BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
The Langstroth, or Langstroth Simplicity, is the frame that is in universal use in every part of the bee-keeping world. It is \(17\frac{5}{8}\) in. by \(9\frac{1}{2}\) in., and has a superficial area of 167 square inches. It is made in two forms; the broad, as shown, and the shallow. The former is now always used in the brood chamber. Since it first left its inventor's hands it has undergone several slight modifications. The top bar has been made thicker. The thick top bar has several advantages. In the first place, the queen is not so likely to pass over it into the supers for laying purposes, and it gives additional strength to that part of the frame that has to bear the greatest strain. Improvements have also been made to it for the purpose of facilitating the fastening of the foundation comb; these have been eminently successful. The ends have been so made that when brought close up they give correct bee-space. They may be useful for amateurs, but in the hands of practical men who understand the various requirements under different conditions, there is no advantage gained with them.
## BAR-FRAMES IN PARTs.
There was a time when it was as essential for a bee-keeper to be an amateur carpenter as an apiarist; but the construction of hives and frames by machinery has brought them within the reach of all. The very school children, with their pocket and pin-money, can now become the owners of as good, and in many cases better, be-hives than their seniors had to work with a few years ago.
Not a decade since there were in use some of the most crudely constructed hives and other bee appliances that we can possibly conceive of. When the National Prizes were in distribution I met with some that were as unworkable as they were grotesque, and the workman-ship would cause an outburst of laughter among the members of any of the carpentry classes of our public schools. Not a right-angle in either hive or frame, and the joints were only such in name. Some of the bee-keepers with these crude and most primitive appliances expected to score heavily in the competition. Nevertheless, some of them actually obtained good results, but to do so was a work of love.
But this summary of hives would not be complete without a detailed description of the various parts of both hive and frames. Notwithstanding the accuracy in measurement and uniformity in pattern of the various parts of the bee-home that are constructed from machine-made goods. in some of our distant country districts it is essential that patterns and measurements should be within easy reach when required. Such details will also greatly aid in putting together the various portions when the hives, &c., are bought in the flat.
The diagrams of the various patterns of frames that are and have been in use, and also their measurements, are given.
## THE ORIGNAL LANGSTROTH FRAME
The most simple frame in its construction was the original "Langstroth." "In 1851," says Professor Cook, "Mr. Langstrothgave a hive to the world that left the hands of the great master in so perfect a form that even the details remain unchanged by many of our first bee-keepers. And up to date the Langstroth frame has undergone no alteration either in form or measurement." The material for its construction should be American red-wood, or any other wood of a light character, well seasoned, and free from knots. These two latter are of importance. If the wood is not properly seasoned, it is very liable to warp or twist and thus throw everything out of plumb. A knot in a thin top or side bar very frequently causes the destruction of a comb by breakage at the knot-hole.
_Measurements of a Langstroth Frame.--_The wood in all the Langstroth bars was originally of uniform thickness, \(\frac{1}{4}\)-inch, and also a uniform width, \(\frac{7}{8}\) - inch, _i.e._, inch stuff was used which, after dressing, reduced it to the required width. Top bar, \(19^{1}_{8}\) inches; each end bar, 9 in.; and the bottom bar, \(17^{5}_{8}\) inches. All these measurements are from out to out, and this will be followed in regard to all other pattern frames, except when otherwise stated. It is almost impossible to put these frames together to the required accuracy excepting with the aid of a frame-block or other gauge.
After the ends are nailed securely to the top bar, there must be a shoulder of \(\frac{3}{4}\) inch. This gives bee-space between the side of the hive and the end bar of the frame, and \(\frac{1}{2}\) an inch to rest on the rebate in the end of the hive.
Of late years all the original Langstroth bars have undergone modifications. What was said to have "left the hands of the great master in so perfect a form" does not hold good to-day as regards certain details. The top bar has increased in thickness. The thin top bars, especially when used in the supers, were very liable to sag by reason of the weight of the honey. I have known the same result to take place in the frames of the brood-chambers; in this way too much space is left between the top bar of the one frame and the bottom of the one above it. The bees take advantage of this by building therein, much to the inconvenience of the manipulator. This sagging is prevented by the use of the thick top bar. The top bar is generally \(\frac{5}{8}\) inch. I have seen them used a full inch but this is unnecessary. Of course, when the thick top is used, a shoulder must be cut in it on either end one inch long, leaving \(\frac{1}{4}\) inch of wood to form it (\(\frac{1}{4}\) inch for the thickness of the end piece, \(\frac{1}{4}\) inch for bee-space, and \(\frac{1}{2}\) inch to rest on the rebate.
The thick top bar as now used is vastly superior to that of the Allowed, its superiority being in the tongue for the attachment of the foundation, starters being worked on the bar itself instead of being an independent or a detached tongue. Not only is it a great saving in labour, but the foundation has a greater security, the ends being cut so that the angles, being perfectly square, have the advantage of all the right-angles of the complete frame being sufficiently perfect for all practical purposes. Thus the frame, when in use, hangs plumb, that is if the hive itself rests perfectly level.
_The Hoffman ends_ are self-spacing. They are always preferred by amateurs. One of the greatest difficulties with beginners is correct spacing. They are generally more or less timid in handling bees, and in their hurry to get away from the supposed danger the quilt is placed over before all the frames have been properly adjusted. I have frequently seen, after re-opening a hive that has been closed without due care, the frames in all sorts of angles, and no two of them collateral. Then, again, if the top bars vary in width which is often the case with home-made frames, the discrepancies are seldom taken into consideration. Correct, parallel spacing should be a maxim indelibly fixed on the minds of every bee-keeper. The absence of these precautions causes more annoyance than all other careless acts put together.
Again, it will be noticed that both ends of the Hoffman side bars are so cut as to ensure all the angles of the complete frame being correct. The bottom bar dovetails with the side bar, and the thick top also dovetails into the shouldered ends. With these adjuncts connected with each portion of the frame, it forms its own frame-block, and if the frame, when put together, fails to be true, and each frame is a counterpart of the other, the fault lies in the connecting of the pieces. The plain end-bars, or those that have the dovetails on one end only, are far more liable to go awry than the self-spacing or shouldered ends.
The original Allowed top-bar frame was made with metal ends, and the bottom bars secured by means of metal angles. They are still in use with a few. The object of them was two-fold; greater ease in fixing the foundation starters and to prevent the gluing with propolis the ends to the rebates in the hive by the bees. A groove in the top bar runs from end to end; there is also a corresponding short groove in each of the side bars. After the frame is put together, a thin strip of wood (tongue) is fitted into the groove; secured in its position by the short grooves in the end pieces to this tongue the foundation is affixed. The foundation can be fixed more readily, and at the same time more securely with a foundation fastener than with molten wax. One of its weak points is the detached tongue, and the loss of time in fixing it in the groove. Another drawback to it is the detached metal end pieces. These can never be so fixed as to carry a frame full of honey. When the frame is full, the ends always more or less give way at the point of juncture. More than once I have seen them do so when lifting out a frame for extracting purposes. The metal corner pieces for fixing the bottom bar to that of the side have no advantage above the old-fashioned nails. The advantage sought to be obtained by the use of these metal ends I have already referred to is antipropolising. These metal ends resting on the fine edge of the metal rebate very materialy mitigates the trouble, and sometimes even the difficulty of removing. Where frames are permitted to remain in the rebate until the bee glue becomes hardened force has to be used to detach them, and they come away with a jerk, which is always annoying to bees. The work of collecting propolis, and its use in any part of the hive, is an unnecessary labour for the bees, and should never be entailed upon them. There is no profit in it either for the bees or their master, and when so engaged, they are neglecting a work that is far more profitable.
_The narrow bottom bar,_ and the reason for its use, has been called attention to. The narrower it is made consistent with strength, the more readily will the bees attach the comb thereto.
The latest antipropolising invention comes to us from America Of course, it has not had time as yet to be put into use here. A. J. Root, who brought it out, and has tested it, speaks with the greatest confidence for the merits claimed for it, and, from the diagrams forwarded with the description, very justly so. It has come into my hands since I commenced this part of my subject. It is well known that bees have an aversion to work on metals of any kind; hence the metal rebate and the Allwood metal ends. I have shown wherein the latter failed. This latest cannot be charged with such a weakness. The shoulder of the top bar is reduced in (bee-space) on either end for the purpose of preventing its coming into contact with the woodwork of the hive. After the frame is put together, a staple is driven through the end bar and into the thick top, one on either end, as shown in the diagram. In putting the frame into position the staple comes flush against the elevated portion of the metal rebate, metal against metal, thus the only wood that can be glued
is where the top of the frame rests on the knife edge of the tin rabbet. The staple is driven home within \(\frac{1}{4}\) in. A wood gauge, as shown, is used to prevent the staple being driven otherwise than correct, a device that I adopted very successfully when using the Berlepsch frame. These latter frames when put into the hive at the back, were pressed into position, and, to secure the proper space between the frames, flat-headed nails were used. To secure a uniform protruding length, I always used such a gauge.
Notwithstanding Prof. Cook's statement that the bar frame left the hand of its inventor ''in so perfect a form,'' etc., it does not appear as yet, after upwards of forty years being in use, to be past improvement.
Ready-made bar-frames are obtainable from dealers in be goods very cheaply. They should be purchased in the flat.
## Langstroth's Hive.
Langstroth, in thinking out the \(\mu\)_ros_ and _cons_ of his valuable system of bee-keeping, appears to have well weighed the various details of the advantages or difficulties that bee-keepers of the future would be most likely to meet with. Judging from what he then wrote it would seem that the _pros_ would largely out-balance the _eons_. In studying what both mankind and beekind would require, he has given upwards of sixty necessary requisites that, in his opinion, go to make up a complete hive--a hive that shall be a protection against all climatic changes, and both workable and profitable--_i.e._, profitable as in labour-saving for the bees and honey production for the bee-keeper.
Out of the sixty odd points he enumerates as the requisites of a complete hive, experience has taught us that the whole of them have not worked as the great bee-master had anticipated. In the majority of his points he is undoubtedly right, and experience has taught that many are wrong, or need to be greatly modified. Let us look at the various points in the order he has given them. He says :--
1. A complete hive should give the apiarian such perfect control of all the combs that they may be easily taken out without cutting them or enraging the bees.
The Langstroth hive of to-day can be so worked by the merest amateur, and with ordinary care with the more docile bees, frequently few, if any, will rise on the wing with that well known sharp note indicative of rage.
1. It should permit all necessary operations to be performed without hurting or killing a single bee.
In removing and replacing frames when examining bees, more are killed by carelessness than in any other way. Hives that are constructed so that the frames come flush with the top of the hive, and where flat covers are used, are one of the causes of the destruction of bees, and another is in placing the quilt over while the top bar is covered with bees. With the bellows drive all the bees below before covering them up.
1. It should afford suitable protection against extremes of heat and cold, sudden changes of temperature, and the injurious effects of dampness.
The hive must be protected from rain, so that there should be no internal moisture. It should be so placed as to admit every ray of the winter's sun. But during the great heat of summer there must be perfect ventilation. For these the hive should be so constructed as to permit a good supply of fresh cool air in summer, and at the same time exclude the chilly winds of winter.
1. It should permit every desirable operation to be performed without exciting the bees.
In point 1 he has said the same thing in other words.
2. Not one unnecessary motion should be required of a single bee.
That will mainly depend upon the bees themselves. Some bees are far more docile than others. To obtain this perfection care and experience must be exercised in selecting breeding stocks. "The motion" of bees also depends on the season; if large supplies of honey are coming in, bees are more tractable than when on the verge of starvation.
1. It should afford suitable facilities for inspecting the conditions of the bees at all times.
Hives as now made afford every opportunity for inspection if proper care is exercised in their construction, and care taken in placing them in position; but bees should not be examined at all times--not during the winter season, or during damp rainy weather, nor when a high wind is blowing.
1. It should be capable of being readily adjusted to either the wants of large or small colonies.
Bees should never have more frames to work on than they can occupy. They should be kept in compact quarters by means of the "dummy" or division board.
1. It should allow the combs to be removed without any jarring.
All jarring and jerking can be avoided by using hives and frames so constructed that the bees will find that _bee glue_ is a waste of labour.
1. It should allow every good piece of comb to be given to the bees instead of melting it into wax.
There is no greater waste of profit than the destruction of combs. With care they should last for years, especially in supers. With the modern honey extractors, little or no comb need be broken or destroyed. Brood comb, when too old, should be replaced with comb from the supers, care being taken to observe that it is free from drone cells.
10. It should induce bees to build regular combs.
The bee-keeper is responsible for this. If the advice that I have constantly given on this point be followed, bees will build their combs as true as a railroad track.
11. It should furnish empty comb, to induce bees to occupy more readily the surplus honey receptacles.
Means to furnish empty combs should always be available; but the greatest inducement to bees to occupy surplus honey space is a strong colony, and a good honey flow.
12. It should prevent over-production of drones by permitting the removal of drone-comb from the hive.
One of the best methods of preventing the over-production of drone-comb is whole sheets of artificial comb and young queens. Drone-comb should be permitted in the supers. Bees appear to prefer drone cells for storage purposes. They are more readily constructed, and it is a saving of material; but in the brood chamber a very limited number should be permitted, excepting where a drone-breeding queen is kept for stock purposes.
13. It should enable the apiarian, if too many drones have been raised, to trap and destroy them before they have largely consumed the honey of the hive.
To check the over-production, as mentioned above, comb foundation is a great auxiliary; but by systematically destroying all queens over two years of age, drones will be greatly minimised. To re-queen every hive every season is undoubtedly the best way. This does not refer to queens that are kept as drone breeders for stock purposes.
14. It should enable the apiarian to remove all such comb as are too old. (See remarks on Point 9.)
15. It ought to furnish all needed security against the bee-moth.
Strong colonies, Italian bees, and a good honey flow constitute the best security against the bee-moth.
16. It should furnish to the apiarian some accessible place, where the larvae of the moth, when fully grown, may wind themselves in their cocoons.
This is encouraging the breeding of vermin so as to have the pleasure of destroying them. Prevention is always better than cure. The preventive measures are indicated above.
17. It should enable the apiarian, by removing the combs, to destroy the worms if they get the advantage of the bees.
The worms are the weeds of a bee-hive, and as the weeds in a garden show want of care on the part of the gardener, so worms show the want of care on the part of the apiarian. If by removing the combs, the worms can be destroyed, why have some accessible place, where the larvae of the bee moth, when fully grown, may wind themselves in their cocoons.
18. The bottom board should be permanently attached to the hive for convenience in moving it and to prevent the depredations of moths and worms.
Experience has taught that a removable bottom-board is far better than a fixed one. The dirtiest part of a hive is the bottom-board, especially in spring time, after a winter's semi-hibernation. It is an easier matter to lift the hives with the bees, remove the bottom-board, and replace it with a clean one than it would be to transfer the bees to another hive. Another thing, the brood is not so likely to be chilled as removing frames to another hive. If the bee-moth should gain the crevices between the hive and movable bottom-board as Langstroth points out, they are much more easily dislodged than when they take possession of the crevices in a fixture.
See my concrete floors on page 152. The concrete floor has all the advantages necessary in 19 and 20.
19. The bottom-board should slant towards the entrance to facilitate the carrying out of the dead bees and other useless substances; to aid a colony in protecting itself against robbers; to carry off moisture, and to prevent rain beating into the hive.
The slight inclination towards the entrance, necessary to keep the rain from driving in would be no aid to the bees in carry ing out the dead. One of the best ways to aid a colony to protect itself against robbers is to contract the hive entrance. Moisture in the hive is chiefly caused by condensation. Hives are liable to it in the winter, the cold air on the outside of the hive coming in contact with the warm within. An American leather quilt placed between the top of the frames and the lid of the hive, with the woolly side down in winter, is the best cure. If the frames run fore and aft as in the "Simplicity," the hive may be tilted a trifle forward. This will in no way interfere with the frames lying plumb.
The bottom-board should admit of being easily cleansed, in cold weather, of dead bees.
In cold weather, how is the bottom-board to be cleaned without the removal of the bees if it be a fixture? But with a movable one it is easily done.
No part of the interior of a hive should be below the level of the exit.
The entrance is most convenient when cut in the solid bottom-board V-shape, having a fall outwards. This will do away with all the trouble Langstroth refers to in connection with the bottom-board.
It should afford facilities for feeding bees, both in warm and cold weather.
Honey should never be taken from bees to the extent that they need feeding. Of course there are seasons when there is little or no honey flow. No hive has facilities for feeding of bees better than the Langstroth bar-frame.
It should permit the easy living of a swarm without injuring any bees or risking the destruction of the queen.
The Langstroth hive, with ordinary care, is so workable that bees need be injured in hiving.
It should admit of safe transportation of the bees to any distance.
An article on the transportation of bees is given elsewhere.
1. It should furnish bees with air when the entrance, from any cause, must be entirely shut.
This can always be done, where there is a movable bottom-board, by lifting the hive, and supporting it with a small nail or other rest.
1. It should furnish facilities for enlarging, contracting, and (or) closing the entrance, to protect the bees against robbers and the bee-moth; and when the entrance is altered, the bees ought not, as in most hives, lose valuable time in searching for it.
Some modern hives are made with a full width entrance; it is contracted by means of two slats, one on either side, and are moved towards the centre, thus the bees never fail in finding it. Where the V entrance is used, the entrance is extended or contracted by moving the hive forward or backward as required, the bottom-board being made sufficiently long to admit it. For this purpose the concrete is admirably adapted.
1. It should give the requisite ventilation without enlarging the entrance so much as to expose the bees to moths and robbers.
Experience teaches that moths, with practical men, are things of the past; and that the best means of ventilation is by means of a wide entrance, providing there is an escape for the heated air near the top. IIot air rises, and the vacuum caused thereby is filled by the cold air taking its place by rushing in at the entrance.
1. It should furnish facilities for admitting at once a large body of air, that the bees may be tempted to fly out and discharge their feces on warm days in winter or early spring.
Here again experience has taught that a small entrance is best for winter. Warm days will be sure to tempt the bees out for the purpose named. At other times their feces are discharged on the bottom-board, and in this the movable bottom shows its superiority over fixed one, as it can readily be cleaned any warm day, even in the winter. On warm days in winter, by lifting the hive from a concrete floor it can be washed, and all traces of faeces removed.
1. It should enable the apiarian to remove the excess of bee-bread from old stock.
Bees always prefer new pollen to old, and if there is new coming in plentifully, it is as well to remove a judicious portion of the old. Nevertheless, "'Don't discard the old love till you have safely secured the new one."
1. It should enable the apiarian to remove the combs, brood, and stores (also the bees) from a common to an improved hive so that the bees may be easily able to attach them again to their natural position. A colony transferred to my (Langstroth) hive will repair their combs in a few days, so as to work as well as before their removal.