BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
If any colonies are weak they should be strengthened by giving a frame or two at broad and bees from a strong colony, being careful not to give them the queen; and if suffering from lack of food they should be fed a thick spring made of equal parts hot water and good granulated sugar; make without cooking.
For this purpose there are many feeders, but nothing is better than an ordinary Mason glass frinit-agar with a number of small holes;unched in the metal cap, and when the jar is filled it is given to the colony in an extra hive body that is placed on top of the broad body for that purpose.
First saw a piece of board just the size of the outside dimensions of the hive body, and in the center of this heated out a hole big enough to insert the cap of the jar, the jar having first been filled and cap and rubber land screwed accordingly on, and lifting the hive lid from its plase, put the piece of board referred to over the fined best with the filled jar in the hole. Then place over this an extra body, and inside of this body pack some old clothes or bags to conserve the warmish of the colony--and the trick is done: the bees will soon carry the feed below. I have used all kinds of patent feeders, but have found nothing to equal this.
In a couple of days the bees will have carried all the symp below and have stored it in their combs; if they need more, fill the jar for them again (if a two-mart jar is used, more syrup can be given them at a time).
It is the practise of some beekpers to resort to stimulative feeding in the spring; that is, to give the colony a little syrup every day for a number of days preceding the honey flow, as it needs to make the bees rear brood earlier and in larger numbers than they otherwise would, and thus have the colonies strong for the honey flow. For this purpose nothing is better than the feeder already referred to.
If the bees have been wintered on their stands outdoors with proper protective packing, it will be best not to remove the packing until settled warm weather makes it safe.
If the bees have been wintered indorsors in a cell, they should not be brought out until winter weather is entirely over. Then when they are brought out, every live should be given some added protection for some time or until settled warm weather, as this will overcome the possibility of the colony beingtilled by the change of atmosphere from the cellar to the outdoor air.
Many beekpers when placing their bees outdoors immediately wrap the hive with some kind of waterproof building-paper, being careful not to close the hive entrance, and in almost every case it proves effective and prevents spring dwindling, --the bane of the old-time beekeeper.
Be sure to remember the foregoing point, for it is important and one of the fundamentals, and its neglect will surely lead to failure.
The first work among the bees in spring should be short and simply for the purpose of finding out the condition of the colony--whether dead, queentless or short of stores--and should not be necessellly prolonged. As the weather gets warmer and more settled, other necessary work among them can be done.
Transmission.Early spring is the best time to transfer to modern hives, bees that have been bought in old bows lives; for at that season the brood next is not large and little honey is present, so that it is an easy matter to drive the bees from their combs; and by cutting their combs to the proper shape they can be fitted in frames and held in place with rubber bands until the bees can listen them securely, which they will do in a couple of them securely, which they will do in a couple of them securely.
There are various ways of transferring bees from their old bows lives to those with movable frames.
Another good way to transfer is to take the old bows live just about swarming time and bore two or three holes in its top and place over it a modern hive with family of cell foundation in it; in a few days the bees will go up into it; and as soon as the queen gets to laying well the bees will carry up the honey from site old live and when the brood is hatched the old bive can be taken away and its old bomes melted into wax. The sure, however, to stop up every crack around where the new hive fits over the old one. The transfer is accomplished without missing with honey, brood, etc.
When I say to have the new frames filled with sheets of foundation, I mean the sheets of bees- was that are sold by supply houses, which sheets have been run through rollers and have had stampedon them the beginning of worker cells. There are other methods of transferring, but the two given are the best, especially the latter method.
Inverse, How to Make, in the Spring.--There are several ways to increase the number of colonies in the spring, but as this book aims to give only the cream I will describe the best two methods in vogue and give what experience has demonstrated to be the best.
One method of increase is accomplished by simply dividing the colony, which enables one to double the number of colonies in the apariy; it carefully done this may in many instances also result in a crop of honey as well, but if rapid increases is carried on no surplus will be produced, as the colonies divided are not sufficiently strong to build up in time for the honey flow,--but what is lost that year in honey is many times made up in added colonies. You can not make bases and honey at the same time. if the increase is very large.
To increase by simple division, take a strong colony of bees and lift from a ten-frame colony six or even seven of its frames of sealed-up brood and queen and place in a new live and carry to a new stand; put in front of the entrance a slanting board so that the bees will mark their new location. The reason I give the queen and most of the bees and sealed brood to the division that is moved, is because many of the bees will return to the old stand and thus make the division about equal, while the possession of the queen by the colony that is moved will keep the bees from deserting it completely.
The original live containing the three frames of bees and unscaled brood is left on its stand, and, from the frames of brood, will rear another queen, --provided there are eggs in the frames, which should always be the case.
Then place in the live that was moved, also in the one that was left on its original stand, frames of full foundation to fill them out, and the thing is done. If the division is made in the early part of May, both colonies will, if the season is good, produce a surplus and go into winter quarters with good strong stocks.
Whether the increase be made by one division, or many (as will be explained), great care should be used and no increase started much later than June, for if it is, there is danger that the colonies will not build up in time for winter, which is special-by the case if the increase is rapid.
I have known of instances where one division of the colony has been made as late as August and both colonies did well, but there was a good big late flow from backwheard and fall bloom, which made it possible; for the average beckeeper I say, make your increase early.
When it comes to the matter of rapid increase I should advise the beginner to go carefully, for unless it is backed by experience it will result in failure; but in the hands of one who understands the bees it is perfectly safe.
The following is the method that I have practised for years, and though as many as four hundred nuclei, or small colonies, have been started, it has proved to be successful in almost every case.
Sometimes it will happen that after a large number of these nuclei have gotten under way, the honey flow will cease; in which case it will be necessary to feed them for some time, even a month, giving, say, one-half unit of syrup each day, or as much as they will take up over night. For this purpose there is no better feeder than the one before referred to.
I might add that the supply dealer can supply you with the Mason jar caps with perforations that have been stamped in them by dies, and the jars themselves can be taken from the pantry or purchased at any store.
Select a strong ten or eight-frame colony, and toward evening (say 4 or 5 P: M.) open it, lift out two frames of bees and brood, and place them in an empty hive; then fill the hive out with new frames of climb, or it combs are not on hand, with frames of full foundation. Take two other frames and place in another hive, and so on until from the ten-frame colony you have made five small ones, being sure to see that each colony has if possible some young brood from which to rear a queen. The old queen will of course be in one of the divisions and that will not need any other.
Take each hive so started and move it to the stand it is to occupy, and completely close the entrance with a strip of wood, with a half-inch hole bored in, which close with a cork; the bees are not strong enough in numbers to suffocate. Leave them imprisoned for three days; at the end of which time, draw the cork from the entrance block, which will allow one bee to pass out at a time (and don't forget a slaning board at the entrance).
Watch them carefully, and be sure that they start a queen cell, and if they don't, give them one that has been built in a strong colony whose queen has been caged to make them start, in which case you will get a larger and better queen, and when mated she will begin to lay.
A better way, however, is to have on hand at the time of division a number of queens that have been reared or purchased for the purpose, and when the division is made fill the smoker with tobacco and send a few good puffs down over each little colony and then puff some on the queen to be introduced; drop from between the frames and close the site, and in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred she will be accepted at once. The tobacco smoke gives both the bees and the queen the same odor, so that there is nothing about her to indicate that she does not belong to them, and it prevents the possibility of her being recognized as a strange queen and being balled and killed.
Some beekevers practise feeling half a teacuplof of syrup to these small nuclei, right from the beginning. This is not really necessary if there is a steady flow from the fields, but upon its first sign of cessation begin feeding at once; and to avoid robbing among the bees; give the feed late in the afternoon or early evening, when the bees are not flying.
After each increase has marked its new location, the slanting boards can be removed.
Every few days took at the nuclei, and if increasing in strength, take one of the frames of foundation and slip it between the two frames of combs and brood, being careful not to repeat the operation faster than the bees can draw it out and cover it, and in this way every frame will soon be filled with nice worker combs; by fall each of the small nuclei will have built up to a strong colony.
## Appendix A Swarms and Swarming
_A swarm is the five \(i\) world free on the free -_Vineent.
A great deal has been written on this phase of bekeeping, much that is both nonsensical and confusing: and it is not my purpose to add to the confusion, but rather to give a few simple instructions as to detecting signs of swarming and methods for controlling it.
It must be remembered that swarming is a perfectly natural act on the part of a colony, and is brought about by conditions that prevail at certain seasons of the year. May and June are the principal months during which swarms emerge, though they often come out at other times.
He who depends upon natural swarming for his increase will make a mistake, for in the majority of cases natural swarming will about make up for winter losses, and no more.
During the early part of May much honey is being gathered by the bees and the brood nest is consequently crowded for room. It is this condition that induces the old queen and a large part of the colony to swarm out in quest of more commodous quarters.
Sometimes the colony will give notice of its intention to swarm, by the bees clustering on the front of the five, though this is not an infallible sign, as bees will do this at other times when the swarming impulse is farthest from them.
The surest way of determining the matter is
## Appendix A Swarning
_A swarning in the fibre is worth true on the free-Vineent._
A great deal has been written on this phase of bekeeping, much that is both nonsensical and confusing; and it is not my purpose to add to the confusion, but rather to give a few simple instructions as to detecting signs of swimming and methods for controlling it.
It must be remembered that swarming is a perfectly natural set on the part of a colony, and is brought about by conditions that prevail at certain seasons of the year. May and June are the principal months during which swarms emerge, though they often come out at other times.
He who depends upon natural swarming for his increases will make a mistake, for the majority of cases natural swarming will shout make up for winner losses, and we more.
During the early part of May much honey is being gathered by the bees and the broad nest is consequently crowded for room. It is this condition that induces the old queen and a large part of the colony to swarm out in quest of more commodous quarters.
Sometimes the colony will give notice of its intention to swarm, by the bees clustering on the front of the hive, though this is not an infallible sign, as bees will do this at other times when the swarming impulse is farthest from them.
The surest way of determining the matter isby an examination of the brood nest, which will usually be found to be in a crowded condition, the cells filled with honey, pollen and brood, and queen cells started on a number of frames. When these signs are present, prepare for a swarm almost any day, usually between the hours of 9 A. M. to 3 P. \(\Delta\).
When once the swarming fever has reached its highest point, and thoroughly infected the mass, they come tumbling out of the hive like had and whirl around in the air, their buzing being heard at even a considerable distance. This they will continue to do for a few minutes as we h ne, joined by their queen, they will generally settle on the branch of a tree or lush, awaiting the rear of their scents who have been looking for a home in the heart of some tree or under the chemotaxis of a house, to which on their return the scents will exert the swarm. For this reason the swarm had better be lived at once, and the method is hould simple and easy.
Sometimes the swarm will cluster in the top of a tall tree or other inaccessible place, and the bekeeper will have to use his visits to meet the condition that will arise. Sometimes a ladder can be used to reach them, and by saving off the branch or part of it on which they have clustered they can be brought to the ground and shaken in front of an empty live that has frames with either starters or full sheets of foundation in them. Usually they will enter the hive, and all trouble is over.
When swarming, bees can generally be handled without either evil or gloves, as they seldom sting at this time; due to the fact that they filled up with honey before swarming, which has so distended their abdomens that they can not contract themselves to siting.
With the swarm has gone the working force of the colony, and for this reason it is best to take all surplus tops in which they had been working or storing honey and place same on the hive which the swarm has entered; experience teaches that the hive out of which the swarm emerged will seldom produce any more surplus, for by the time the brood therein has hatched and become field bees, the honey flow will be about over.
Sometimes the hive that cast the swarm will, upon the hatching of the queen cells that were left in it, cast another swarm known as an "after swarm," but as cheese are small and undesirable it is best to prevent them by cutting out all queen cells but the best one in each hive, thus thwarting this possibility. See, however, in a few days to see that this cell has hatched and that the queen is laying, for if for any reason it should fail to hatch, the colony is without the means to rear one, as the old queen has been gone so many days that there are no eggs sufficiently young for this purpose.
Some bekeepers early in the season see that all quencils in the yard have their wings clipped, and so when the swarm comes out the queen, unable by an examination of the brood nest, which will usually be found to be in a crowded condition, the cells filled with honey, pollen and brood, and queen cells started on a number of frames. When these signs are present, prepare for a swarm almost any day, usually between the hours of \(9\), \(\Lambda\), M, to \(3\) P. M.
When once the swarming fever has reached its highest point, and thoroughly infected the mass, they come tumbling out of the hive like mad and swirl around in the air, their bizzing being heard at even a considerable distance. This they will continue to do for a few minutes to be in., when they lived by their queen, they will generally settle the branch of the horseshoe or lenth.
Something like that cast the swarm with growing the horseshoe or lenth is, at least one of their events, has been looking for it in the heart of some free or under the chape lengths of a horses, to which one filter them the counts will convert the swarm. For this reason the swarm lost later in level at once, and the methanol is lenth simple and goes.
Something the swarm will cluster in the top of a tall tree or other inaccessible place, and the besterget will cluster to use his waist to meet the condition that will arise. Sometimes a ladder can be used to reach them, and by saving off-the branch of part it in which they have clustered they can be brought to the ground and shaken in front of an empty live that has rimms with either starter- or full sheets of information in them. Usually they will enter the hive, and all roundle is over.
When swarming, bees can generally be handled without either evil or elboses, as they column sting at this time; due to the fact that they filled up with honey before swarming, which has so distended their adchains that they can not contract themselves to time.
With the swarm has gone the working force of the colony, and for this reason it is best to take all surplus tops in which they had been working or storing honey and place some on the hive which the swarm has entered; experience teaches that the hive not of which the swarm emerged will seldom produce any more surplus, for by the time the broad therein lies hatched and become filled, faces, the honey flow will be absent over.
Something like that cast the swarm with growing the horseshoe or lenth inherits of the queen cells that were left in it, cast another swarm known as an "alter swarm" has an obese are small and undesirable it is best to prevent them by cutting out all queen cells that the best one in each hive, thus thirsuring this possibility. The same, however, in a few days to use that tile cells has hatched and that the queen is laying for it for any reason it should fail to hide, the colony is without the means to rear once, as the old then become gone so many days that there are no eggs sufficiently young for this purpose.
Some beekeppers early in the session see that all queens in the yard have their wings clipped, and so when the swarm comes out the queen, unable by an examination of the brood nest, which will usually be found to be in a crowded condition, the cells filled with honey, pollen and brood, and queen cells started on a number of irranes. When these signs are present, prepare for a swarm almost any day, usually between the hours of \(9\) A, M, to \(3\) P. M.
When once the swarming lever has reached its highest point, and thoroughly infected the mass, they come tumbling out of the hike \(\mathrm{m}\) and whirl around in the air, their buzing being heard at even a considerable distance. This they will continue to do for a few minutes \(\mathrm{u}\,\mathrm{e}\,\mathrm{s}\), w.h.c., joined by their queen, they will generally settle on the branch of a tree or bush, awaiting the tree or bush, at \(\mathrm{u}\,\mathrm{r}\,\mathrm{s}\) of their scents who have been looking for a lione in the heart of some tree, or under the clump-boards of a house, to which on their return the south will exert the swarm. For this reason the swarm had letter be hired at once, and the method is both simple and easy.
Sometimes the swarm will cluster in the top of a tall tree or other inaccessible place, and the besteror will have to use his visits to meet the condition that will arise. Sometimes a ladder can be used to reach them, and by saving off the branch or part of it on which they have clustered they can be brought to the ground and shaken in front of an empty hive that has irrames with either starters or full sheets of foundation in them. Usually they will enter the hive, and all trouble is over.
When swarming, bees can generally be handled without either evil or gloves, as they seldom sting at this time; due to the fact that they filled up with honey before swarming, which has so distended their ablowens that they can not contract themselves to sting.
Sometimes the hive that cast the swarm will, upon the hatching of the queen cells that were left in it, cast another swarm known as an "after swarm", but as these are small and undesirable it is best to prevent them by cutting out all queen cells but the best one in each hive, thus thwarting this possibility. The sure, however, in a few days to see that this cell has hatched and that the queen is laying. If it or any reason it should fail to hatch, the colony is without the means to rear once, as the old queen has been gone so many days that there are no eggs sufficiently young for this purpose.
Some beekeepers early in the season see that all queens in the yard have their wings clipped, and so when the swarm comes out the queen, unable to join them in flight, is found hopping about in the grass in front of the hive and can be caged until wanted later.
No attention then need be paid to the swarm, for though they may go a mile from home and cluster on a tree, and a neighbor shake them into a hive, they are sure to return as soon as they discover that their queen is not with them, and for this return you should make ready.
After the swarm has gone, take the hive out of which it came and carry it to some other location if increase is desired, and in its place put on the old stand an empty hive with frames, founda-time, etc., and when the swarm returns it will immediately seek the old location and begin to enter the hive, the hive, the bees making a sound with their wings that is pleasant to hear. When about half of the bees have entered, the caged queen can be gently dropped upon the entrance board and she will quickly enter; and thus the swarm "hives itself," without a lot of worry and climbing on the part of its owner.
The clipped queen can be picked, up with naked fingers, she will not sting: but be careful not to injure her, as she is very tender and delicate at this time, being filled with eggs.
A pair of curved manicure-scissors are about the best thing with which to clip a queen's wings. It can be done at one clip, as she moves slowly over the combs, without even touching her with the hands or without fear of cutting off a leg as often happens when ordinary scissors are used.
Swarm Control, or How to Prevent Swarming. -I confises that I feel like the majority of beekers when I say that it causes me to pleasure to have my bocs swarm, and for this reason many methods and devices have been employed by me to prevent it.
The beekerer who has several out apariers is often worried with the thought that some of his bees remote from home may swarm and the swarm get away; as it hardly pays to keep a man on watch all the time; so there has been much discussion at the different bee conventions as to how to control swarming, for in rare instances only has it been entirely prevented. Sometimes in spite of all ever can do a swarm will occasionally come out, but we are able to keep it in bounds so that it ceases to be a nuisance.
Some of the things used to control swarming have to do with the hive used, while others have to do with its manipulation.