BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
The utility of keeping the front of the body-box, also the inner walls, 1 in. above the bottom edges of the sides will now be apparent--the sides and back drop over the floor-board, breaking the joint, keeping the body-box in place, and rendering the provision of plinths unnecessary.
Although making the floor as detailed and illustrated entails a little extra work, the result is worth the pains, as it will be practically an impossibility for wet to drive in on to the main floor ; rain might penetrate to the sunk floor, but it could not pass the barrier raised by the higher back portion, consequently the floor would be always dry. Match-boarding might be used for the floor, wrought side downwards, but the presence of so many joints would give the bees a fine opportunity to daub the floor with propolis.
The lift n scarcely needs description. It is simply a lidless and bottomless box, in size, internally, \(\frac{1}{8}\) in. larger each way than the outside measurements of the body-box, over which it is required to telescope. Make sure that it is quite square, and put half a dozen 2-in. nails in each joint so that it will stand a fair amount of rough usage. Fix the fillets r \(\frac{1}{2}\) in. from either the top or bottom of the lift to form a stop upon which it may rest in either position upon the body-box, and also to break joint so as to exclude draughts and small vermin.
To make the roof, nail the gables s to the sides T, after having bevelled the upper edges of the latter to correspond with the slope given to the wings. In cutting out the gables there will be a certain waste of material if one pair only is required ; but where not less than three pairs are cut out at one time, they can be cut from an 11-in. board with very little waste, as shown by Fig. 23, the shaded portions representing the " waste."
On each side of the centre line of each gables
Figure 23: Cutting Beehive Roof Gables.
draw a line parallel thereto and distant \(\frac{1}{2}\) in. ; then temporarily tack on the wings v flush with one gable, and with a straightedge draw a line across both gable and wings, as shown by Fig. 24. Then set a bevel to the lines marked, and plane away the top edges of the wings as required. This done, permanently nail the wings in position, allowing them to project \(1\frac{1}{2}\) in. over each gable. Cut away the point of each gable level with the bevelled edges of the wings, and nail on the cover-board w, first coating its underside, also each bevel, with thick paint. Well nail each joint at 3-in. intervals, and clinch the nails inside, or screw the joints together from the underside; and if the roof covering is made of seasoned material and is kept painted, no wet will ever find its way inside the hive.
The rim of the roof should be \(\frac{1}{2}\) in. larger each way inside than the outer dimensions of the lift, and when the fillets r are tacked on inside, \(\frac{1}{2}\) in. up from the bottom edge, the roof is finished.
For the purpose of providing a means of egress to stray bees which may linger round the hive top or surplus boxes after manipulations, and also for use at certain seasons as a super clearer, it is well to fit each roof with a cone, as shown by Fig. 7, p. 17. A 1-in. hole should be bored in the front gable previous to putting the roof together, over which, after the hive is painted, a brass perforated cone, which can be purchased for \(1\frac{1}{2}\)d., is fixed with brass escutcheon pins or small round-headed screws.
The utility of a porch p d is, with some, a matter for argument, it being contended that the advantage it affords in sheltering the entrance to the hive from rain-storms is quite overshadowed by its disadvantage at certain times, as, for instance, when hiving a swarm. As the porch of this hive is detachable, it is not open to any such objection; a few turns of a couple of screw-eyes suffice to remove it from the body-box, and a few more turns will refix it, either in its original position or upon the lift when the latter is telescoped over the body-box at the approach of winter.
Fig. 16 shows the shape of the porch brackets p b which are to be fixed 2 in. in from the ends of the back p a after the top edge of the latter has been bevelled to correspond with the slope of the tops of the brackets. Nail on the distance fillet p c 3 in. from the bottom edge of the back, and, after bevelling the back edge of the slope so that the top back edge fits close against the hive front when the porch is in position, nail it to both the back and the two brackets, allowing a projection of 1 in. over the back edge of the former. A couple of 11-in. screw-eyes--bras will be preferable--with a washer under the head of each, will provide an easy means of securing the porch, and they should be inserted outside the brackets so as to be easily got at without disturbing the occupants of the hive.
The entrance-slides p ff, with which to contract the entrance formed in the floor-board, are simply pieces of wood rectangular in section with the ends cut square, and having a small screw-eye or roundeded screw inserted in each as a handle to assist in drawing it backward and forward in the recess formed at the back of the porch. When entirely withdrawn, the slides may be placed in the open space behind the back of the porch above the distance fillet.
Punch in all nail heads, and give the hive at least three coats of some light-coloured paint, stopping the nail holes with putty between the first and second coats. Although the inside of the hive need not be painted, the floor-board should be painted all over ; and it will considerably add to the wear of the hive if all joints are thickly coated with paint before being nailed together.
It is highly important that measurements be strictly adhered to, especially as regards the internal dimensions of the body-box, its squareness being no less essential. Bees actively resent interference when brace combs have to be torn asunder, or when propolised surfaces part with a " snap "; and although accuracy is not so essential in those parts of the hive to which the bees are not allowed access, a properly made and well-fitting hive means comfortable manipulations and few or no stings.
## Chapter IV The " W.B.C." beehive.
The " W.B.C." hive is a bar-fram3 hive designed by Mr. W. Broughton Carr, and its several parts are shown in the illustrations accompanying this chapter. The stand, floor-board, outer case, lift, and roof are shown in their relative positions by Fig. 25, but drawn apart to illustrate their construction better. Fig. 26 shows the interior parts or hive proper--the eke, body-box or brood-chamber, and a shallow frame-box or super.
The following particulars of the sizes of wood used in making this hive were published by Mr. Carr some years since. The floor-board is 1 ft. 8 in. from front to back, the alighting-board projecting 7 in. as shown. The width of the entrance is 1 ft. 3$ in. by \(\frac{1}{2}\) in. high, and the full width of the floor-board is 1 ft. 6$ in., as shown in Fig. 25. The wood of the floor-board is \(\frac{1}{2}\) in. thick (the joints being tongued and grooved), and nailed to battems 2$ in. deep by 1$ in. wide, cut as shown.
The front and back boards of the outer case are $ in. thick by 1 ft. 6$ in. by 8$ in. The side pieces are $ in. thick by 1 ft. 7$ in. by 8$ in. The inside measurement of the case when nailed up is 1 ft. 5$ in. by 1 ft. 7$ in. A plinth 1$ in. wide is nailed round the lower edge of the case, and drops $ in., as shown in Fig. 27 ; this figure also shows a rebate $ in. by $ in. taken out of the strips used for the plinth, to fit the case over the floor-board.
The construction of the porch, which is nailed to the front of the case, will be best understood from Fig. 25. The roof of the porch is 4$ in. wide, and on the under-side of the lower edge a grooveFigure 25:Parts of " W.B.C." Seehive.
is cut to turn rainwater off. The entrance can be closed by slides of 1-in. wood, 10 in. long by 11 in. wide, rebated along the top edge to slip under the rebated edge of the guide-piece above the entrance.
The lift, which rests on the outer case, is of exactly the same construction as the case, but is only 61 in. deep.
The roof just slips over the lift or outer case. The front and back pieces are 1 ft. 74 in. long, 31 in. deep at the ends and 53 in. at the centre, to form the ridge, and are of 3-in. stuff. The sides are of
Figure 26: Inside of " W.B.C." Beehive.
4-in. stuff, 1 ft. SS1 in. by 3 SS in. The lower inner edge of the side pieces is rebated SS in. by SS in., so that the roof may rest on the edge of the case below.
The body-box or brood chamber (Fig. 26) is constructed to hold ten standard frames, and is 1 ft. 21 in. by 1 ft. 3 in., inside measurement. The front and back pieces are SS in. thick, 151 in. long, and SS in. wide, and fit in grooves in the side pieces 1 in. from their ends. The side pieces are 1 ft. 5 in. by 9 in., and 12 in. thick.
From the top corners of the side pieces a piece is nicked out to receive strips of wood 1 ft. 4 in. by 13 in. by 14 in., which extend from side to side at the back and front. These strips enclose the top of the bar-frame ends, keeping them in position. A slip 1 ft. 3 in. long and 3 in. by SS in. square is nailed between the strips and the front and back pieces of the box. A strip of zinc, on which the frame ends rest, is nailed on the top edge of the front and back pieces. Fig. 28 is a section across the top front and the back edge of the body-box. The dotted lines show a corner of a frame resting on the zinc.strip.
The shallow frame-box or super, which fits over The "W.B.C." BEEHIVE." 45
the body-box, is, except that it is 6 in. deep, exactly the same as the body-box. The bar-frames to fit are 5\(\frac{1}{2}\) in. deep.
The eke, for winter use only, is 3 in. deep, and goes below the body-box. The four cleats nailed to its top edge, shown in Fig. 26, are to keep it in position under the body-box. The eke is not essential, but is used to raise the body-box to give bottom ventilation when wintering the bees. It can also be placed below the shallow frame-box to bring it to the size of the body-box.
The stand for the hive is simple in construction, the only difficult part being in marking out the wood for the legs, which are splayed outwards in the direction of the diagonals of the frame, to which they are fixed. The splay of the legs depends on the depth and thickness of the wood of the frame ; and in order that the outside faces of the legs should meet the bottom edge of the frame corners exactly, the cross section of the legs must have the form of a trapezium.
Figs. 29 and 30 show how to find the correct angles to which to set a level for marking out the shoulders of the legs. From a point a (Fig. 29), draw two lines a b and a c at right angles to each other, making them equal or proportional to the thickness of the wood of the stand frame--that is 46_Beehires and Bee Keepers' Appliances._
4 in. Join B c, and from the point c draw the line c d at right angles to b c, making c d equal or proportional to the depth of the frame--that is
2\(\underline{\underline{\mathrm{j}}}\) in. Then join B d, and on the line B c take from the point c a distance c e equal to a c and join E d. With b as centre and a b as radius describe a circle, and with d as centre and d e as radius describe the arc e f cutting the circle at the point F.' Join B F, and produce d b in the direction g, then the angle f b g is the angle for the bevel. With the sizes given this angle is about \(106^{\circ}\).
The angle for the outside faces of the leg is
found as in Fig. 30. Draw two straight lines a b and a c at right angles to each other, making them equal to twice the thickness of the wood of the
Figure 31: Cutting Shoulders of Legs of Stand.
Figure 30: Marking Out Legs of Stand.
frame--that is 1\(\frac{1}{2}\) in. Complete the square a b d c, and draw the diagonals. Set off from the point of intersection E a distance E F equal to the perpendicular c H (Fig. 29), and join c F and F b. The angle c F b, about 95\({}^{\circ}\), is the angle to which two adjacent faces of the wood from which the legs are to be cut should be dressed before the shoulders are marked on them. Fig. 31 shows the marking out of the shoulder end upon the wood. Fig. 32 is a cross section, and Fig. 33 a section after cutting along the lines a b and b c (Fig. 30).
## Chapter V furnishing and stocking a beehive.
Being in possession of a hive, the bee keeper must turn his thoughts towards the furnishing of it suitably for the habitation of the bees. True, if given the empty hive, the bees will themselves proceed to furnish it, but most probably in a style quite at variance with the ideas of modern bee keepers.
In a bar-frame or movable-comb hive, it is of great importance that each comb should be built quite straight in its frame, and that each frame should be truly square and in fit condition for being lifted from the hive without tearing asunder any attachment either to another comb or to the hive walls ; and this condition can be secured only by correct initial management. It is an old truism that "bees do nothing invariably "; but as a general rule, if they are properly started in the way they should go, they will not make any serious departure from it.
Figure 31: B.B.K.A. Standard Frame.
In furnishing a beehive, the first requisite is a set of frames, each of which will eventually contain a comb. The "standard " frame of the British Bee Keepers' Association is illustrated by Fig. 34, and described on p. 10, and if the measurements there given are adhered to, the pattern of the frames does not much matter ; it will vary according to the method employed of spacing the frames in the hive. Bees in a natural state build their combs from 11\(\frac{1}{2}\) in. to 11\(\frac{1}{2}\) in. apart centre to centre, and the spacing usually adopted in placing frames is 1\(\frac{9}{20}\) in. centre to centre, ten frames occupying a width of 14\(\frac{1}{2}\) in.
Frames may be roughly divided into two classes :broad-shouldered, which are self-spacing; and shoulderless, which require some mechanical contrivance to ensure correct spacing. The latter is the class most commonly employed, although a considerable number of apiarists still hold to the broad-shouldered frame, sometimes called the "Abbot" frame. Figs. 35 and 36 illustrate in plan different forms of broad-shouldered frames, Fig. 36 being the "Abbot" pattern; and Fig. 37 illustrates, also in plan, a shoulderless frame fitted with "W.B.C." metal ends. Fig. 38 illustrates a variation in the working of the "W.B.C." end which will be referred to later.
A plain, shoulderless frame, such as has been previously referred to as the B.B.K.A. " standard" frame, consists merely of the separate pieces of wood sawn or planed to the correct dimensions and squarely nailed together, and for this purpose--as a time saver--a frame block is a convenience upon which the separate pieces composing the frame are laid and held in position whilst they are nailed. Ten such frames (Fig. 39) are required for the hive shown by Figs. 1 and 2, pp. 12 and 13. It is very important that they should be of standard size, with the top bar a 1 ft. 5 in. by \(\frac{1}{2}\) in. by \(\frac{1}{2}\) in., the length over the uprights 1 ft. 2 in., and the depth over all 8\(\frac{1}{2}\) in. The bottom and side bars vary in thickness with different manufacturers, but \(\frac{1}{2}\) in. for the uprights and \(\frac{1}{2}\) in. for the bottom bar, especially where the foundation is fixed by wiring, are to be preferred.
Materials for the bar frames, ready for nailing together, can be obtained from dealers, who also supply blocks for keeping the frames square while being nailed, but many bee keepers put the frames together without the blocks.
In working for extracted honey, shallow frames are now generally used. These have 1-ft. 5-in. top bars, and are 1 ft. 2 in. over the uprights, but the total depth is reduced to 5\(\frac{1}{2}\) in.
Figure 39: Wired Bar Frame.
* 52_Beehives and Bee KEEpers' Applmces._ However, the shoulderless frames in most general use are those of the American pattern, the joints in which are shown by Fig. 40; all these joints are accurately cut by machinery, and a frame block is not necessary for making them up. Frames cost so little that it does not pay to make them, except in quantity, and then only when a circular saw is available, and material that would otherwise be wasted can be used up. These observations as to the home-making of frames apply with still greater force to broad-shouldered frames. Fig. 40 clearly shows how the parts of the frame fit together. Lay the top bar on the bench or table, force the tenons of the side bars into the morti
Figure 40: American Jointed Frame.
the bottom bar, and after seeing that the side bars are square with each other, drive a fine wire nail through the tenon of the side bar into the top bar; one at each end on opposite sides will suffice (see Fig. 41).
Abbot's broad-shouldered frames are also made with mortise and tenon joints, but the mortises are cut centrally in the top bar.
To induce the'bees to build combs in the bar frames instead of across them, it is necessary to use sheets of foundation wax, which are impressed with the bases of the comb cells. For the brood chamber these run about six or seven sheets to the bound, but thinner foundations are used in the sections, and by some in the shallow bar frames.
Figure 42: Wax Sheet Fixed in Frame.
Figure 43: Frame Wired to receive Foundation.
Some bee keepers use just a narrow strip of foundation fixed to the top bar of the frames, but it is far better and cheaper in the end to use a full sheet for each frame. When it is desired that the comb shall be wholly or in greater part built of cells "worker "' size, it is advisable to use sheets of foundation large enough to fill almost entirely each frame.
Several methods of fixing foundations in frames are employed, the most common and the most objectionable plan being to insert the sheet of wax in a saw kerf cut in the centre of the top bar, as shown in Figs. 39 and 40.
Reference was made to the weakness of the Association "standard " top bar (SS in.); to put a saw kerf through it weakens it still further, and the cavity thus formed affords a hiding place for the larvae of the wax moth--an insect which proves very destructive when it once gets possession of a comb. Fig. 42 represents a much preferable plan adopted by Abbot Bros.
Two parallel grooves are cut on the underside of the top bar, the foundation F being placed in the narrower one ; the wedge w is then driven tightly into the broader groove, by which means the wax sheet is very firmly secured.
When a solid top bar is employed, the sheet of wax may be fixed by running molten wax along at the junction of wood and foundation, and if this is done on each side of the sheet, and the wax is
Figure 44: Block for Wiring Frame.
of the proper heat, a good joint will result. But a much more satisfactory plan of fixing full-sized sheets of foundation is to wire them as explained below.
. A trellis of wire is secured to the frame, and these wires are heated and embedded into the wax itself so that the foundation cannot give way in the hive--an accident that no other method is proof against. Each apiarist usually has his own method of wiring frames ; but that illustrated by Fig. 43 is general. Before making-up the frames, run a gauge mark down the centre of each top and bottom bar ; then upon this gauge line, and at distances marked on Fig. 43, bore holes through with a fine
bradawl ; also drive in a 1-in. tack between one end pair of holes in the bottom of each bottom bar. After the frames are made up, thread some No. 30 tinned iron wire through the holes in rotation by the figures and in the direction indicated by the arrows, commencing at No. 1 and finishing at No. 8. Now fix the free end of the wire from hole No. 8 by giving it a twist or two round the tack at r, then, working backward, tighten the loop between 7 and 6, then between 5 and 4, 3 and 2, and finally pass the wire two or three times round the tack t, hammer the tack home, and cut off the surplus wire. If properly done, the wires, when touched, should emit a dull musical note, and neither top nor bottom bars should be strained out of parallelism.
Figure 45: Gauge-board.
Another method of wiring a frame is as follows: Prepare a block (Fig. 44) that will just fit loosely inside the frame (Fig. 44 is drawn to agree with Fig. 39). This may be about \(\lx@sectionsign\) in. thick, and should have four lines marked on it as shown. This block is dropped into the frame, and the positions where the lines intersect marked on the top and bottom bars. Holes are bored with a fine bradawl through the top and bottom bars where marked in Fig. 39 at b, c, d, etc., those in the top bar being bored on the slant to miss the groove for the foundation. A length of wire is then taken from the reel, and a small loop b twisted at one end, and the opposite end passed up through the hole b, down through c and d, up through E and F, down through G and H, up through i, when it is put through the loop, pulled fairly tight, cut to length, and secured by twisting as shown at J.
For fixing the foundation to the wires, and also when the. wax sheet is secured to the top bar by the smelting process, a guide-board (Fig. 45) is required. This is a piece of \(\lx@sectionsign\)-in. wood, in size \(\lx@sectionsign\) in. less each way than the inside measurement of the frames, and to its underside two fillets are fixed crosswise, as shown, of a size so that they project at least \(\lx@sectionsign\) in. on each side. Upon this guide-board lay a sheet of foundation, and above this lay the wired frame. Then a tool called an embedder
Figure 46: Woiblet Spur Embedder.
Figure 47: Wheel of Woiblet Spur Embedder.
(Fig. 46) is heated sufficiently to melt beeswax,and run along over the wires, and as the wax melts the wires are pressed into the sheet, into which they are firmly embedded when the wax again cools.
The wheel of the embedder is heated to a black heat in a gas flame or fire; do not press the wire right through the wax.
The favourite tool for embedding is the Weiblet spur embedder, and Figs. 46 and 47 show in side elevation and in part plan, respectively, a home-made tool upon this principle. The wheel, cut from sheet brass, is 1 in. in diameter and 1 in. thick, and the wire handle is of 1-in. iron wire; a wooden handle instead of the wire loop would be an improvement (see Fig. 48).
A simpler embedder (Fig. 49) can be made in a few minutes from a 31-in. or 4-in. floor brad; two are useful, as one can be heating whilst the other is in use. An expert has had in use for several years a couple of these hom
Figure 49: Embedder made with Floor Brad.
Figure 48: Spur Embedder with Wooden Handle.
are as effective as more costly appliances. Take a floor brad (a cut nail will do), and placing it between two pieces of deal, about 4 in. long, 1 in. wide, and \(\frac{1}{2}\) in. thick, give the two a good squeeze in the bench vice to embed the nail in the wood. After removal, bind the nail end of the handle with two or three turns of copper wire and secure the wire ferrule with a touch of solder; then put a 4-in. screw into the other end of the handle. Round off the point of the nail on one side, as shown by Fig. 49, and after filing away the point until it is about \(\frac{1}{16}\) in. thick, file a nick or **V**-groove in the rounded face, and the embedder is complete. The nick or groove is for the purpose of keeping the tool on the wire when in use.
The foundation having been fixed, and the frames being ready to be placed in the hive, the question of side spacing comes under consideration, that is, the keeping of tile frames of comb the correct distance apart. As previously mentioned, frames are spaced laterally in the hive \(1_{\frac{9}{2}}\) in. (1\(\frac{1}{2}\) in. bare) centre to centre, and whilst this spacing can be accomplished by marking the end of each frame at its centre, and placing these marks opposite similar marks made on the hive side, the heat of the hive is not conserved, as is the case when broad-shouldered frames or distance keepers are employed.