BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
It may be well to state in this connection that the National Bee-keepers' Association frequently undertakes to defend its members in a court of law where the circumstances warrant the assistance of this influential body.
Foul-Birood Laws:
hee-disease laws; their enforcement.
In controlling bee diseases in a community, past experience has shown that it is necessary that every bee-keeper do his part; otherwise the work done by individuals is largely nullified by the carelessness or neglect of a few. Where all the bee-keepers are progressive, a simple plan of co-operation would be enough; but, unfortunately, there are in almost all communities some bee-keepers who are either ignorant, careless, or willfully negligent. If, therefore, they will not voluntarily care for their bees as they should, there must be some legal means of compelling them to abate a public nuisance when disease appears among their colonies. Without such a law for regions where disease exists, progressive bee-keeping is difficult and nearly impossible.
Laws providing for inspection of apiaries with the object of controlling disease are, therefore, drafted primarily for the bee-keeper who does not voluntarily treat diseased colonies. The progressive bee-keeper needs no such law to compel him to do his duty. The inspector of apiaries, however, in actual practice, is much more than a police officer; in fact, his police duties are but a small part of his work. However the law may be worded, the good which an inspector does is due in the greater part to his work as an educator. It is the duty of the inspector, specified in the law in most cases, to instruct the bee-keepers how to know disease and how and when to treat. The great good which has been done by the various inspectors in the past has been due almost entirely to this phase of their work.
It is, however, most unwise to set the inspector to work merely as an educational officer without any power to enforce his orders. This has been tried, and appears to be a failure. There are, unfortunately, in almost all communities, bee-keepers who, from obstinancy or spite, must be driven to their duty. Most men, however, when once they learn that they must treat disease will accept the teachings of the inspector.
The following States and Territories now have laws of some kind providing for inspection: California, Colorado, Connecticut, Hawaii, Idaho, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, Nevada, New Mexico, New York, Ohio, Oregon, South Dakota, Texas, Utah, Washington, Wisconsin. Somewhat similar laws exist in New Zealand, some states in Australia, Ontario, Ireland, and parts of Europe. The bee-keepers in several other States are now agitating the passage of similar laws.
These laws may be divided into two groups \(-\)those in which the work is done by men employed by the State, and those in which, by a State, Territory, or county law, the county authorities may appoint inspectors for the county only. Of these the work by state officers has proven much more effective. In States where the counties are small, as in the East, county inspection is of practically no value (e. g., Ohio). In States where the counties are small it is practically impossible to get competent inspectors in every county; and, furthermore, there is not enough work or enough money available to induce a good man to take the work, unless he is doing it merely for the good of the industry. In the West, where some counties are as large as some of the Eastern States, there is more reason for county inspection; but even in these cases the results are, as a rule, not equal to those obtained in States having State inspection.
The chief weakness in county inspection is the lack of co-operation among the inspectors in neighboring counties. There is in most cases not only a lack of co-operation, but too often a jealousy between them which results in a loss of co-ordination in the work. This might be remedied by the appointment of a competent State inspector to whom the county inspectors would be responsible; but county officials would probably object to the appointment of officers over whom they had
to excel it. The honey obtained from log-wood, in point of color, body, and flavor, is equal to the finest table honey in the world; indeed, it is almost water-white, and the bouquet is of the best. It blooms after a season of rains, hence it may give four crops in a year, and frequently gives three where the climate admits of it. When the conditions are favorable it yields enormously. It is a common tree over the whole peninsula of Y'natan, including British Honduras; and were the people of that country to engage extensively in apienulture, logwood honey would cut quite a figure in the European and American markets. When in a pure state, unmixed with other flavors, the price obtained for it is so high that the tariff duty does not interfere with its sale in New York. However, much of it is mixed with honey from other sources, or perhaps is not properly handled, hence it does not cut much of a figure in the honey markets of the world at present. Probably the bulk of it goes to Humburg, Germany, and Antwerp, while Jamaica ships her output mostly to London. The principal exporting countries of logwood honey are San Domingo, Huiti, Honduras, and Jamaica.
**MANIPULATING FRAMES.**
See FRAME, How to Manipulate; also Reverasing.
**MANGROVE** (_Aveizenna Nitidae_). On the list of honey-producing plants and trees of Southern Florida the black mangrove stands at the head. Whether or not this is a true mangrove seems an open question among goodauthorities. The tree has the appearance and characteristics of lignin vite, and is said to be of that family. It is an evergreen, designed by nature to follow the red mangrove (not a honey-produced) in the building up of land along tropical and semi-tropical tide waters. For this purpose it is provided with a great number of slender spicules that grow straight up from all parts of the root system to the height of a foot or more above ground, that catch and hold debris and mud washed there at high tide.
The tree, which often resembles that of the apple in form, varies in size from a mere bush at its northern limit, just above the 20th parallel, to a monarch live to seven feet in diameter of trunk on the banks of the lower Indian River and along the coasts of all tropic seas. The bark is of a dark color, the leaves thick, of a dark glossy green above, lighter beneath, and oval in outline, with smooth edges that turn slightly toward the under side. The blossons are small white four-petaled flowers growing in clusters of from 10 to 30 at the extremity of three inch-long flower-stems that terminate the extremity of each twig. These flowers, in bloom from about June 15 to August 1, where growth is fairly plentiful, often show large drops of nectar all day long within easy range of large apiaries. In fact, it seems almost impossible to overstock a good range of this tree at that time, and the crop rarely fails, yet some failures have been experienced, which appears the more remarkable when it is known that the roots of this tree are mostly under water twice a day, at high tide--a fact which would seem to preclude the possibility of its suffering from drouth.
In 1895 and 1899 the mangrove met with serious disaster from cold through fifty miles south from its northern limit, where it seems more prolific and constant in its secretion of nectar than further south; but it rapidly recovered, and soon gave full crops as of old. In 1894, the season before the big freeze, 201 tons of extracted honey was secured in one apiary of 116 colonies, at least 15 tons of it being from the black mangrove. Of 20 tons taken within a range of 15 miles of the same year, at least 130 tons was from this source, gathered from a narrow strip along the coast rivers.
Pure mangrove honey is white, clearer than that from white clover, and of a light pleasant flavor without any "'minty twang," It is not of as heavy body, however, and inclined to ferment if not thoroughly cured and then carefully sealed from moisture.
Mangrove.
In the form of comb honey it is as handsome as the world produces, but must be kept in a dry warm room to prevent sweating and blistering when cool weather comes.
Its quality has been very highly extrolled by Messrs. Langstroth, Hasty, Ch. F. Muth, and others, who have classed it as one of the three table boneys of America.
MangroveD. (_Gailardie pulcheller_). This is found all over the United States, but, so far as we know, it does not yield any great amount of honey except in Texas, where it is considered one of the main honey-producing plants. It begins to yield in May or June, giving a rich golden honey. While it is praised greatly by many connoisseurs in the South, it would not rank well with clover and basswood of the North. The comb honey is golden yellow, not white.
one usually referred to by bee-keepers. The others are probably equally good for honey.
**Migratory Bee-keeping.** Experience has shown that the secretion of nectar in a given locality varies sometimes, even within a distance of only a few miles. For example, it will happen that the home-yard bees will be gathering no honey when an outward eight or ten miles away will be serving a fairly good crop. This is due to the fact that the character of and moisture in the soil, makes possible the growth of some plants that will not take root in other locations only a few miles away. For example, a bee-yard may be situated in a valley close to a stream, along which there will be a heavy growth of honey-yielding plants. Within a few miles from there, perhaps on higher ground, and soil less productive, there will be nothing.
Sometimes we find conditions like this--in one locality a large amount of luekwheat will be grown; ten miles away from there, there will be none whatever. The same is true of red clover, alsike, and a number of other artificial-pasturage crops.
Again, it will happen that in one year when there is an excess of rainfall the loca tion in the valley will be too wet for the proper growth of plants yielding nectar, while on the higher ground, a few miles away, conditions will be just right for a fine flow of honey.
The knowledge of these varying conditions in localities only a few miles apart has led some bee-keepers to practice what is known as migratory bee-keeping. For example, in one yard it is evident that bees are not getting any honey, and there is no flora of any sort that gives any promise of any. On the other hand, there is another yard that is doing well, and there are still other locations without bees where there are immense quantities of alsike or red clover, or of buckwheat. Evidently it is a part of wisdom and business sense to move the yard that is yielding no returns to the location in which the honey can be secured.
While migratory bee-keeping is not practiced to any considerable extent in this country, largely because of the expense of moving, yet there are some sections in the country that make the practice exceedingly profitable. In Germany migratory bee-keeping is carried on somewhat more extensively than in this country, and occasionally we hear reports of a whole bee-yard being put on an immense raft on a river. This raft is secured near the shore, and when the honey crop is taken the raft is let loose, when the raft,bees and all, are towed to pastures new. These floating apiaries have never been much of a success. Too many bees appear to drop in the water and drown. Mr. C. O. Terrine, many years ago, tried out this experiment on the Mississippi River, but the experiment was a financial failure.
**MILIKWEED** (_Aschelepius Coruti_).: This plant is celebrated, not for the honey it produces, although it doubtless furnishes a good supply, but for its queer winged masses of pollen which attach themselves to the bee's feet, and cause it to become a cripple, if not to lose its life. Every fall we have many injuries from new subscribers in regard to this queer phenomenon. Some think it a parasite, others a protuberance growing on the bee's foot, and others a winged insect-enemy of the bee. We give here an engraving of the curiosity, magnified at \(a,\)and also of a mass of them attached to the foot of a bee.
It is the same that Prof. Riley alluded to when he recommended that the milkweed be planted to kill off bees when they become troublesome to the fruit-grower. The folly of such advice--think of the labor and expense of starting a plantation of useless weeds just to entrap honey-bees--becomes more apparent when we learn that it is perhaps only the old and enfeebled bees that are unable to free themselves from these appendages, and hence the milkweed can scarcely be called an enemy. The appendages, it will be observed, look like a pair of wings, and they attach themselves to the bee by a glutinous matter which quickly hardens, so that it is quite difficult to remove if not done when first attached.
**MOVING BESS.** Young bees, when they first start out, or old ones on the first flight of the season after a winter's confinement, hover in the air, about the hive-entrance, take a careful survey of surroundings, making wider and wider circles, each time taking in new objects by which they may familiarize themselves with the home. When the location is once carefully marked they will go back and forth without taking any note of distinguishing objects. But when the hive is moved only a few feet there is apparent consternation and confusion.
One can not, therefore, move his bees a few feet or a quarter of a mile without having the great majority of them go back to the old spot unless treated by the plans we shall describe. They would perish, or possibly get into some other hive near their old location, with the result that there would be a fight, and many bees killed.
If one desires to move his bees, and wishes to take them at least a mile and a half or two miles away, the problem is quite easy; for then they will stay wherever they are placed. As soon as they are liberated in their new position they will mark the location as thoroughly and carefully as when taking their first flight. After that they will go to and from the same spot as if it had always been their home.
But to move our bees from the front to the back yard, or, we will say, from a fourth to half a mile, is not so easy. They are familiar with the whole range of flight within a mile of the old stand; and when they go over their old hunting-ground, so to speak, is each of returning to the hive from which they have just come they will return to the old location. How, then, shall we make them stay where placed? One way, and the very best one, is to wait till fall or winter. After they have quit flying for the season, move them to the spot desired. If they are confined for several weeks by cold weather, or longer, they will mark their new location and go back to it as their regular and permanent home. It will be better still if they can be confined for several months in the cellar; then when they are put out again in the spring, place them in the new location; for it is well known that cellared bees can be placed anywhere the following spring without reference to their old stands. Wherever they are placed they will mark their location, and that must be their fixed position for the season.
But suppose it is the milst of summer, and for some reason the bees must be moved a few rods from their old location. Perhaps complaint is made that the bees in the frontyard are interfering with passersby, and to avoid trouble it seems desirable to move them to the back yard. In au emergency of this kind the following plan may be used :
Tack wire cloth over the entrances, carry the hives down cellar, and keep them there for at least five days, and longer if they appear to be quiet. While the bees are in the cellar, change the surroundings in the frontyard or in the old location as much as possible. After the bees have served out their allotted time of confinement, put them in the back yard in the same order as before if it can be done conveniently. While some of the bees may, perhaps, go back, the great majority will stay in their new location. Those that doreturn should be given a frame of brood in a hive ; and when they have clustered on it take them to the new location and dump in front of the entrance to the hive. If the bees are c defined during cool or rainy weather, when they can not fly, there will be no loss of honey that might possibly be gathered from the field; but while the bees are confined in the cellar, keep a watch on them to see that they do not suffocate; and, if practieable, cover the whole top of the hive with wire screen.
In cool weather it is not necessary to put the bees in the cellar; but after the wire cloth is tacked on at the entrance the hive may be moved immediately to its new location. The bees should be kept confined at least five days, or as long as they are apparently quiet. If they crowd around the entrance so as to cause suffoection they should be released at once. But do not think of confining a strong colony in warm weather without putting it in the cellar where it is cool, and giving it plenty of ventilation.
Ordinarily, weak nuclei can be readily moved from one location to another without danger of suffoaction. As explained under the 1 real of Nuclei, further on, we always make it a practice to confine the bees for at least three days. At the end of that time they are usually content to stay in their new location without returning to the old spot. This plan is not to be used if it be at all practicable to leave the bees till full or winter.
There is still another method; and wherever it is practicable to carry it out we would recommend it in preference to carry them into the cellar; that is, move the bees to a point a mile and a half or two miles from the old location. Let then stay there two or three weeks, then move them back. But this involves considerable labor, so that the average person would not think it practicable.
There is danger that bees confined in the cellar, and then released, may go back to the old location. This is especially true of black bees; and it becomes, therefore, advisable to do all short-distance moving in the winter. As a general thing we would advise against moving full colonies short distances in mid-summer; but in case of necessity or emergency they may be confined in the cellar as explained.
How to move bees a distance of several miles.
The remarks that have been made heretofore apply to moving bees only a short distance; but when they are to be carried a considerable distance, and jolted over rough roads, the bees require more ventilation than can usually be afforded by an ordinary entrance. If they are shut up during the middle of the day, those in the field are liable to be lost. Ordinarily they should be confined at night or in the early morning - better at night.
If you wish to move bees during the day time, while many are in the fields, you can get them nearly all in by smoking them at intervals for about half an hour. This will give those that are out time to come in, and the smoking will prevent any more go out. If the colony is very strong, leave a alive with a comb of brood on the old stand, and the owner can start a nucleus very conveniently with the returning bees.
Most bee beegers fasten the bottoms to their hives permanently, so all that is necessary in such cases is to secure the cover and put a wire-cloth screen over the entrance. A very good plan is shown in the next engraving, consisting of two cords or ropes.
One rope is drawn around as tight as possible at one end, and the other is put on the other end. The cords are then drawn together at the top in such a way as to produce a strong tension.
Another plan, somewhat similar, is to use one cord or rope. It is drawn around the hive, and tied loosely. A stick is then slipped into the cord and given a half-twist in such a way as to draw the loop up very tight.
But by far the most satisfactory plan, certainly the sifest, and the one that we adopt the rear will be sufficient to hold the bottom-board. For the cover there should be four staples--two on each side.The staples are very easily removed with a sereworriver
ourney there is very little fear of their flying out.
For closing the entrance nothing is simpler and better than a plain strip of wire cloth as long as the inside length of the entrance and two or three inches wide. This is bent at right angles lengthwise, and then pushed in the entrance, in the manner shown, so that it wedges fast. On arrival at destination the wire cloth can be quickly jerked out.
In moving our bees to outwards we generally use a two-horse-team with an ordinary hay-rack. Hives with bees are put on the bottom; those on top are only empties. One should take along a quantity of rope, a hammer, tacks, screwdriver, and a lighted smoker. Be sure it does not go out on the road. A little smoke at _just the right time_ may save the lives of valuable horses, a whole load of bees, and possibly the life of the l.e-keeper and of the driver as well While on the route, be sure to give the smoker a "-" shift " or two to make sure it is still going. We would also carry along a pull of water and a big sponge. If any of the colonies seem to be suffering from lack of ventilation, dash a little water over the wire screen. As a general thing,avoid moving bees by day during very warm weather, Do it at night, when the atmosphere is a little cooler.
shipping bees long distances by express.
During hot weather great care should be exercised that the bees be not smothered, nor their combs melted down by the intense heat that is generated where they have an insufficient quantity of air during shipment-moved. The cover should be secured about two inches above the wire cloth so it will act as a shade-board for the bees in case the hive should be put in the sun. The cover so placed may be the means of saving the lives of the bees.
To secure the frames so that they will not show about, we use a notehed stick, as shown at \(\Lambda\,\Lambda\), of the accompanying cut, the notches passing down between the frames just over the rablet in the hive.
A couple of wire nails hold it secure. A similar notched stick is mailed to the bottom-board, notches upward, transversely through the center. This keeps the bottoms of the frames from jarring against each other. After the wire cloth has been tacked to the entrance, the combs put in the hive and
secured by the notched sticks, the wire screen screwed down, the whole arrangement is ready for shipment.
Of course, if your bees are on fixed frames --thatis,either the Ioffman ortheclosed-end, referred to and described under Frames, Manipulating ; Frames, Self-spacing, nootched spacing-strips will be necessary, the frames being already fastened for moving or shipping; and the beauty of it is, no time need be lost in preparing them for that purpose.
## Moving Bees
It is almost absolutely necessary that the combs themselves be wired, or at least that they be old, tough, and securely attached to the bottom-bar if not wired. It is always risky, however, to ship in combs not wired, because it is impossible to tell what sort of rough usage they will receive at the hands of careless or indifferent express agents; and while we should not be too hasty in condemning railroad officials for careless handling, we should take every precaution. The bees huzzing around the wire cloth is usually enough to guarantee safe handling.
Quite an extensive business is carried on in shipping bees in one, two, three, and four frame nuclei. The illustration, p. 310, shows a light shipping-box, the sides and top of which are made of good strong lumber only \(
rac{3}{6}\) inch thick. The ends are \(
rac{1}{2}\). The bottom is covered with wire cloth, then two cleats are nailed across-the ends to raise the nucleus off the floor. For the sake of convenience the wire cloth is secured on the special cover shown above, which, when set down in place, leaves a space of an inch between the cover proper and the wire cloth. The thin board over the wire cloth protects it from the direct rays of the sun, and from sharp projections of any object. It also affords a convenient place to attach the address, and to put on the caution,"With Great Care."