BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
it swarm, the swarm will be larger than usual. The above short account will give the beginner a fair idea of what swarming is and how to take advantage of it. It should always be borne in mind that a swarm is a vigorous worker. Should a swarm cling to a branch 20 or 30 feet from the ground, the Manum swarm catcher (Fig. 9) should be used instead of the box. If the swarm is too high to reach with a catcher, the branch should be cut off with a saw and lowered carefully to the ground with a rope. To prevent the loss of bees a sheet is generally spread on the ground, and a kerosene box placed on that. If the queen falls on the sheet, she will readily find the box, otherwise she is likely to be lost in the grass. It should be remembered that bees seldom sting while swarming, and many bee-keepers do not use a veil in handling swarms. Artificial swarms can be made by experts, but beginners should not attempt to do this.
**OLIPPING QUEENS' WINGS.**
**It is a common practice to cut the queen's wings to prevent her flying away with a swarm. The system of bee-keeping advocates the swarm.**cated in this pamphlet does not require this practice. If the hive is surrounded by high trees it may be necessary to clip the queen's wings, especially if she be of special value. The queen is held between the thumb and forefinger, whilst her wings are clipped with a sharp pair of small scissors. She will not sting the operator. Queens may be bought with their wings clipped.
The clipping of the wings is inadvisable as a general rule, as it is not a certain preventive of swarming and the queen, on running out with a swarm, is apt to be lost in the grass.
A better method of procedure is to discourage swarming as far as possible as soon as the requisite number of colonies have been obtained, or to rely on Manum's swarm catcher when the bees do swarm. The practice of clipping the wings seldom gives such good results as those obtained by letting the bees act in their natural way and by utilising the swarming instinct to the best advantage. Where liquid honey and wax are produced, swarming can be very easily controlled.
**LIQUID HONEY AND WAX PRODUCTION.**
It is generally considered by northern beekeepers that the production of wax alone will not pay. Usually books say little on the subject and the present production of wax is regarded merely as a by-product. There are however, situations in the West Indies where wax production should pay if rightly carried out. To produce wax, it is necessary that liquid honey only shall be prepared, the honey being extracted from the combs with a machine. As a rule two brood chambers or even three may be used in the hive, one above the other; the brood is restricted to the lower chamber by interposing between the lowest chamber and the next a perforated zinc honey board, which has holes large enough to allow the workers to get through, but not large enough for the queen. In this way, eggs cannot be laid in the upper chambers and the honey is not soiled by brood.
If these upper chambers are provided with frames _with one inch starters of foundation_, the bees will make combs, probably drone combs. When these are filled with honey and sealed over, they should be removed and the honey extracted with a machine. The combs are then cut out of the frames with the exception of a one-inch strip in each. This remaining inch allows the bees a "starter" when the frames are replaced. The combs that have been cut out are then placed in the solar wax-extractor, which will melt them into wax of the highest possible quality. Wax produced in this way should command 5 or 6 cents per pound more in London than the best boiled wax.
When old combs are used, it is necessary to boil the wax in a hot-water or steam kettle. Hive manufacturers generally sell kettles for this purpose, with directions for their use. Wax obtained in this way should subsequently be remelted in the solar wax-extractor, which will improve its appearance.
The production of wax and liquid honey naturally go together. This method is best suited to outlying places where transportation is difficult, as honey can be put in barrels or kegs and easily sent long distances. Wax should be carefully wrapped in clean paper
knife. This is best done over a barrel with wire cloth over one end, to allow the honey to drain into the barrel. These cappings make the best wax. The combs are then placed in the baskets of the extractor, the handle is turned and the honey flows out at one side. The baskets are then reversed, and the honey is removed from the other Honey Extractor
The baskets are then reversed, and the honey has all been extracted.
Combs may be used in the hive over and over again, but if wax is desired, they should be removed from the frames always leaving one inch as a " starter" for the bees to begin upon. If the highest possible quality of extracted honey is desired, soiled combs should not be replaced in the honey chamber, nor should the bees be allowed to breed in them.
**COMP BONEY PRODUCTION.**
**Good comb honey requires more care in its preparation than liquid honey, but the results, when good, are far more satisfactory. A reputation for excellence can be built up when good comb is produced and the extra trouble involved is amply repaid. The main point to be observed consists in having the sections full of clean " Weed" foundation, or better, having a few sections in each super filled with comb to act as " baits." If the brood chamber is full of bees, and plenty of flowers are in bloom, the bees will rush to fill the sections. After they have been at work for about a week, another super should be slipped on. When they take vigorously to work on the top super, a third may be put on top of it. When the last is partially filled examine the lowest ; should the sections be nicely finished off, take it off, place the two upper supers on the brood chamber and place the filled super on top,
rough handling. Crates can be obtained from live manufacturers very cheaply.
## 6 Comp Foundation.
One of the happiest inventions ever made for the benefit of bee-keepers was the machine for making comb foundation. It was invented by Mehring, a German mechanic. Comb foundation is simply a sheet of bees-wax stamped so as to resemble the base of a comb. So strong is this resemblance that when inserted into the hive the bees at once see the value of it and proceed to build their comb on it. Being made in fine flat sheets the combs are perfectly flat, much flatter than natural combs are likely to be. All beekeepers now use it. Its most valuable quality is the control it gives over drone production. Left to their own devices, the bees will build a large amount of drone comb wherein the queen will lay drone eggs, the result being a far larger number of drones than is required. There are 16 drone cells to a square inch of comb, and of worker cells there are 28. It is the practice where a large proportion of worker bees are wantedto insert comb foundation with \(\hat{\pm}8\) cells to the inch. The bees build this up into worker comb and a large production of drones is thereby prevented.
Where honey in the comb is wanted in small pieces it is usual to put on the hive supers, each containing \(28\) pound boxes or sections. If these are put on the hive as they are, the bees will refuse to build comb in so small a space, but the moment a sheet of comb foundation is inserted in each box the bees adopt a different attitude and proceed to build it into comb, and once having built the comb, will naturally store the honey in it.
For these reasons, the West Indian bekeeper is urged to use full sheets of foundation in the brood frames and full sheets also in the sections intended for comb honey. Some bee-keepers have adopted the plan of inserting small pieces of foundation termed "'starters " for the purpose of getting the bees to work ; this is not recommended. It is better to use the foundation liberally at the start and get good straight worker combs. Bee-keepers who resort to starters have to Chapter 4 Adopt drone traps and other devices to keep down the drones, forgetting that drones are very voracious creatures even while in the cell in a growing state, and that they will lose in a week's time as much honey as would have paid for the comb foundation, which may last 20 years if not longer.
The old plan of making comb foundation was to dip thin boards into melted wax, draw them out to cool and peel the adhering wax off in a sheet. This plan is almost now obsolete being replaced by the "Weed " process. In this a large block of wax is placed under heavy rollers which laminate the wax into sheets of the desired thickness. A tougher and thinner sheet is the result of this method, also it is faster in operation. It has been found far better to sell wax at a fair price, say 1/6 per pound and buy "Weed" foundation at 2/ per pound. If wax does not sell for 1/6, then the foundation will also be less in price. Taking this view of it, it does not pay anyone to make foundation at home. Fears have been expressed that foundation in the West Indies would not keep. It will keep for years in a cool place.
It is a common practice where strong combs are wanted to embed in the foundation light tinned wires. When inserted in the frames these wires tend to prevent the comb breaking when roughly handled. The Van Deusen foundation is made with the wires in it, but labours under the disadvantage of having the base of the cells flat bottomed. It is however a good kind of foundation for some purposes.
Fig. 14. shows the method of attaching the foundation to the frames with a Daisy roller.
Small machines called foundation fasteners are used to attach the foundation to sections. To illustrate also the method of inserting comb foundation.
The small sheets to be put into sections are \(3
rac{3}{8}\) inchesby \(3
rac{3}{8}\) inches, that is, if the section used is the \(4
rac{1}{4}\) inches by \(4
rac{1}{4}\) inches or \(\,\)pound section.
To fit the comb foundation into the frames, first remove the wedge shaped strip of wood which should be found in one of the grooves inside the top end of the frame. Then slip the foundation into the groove nearest the centre of the frame and fasten it securely in position by pushing the wedge strip back into its original place.
If wired frames have been ordered four holes should be found bored in the side bars of each, and the following directions carried out before putting the foundation in position. Drive two small tacks part-way in, about half an inch from each of the end holes on one side. Thread fine tinned wire (No. 30) backwards and forwards through the holes, and wind one end to one of the tacks and drive it home. Carefully pull the wire tight and fasten the other end to the second tack and drive that in also. Put the foundation in place as before, and obtain a smooth board, about \(
rac{7}{8}\) inches thick. just fitting inside the frame. Lay the frame down flat so that the foundation is supported by the board, and press the wires into the foundation.
## 10.2 Robber Bees.
When honey is scarce bees will sometimes rob one another, getting into desperate fights and killing each other by the thousand. should this happen, the entrance to each hive may be made smaller. The particular colony of bees attacked should be removed for two days and an empty hive put in its place to deceive the robbers. Bees can be trained to robbery by leaving bits of honey where they can readily find it. When the honey is all gone they will poounce on some weak colony and rob it. The moral is _never leave bits of honey lying about_.
In feeding bees in the tropics care should be taken to feed only as much syrup as the bees can consume overnight, also feeding them in the evening as late as possible, otherwise the smell of syrup is apt to attract neighbouring bees and lead them to commence robbing practices.
The value of bees in pollinating fruit blossoms can hardly be over-estimated. Elaborate experiments have been made which prove the value of bees to fruit growers. Unless the flowers are rendered fruitful by the visits of insects there is seldom a full crop. Bees are the best insects for this purpose. If a fruit tree is carefully watched it will be observed, if there are bees in the locality, that for every other insect present there will be perhaps a dozen bees. The finer varieties of fruit require more attention from the bees than the common or wild fruits. The growers of fine pears in the United States have been compelled to keep bees so as to ensure a crop of fruit, and growers of melons and cucumbers who grow fruit in glass houses have to keep bees or they get little or no fruit. The idea that bees are injurious to fruit has been thoroughly exploded.
The value of bees to fruit production is easily understood. They carry the pollen from the male to the female flowers. True, they carry away some of the pollen to feed the young bees, but nature has been bountiful and furnishes much more pollen than the plants actually require.
**USES OF HONEY.**
**The uses of honey are manifold. It is used in the preparation of first class confections. It is better than sugar for sweetening preserved fruit. A mixture of butter and honey is said by French doctors to be superior to cod liver oil for invalids. It is by far the safest sweet to give children. For pulmonary complaints doctors recommend it. Having been partially digested by the bees it is good for persons with a weak digestion. It will keep for a hundred years in an ordinary bottle and come out just as fresh as when it went in. It requires no cooking or any perservative. It is nutritious food. Honey and milk together form a perfect food for man. It is also a medicine, especially particular kinds gathered from certain flowers. It is easily tested for adulteration. Good honey gets solid when exposed to cold it is therefore a simple matter to put honey in a refrigerator a few days and see if it gets solid. If it remains liquid it may be reasonably suspected of adulteration. Honey improves with age, inferior honey will generally improve by being kept. Vinegar made from honey is the best procurable.
**EXPORTING LIQUID HONEY.**
Liquid honey for export should never be put up in bottles, either-barrels or tins (but scrupulously clean) should be used. **Rum or beer barrels, if quite sweet, answer very well. Tins, especially clean kerosene tins, are consider-ed excellent packages for honey, both in London and New York Honey so put up commands a high-er price than in wooden barrels. Fig. r5. Box to hold two sixty-pound cases of liquid honey.
**for honey is shown in Fig. 15, which, if necessary, can be obtained from New York.**
**ENEMIES OF BEES.**
**There are quite a number of enemies of**bees in the West Indies but only two call for special attention, the frog and the bee moth. The large frog or \(\it{erapeau}\) is a voracious eater of bees and will consume bees almost as fast as they alight on the entrance board of the hive. Luckily there is an easy remedy ; it is simply to keep the hive two feet from the ground on a platform. Poultry netting around the apiary will also keep them away. The moth is a troublesome enemy but almost as easily circumvented. Langstroth's remedy was "keep your colonies strong " for it is only in weak stocks that the moth does such harm. All bee-keepers should carefully look through their hives every few weeks to see if moths or moth eggs are in the hive. Should there be any such remove them and at the same time find the queen. If the latter seems to be all right, feed the colony a little. They will turn round and expel the moths from the hive and increase the number of bees so that all combs are protected by young bees. Moths lay their eggs in combs uncovered by bees. If empty combs are kept in the house these should be secured so that the moths cannot get at them. A few balls of napthalene are excellent preventatives. The energetic bee-keeper is very little troubled with moths. Neglect is the prime cause of moths destroying a colony of bees.
**DISEASES OF BESS.**
In the islands for which this pamphlet is primarily intended there are practically no bee diseases worth mentioning. _To continue this desirable state of affairs it is absolutely necessary that no hives of bees be imported from foreign countries._ In Cuba, disease is rampant and a great drawback to successful bee-keeping. If any one is desirous of improving their bees, it may be accomplished by the importation of pure bred Italian queens from good breeders. _There is not the slightest necessity to import bees and it is to be hoped no one will attempt it except under expert advice from the Department of Agriculture_.
**AXIOMS FOR BEE-KEEPERS.**
**Keep your colonies strong.**
**Keep a record of the age of all your queens.**
**Bees filled with honey never want to sting.**
**When honey is being freely gathered, there is little danger from stinging.**
**Smoke compels bees to fill themselves with honey.**
**Do not make quick movements close to a hive; be most deliberate; never jar anything with bees on it.**
**Having many swarms means little honey. Queensland colonies are a prey to all enemies. Keep up to date by reading good bee journals. Keep a careful record when honey flowers commence to bloom, it will be valuable in future use. Keep your hives shaded from the mid-day sun and face them eastward. In the West Indies use the largest sized hives. (Barbados is an exception to this rule).**
**BOOKkeeping FOR BEE-KEEPERS**.
If the highest success is to be attained in bee-keeping it is necessary that the bee master keep an accurate record of his hives. It will be found that some stocks give much better returns than others ; for this reason it is well to breed only from such colonies ; by this means the strain of bees will be improved. The age of every queen should be known. When a queen gets to be two years of age she should be removed and replaced by another and it is useless to attempt to keep such knowledge in one's memory. Bees only live 4 or 5 weeks and to replace this constant drain of working force a vigorous young queen is required. A queen will live four or five years but after the second year rapidly declines in laying value, hence the importance of a record. A small slate under the roof of every live is an excellent record where only a few are kept. On this should be kept the age of the queen, her pedigree, and the condition of colony when last examined.
A book for the purpose of keeping a record of 100 colonies of bees is publishedby George W. York, publisher of the _American Bee Journal,_ 144, **Erie Street**, Chicago, Illinois, U.S.A. 'The slates can be purchased from the A. I. I Root C3.
BOOKS ON BEES.
A large number of books have been devoted to the study of the bee, but a few only are of value at the present time. Among the long list of eminent men who have devoted themselves to the subject, Huber stands first. Next in order comes Langstroth, whose book is no less valuable than his hive. If possible one of the earlier editions of the book should be read, as well as that revised by Dadant. No bee-keeper, who aspires to breed queens, should do so without Dzierson's book on the _Theory of Parthenogenesis in Bees_. For practical use, one at least of the following should be obtained :--
_Bees and Bee-keeping_ by F. Cheshire.
(L. Upcott Gill, Strand, London).
_The Honey Bee_ by Cowan. (Houlston & Co., London.) This deals chiefly with the structure of the honey bee.
The Hive and Honey Bee_ by Langstroth revised by Dadant.
(Dadant, Hamilton, Hancock Co. Illinois, U.S.A.)
Manual of the Apiracy by Professor Cook.
(Cook, Pomona, California or A. I.
Ioot Co., Medina, Ohio, U.S.A.)
A.B.C. of Bee Culture by A. I. Root.
(A. I. Root Co., Medina, Ohio, U.S.A.)
A Year among the Bees by Dr. C. C. Miller.
Queen Rearing by Doolittle.
(G. W. York, American Bee Journal, Chicago, Illinois, U.S.A.)
Queen Rearing by Henry Alley.
Everyone who hopes to make money by bee-keeping should subscribe to a bee-journal, even if it be only to find out where to sell his honey to the best advantage.
The following include the most prominent journals devoted to bee-keeping :-
_The British Bee-keeper_ published at King's Langelly, Herts, England.
_Gleanings in Bee Culture_ published by the A. I. Root Co., Medina, Ohio, U.S.A. (Semi-monthly).
_American Bee Journal,_ Chicago, Illinois, U.S.A. (Weekly).
_The American Bee-keeper_, Falconer, Jamestown, New York State, U.S.A. (Monthly).
_The Bee-keepers Review,_ Flint, Michigan, U.S.A. (Monthly).
**HIVE MANUFACTUREERS**.
Gool, Shipley and Muir Ltd., Brantford Canada.
A. I. Root Co. Medina, Ohio, U.S.A.
W. I. Falconer, Jamestown, New York, U.S.A.
G. B. Lewis Co., Watertown, Wisconsin, U.S.A.
**A. I. Root Co., Medina, Ohio, T.S.A.**
**Dadant & Son, Hamilton, Hancock Co., Illinois, U.S.A.**
**Van Deusen & Sons, Sprout Brook, New York, U.S.A.**
**BEE-FLOWERS OF THE WEST INDIES.**
**Acacias, various species.**
**Agave. American alo.**
**Agave, various species**
**Angelin.**
**Bastard Cabbage.**
**Walnut (Antigua).**
**Andira heimis.**
**Avocadopear.**
**Alligator pear.**
**_Avocat_ (Fr.),**
**Zabaca_ (Fr.), Perska gratissima.**
**Banana.**
**Banane figure_ (Fr.)**
**Musa sapintum.**
**Bois immortalel.**
**Erthrina umbrosa.**
**Cassia.**
**Cassia various species.**
**Christmas wreath.**
**Christmas gambol, Bell-flower.**
**Campanula " (Cuba.)**
**Ipomaa sidaefolia.**Citron. _Citvunie_ (Fr.) Cirrus medica. Cotton. _Cotonnier_ (Fr.) Gosspium barbadensx and other species. Cucumber. _Gros coneombre_ (Fr.) Cucums sativus. Eucalyptus, various species. Fiddle wood. _Bois ectelette_ (Fr.) Cirrus-arexylum quadrangulare. Galba. Santa Maria (Jamaica). _Palo Maria_ (Sp.), Calophyllum Calaba. Gourd. _Potirion_ (Fr.), Cucurbita maxima. Guava. _Goyavier_ or _Goliave_ (Fr.) Psidium Guajava. Hog-plum. _Monbin_ (Fr.) Spondias lutea. Lantana. Iock sage. _Sauge_ (Fr.), Lantana, various species. Lignum Vitae. _Gaiac_ (Fr.) Guiaacum officials. Lime. _Citron_. (Fr.) Cirrus medica, var. acida. Locust. Courbaril. Simiri (St. Lucia and British Guiana) IJmenaa Courbaril.
Logwood. _Campeche_ (Fr.), Haematoxylin campckhianum.
Louat. _Nefier du Japon_ (Fr.), Eirobotrya japonica.
Mahagony. _Aeqjou_ (Fr.), _Caobo_ (Sp.). Swietenia Mahagoni.
Malacca apple. Malay apple. Large rose apple. _Ponme d'Hatii_ (Fr.). _Ponme d'Hatii_ (Fr.) _Ponme d'anour_ (Fr.) Eugknia malacensis.
Manchineel. _Manetillier_ (Fr.) _Manetillier_ (Sp.) Hippocamp Mancinella.
Melon. Cucumis Melo.
Muskmelon. Cucumbita moschata.
**Nutmeg.**_Muscade_ (Fr.) Myristica fragrans.
Ochro. _Gonubo_ (Fr.) Hibiscusiscus l'entus.
Orange. _Orauger_ (Fr.) Citrus Auration.
Plantain. _Banae_ or _Banaire_ (Fr.) Mrsa sapientum yar paradisiaca.
Pumpkin. _Gironout_ (Fr.) Cucubita P'epo.
**Raspberry.** Redberry (Dominica). _Fraise_ (Martinique) IRubus rosaefolius.
Rose apple, _Ponne rose_ (Fr.) Eugenia Jambos.
Iosemary. _Croton_, species.
Seaside grape. _Raisinier bord de mer_ (Fr.) Coccoloba uifera.
Shaddock. Pumelo. Grape-fruit. _Chad-dok_ (Fr.) _Fruit defeund_ (Fr.) Citius dkoumana and varieties.
Silk cotton. Ceiba. _Fronager_ (Fr.) Eriodendron anfractuosum.
Spanish ash ( Barbados ). Gliriodia maculata.
Squash (a variety of the pumpkin). Cucurbita Pepo var.
Sugar-cane. Saccharum officianum
Sweet potato. _Pateate doute_ (Fr.) Iromaka Batatas.
Tamarind. _Tamarinier_ (Fr.) Tamarindus indica.
Tobacco. _Tabac_ (Fr.) Nicotiana Tabacum.
**Vervain.**Stachtarpheta indica.
_Verweine courante_ (Fr.), Lippia REPtans.
**Water melon.**_Citrouille_ (Fr.) Ctrul-Lus vulgaris.
**Willows (so called in Barbados). CappaRIS, species.**
GLOSSARY. '
_Alighting board._ The projecting board on which the bees alight before entering the hive.
_Apiary._ A number of hives.
_Apiculture._ The science of keeping bees.
_Artificial exam._ A swarm made by a bee-keeper.
_Bar frame._ The hanging Langstroth frame.
_Bee escape._ A device for freeing asuper from bees.The bees can get out of the super but cannot return.
_Bee space_. A sufficient space to allow one bee to pass, _i.e._\(
rac{1}{6}\) of an inch.
_Black brood_. A contagious disease of bees.
_Brood_. Young bees still in their cells.
_Brood conb_. The comb used solely for rearing bees.
_Capped brood_. Cells, in which the young bee has reached the "chrysalis " stage and been covered over.
_Capped honey_. Honey comb covered with wax.