-trees and some of the acacias that are in the more sheltered gullies. Flower gardens are aglow with spring flowers.
On fine days overhaul all hives so as to note what conditions they are in as regards food. If food supply be short, feed as previously advised. Developing brood must be well supplied with both honey and pollen. If there is likely to be a shortage in the latter, supply it artificially; pea meal is a good, perhaps the best, substitute that can be used. If your hives have loose bottom boards, and they are always the best to use, see that they are free from impurities and foreign matter. If the colony has dwindled much, put in a division board. Remove all empty and mouldy combs. See that there are no queenless colonies. If one be found, obtain a queen from a dealer as soon as possible. This paragraph only applies to our warmer districts. On the north and southern tablelands, continue the advice given for July.
It is very possible that on the alighting boards and in front of the hives many dead bees will be seen. Most of these have died from old age. Bees, as a rule, live longer during the winter months than summer. If you have any doubt in your mind as to the cause of death, send along some of the dead, accompanied with some of the symptoms exhibited prior to death.
The Department of Agriculture will at all times gladly give advice as to bee enemies and bee diseases.
## September.
In view of the range of climate of the Colony, what may be applicable to apiculture in one district may be quite out of season in another. It is therefore hoped that readers will understand that the advice given is general,
It is scarcely necessary to remind bee-keepers that the first consideration should be to keep the stocks strong. This matter should have been seen to during the final extraction of honey last season. During the winter months, damp and mildew within the hive, cracks and cold draughts, enemies that have been overlooked when the bees were put up for the winter, and many other causes, may have weakened the stocks. During the middle of the warmest days in winter, and more especially as spring advances, dead bees may be seen on the alighting-board, and mortality is due chiefly, but not wholly, to the causes named. If it were possible to keep a record of vital statistics of bees, old age and starvation would show the highest score on the death-roll.
Along the coast districts spring foliage is now becoming plentiful, and increasing in quantity as we go northwards. On the higher tablelands, especially southward, frosts and snow, still prevailing, will retard the spring operations considerably. In our warmer districts there will be more or less young brood in the hives, if the queens are up to the required standard; but not so in colder districts, where, outside the hives, deaths will be more numerous, and the stocks will be correspondingly weaker.
If forage be scarce the bees should be sparingly fed, so as to stimulate the early rearing of brood. Pure honey is by far the best and most easily procurable. But with pollen it is another thing. For this necessary article of bee-diet bees do not confine themselves wholly to the dust of flowers. In the cold district of Monaro I have known them to revel in horse-feed composed of a mixture of bran left in the feed-box, and go home laden therewith. This, to my mind, was evidence that there was plenty of honey in the hive, but a scarcity of pollen wherewith to prepare bece-bread for the coming brood.
There are many artificial substitutes for pollen--rice-flour, oatmeal, and pea-flour are amongst the best of them. There is not the slightest danger to the bees in giving them a fairly good supply of these during warm bright days. Place it in easy access. It must be taken indoors before sundown every day, and not put out in the morning till all dampness is gone. At no time shouldartificial pollen be permitted to become damp; it is sure to become mildewed. In that condition bees will refuse it, and if used it will produce dysentery. Trencle must not be used as a substitute for honey, nor wheat-flour for pollen. They act as a purgative, and thereby weaken the young brood.
### October.
Nearly the whole of last month drones were on the wing, and, as anticipated, queen-cells were in construction. Indeed, in the metropolitan district, during the latter part of August, my own were hatched, and on the 16th of last month my first spring swarm came out. From the stock they issued, neither in 1895 or 1896, did I get an increase. It was one of those ne'er do wells. Twice I had changed the queens, but nothing good followed. Early in last December I placed in it a strong swarm that half an hour before had issued from a neighbouring colony. There was no fighting; I had killed the queen of the weak colony. With new blood it became one of my best, resulting in giving me my first swarm this season. In the beginning of last month I noticed several small patches of drone blood. As there are numbers of drones on the wing, and swarming has begun here, it should be abundant further north. Speaking of drones, if what I have so often advocated, _i.e.,_ old queens that were known by their fruits to have been very prolific and their progeny good workers, have been kept over from last season as drone breeders, the mating of young queens with high class drones will be sure to give the best results.
During last month the summer fruit-trees were aglow with bloom, and pollen stores were plentiful. Before this number of the _Gaiette_ is in circulation, swarming will be in full swing. If it is the ''early bird that gets the first worm,'' undoubtedly it is the early swarm that gives most profit. The bee-keepers in the old country used to say, ''A swarm of bees in May is worth a load of hay; one in June is not much out of tune; but one in July is never worth a single fly.'' The same rule holds good here, in the corresponding months.
Be careful to see that room in the brood chamber is provided for giving the queen sufficient unoccupied space for laying purposes otherwise she will use the empty cells in the supers.
There will not be much trouble in catching the _first_ swarms of the season. It is the fertile queen that leaves with them; she cannot fly far; she is heavy with eggs, and will not proceed a hundred yards if she can help it from home. As soon as it is noticed that the swarm is issuing from the hive, watch the entrance, and pick up the queen as soon as she is outside. If you fail to find her, look for her in the flying swarm; a pregnant queen never flies very high. If caught place her in a queen cage, and hang her up in a convenient place. As soon as the swarm commences to cluster around her shake a handful or two into a box and liberate her amongst them; it saves a lot of trouble.
If it is intended to re-queen, do not be later than this month. Procure laying and tested queens; it saves a lot of, time. He sure to get them from a healthy apiary. It is a safe rule, whatever goes wrong with your bees, to say it is the queen's fault. Of course there are exceptions.
The principal work in apiaries now is attending to swarming, re-queening where necessary, and queen-raising.
### November.
The most necessary traits in the character of all bee-keepers to ensure success are kindness and gentleness, and these powers will require full exercise this month. Physically a bee-keeper requires a pair of good eyes that have been trained to keen observation, and a pair of sensitive ears that are quick to detect the various changes in the sounds that are emitted by bees. They readily inform us of their likes and dislikes. They have a language that is easily translated by bee-keepers of experience, who act according to the requirements indicated. "Watch and listen" is a motto to be kept constantly in view by all engaged in the bee industry.
This month "'from the centre all around to the sea,' bees will seize every favourable day to swarm if so prepared. Spring food has been fairly abundant all over the Colony so far, and the prospects for a large honey flow are very encouraging. Act upon the principle of strong swarms and quick returns. Where it is not desirable to increase the apiary, check all swarming. There are several ways of so doing. Examining the frames of brood about every fourteen days, and removing all queen cells is one of the best. If the swarms come out, kill one of the queens; of course, keep the best. Search the hive the swarm issued from, and compare the queen left behind with the one on the wing. The former may not have emerged from the cell, or she may not have mated, and in other ways may not be a "tested queen." On the other hand the one on the wing may possess all good qualities; but, if it be the first swarm of the season it will be an old queen, at the least a last season's one, and if her age be not known she should be superseded by a young tested one. I am presuming there are are a few tested queens kept in stock at this season of year. As soon as the swarm has alighted shake them in the usual way, and when they have fairly settled, place them close to the parent hive. Having selected your queen, return the swarm from whence it came, and next morning the combined swarm will set to work equal to a virgin colony. If you wish to make any alteration in the position of your hives, now is your chance. Having put in the new swarm successfully, remove the parent hive to the new position required. On the following day, when the united bees issue to work, not 1 per cent, will return to the former position. The old stock, with the swarm, should be removed to the new position on the evening of the same day the swarm issued forth.
See that there is plenty of room in the brood-chamber for increase. Don't let new swarms hang out in the sun. When hived see that they are well shaded. Give plenty of ventilation. There will be honey to extract. As far as possible keep the various flavoured honey separate; it will make a deal of difference in the commercial returns.
### 11 December.
In some parts of the Colony, where summer is well advanced, the bee-keeper's harvest has fairly begun. On the Northern Rivers it was later than usual, but indications bid fair for a good honey yield. In the warmer districts swarming should now be checked and stocks kept as strong as possible, if honey be the object; if increase of stocks is still needed, of course, go on swarming. In these districts swarms and casts will continue up to the near approach if winter; these should be returned to the parent hive. Where honey is coming in abundantly, extracting should be carried on whenever about three-fourths of the frames are sealed, even the two outer frames from the brood chamber may be extracted in the early season, but don't be too avaricious, especially towards the end of the honey flow. There is nothing to be gained by it; the bees may want the honey, and it will keep in the cells as well as in bottles, and labour of extracting it and then returning it to the hive is done away with. It never pays to extract from the brood chamber except when the honey flow is very good.
In unapping for the purpose of extracting, hold the frames so that the cappings will fall clear of the comb below the knife. Cut downwards, and take a long-drawn cut; let the action of the knife be towards the operator. By no means saw the cappings off. In putting the frames in the extractor, place them so that the bottom bar of the frame leads in the rotary motion of the machine; in so doing, the honey leaves the cells much more freely than if put in the reverse of that advised. Don't extract too much unsealed comb, otherwise the honey will have a tendency to ferment. Honey in bulk should occupy a warm position, for the purpose of evaporation; this will cause the honey to ripen and give it a greater density. Have water in easy access of your bees. The nearer it is to the apiary the better, as it will save the bee a lot of trips to and fro. Bees are fond of brackish water; it aids in keeping them in health. Put some in tins in easy reach. Of course, a little salt added to fresh water will do it. Place some chips in it for the bees to alight on. Go in for queen rearing, or purchase from a dealer of good repute for healthy bees, for all useless and degenerating queens should be superseded. Remember like produces like, and good healthy queens produce good healthy progeny.
The chronological accuracy of these calendars is only relatively correct, seeing the very extensive climatic ranges existing in the States of Australia, almost from tropic to fridigid. The climate of the extreme month whencompared with that of the extreme south is greatly diversified; so with the mountain ranges; the arid plains when contrasted with the humid coastal districts. Therefore amatcur beekeepers having had little or no experience must be guided by the give-and-take principle. The work with bees slides from one month to another almost imperceptibly. Thus his work must be largely regulated by the climatic changes taking place in his own district.
# Bee Culture
I. The Use of Comb-foundation.
II. Ripening Extracted Honey.
III. Foul Brood.
IV. The Large Bee-moth.
V. Apiculture in relation to Agriculture.
By ISAAC HOPKINS, BEB Expert.
ILLUSTRATED.
HON. T. Y. Duncan, Minister for Agriculture.
WELLINGTON.
BY AUTHORITY: JOHN MACKAY, GOVERNMENT PRINTER.
NOTE.
Department of Agriculture,
Divisions of Biology, Horticulture, and Publications,
H.M. Customs Building,
Wellington, 27th May, 1905.
The necessity for the appointment of a Bee Expert has been urged in my reports from year to year. It was therefore with great pleasure I received intimation of the engagement of Mr. Isaac Hopkins as Apiarian.
The attached articles are the first from his pen as Government. Bee Expert. They will prove of great interest and also instructive to beekeepers.
The illustrations of comb are from original photographs, taken specially for Mr. Hopkins.
T. W. KIRK.
BULETIN No. 5.
B E E - C U L T U R E.
I. ON THE USE OF COMB-FOUNDATION.
So far as I have yet been among our beekeepers, I have found, with few exceptions, almost a total absence of knowledge concerning the full economic value of comb-foundation. Its use at the present time is chiefly confined to providing " guide-combs," which consist of narrow strips fastened along the under-sides of the top bars of the movable frames of the hive, to insure the bees building their combs within the frames. The bees are thus left free to construct nearly the whole of their combs, of whatever kind they may choose, worker or drone, or, as is usual, some of both.
The success of modern bee-culture hinges almost entirely in the first place on securing complete control over the breeding, and this can only be obtained by compelling the bees to build what-ever kind of comb is desired. Under natural conditions, or when in hives and allowed freedom to construct their combs, they invariably build a goodly proportion of drone - comb, which is subsequently utilised for breeding drones. This accounts for the large number of drones to be seen in box hives, or where no-attempt has been made to control breeding. Drones, as most people are aware, are non-producers--that is to say, they do not gather honey, or even do any work in the hives. They are physically incapable, but they consume a large quantity of food gathered by the workers, and where many are present the yield of honey from that hive, and consequently the profit, will be considerably curtailed. The breeding of drones, therefore, when honey is the chief object should be restricted as much as possible, and this can only be accomplished successfully with a minimum of trouble by making the fullest use of worker-comb foundation.*
Footnote *: A sufficient number of drone-cells will always be built round the ends and bottoms of the sheets of foundation.
The difference between worker and drone comb is in the size of the cells, the former measuring slightly over five to the inch, and the latter a little over four. The proportions are shown it.