there are no queens confined in one hive body. Sometimes a queen may be in the upper body and never seems to find, the lower one at all. All I do is to reverse the bodies, putting her below, and she is sure to go up. I usually see that the queen is in the top body in the spring, as it is warmer, hence this last manipulation. The bees are not disturbed till nectar begins to come in rather freely from white clover, and if that misses out, till sweet clover. When nectar is coming in and the best colonies have the combs well covered with bees, I put the queen below with three or four frames of brood, put the excluder on, and the rest of the brood on top. At this point I am differing from many others, I know, as we heard here last year. It has been advised to put the queen below with only one frame of brood. I believe that to be more or less of a backset to the bees. There are not enough bees. on one frame to keep many bees downstairs where the queen is, and I am sure the queen curtails her laying till more are hatched and there are more young bees in the lower body. I have tried the one-comb method, with the result of losing part of the queens. I usually put below at least two frames of sealed brood and one frame of open brood. The bees are then left alone until they are working well in the supers. To get comb honey there must be a flow of at least three pounds per day--the more the better, but I have had a good crop with a flow that barely exceeded three pounds per day through the whole flow. When bees are going good in the supers I put on comb-honey supers. Previous to this time, at the time I put on exeluders, I mark the colonies in this way: the best colonies, those with the more prolific queens and the most bees, I marked No. 1; the next best I marked No. 2. When I am ready for supers I know just where to put them. I go to the No. 1 colonies and take off the top body. I take what brood there is there and put it below till the lower body is full of brood of some kind. If there is not enough I go to one of the colonies not marked at all and get some, but seldom have to do that. I usually leave one empty or partly empty comb for the queen to lay in immediately. Then I put on supers, usually two. If the flow does not look good and it seems to me as if it would not last long, I put on just one. Even if the flow is short and not very strong I can get one super filled. As a rule there are two, and in the bottom super there are either two side combs drawn out--I mean extracting combs--or there are one or more drawn combs in the sections. If that condition prevails the bees will occupy the sections almost at once, and in a short time the super is filled. Before the super is filled I transpose the two and put the lower one on top. If the bees are producing heavily I put another on at that time on top. The next visit I will shift the lower one on top if it is finished, as it usually is, and keep supering as the bees need it till the flow stops. Sometimes I will find bees working in one side of the super. That super is turied around so the side worked on is opposite from where it was, which induces them to begin the other side. The bees must be watched as closely as possible during the flow. I make the different yards about once a week. The hive bodies I take off the comb-honey colonies are given to the bees I did not mark at all; and as there is usually a little brood in them, I frequently put it right down in with their own brood if the colony looks as if it needed help. If honey is coming in strong and the No. 2 colonies possibly need room, I have extra supers for them right in the yard. One must use judgment in supering, as it is easy to overdo it and get a scattered lot of unfinished honey, or crowd them too much and not get the crop one should, and induce swarming.