BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
Fill it with warm syrup, and then tie tightly over the mouth one or two thicknesses of muslin or canvas. Now a caution must be given. Very frequently the syrup is found to run from the bottle into the hive, and thence out of the entrance to the ground. If the syrup is of the proper consistency this leakage results from slowly turning over the full bottle, and allowing the air to reach the top of the bottle above the syrup where there should be a vacuum. To avoid this loss and incentive to robbing, place a piece of paper over the mouth above the canvas when the bottle is ready for inverting. If, then, the hand is pressed tightly upon the paper, while the bottle is quickly inverted no syrup will escape. The bottle must then be placed upon the glass, which then withdraw. When the bottle requires refilling it must be slightly raised while the glass is pushed underneath, so as to prevent the escape of bees.
Sugar-Feeding.
The preparation and giving of syrup every three or four days entails a certain amount of trouble ; but this may be considerably reduced, without diminishing the benefit of feeding, by adopting sugar-feeding. The most suitable sugar for this purpose is _Porto Rico_, a fine-grained, pure cane, moist sugar.
To feed stocks in skeps, fill a basin or jar with the sugar, press it down, and then place upon it a thin piece of wood, in the centre of which two or three holes have been made with an auger or a red-hot poker. Next invert the basin, and set the wood so that the holes are just above the feed-hole. The wood should be set level upon a ring of paste or mortar. The moisture arising from the cluster will pass through the holes in the wood and be absorbed by the sugar, which, being converted slowly into syrup, will afford the bees the gradual but continuous supply of food they need.
In the place of a basin or jar, a box 5 inches by 4 inches, inside measurement, and 4\(\frac{3}{4}\) inches deep, may be used. The hole in the bottom should be 3 inches by 1\(\frac{1}{2}\) inch, running towards two grooves 1\(\frac{1}{2}\) inch apart, 1\(\frac{1}{2}\) inch wide, and 1\(\frac{1}{2}\) inch deep, cut in the middle of the 5-inch sides. Into the grooves slide two pieces of an old section, pushing them down to within 1\(\frac{1}{2}\) inch of the bottom. There will then be left a space of 1\(\frac{1}{2}\) inch above. Into the compartments thus cut off from the hole in the centre of the bottom, the Porto Rico sugar must be placed. The moisture arising from the brood nest will have access to the sugar above and below the section slides. The cover to the box may be a sheet of glass, which will act as a condenser of the moisture ; but a piece of cloth should be placed upon it to keep the feeder dark.
A simpler box, made 4 inches square and 4 inches deep, might be used in the following manner. In the bottom make a square or circular hole 1\(\frac{1}{2}\) inches across, and over that place a false bottom kept by nails or any other contrivance 3\(\frac{1}{2}\) inch from the bottom and the same from the sides. When the sugar is put into the feeder the bees will have access to it all round the false bottom, which will be 3\(\frac{1}{2}\) inches square.
The above sugar-feeders may be used on any hive, but a dummy feeder will be found of great service for use in a movable-comb hive.
Dummy Feeder.
As originally devised by Mr. Simmins, the feeder is faulty, inasmuch as the syrup, formed by the sugar absorbing the moisture that enters at the top, falls to the bottom, thus making a sticky mess on the floorboard, unless the dummy is made \(\ddagger\) or \(\ddagger\) inch short of the bottom. An excellent pattern (Fig. 32), first illustrated in the \(British\)_Bee Journal_, by Mr. T. B. Blow on his return from a tour among beekeepers in the East, is the only style that ought to be used. The parallel openings in the side turned towards the bees, expose the sugar to the influence of the
moist atmosphere, and allow the bees to feed at the top or bottom, or wherever syrup is being formed.
## Rapid Feeders.
The feeders hitherto described have been for use chiefly when food was required for stimulating the queen to brood-rearing, but when an examination of each colony is made in the middle of September, there may be found a satisfactory state of things from every point of view but one, viz., an insufficient supply of food to carry the stock through the winter. Whatever quantity of food is then required should be given in the form of syrup containing six pounds (3 for spring food) of sugar to the quart of water. The amount of syrup required may be given in one or two doses warm at night, in a rapid feeder of the Canadian pattern (Fig. 33). By morning a strong stock will have emptied the feeder and stored the food in the combs below. At this time, supposing the stock to contain a good population, sufficient heat would be generated to evaporate.
Fig. 34.
The superfluous moisture contained in the syrup, and then it would be sealed over for future use.
If syrup is given later in the season the bees may be thin in numbers and the weather cold, and then it will be impossible for them to ripen it and seal it over.
## Chapter 1. _Commencing Bee-Keeping_.
To many would-be bee-keepers the cost of starting acts as a deterrent, often, it may be, because they hear of the great outlay of some bee-keepers who have not made their venture pay. For the guidance of beginners I will give a list of the necessary appliances for properly commencing on the three systems described in this Guide, and the cost of each article. The price given must in each case be taken as approximate, for prices vary according to the quality and workmanship of the articles in question.
No hive should be considered complete without at least two supers ; it is, therefore, wise to procure at starting whatever is likely to be required for properly working each stock. At the same time I strongly advise all who commence bee-keeping to " make haste slowly," and only add to their apiary as they become more expert in the management of the bees, and feel that they can with equal success look after a greater number of hives.
The Sleep System.
On this system the outfit per stock will be asfollows, at the lowest estimate : brood-chamber, 1s. 6d. ; 2 supers, 1s. 3d. each ; floor-board, 1s. 3d. ; pan for cover, 1s. 3d. ; swarm, 10s. 6d. Total cost, 17s. The cost of a swarm will depend upon whether it can be purchased from a neighbour or a dealer some distance away. In the former case a good ordinary swarm may be obtained for the price named ; but if supplied by a dealer, who guarantees a young queen and a certain weight of bees, the price will be about 3s. 6d. per lb. It is then good policy to proecure a 4-lb. swarm. The extra cost and carriage will require adding to the estimate above.
The "Ivo " Bar-Hive.
The cost of any hive, as of other articles, depends very materially upon the demand for it. Now, by the increased demand for this hive it is made by machinery instead of by hand, and the cost has been greatly reduced. Those who can use tools will find the hive simple in construction, and therefore easily copied. The floor-board costing 1s. 4d. ; brood-chamber, 2s. ; two supers with bars, window, and door, 2s. 2d. each, and roof, 1s. 9d., will cost about 9s. 6d. ; paint, 6d. ; foundation, 2s. 6d. ; and swarm, 10s. 6d. Total, 23s.
Movable-Comp Hive.
Hives of this description with single walls may be obtained from about 10s., but with the extras needed for a complete outfit a much larger sum must be expended. As a matter of economy, double-walledhives are strongly recommended, the extra cost being very little when the greater protection to the bees both winter and summer is considered, as a means towards obtaining full supers. Stocks in double-walled hives are warmer in winter and cooler in summer than those in single-walled hives. In favour of single-walled hives, it has been remarked that the rays of the sun in the early spring, penetrating the thin walls, warm the brood-nest, but such walls afford only moderate protection against the low temperature of the nights in spring. The best progress is made by a stock that is kept as nearly as possible at a uniform temperature. Hence the supreme importance of good non-conducting walls around the brood-nest.
For a well-made hive with double-walls front and back, the use of dummies being equivalent to double walls at the sides, the cost will be about as follows : floor-board, 2s. ; brood-chamber, with standard frames and distance-keepers, 5s. ; two shallow-frame supers, with frames and distance-keepers, 4s. each ; lift, 1s. ; roof, 2s. 6d. ; square of excluder zinc, 1s. (Fig. 34) ; foundation, 5s. 6d. ; swarm not less than 4 lbs., 14s.
Total cost, 39s. Full sheets of foundation for the brood-nest will take 11/1 lhs., and a like amount at least must be allowed for the two supers, full sheets not being necessary there. In the lower parts of the shallow frames not filled with foundation, the bees will build drone comb, but this is of little consequence, and rather an advantage, for the bees will use the wax they are secreting during the height of the honey-flow in completing the combs to the bottom bar. The use of a queen-excluder between the brood-chamber and the supers (Fig. 13) is desirable at all times, in order to keep the queen confined to the brood-chamber ; but it is imperative if the frames in the supers contain drone comb.
If sectional supers are used instead of bodies of shallow frames the cost will vary very little, as extra lifts and an adapting board will be required, also super foundation instead of brood, except for the brood-frames.
The following appliances may be considered extras to be obtained as the apiary is extended, and honey, both sectional and extracted, are produced : Smoker, from 2s. 6d.; honey-cistern (Fig. 40), with treacle tap and strainers, 15s.; honey knives (Fig. 39), each, 2s. 3d.; spatula or scraper, 1s. 3d.; wax extractor (Fig. 60), 10s. 6d.; feeders, from 1s. each. A stock of honey jars tie-over or screw-capped, labels and parchment, brood and super foundation, sections in the flat, 14-lb. or 28-lb. cans for extracted honey to be sold in bulk, and travelling crates for sections should be obtained in advance of requirements, so that no delay occurs when further super room or other attention is required by any of the stocks in the apiary. To the above list of stores should be added a packet of Naphthol Beta, 1s., and a box of Naphthalene, 1s., foil brood remedies, which should be at hand in every apiary.
Location of the Apiary.
Most unsuitable places are often given to the apiary, whereas considering its importance more thought should be given to the selection of the site. While a nice open spot not too sheltered from the sun, though as much as possible from the north and east, is best, it should not be where there is constant traffic. A rather low position on rising ground should be chosen if we are to render the return of heavily-laden bees easy. The ground upon which the hives stand must be kept free of weeds, and a few feet in the front should be kept clean and clear of crops. A lady who recently commenced bee-keeping by buying five stocks placed them at the middle of one side of the tennis lawn, fully believing that play would go on uninterruptedly, but a move of the stocks to another part of the garden had to take place before much tennis was indulged in.
The entrances of the hive should face the south or south-east, and the hives should be placed so that a path is immediately behind them. In many gardens hives are so placed all round without annoyance to any one, unless it be the gardener who works in the front of the hives at times the bees consider unsuitable.
## Distance Apart.
The hives may be placed as near together as three feet, but in that case some variation in the shape of the hive at intervals or some mark should be used to break the monotony. Six feet apart in the row where the space can be given, and twelve feet from row to row, is a more convenient arrangement.
### Bee-Flight.
In selecting the position of the apiary some consideration should be given to the location or probable location of honey-producing crops around. If the site chosen is surrounded by scanty crops, but with abundant forage two miles away, a grave mistake is made, as partly filled supers will prove. Very great ignorance prevails on the subject of bee-flight. That drones fly some miles is a well-known fact, but not so the workers. In my own district during recent years crops of mustard within two miles in direct line of flight have been neglected, and similar crops much nearer home have proved of less benefit than one could wish.
When writing on the subject of bee-flight in 1890 the late Rev. G. Raynor said that his Ligurians were working on crops three miles away, while his blacks were idling at home. This shows the former to be stronger on the wing and better foragers than the natives. Mr. Cheshire also stated that some stocks were moved four miles at night to the moors, and the next morning a cluster of drones was found on the old stands, but no workers. Mr. Baldwin moved a stockof bees in 1877 to St. Mary Cray, a distance of three to four miles, and in the morning he noticed that a number of bees had returned.
Taking the lesser distance--three miles--as the correct measurement in a direct line, it is evident that the radius of flight of those bees on their previous stands was at least one and a half miles. Most bee-keepers of experience, however, agree that crops one and a half to two miles away are practically valueless, while the nearer they are the greater the prospect of full supers. It is, therefore, a question worth considering as to whether stocks should not, as on the Nile and in other parts of the world, be moved to those spots where they are likely to do the greatest amount of work. By following the crops in this way, each move being not less than two miles away in a direct line, the honey returns are enormously increased, thus proving not only the practicability, but the advisability of moving bees " to pastures new."
## Moving Bees.
The ordinary removal of stocks to fresh sites in the same apiary should invariably take place in the depth of winter, preferably in the midst of frosty weather, when the bees have for some days been confined to their hives. The old position should be changed in appearance as much as possible, and to draw the attention of the bees, when they leave the hives for the first cleansing flight, to their new position a small branch should be placed in the ground and made to stand in the front of the entrance. The bees must then take note of their surroundings on leaving the hive. This means of drawing attention to a change of position is more essential when, for any reason, stocks are moved a short distance, say twenty or thirty yards, at a time of the year when the bees are daily on the wing. At such times a move of a yard or two every day, or alternate day, when the bees are flying freely, is a better plan, as they become accustomed to a change of position by degrees.
In moving stocks from one apiary to another beyond bee-flight, that is, at least two miles away, the early part of the year, or at the end of February, should be chosen, for then there will not be much brood, and the move will act to some extent as a stimulant to breeding. Later on, say in March or April, a better idea of the value of stocks could be ascertained, and no harm would result from the moving if it took place before much work had been done on the orchard bloom.
Packing Stocks and Swarms.
Swarms are easy to transport, but the following directions may be followed. Hive the swarm in a straw skep, and let it remain until the evening. Weigh the swarm box, examine the perforated zinc to see that it is securely nailed on the bottom and also on the lid, mark one side of the box and the side of the lid near to it; then set the box close by the swarm. Lift off the lid and place it down by the side of the box so that it can be picked up and placed upon the box as soon as the swarm is in. Now lift up the skep gently without moving the cluster, and when it is turned mouth upwards give it a sharp bump on the lower side of the skep, and before the bees recover, roll them into the box, give the skep a sharp elap on the sides with the palms of the hands, and then lift up the lid and place it on the box, carrying it a little distance away to put in the screws. If this operation is performed as directed in the evening, just when the bees have begun to settle down, say about seven o'clock, all but perhaps a dozen or two will in less then half a minute have been safely fastened in the swarm box. If any bees drop over the side of the box, leave them, but look carefully round to see if the queen is among them ; if she is, at once carry her on a piece of paper or something else along with a few bees to the swarm box. To get her in without allowing the bees to escape unscerew the lid, give the box a shake to throw the bees to the bottom, draw the lid a little to one side, and drop in the queen.
Swarms may also be sent in good-sized skeps with a square of canvas at the top and another at the bottom for ventilation. Two or three wisps of straw or balls of paper should be tied underneath the skep to keep the bottom off the ground and thus ensure a current of air passing through the skep.
To pack stocks in skeps proceed as follows : Pro-
eure a cheese box if of sufficient diameter ; if not, any light square box will do, and with a piece of thick string make a handle on each side near the top ; put into the bottom a good layer of straw, or roll pieces of newspaper into balls and cover the bottom with them, as a buffer must be provided to protect the stock from the effects which rough handling of such packages would produce. The box is now ready to receive the stock. Take a square of canvas and proceed to the stock, which should have previously been raised off the stand, and the front left an ineh or two off the floor-board so that the cool evening air will drive the bees up amongst the combs. Puff a little smoke into the entrance, then take a corner of the canvas between the thumb and forefinger of each hand, place the palms of the hands on the sides of the stock, which turn quickly over, letting the canvas fall over the mouth of the hive. Before the bees rise tie a string round the canvas. The hive may then be placed in the box, and if the space around the sides be padded with straw or paper, it will travel safely. To ensure extra care in handling while in transit the following words in large type should be written on the label :
## Live Bees on combs--WITH CARE.
It must be borne in mind that only stocks on fairly tough combs can be expected to travel safely. Sticks which are put through the hive in such a manner that they may be easily withdrawn are a great help to the safe transit of stocks, for the combs will be built to them, and so held securely.
Supposing the stock to be particularly strong in bees, the canvas will not be placed over the mouth of the hive with the ease it will over a moderately strong colony ; but in that case the hive should first be lifted off the stand, the bees brushed off the latter, and then the canvas spread upon it. Now return the stock, leaving the front raised, and most of the bees will be secured later in the evening by raising the canvas and tying it round the skep before the latter is inverted.
How to Start Bee-keeping.
Whether by swarms or stocks is a matter to be settled mainly by the buyer, who will start with the latter if he can procure good healthy stocks at a reasonable price in the spring. Stocks in skeps may be bought from cottagers when " taking up" time comes in the autumn, or in the early spring, for about the price of a good swarm later on in May or June, and with careful management each lot may be expected to give a swarm, and probably a cast or two, with which to stock new hives.
The most satisfactory start would be with new, well-painted hives and strong swarms; and, presuming this mode of commencing to be adopted, the swarm will be hired in the following manner :--
Swarms sent by rail should always travel in boxes with holes in the top and bottom, covered with perforated zinc, and the lid screwed on. If the swarm has come a long distance and arrives at night, a little syrup may be given over the perforated zinc in such a manner that no bees are drowned. The zinc smeared occasionally with honey or syrup will afford just that taste of food which will render the bees quiet on being turned out of the box.
The hive properly prepared should be placed on a spot cleared of weeds and made perfectly hard and level, then a piece of wood should be placed so that the upper edge, previously bevelled, will lean against the front edge of the alighting board, the bottom resting on the ground. This board is to afford the heavily-laden bees that fall short of the alighting board an easy means of reaching the hive.
The entrance to the hive, when introducing a swarm, should be as wide as possible, and, in addition to giving the full entrance, it may be raised slightly from the floor-board, and kept in that position by placing vedges at either end. The swarm box must be placed near the hive. First, remove the screws without allowing any bees to escape. Then take hold of the box with a hand on each side, the lid being held down by the thumbs, raise the box, and then set it down sharply. This will have the effect of throwing the bees into a heap on the bottom. Quickly throw off the lid, and, holding the box mouth downwards, shake a few bees out on to the alighting board as near as possible to the entrance.
As soon as they commence running in throw down more until all are in the front of the hive. If the queen is seen she should be lifted with a feather to the entrance, to ensure that the swarm will enter, which it will not do if the queen should get lodged beneath the alighting board or remain elsewhere outside the hive.
When the bees have become settled inside the hive, the entrance should be lessened during the time that the bees will be busy working the foundation into combs. In a few days the brood-chamber of the "Ivo " will be in a sufficiently forward state for supering operations to be commenced ; but the swarm in a bar-frame hive will require additional frames of foundation every few days, until the hive is full of combs, unless the brood-nest is limited, for supering with divisional sectional supers, until after the honeycomb.
## Chapter 3 Honey Production
The aim of improved methods of bee-keeping is to augment profit by an increased output of honey per hive. Consequently the bee-keeper must direct his efforts towards the preparation of those receptacles in which the surplus honey is to be stored. This is, of course, after care and attention have been bestowed upon the brood chamber, which at the commencement of the honey-flow should contain a large quantity of worker bees.
The first question naturally arising is: " Shall I produce run or drained, extracted or sectional honey?" This question must be answered by each bee-keeper, according to the facility with which he can dispose of his produce, always bearing in mind, first, that sectional honey should only be produced largely in those districts where crops producing honey that quickly granulates are scarce; and, secondly, whether the non-sectional honey shall be obtained by extracting honey from the combs, or by simply slicing them and draining the honey therefrom, must be determined by the size of the apiary, and the interest a bee-keepertakes in his hobby. Returns in both drained and extracted honey are generally allowed to be considerably in excess of the amount taken in sections, and, unless there is for the latter a quick sale at remunerative prices, it is preferable to confine our efforts entirely to producing either drained or extracted honey.