BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
The friction-top pair offers a very easy method of feeding. The lid is pierced full of holes made with three-penny nails or in some cases by machinery. In case one lacks a friction-top pair, a Mason fruit jar with pierced lid or with cheese-eloth tied over the top will do very nicely, although it will need repeated filling until the required amount is given. These feeders are filled with syrup made of two parts of sugar to one of water, heated or boiled till all grain has disappeared. The syrup may be used even thicker than this, late in the season; for late in the fall the bees become rather sluggish and if given syrup too thin may not evaporate it sufficiently. In cold weather the syrup should be thick and warm when fed.
When the syrup is ready to be fed, an empty deep super should be placed over the brood-chamber, the pair of warm syrup inverted directly over the tops of the frames, and the pair and the top of the brood-chamber warmly covered with a piece of canvas or burlap to retain the heat so that the syrup will be taken readily by the bees. The inside and the outside covers should, of course, be placed over the super. Strong colonies will sometimes take the contents of one of these ten-pound pails in a day. If a colony is unusually slow in taking the syrup, the process may be hurried by rewarming the syrup.
**Various Ways of Wintering.**
In the North bees may be wintered in the cellar or outdoors. In localities where the average winter temperature is below 25 degrees F., and where snow continuously covers the ground for several months, beekeepers who have good stores and dry, well-ventilated cellars that may be made dark and left at an even temperature somewhere between 45 and 50 degrees F., may winter inside to advantage. Those wintering outdoors in the North will need either double-walled hives or else suitable packing-cases for their single-walled hives. And even in the southern states some packing is a decided advantage, leaving the colonies in a much stronger condition in the spring. This lighter protection may be in the form of light packing-cases, but even wrappings of paper will be quite worth while. Any protection against wind is a help.
**Wintering Outdoors.**
In cold climates it is necessary that colonies wintered outdoors have plenty of 'packing in order to retain the heat; for, when the temperature inside the hive falls below 57 degrees F., the bees are obliged to generate heat by their own activity, which activity compels the use of a greater amount of stores and also an accumulation of feces within the bees. This often brings about dysentery and death, especially when the stores are not of the best quality. Even in those cases in which dysentery does not result, the individual bees of the colony are so worn out by their efforts to keep up the temperature of the hive that in the spring these old hees die more rapidly than they can be replaced by the young emerging bees, and thus the onditi on called "spring dwindl in g" gradually diminishes the colony, often rendering it worthless.
**Necessity of Windbreaks.**
When preparing for winter a good natural windbreak 10 to 15 feet high should without fail be on the most exposed sides of the apiary 101ward, striking the hives a short distance from the fence, but when there are large cracks in the fence the wind sifts through and its force is sufficiently broken.
### Wintering in Double-Walled Hives.
Among the different ways of wintering outdoors, the beginner will find the double-walled hive the easiest and most satisfactory if he takes the precaution to contract his brood-chamber by removing two or three frames (the number depending upon the size of the colony), crowding over the combs to the side of the hive least exposed to the prevailing winter wind, and at the side of the frames placing a tight-fitting division-board and then filling the space left vacant, by the removal of the frames, with ehalf or tightly packed dry forest leaves or soft planer shavings. If the colony has not enough stores for winter it should next be fed enough to make np the required amount. (See page 98 on "Needed Amount of Stores.")
It will be noticed that at the center of the two or three middle combs there is a little circle of empty cells which constitutes the winter nest, or place where the bees cluster. When the bees are clustering in and over these empty cells the colony has more or less the form of a sphere or a ball, but divided by the several combs extending through the ball. This ball is much warmer and more compact than could possibly be the case if cold slabs of honey intervened between the parts of the cluster, instead of the thin cell walls and midrib of the eomb. The ball-like cluster of bees gradually eats its way upward and backward as the winter advances. When making the contraction this winter nest should not be disturbed nor the relative position of these central coubs changed.
Although this is a very safe way of wintering, it necessitates opening the hives in the spring to give more room and possibly more stores before the honey flow. Therefore, if there is any chance that the colonies may be neglected during the spring, it would be better not to contract the brood-chamber, but to leave it with its ten frames.
The tops of the frames may well be covered with a mat of very heavy cloth or carpet (especially in the North), cut to the size of the inner cover or slightly larger. Be sure to have this mat of material as heavy as the heaviest canvas, and it may be well to cover it with newspaper to prevent an upward draft. The object of this porous top covering is to permit slow absorption of moisture without creating an upward draft that would carry away the heat. This mat should be held up from the frames by a few small sticks placed crosswise of the frames in order to provide the bees with passageways from one frame to another. (If the hive were sufficiently packed and protected to prevent all condensation within, upward ventilation would not be necessary, and a sealed cover could be used.)
A tray four or five inches deep, slightly smaller than the telescope cover and filled with well-packed forest leaves or planer shavings, should be placed above the mat at the top of the hive to retain the beat of the colony. The hurlap attached to the bottom of the tray should be left haggy, and secured to the sides of the tray by wooden strips nailed on the lower inside edges. This allows the tray to fit tight to the top of the hive, and prevents the wind from blowing under the tray.
The outside telescoping cover is placed directly over the tray.
The hive should be left facing away from the prevailing winds,with an entrance % inch by two or three inches. No matter how cold, the entrance should never be closed, as ventilation is needed as well as occasional cleansing flights when the weather will permit.
The hive-stands for these double-walled hives should have a firm foundation closed up all around to prevent wind from blowing beneath them, and given a slightly viewable winter packing-case for a single hive.
forward tilt so that the inside of the hives may keep dry. During winter, and until May in the northern states, the best care one can give his bees is to leave them quite undisturbed, only taking heed that the entrances do not get elogged tight- shut with ice during winter sleet storms. A covering of snow over the hive entrance, however, does no harm.
Wintering in Packing-Cases.
Those who may have their colonies in single-walled hives and wish to winter outdoors will need to provide good packing-cases.
The single-walled hive entire is placed in its packing-case, which may be a common shipping errate or box of dimensions such that about six inches of packing of leaves or shavings may be placed around the tops, sides and bottoms of the hives. A passageway the width of the hive and two inches deep is provided from the hive entrance through the packing to the entrance of the packing-case, this outer entrance being contracted to an opening % by two or three inches. This passageway through the packing is provided both for ventilation and also to give the bees a change to leave the hive and take a cleansing flight on warm days that may occasionally occur. For a cover to such a packing-case, tin, tarred paper, a tight wood-en cover, or other waterproof cover should be used in order that the packing may keep perfectly dry.
These cases are usually made of such a size as to accommodate from one to four colonies.
The quadruple packing-case is strongly advocated by bee authorities of the United States Department of Agriculture. Farmers' Bulletin No. 1012gives details of how to build and use it. When several colonies are to occupy the same case they should be moved gradually each day until the spot where the packing-case is to be located is reached. Otherwise, many bees will go back to their old locations and be lost. Many avoid all danger of such loss by keeping the colonies during the summer on the same stands and in the same relative positions they will oceupy during the winter. The packing-cases should be put on early in the fall and left until late in spring or until warm-weather, so that all chilling of brood may be avoided.
**Wintering with Tarred Paper Tied On.**
The first cost of winter cases need not stand in the way of good wintering, for bees can he well protected for only a few eents per colony for cost of material, by using a cheap grade of tarred paper to hold the packing in place and keep it dry.
To pack a single colony in a regular 10-frame hive, cut two pieces %x 2 x 20% inches, two pieces %x 2 x 24 inches, two pieces 140 inches long and two pieces 24 inches long. From a roll of 36-inch single ply slaters' felt, eut one piece 8 feet long and another 3% feet long.
Make a rim of the 2-inch pieces which fits around the lower part of the hive, by lapping over the corners and fastening with a single nail. The piece in front should rest on the side rails of the floor, leaving the entrance open. The two side pieces should come below the end piece in front, and above the end piece at the back, thus dropping the rim %in hech lower on the sides than in front, and % inch lower at the back than on the sides. A small nail driven part way into the back end of the floor supports the rim at the back.
Stand the 8-foot strip of paper on edge around the hive and tack on the lath to fasten the paper to the rim, using two nails in each lath driven only part way home. The paper should touch the ground all around the hive, the entrance now being covered with the paper. Cut a hole %x 2 inches through the paper for an entrance. This hole can easily be enlarged next spring when a larger entrance will be needed. Where the ends overlap, pin the paper together with two or three wire nails.
The packing material should be packed down in the corners to make them stand out square, after which the packing is simply poured in at the sides and ends without pressing down. Thisis to prevent bulging out the sides. From three to six inches of packing can be put in at the sides and ends by permitting a slight bulging of the paper beyond the rim at the bottom, or a greater amount can be put in if some slack is left in the paper at the lower corners when the lath are nailed on. Fill in with 8 to 10 inches on top, then fold down the upper edges of the paper as in wrapping a package.
Create the 4-foot piece of paper, which is to be used for the cover, by folding over the edges before putting it in place. After it is in place fold the corners neatly, as in wrapping a package; then tie a cord around the folded-down edges to hold them snug against the sides.
The a cord to one of the_projecting nails in one of the side lath, pass it across the top of the hive under both nails on the opposite side, then back to the other nail on the first side, where it is fastened.
Hives can be packed in pairs with but little more material and labor for the two than for a single hive. For two colonies the 2-inch pieces for the front and back of the rim should be 36% inches long, and the lath for the front and back should be 36% inches long. The paper to form the sides should be cut about 10% feet long, and for the cover about 4% feet long.
Wintering in Cellar.
If one lives where the average winter temperature is below 25 degrees F. and if he has good stores and a good, well-ventilated cellar that can be kept quiet and completely dark and at an even temperature between 45 and 50 degrees, he can probably winter safely in the cellar, and this is what he should do in case be has single-walled hives. Cellars suitable for keeping vegetables are usually quite satisfactory for wintering bees. A cellar whose temperature varies markedly with outside temperatures is unfit for cellar wintering. Oftentimes colonies short of stores or too weak to winter outdoors will winter safely in a good cellar.
Ten eubie feet of space is sufficient for each colony. The entrance blocks should be removed, and, if any mice are in the cellar, the entrances should be covered with a coarse %-inch mesh sereen. This will allow the bees to pass through, but will shut out the mice. In cellars where the temperature remains as low as 45 degrees, the entrances may be reduced to openings % by two inches, stronger colonies being given larger entrances. If the bees become uneasy during the winter, it is likely that the temperature or ventilation of the cellar needs regulation. Bees should be put in the cellar immediately after (what is probably) the last good flight--usually in November in the northern part of the United States--and taken out the latter part of March or the first of April, at a time when the first natural pollen may be gathered, when it is warm enough so that they may have frequent flights. If put out when the weather is still rather cool, some protection, such as tarred paper wrapping, should be given the colonies. See pages 105 and 106.
be left on the hives till settled warm weather has arrived. There is more danger of removing it too early than too late, for in most parts of the country (excepting the far South) "cold spells" and ehilly nights are experienced even after the season of fruit bloom, and this temporary cold, if the winter protection has been removed, may ehill and kill some brood, thus weakening the colony. If there comes an unseasonably warm "spell" in the spring--really hot--the entrance of _strong_ colonies may be opened to summer size. This should not be done, however, if the nights are cool enough to chill the brood. The winter protection and the contracted entrances are not to be dispensed with until the time of settled warm weather. Many beekeepers make it a practice to leave the ehaff tray on the double-walled hive all summer to protect the supers from undue heat or ehill.
If, preenhance, the beginner has secured his first bees in single-walled hives and so has had to put them in some sort of winter cases, with a packing of leaves or shavings or ehaff about the hives inside these cases, be should not set the bees out of these winter cases till just before the honey flow or until it is necessary to give more room. If the colonies went into winter quarters strong and with plenty of good stores, be need not even examine them until he unpacks them. But if the colonies were of doubtful strength in the fall or bad a doubtful amount or doubtful quality of food stores when going into winter quarters in the fall, the beginner will need to examine them during the first warm weather of the spring. In doing this, he should remove the packing only temporarily and replace it when he has given the bees what attention is needed--generally a feeding of sugar candy or sealed combs of honey..
If the bees be wintered in the eellar, the rule is to wait until the first natural pollen is abundant before setting them out from their winter quarters. If the bees become quite uneasy in the eellar it will be necessary to set them out early; but, as a general thing, there is more danger of setting them out too early than too late--both because of the cold and the lack of pollen and nectar supplies. Usually the best time for putting the bees out is the latter part of Mareh or the first of April in the North where eellar wintering is practiced. But when a pollen supply seems assured and the season of prolonged cool spells is past, wait for a warm, sunshiny. day, and then, within this one day, remove all the bees from the eellar and place them on their permanent summer stands. When the bees are first removed there will be little or no brood in the hive and therefore the cold will do no injury to the colony; but, after they have been out long enough to have considerable brood, a cold spell may prove very serious and much of the brood be ehilled. This trouble may be avoided by paper-packing the hive, as described on page 105. This packing costs but little and can easily be adjusted in a few minutes. When one considers the saving in bees and brood, he will realize that he cannot afford to dispense with this protection when setting his bees out of the eellar.
**Regulation of the Entrances.**
A first inspection of the colonies in the spring will serve to discover any colonies that may be dead and those that are weak.
If any are found that are dead, at once close tight the entrances.
Otherwise, on the first warm day that the bees of the live colonies may be flying and seeking nectar, they will enter the hives of the dead colonies and begin robbing out any honey that may be found in the combs there. An uproar in the whole apiary will result; and not only will the hives of the dead colonies be robbed, but quite likely the weaker colonies of the apiary will also be set upon by the robbery-mad bees of the strong colonies, and, unless prevented, will entirely destroy them. Such robbing, if permitted, is one of the surest ways of spreading any fool brood that may be lurking in one's own apiary or in that of a neighboring apiary.
Besides closing the entrances of the hives of the dead colonies, if there be such, contract the entrances of the weak colonies. This is done to protect them against possible robbing of their stores by the bees of stronger colonies. How much shall the entrances be contracted? If the colony has been reduced in strength to two or three frames of bees, contract to 3% x 3% of an inch, so long as danger of robbing continues. But just as soon as the bees begin gathering pollen or nectar, and warm weather prevails, the danger of robbing will pass, and the entrance may be enlarged to suit the needs of the bees.
When the Hive May Be Safely Opened.
The hives should not be opened except during a warm day (not less than 60 degrees Fahrenheit) when the bees can fly. If opened on a ehilly day, not only will the bees be found to be cross, but there will be danger of chilling the brood and perhaps getting the queen balled. The middle of the day (when warmest) should be selected as the time for toking into the hive.
Here is another weak colony. the entrance of whose hive should be contracted in the early spring.
### Cleaning the Hives.
The entrances of all live colonies should be cleared of dead bees (if, unfortunately, there be such) by means of a wire hook. This wire should be long enough to reach clear under the frames, so that all the dead bees on the floor of the hive may be raked out. Later, when settled warm weather prevails, and the bees are flying freely, it may be well to open the hives of any weak colonies, take out all the frames and thoroughly clean the hive of dead bees, taking care to do this on a warm day when the brood will not be chilled. This will not be necessary in the case of strong colonies, because the bees themselves of such strong colonies carry out all the dead. In case an excess of propolisis be found on the frames, it should be scraped off. In warm regions this cleaning of the hive needs to be repeated frequently. This cleaning, or so-called "overhauling the hive," makes it easier to handle the frames and to control the wax moth.
### If Dysentery Be Present.
The earliest examination of the colonies may reveal the presence of dysentery. The signs are numerous dark-brown or black spots spattered about the entrance. The cause of dysentery is generally a poor food supply, such as honeydew, combined with long, unbroken confinement to the hive by severe cold weather. About the only remedy is settled warm weather, permitting the bees to fly freely; but it is well to contract the brood-nest to as few frames as will accommodate the cluster.
### Stores Necessary in Spring.
One of the most important objects in opening the hive in the spring is to ascertain whether there are sufficient stores to carry the bees through to the time when they can gather their own food (pollen and nectar) in the fields. The bees should always have an abundance of food of good quality. By an abundance is meant at least two or three frames of good sealed honey in the hive all the time. Enough of good honey, of course, should have been left in the hive the fall before to carry the bees through the spring. But, for one reason or another, colonies often go into winter quarters short of stores, and the result is danger of starving if not given food in the spring before the bees can begin gathering nectar.
An abundance of stores for the excessive brood-rearing of spring is one of the most important factors in securing a honey crop; for, if the stores fall short, the bees will at once reduce brood-rearing, thus preventing the colony from developing to full strength by the time of the main honey flow.
### Giving Sealed Stores.
Suppose, upon opening the hive in the spring, the colony is found to be short of stores. Then sugar syrup or bee candy must be supplied the bees, if there are no frames of sealed honey that can be given. Many goodbeekepers lay aside plenty of nice combs of honey for just this purpose of spring feeding. Laeking such stores, there may possibly be a colony that has been winter-killed, from which one or more combs of stores can be taken. But if no honey in the comb is available, sugar feed has to be resorted to. The colony should be kept supplied with plenty of stores up to the time the honey flow starts. During spring-breeding great quantities of stores are needed. Full colonies sometimes use more than ten pounds of stores a week. It is the stores in excess of their actual needs that stimulate the bees to increased brood-rearing.
Feeding Candy, Not Syrup, in Early Spring.
Feeding of sugar syrup in the spring, before the bees begin to fly freely at least every few days, is always attended with more or less danger, for syrup feeding at any time starts the bees to flying out at the entrance. Then, if the weather chances to be cold (or chilly), many bees are lost by becoming ehilled in their flight and never return to their hive. Hard candy made of pure granulated sugar is the proper makeshift food to supply the shortage of natural honey stores, during cold weather of early spring. When the weather turns warmer, syrup feeding is preferable. (See page 100.) This hard candy can be purchased (ordinarily) of beekeeper-supply houses; or, if one prefers, he can make it himself by using considerable care. The recipe for making it is as follows: