BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
Honey is collected and not made by the bees. During the transfer from the flowers to the hive, "nectar" as it is called before gathered,undergoes a slight change in the honey stomach by the action of the bees' saliva, and is called honey when stored in cells. The color, aroma and flavor varies according to the variety of plants from which it is obtained. Color ranges from water white to dark brown or black in some cases. Its consistency depends upon its water content which is controlled largely by the season of production, atmospheric conditions, soil moisture and variety of plants from which produced. It often contains as high as 90 percent water, especially that produced from white clover is sometimes so thin when first gathered that it drops from the comb when handled by the apiarist. Honey remains in this state a comparatively short time, then passes through a process that is popularly known as ripening; which however, is merely a reduction of the water content by evaporation. Evaporation, or driving off the excess moisture, is done by the normal warmth of the hivo and a circulation of air through the hivo brought about by a fanning process with the wings. During a heavy honey flow, rows of bees may be seen facing the hivo along the entrance and often extending to the alighting board and even on the inside distributed over the combs, with their wings moving with such rapidity that they are invisible. Thts not only serves as an agency to assist evaporation but circulates pure air to the interior and regulates the temperature to the proper degree for brood development which remains rather uniform at approximately the same degree as that of human blood heat. The quantity produced from the different blossoms differs as well as the quality; likewise the flavor and color. As a rule those plants blooming early in the season produce the lightest colored honey, while those blooming during late summer and early autumn produce the darkest colors. Bees do not always confine their nectar gathering to flowers, but sometimes they gather a sweet substance known as honey dew, which is mainly produced by aphids or plant lice, although in some instances it is an exudation from the leaves of certain plants. This sweet is very poor in quality and not accepted as honey. Since the beekeeper cannot prevent the bees from gathering it during some seasons, the sale of it must be tolerated, but for manufacturing purposes only. Where any appreciable amount is stored, it should be removed from the hivo. Bees should never, if possible, be allowed to use it as food in wintering. The quantity of nectar gathered in one day may vary from a few ounces to twenty pounds or even more, but an amount of this gain will be lost through evaporation in the process of ripening. It has been demonstrated by a large number of apiarists that twenty-five to thirty percent of the weight of fresh honey disappears during the first day. When honey becomes sufficiently ripened, the bees seal or cap the cells with a thin covering of wax.
**POLLEN OR "BEE BREAD!"**
Bees do not visit flowers for nectar only, but for pollen which serves as part of the food for bees both in the developing and active periods. It is gathered upon the tiny bristles on the legs and body hairs, and during the flight from flower to flower, it is worked into a pellet, on the third pair of legs, to a peculiar structure, known as pollen basket. Bees returning to the hive during the working season are often conspicuous by the presence of the different colored pellets on their legs which varies in color according to the plant from which the pollen was obtained. Pollen is stored in the worker cells closely surrounding the brood. During the winter when the bees are inactive, they do not feed on pollen. At that time honey is only consumed. However, during the early spring when the queen becomes active in egg laying, brood rearing is begun, and pollen is required for larval food. If there is a scarcity, flour or fine meal may be used as a substitute. It should be supplied to the bees in open vessels on warm sunshiny days. The flour should be well packed with the hands into a lump so the bees will not smother in it. To attract the bees to the flour, a little old honey comb is recommended. In localities where maple, willow or hazel are common early supplies of pollen will be maintained. 1n gathering pollen, bees render a great aid to the horticultural in the fertilization of fruits. Not only to they spread pollen upon the blossom they visit, but in their flights from blossom to blossom, they bring about cross fertilization which is essential in bringing most varieties of fruits to greater frucification.
## PROPOLIS OR BEE GLUE.
Propolis is a resinous substance gathered by the bee from the buds and limbs of certain trees. In warm weather it is sticky and the bees apply it immediately to the purpose for which it was procured. It is used to stop the cracks in the hive, strengthen the junction of combs with the hive walls, reduce a too large entrance and to cover up obstacles that they are unable to remove from the hive, such as, dead mice, dead insects, chips of wood, etc. In the winter it becomes hard and brittle. It is brought to the hive in the pollen baskets, already mentioned. The amount of propolis gathered in a season depends directly upon the amount of nectar produced. If nectar is present in large quantities the quantity of propolis gathered will be small. If the season ls dry and a small amount of nectar available, a large amount of propolis will be gathered and the entire inner walls of the hive will be coated.
## WATER.
Bees use water in preparing the food given to the larva. In all seasons when brood is being reared and fresh nectar is not at hand, water is required. Water is usually carried to the hive during the earlier part of the day. Bees will search for available water supplies and unless some constant supply is near the aplary, they will travel some distance for it. It is best to see that the supply is near at hand, so the life of the bee is not endangered by long trips on cool spring days. A tub, or bucket with floating cork chips, or a long shallow trough receiving a constant supply from a barrel or
## Beginning an apiary.
Success is any occupation depends upon the amount of knowledge of the science upon which are founded the rules of that occupation. The objects of bekeeping is acquiring an accurate apprehension of all that pertains to the habits and instincts of bees, which make bekeeping a true science. ln order to secure both pleasure and profit, the 'individual must possess a certain amount of knowledge of the laws that govern the home life of the never tiring bee. Much of this knowledge can be secured through literature as there are many good books pertaining to bees as well as various journals devoted entirely to bekeeping. However, information concerning their behavior is beneficial, but this is only a small part of bekeeping. The real value of this lies in the practice secured through the actual handling and manipulation of a few colonies of bees.
## Who should keep bees.
The requirements of a successful apiarist are patience, neatness, foresight and presistence before discouragements. In order to enjoy the work of an apiary, the individual must learn to handle bees without fear. Persons with a nervous or timid temperment should never attempt to keep bees, because if they have a constant fear of being stung during their manipulation, their terror is very quickly realized by the bees. The care of a small apiary is especially adapted to furnish a recreation for men of sedentary profession; viz: ministers, lawyers, doctors, professors, teachers, bankers, bookkeepers and clerks. Instances are known where professional men have received larger incomes from the apiaries than the amount of the yearly salaries. Very little capital is required to begin as it is advisable to start on a small scale.
### Handling bees.
Handling bees with safety is not as difficult as the novice may imagine. They should be handled so that they will be disturbed as little as possible in their work. Stings should be avoided as much as possible during manipulations; not because of the pain to the operator, but because the odor of the poison diffused in the air irritates the bees in such manner as to make them more difficult to manage. It is recommended for this reason to wear a well that is bee proof and have a smoker lighted so as to produce a cool smoke when'needed. For the inexperienced operator, a pair of gloves can be worn, but ordinarily they are more of an inconvenelence than otherwise. To prevent bees from crawling up the sleeves or trouser legs, tie the sleeves and legs tightly about the hands and feet. If possible, avoid black and woolen clothing, especially a black felt hat.
The hive should not be jarred or disturbed more than necessary. Rapid or quick movements are objectionable, as the bees can perceive motion more readily than they can stationery objects, because of their peculiar eye structure. On approaching a hive, never strike at a bee, as this only invites trouble, and is likely to be followed by a sting. The best time tohandle bees is during the middle of the day when the majority of the field bees are absent from the hive. Never attempt to handle bees on cold damp days or at night, unless absolutely necessary.
## HIVE Manipulation.
It is advised that a beginner in beekeeping visit an experienced apiarist to get suggestions and ideas in handling bees. More can be learned in a one day visit with a professional beekeeper than can be acquired in hours of reading literature on apiculture. Each beekeeper has his own methods and short cuts obtained by personal experimentation and study of bee activity which in reality are essentials in practical bee culture. For those who do not have the opportunities to obtain hints and suggestions on the proper manipulation of a colony of bees from a seasoned beekeeper, apply the following directions.
Whenever working in the apiary the smoker should be lighted and the veil put in place before opening any hives. When the beekeeper desires to examine the interior of the hive it is best to direct a few puffs of smoke into the entrance before removing the cover. This drives back the guards and causes the bees to fill up with honey which renders them tractable. Next, step to the rear or side of the hive and gently raise the cover and blow a little smoke vigorously over the top of the frames, or if a mat is used, remove the cover entirely and lift one corner, directing the smoke over the frames as it is being removed. Never use more smoke than necessary to keep the bees down on the frames. If at any time during manipulation the bees show signs of excitement give them a little more smoke. After exposing the frames, carefully pry them loose with the hive tool and crowd them to one side in order to permit sufficient room for the removal of the first frame. Gently remove the frame and lean it against the hive so there will be more room inside for handling the remaining. It is essential to be careful in all manipulations not to crowd or crush any bees as it greatly irritates the colony and may make it necessary to discontinue operations. Furthermore the queen may be killed or injured in careless handling. Bees crawling on the hands may either be thrown or gently brushed off.
## Examining the Frame.
Always hold the frames over the hive as much as possible during examination so if any bees or the queen fall they would drop back into the hive. Likewise any honey dropping from the comb and falling into the hive is quickly removed while otherwise if dropped on the outside it is lost or may incite robbery. The frame on which the queen is found should never be taken out and placed against the hive as she may crawl away and be lost. Always lean the frame on the side farthest from the operator so as to prevent the bees from crawling up the legs.
In lifting the frame from the hive grasp each end with the hands and raise it straight up and out of the brood chamber or hive body and hold it in a vertical position with one side toward the operator.
To examine the reverse side, hold the one end stationary and raise the other to a perpendicular position and turn the frame on the top bar as an axis until reverse side is in view and then lower to a horizontal position with the top bar below. To bring the frame back to its original position reverse the operation. This method prevents all extra strain on the combs.
If self-spacing frames are used, the apiarist need not be as careful in replacing them as in replacing the plain ones in which case it is necessary to have them all spaced the same distance. Careful spacing is essential in preventing the bees from building combs of irregular thickness or brace combs from one frame to another.
## 6 STINGS and REMEDIES.
There are many remedies for bee stings recommended, but all are useless. The puncture is so small that it closes when the sting is removed and liquids cannot enter. Furthermore, the poison diffuses so rapidly that it enters the blood almost immediately. When stung, it is best to remove the sting as soon as possible without squeezing the poison sac. This can be done by using a knife or finger nail. Never rub or apply liniment to the wound, as it serves to increase the after-swelling.
## 7 LOCATION OF APIARY.
Any location is suitable unless a large number of bees are expected to be kept. The keeping of a few hives often on a city lot, on top of a city building, or roofs of porches, has been successful in many instances. Where beekeeping is a specialty, it is best to choose a location where fruit and flowers are abundant. The timbered territory in this State offers exceptional opportunities for apiary sites. There are many localities in West Virginia near rivers or streams where linden, sumac, maple, willow, sour gum, and other trees, shrubs and vines that yield pollen and nectar abound in great quantities. The apiary should always be near a dwelling or where bees can be heard or seen during the swarming season. Where bees are expected to be kept on a large scale, the selection of the apiary site should receive careful consideration. Aside from the general consideration of honey producing flora for bee forage, shelter from prevailing winds, distance from stock or pedestrians, and slightly sloping exposure to facilitate natural drainage for surface water, are important. The consideration of protection from direct sunlight in relation to no protection has been the subject of much discussion, but without proving the advantages of one over the other.. It has been demonstrated, however, that bees prosper best in the open with the hives having the protection of shade boards to prevent melting down of the combs, and bees clustering on the outside because of excessive heat. Bees located in the open, fly earlier and without doubt gather more nectar than those situated under trees. Shade that is too dense results in dampness which is to be avoided. An effort should be made to turn the entrances of the hives from the prevailing winds. Naturally, the apiary should face the rising sun or the south and only in rare instances toward the north or northwest. The matter of wind breaks deserves attention. Hedges, forests, orchards, as well as buildings, and tight high board fences, make excellent wind breaks. The old custom of constructing sheds opening on one side in which to keep bees, is discouraged. Such buildings still in use should be abandoned. The proper manipulation of the hives are hindered to such an extent that they are a detriment to the beekeeper and the bees. Hives arranged in groups set on brick or drain tile over-come dampness, and are more easily attended than if they were placed on high shelves or benches. The entrance should be at least an inch lower than the back part of the hive so as to prevent the accumulation of water at the rear of the bottom board. A piece of board placed in a slanting position from the entrance to the ground assists the heavily laden bees to the hive as they often fall before reaching the entrance. Grass and weeds should not be allowed to obstruct the entrance. The use of sand, gravel or cinders around and under the hives, will prevent the growth of grass and weeds; or a liberal quantity of salt along the front of the hive will assist in control of this matter. Pasturing the apiary with three or four sheep will keep the grass and weeds from reaching an obstructing growth.
## 5 Where and how to obtain bees.
Where no bees are at hand and an individual having no experience in the handling of them desires to begin an apiary, it is advisable that he purchase two or three strong colonies from some reliable breeder or dealer. If the individual has bees and wishes to increase the number of colonies in his apiary the same can be done through the purchase of bound packages in the spring of the year from southern bee breeders. It has been found through experience by many apiarists that returns from colonies started from pound packages have more than repaid them for the bees and labor the first season. Where bees are already at hand and the size of apiary is desired to be increased, the same may be brought about by artificial methods as explained under swarming.
Spring is the best time to transport or move bees from one locality to another. April is probably the best month because the combs contain the least amount of honey, and the colony is at its minimum in numbers. Bees in hives can be moved with ease by simply nailing the cover and bottom-board to the main body and closing up the entrance with ordinary wire window screen. Sufficient ventilation will be supplied through the wire cloth. If the weather is hot, it will be necessary to remove the top and bottom board and replace them with a frame fitted with wire cloth protected with slats which lessens the danger of having holes punched through it. Bees transported under such conditions should be protected from the direct rays of the sun. Where bees are transported short distances, less than two or three miles, there is danger of the old bees returning to their old stand. To avoid this, drum them so as to frighten them before releasing, and then it is well to place some obstruction in front of the entrance which causes the bees to notice the change in location at the first issue.
Bees have the habit of marking their location. In so doing they leave the hive and fly but a few inches and then turn their heads toward the entrance and fly back and forth gradually increasing the distance, taking a survey of the immediate surroundings and noticeable objects in the vicinity of the hive after which they return to the hive and start in a straight line from it. On returning they come directly to the hive and enter. So thoroughly is the location of the hive learned that if the entrance is moved a foot they are likely to miss their landing on the return from their first trip.
## KIND of Bees to Buy.
Some prefer to purchase ordinary bees regardless of the race in any ordinary type of hive and then transfer them to a movable frame hive in order to gain experience. In some cases this is justifiable but there are many things to be taken into consideration. Often times through the process of transferring, the queen may be injured or killed and resultingly the colony dies. Diseases may be present. Combs may be old and crooked, and direct transfer to a movable frame hive is impossible as well as impracticable. In purchasing bees in box hives it is well to examine the hive carefully by inclining it to one side or inverting it and looking between the combs. If there is an abundance of capped brood, young larvae and bees, it may be considered in
Figure 6. A Good Start But Poor Housing. Bees Should be kept in Only Modern. Hives.
good condition. Colonies having numerous bees flying in and out on a warm day in the spring, and if it appears that many bees are returning with pollen on their legs, they may be considered safely good to buy.
Many times swarms of bees can be purchased from a neighbor 'beekeeper during the swarming season. Where this is possible the first swarm cast is desired. After the swarm is well established it is best to remove the queen and introduce another, thus lessening the risk of loss through an old queen which has lost her vigor and prolificacy.
## 11 EQUIPMENT AND ITS VALUE.
It cannot be emphasized too strongly that bees can only be keep profitably in movable frame hives. Likewise the use of full sheets of foundation in the frames causes the bees to build straight combs, making it very easy to manipulate or interchange them whenever the beekeeper desires. The keeping of bees in boxes, hollow logs or barrels, is not profitable and in many cases a menace to the progressive beekeeper, especially where brood diseases are prevalent.
## 12 WORKSHOP.
It is usually desirable, especially where an apiary is of any size to have a workshop, or honey house as commonly called by beekeepers, where the supplies may be prepared and stored, as well as caring for the honey crop. Where the apiary site is not level it is recommended that the building be placed at the lowest part of the site so as to facilitate the carrying of heavy loads down grade. The building need not necessarily be very expensive, the only necessary features about the construction is to have it bee and mouse proof. The latter can be easily done with the use of a concrete floor. To prevent the entrance of bees the windows and doors should be well screened with wire cloth. This should be placed on the outside of the windows extending about six inches above the opening. To provide exit for bees which accidently get in the house, the upper boards should be held away from the frame with narrow wooden strips about a quarter of an inch thick. Bees will not enter at the openings. However, any that are likely to be carried in the house will fly at once to the windows and crawl upward, soon clearing the house of all bees. The arrangement of windows should be such that the sash may be slid entirely away from the openings to prevent bees from being imprisoned. The arrangement of benches and racks for tools, supplies and surplus comb can be made to suit the tastes of the owner.
### 12 HIVES.
The type of hive recommended for use in this state is a movable frame hive--the principal of which was invented by Rev. L. L. Langstroth. The hive body proper consists of plain wooden box holding frames hanging from a rabbet at the top and not touching the sides, top or bottom. Hives of this type are constructed so as to hold eight, ten or more frames. The ten framed hive with standard equipment is recommended for use in West Virginia. The frame considered as standard and in general use is the metal spaced Hoffmanframe (9% x 17%). One of the outstanding features of this type of hive is the size of spaces between the frames, side walls and supers which are of sufficient size to allow easy passage of bees. In a space of this size bees will rarely build comb or deposit propolisis. In selecting hives, it is important that the materials be of the best, all parts accurately made so that all hives and hive parts are interchangeable. All hives and hive parts should be of the same style and size and as simple as it is possible to make them, so as to facilitate operations. As a rule it is best to buy hives and frames from a manufacturer of bee supplies rather than make them, unless one is an expert wood-worker. Even then, it is best to buy the frames as they can be purchased at a lower rate than the amount of labor and materials would cost in home manufacture.
Hives should always be painted to protect them from the weather. Experience has proven that in order to prevent excessive heat absorption by the colony. in hot weather, the light colors are the most satisfactory. Avoid red or black in all instances.
## 0.10 Details of a 10 Frame Langstroth Hive.
The modern movable frame hive is made up of the following parts. Bottom board, brood chamber or hive body, containing ten frames; super or storage room either of same dimentions as the brood chamber for extracting, or have the height for comb honey sections of shallow extracting frames.