BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
There is scarcely a spot on the surface of the earth where mankind findsustenance that will not, to some extent, support bees, although they may do much better in some localities than in others. A few years ago it was thought that only localities especially favored would give large honey crops; but since the introduction of the Italinns, and the new methods of management, we are each year a-tonshied to hear of great yields here and there,and from almost every quarter of the globe. It will certainly pay to try a colony or two of bees, no matter where you may be located.
Bees are kept with much profit, even in the heart of some of our large cities. In this case the apiary is usually located on the roof of the building, that the bees may be less likely to frighten nervous people and those muncquainted with their habits. Such an apiary should be established like those on the ground in all essential points.
It is not always possible to select just the location for an apiary that we might like, and we are therefore compelled to take what we can get; but where conditions permit it is advisable to select the rear of a village lot; or, if located on a farm, back of the house in an apiarar. The ground should be rolled and smoothed down so that a lawn-mover can run over every portion of it, as the grass should be kept down around the hives. And then, a smooth plot of ground renders the use of a wheelbarrow or handcart for handling loads much more pleasant and convenient. An ideal spot would be an orchard of young trees seventy-five or a hundred feet from the road or highway. Usually the rear end of a village lot just block of the house will answer very nicely. If the apiary _must_ be located close to the highway, then a high board fence should be placed between the bees and the street. A hedge of usage orange, or evergreens; a trellis of some sort of vine; trees, shrubbery, or any thing that will cause the bees to raise their flight to a height of ten or twelve feet above the traffic of the street may be used. In any case, the bees should never be allowed to go direct from their hives on a line that would encounter vehicles or pedestrians; otherwise their owner may have a lawsuit on his hands for alleged damages from bestings. See bees as a Nuisance.
too much shade detrimental.
If the orchard where the bees are to be located is made up of _old_ trees, then there can be from four to five hives grouped under each tree. If, on the other hand, it consists of young ones, then not more than one or two hives should be placed at a tree, and in that cave always on the north side, to be in the shade. The hives should be so located that they will get the morning sun up to eight or nine o'clock, and the afternoon sun from three or four o'clock on. Too much shade is detrimental, and too much hot sun pouring directly on the hives is equally bad. Experience has shown conclusively that a very dense shade over bees in the morning hours is detrimnal. Co his seated on the _est_ side of a building or barn, or under densely foliage trees, so that they do not get the morning sun, will not, as a rule, be as far along by the time the honey-flow comes on its those that have only moderate shade. On the other hand, an _afternoon_ shade does not do as much harm as one in the forenoon.
Well, suppose one does not have trees of any sort in his yard--what shall he do? One of four courses lies open : First, to use double-walled hives; second, single-walled hives with shade-boards; third, single-walled hives having on the south side of them some sort of vine that can be reared up within a year or two. A grapevine trellis,
## Appendix A A. History of M. H. Mendleson
This is an exhibition apary in the suburb of Philadelphia-Urbia, used to demonstrate the various processes- and methods of handling bees. Here are also shown to the visitors the various races, their characteristics and markings.
This yard is intended to be a model one in every respect, and has been so pronounced. The ground is nicely terrensed, and here and there are flower-medens so arranged as to give a pleasing effect. In June, 1986, and arqin in 1986, a general field-day of bee-keyness who held in this apary. Experts were present to describe and illustrate their various methods of handling bees to the crowds that assembled from all over the country. At the field meet of 1986 there were something over two bee-keyness present, making by all odds the largest gathering of bee-keyness that this country has ever seen. This affair was a success in every way, and it is possible that other meets will be held at this yard in the future.
say 8 feet high and 10 or 12 feet long, running from east to west, well covered with a vine, can be made to protect anywhere from five to ten hives. On this trellis, grupevines or any other quick-growing vine may be reared to provide shade during the heat of the day. The fourth and last plan is to use overhead trellis, making use of straw, dried grass, or brush for a covering such as is used in Arizona and Cuba. See cuts pages [22] and [23]. These trellises are about 7 feet high, and run from east to west,* so that the sun, nearly overhead as it is in Arizona, never strikes the hives from morning till night. These trellised shades, if there are no trees, are indispensable in hot localities. They thoroughly protect the bees, prevent combs melting down, and render the work of the apiarist pleasant.
Footnote *: In Cuba or other humid countries the sheds should run north and south, for the hives used the sun in the morning and late afternoon to dry them. Protection is required only during the heat of the day when the sun is overhead.
But some bee-keepers prefer to use shudeboards. These consist of large covers cleared at the ends, and made of two or three boards of the cheapest lumber that can be had. They should be large enough to project a foot over the front and rear, and an equal distance on each side. They are then held securely in place by a stone weighing 15 or 20 pounds.
But whenever one manipulates these hives he is required to lift a heavy stone and remove an awkward shade-board before he can do any work with the bees.
When bee-hives are placed in long rows close together, as under a shed or on a roof, it is very essential that the hives differ from each other in appearance so that the bees may distinguish their own hive from all the rest. This differentiation may be accomplished in various ways : first, by painting the hives different colors : second, by using a different entrance or alighting-board : third, by laying a stone or brick on some boards and not on others ; fourth, by placing a piece of brush on the front of some hives, etc. The idea is to place some distinctive mark by which each hive may be quickly recognized by its tenants. The best place to make such mark is at the entrance so that all the bees can see it, both on leaving and returning.
windbreaks.
The most perfect windbreak is an enclosure of woods on three sides, with an opening to the south. This, however, is not available to all. \(\Lambda\)n apiary so situated that there is a clump of woods on one side and buildings on the other two sides, leaving only a southern aspect, is well sheltered from the prevailing winds. But, as already stated, if there are woods or buildings around the east side of the bee-yard, enough so as to shade the hives until about noon, the bees will not build up as fast in the spring as those that can get the morning sun up to ten or eleven o'clock. In the absence of any natural or accidental protection whatever, it is quite essential that some sort of windbreak be provided. If it is desirable to put up something permanent, and something which would not not out or require repairs, outskirt the apiary withrows of hardy-growing evergreenus, such as are seen in our own apiary in the following pages. These, for the first few years, would afford but a scauty protection; but in 10 years'time they answer their purpose admirally. In 1879, we enclosed our apiary with evergreenus. They have proved to be very thirify, and now (1910) are quite good-sized trees.
live-stands.
It will be next in order to consider whether we shall put the hives directly on the ground or on some sort of stand. Many bee-keepers use four half-bricks, so arranging them that they will come directly under the four corners of the bottom-board. To secure a proper level, it will be necessary to use a spade or piekax to cut down the soil in spots sufficiently to let one or more bricks come down to the grade of the others. It is desirable, however, to have the forward lricks a little lower than the rear in order that the water may run out of the entrances. Other bee-keepers use short strips of old boards or pieces of seamling, cut off in lengths equal to the width of the hive, and leveled in the same manner as the bricks, but the bricks and old boards allow the bricks to come too near the ground--enough so to cause daipness, and, sometimes, when the bricks settle, the rotting of the under side of the bottom-board.
Mr. R. C. Hollins, of Sladenville, Ky., drives four notched stakes into the ground, made of stuff three inches wide, one inch thick, and one or two feet long. The part driven into the ground should be dipped in ecosote, linseed oil, or, better still, cardolineum, a kind of wood preservative used by railway'companies to preserve ties. The
illustration here given will show the idea. The stakes should project up above the ground from one to six inches. Four inches will ordinarily be high enough. In that case the stakes need not be more than 18 inches long. The length of them, however, will depend a good deal on the character of the soil and the preference of operative--whether the hive shall be high or low.
The stakes should be driven by line, and accurately measured off and afterwards level of the stakes stick up six inches above the stakes stick up six inches above the obvious advantage of a slanting front from the ground to the bottom-board.
Another arrangement that is favored by a good many is a double hive-stand made as shown in the accompanying illustration. The legs should not be less than two inches square, and the ends to come in contact with the ground should be diped in tar, or some sort of wood-preservative. The side-boards, if the legs are a foot long, may be anywhere from three to six inches wide -four inches will be a nice compromise. The whole should be securely nailed and made to conform to a level floor. When a sufficient number have been made they can be spaced off and leveled up in the yard ready to receive pairs of hives, or even three if thought necessary.
This arrangement has much L. recommend it. It permits keeping the hives in growth as of two or three, so that they may be operated at a convenient distance from the ground. It also allows carrying out the general plan of shaking swarms, as explained further on under the head of swarming : of formi g nuclei, or doubling up in the fall. Say there are two hives on the same stand, and both of them weak, and neither of them strong enough to go through the winter. Place all the combs ind bees in one hive, and put it in the space exactly between where the two stood. Now move the other hive away entirely. The flying bees of both hives will go back to the one now at a point midway between where the other two stood.
## Appendix A A.1.
But an important feature of this hivestand is that it permits of being moved from one out-apriary to another without "pulling up stakes;" and a stand that will hold two or three hives is cheaper than two or three separate stands.
If the entrances of the hives are less than a foot above ground it is desirable to have some sort of board leading from the ground up to the entrance, unless the alighting-board itself is of good size, as shown in the illustration, in which case the incoming bees will be able to land without difficulty.
Having decided upon the location, kind of shade, windbreaks, and hive-stands, how shall we arrange the hives in the aary? This question can best be answered by studying the plans adopted by some of the prominent apriarists. Where there is no natural shade the one shown on page A.1 is a very good one.
### A.1.
Blatch, of Ithaca, Wis., a prominent and extensive bee-keeper,urnages his hives on the plan shown above, which, as will be seen, will work nicely in connection with the double hive-stand shown on page A.1.
The stars in the preceding diagram indicate the entrances. There are two lanes, or alleyways, one six feet wide, for the bees, and one ten feet wide, for the apiarist, and his horse and wagon, etc. It will be noticed that the hives are arranged in pairs, in such a way that they face each other with entrances sits feet apart. In the next alley their _bucks_ are toward each other.
s. e. miller's plan of an 'apriar'.
This plan is similar to the one used by Mr. Hatch, but is arranged with a view of still greater economy of space, not losing sight of the scheme of a highway for bees, and an ally for the apriarist. Instead of being in pairs they are arranged in groups of five each. Little circles in front of the hives indicate the entrances. The hives should be many town lot. One advantage of this grouping plan is, that the apiarist can sit on one hive while he is working on another; and his tools, such as smoker, honey-knives, bee brushes, etc., are right at hand for the while live hives. Where there is only one hive on a stand, the tools have to be carried to each hive.
The general scheme is as pretty in practice as it is in theory; and it is an actual fact that one can crowd more colonies on a given area (and yet leave room to run wagons or carts among the hives), than with any other plan with which we are acquainted.
The Miller plan is specially well adapted to a location in a grove; but as trees often vary in size the foliage is sometimes lopsided or scant on some of the trees, and hence it is not always practicable to put five hives at each tree. It is our practice to place in front of the smallest trees only one hive; in front of those a trifle larger, two hives; those still larger, three hives, and when they are of fair size, five, as in the Miller plan. Arranging the hives thus, gives each group of one, two, three, or five, as the case may be, an individuality of its own, thus affording the bees a better chance to distinguish their own group; but in every case the precaution must be observed of placing the hives on the _north_ side of the tree. Where
There are two and three in a group, one can have the entrances pointing toward the south; or if there are only two in a group he can have one hive with its entrance pointing toward the west, and the other hive toward the east. In any case I would avoid having hives face the north.
The following diagram shows how the hives on the three and two plan may be arranged, considering, of course, that the tree is just south of the hive, and one, two, three, or four feet from it.
We have tested the plan for aplanies arranged with one alleyway for bee-flight and one for the apriar; and so have a good many competent le-neen. The bees seem to recognize this narrow ulleyway as their own allotted highway; and when they are working heavily, said highways are literally full of bees, while the broad ones are more free. In some apriaries in California we found double rows of hives, with a double alleyway between them, instead of being parallel, diverge from a common center, like the spokes of a wheel. Of course, in this case the honey-house or work-shop should be at the hub, or center of the system.
keeping grass down around the hives.
Having decided on the location and plan of the apriary, the next question that would naturally arise is, shall the grass be allowed to grow and be kept down to an even height with a ban-mower2 or shall the scd be cut off entirely, and the hives be placed on a smooth | lot of clay leveled off like a brickyard? In favor of this last arrangement it may be said that questions can be easily found, and that, when the scd is once removed, all that is necessary is to go around the hives with a hole or scraping-knife to shave off the weeks as fast as they come. If they are kept down thus, and the plot is sprinkled with a thin layer of sawdust raked over evenly, we have an almost ideal spot for bees. While ground floors of this kind are nice and pretty to look at, it means a great deal of labor and expense, because there is almost constant warfare against weeds. They will crowd their heads up through the sawdust; and at the present low prices at which honey sells, it may be doubled whether one is warranted in going to such expense and trouble. The great majority of bee-keepers, however, after having levelded the plot, leaving the scd, consider it sufficient to keep the grass down with a lawn-mower. If it is known once or twice a week, the yard not only looks pretty but practically there is no inconvenience resulting from the short grass. A lawn apiary is much better, and about as convenient in every way as one with a brickyard bottom.
Footnote 2: The \(lpha\)-function is not a function of the number of times, but it is not a function of the number of times.
Here is not practicable to run a lawn-mower, any closer than about two inches to a hive; and it is, therefore, our practice to sprinkle salt in front of the entrances and around the hives. This kills all vegetation, up to point where the lawn-mower can reach it.
But a good many apriarists do not even have the time to use a lawn-mower. As it would be a great task to keep the grass down in front of the hives where it would obstruct bees returning heavily laden from the fields, it is a very common practice to use a bound little longer than the entrance, and a foot or 18 inches wide. This board should be cleated on the back, and attached to the hive so that the bees may have an easy runway clear up to the entrance. These boards may be planed and painted; but ordinarily we would recommend rough unplanned stuff--the cheaper the better. 7 his gives the bees a good foothold, and at the same time saves some expense. See Entrances.
Sheep for keeping down grass in the airary.
One of our neighbors lets loose it few sheep in his apiary occasionally. It is well known that our woolly friends can gnaw the grass closer than any other stock. If a few of them be turned into an apiary for a day or two they will cut down all the vegetation close to the hives, not leaving even a spring of any sort. One would naturally suppose that the bees would stop the animals, with the possible result that a hive or two would be overturned; but in actual practice no trouble results. Once in a great while a sheep is stung; but instead of running and bellowing like a calf, or kicking and renting like a horse, these animals quietly walk off to a bush and plunge their heads into it, and keep them there until all is quiet. A bee can not possibly hurt them except around the eyes and nose. But it is so seldom that they are attacked that one can not consider it cruelty to animals to use them as lawn-movers. If one does not care to have them stung at all he can turn them into the apiary just at night, and before daylight drive them outagain. But we have been in a yard where two or three sheep were allowed to graze allthe season through, and in all that time they were not stung more than one or twice, and yet the grass was kept down _automhetically over every square foot of the opinion_.
One would suppose the droppings might be somewhat offensive; but our neighbor assures us that this is not the case, as the manure very soon sun-dries, and it is of such a nature that it makes no trouble in the first place.
This is a term that is used to designate a structure enclosing a whole apiary. The hives are usually arranged on shelves next to the outside walls and having direct communication with the outside.
As a general thing, an outdoor apiary is cheaper and more satisfactory than one in a building. For the house-aplary, the capital to put up the building must be furnished at the outset; and one that will take 50 colonies will cost much more than the same number of hives intended for outdoor use. But there are conditions under which the house-aplary may be and is used to advantage--in fact, affords the only method of keeping bees at all. Where land is valuable, such as in or near the city, or in localities occasionally visited by thieves, where bees, honey, and every thing, so far as possible, must be kept under lock and key, it is a necessity. A small building, also, to accommodate 85 or 40 colonies, even when these conditions do not exist, may often be used very advantageously in connection with the regular apiary outdoors. When robbers are bad, or when the day is rainy, the work can continue right on, because the apiarist can leave the outdoor bees and resume operations inside, free from robbers in the one case, or protected from incoherent weather in the other.
Until very recently, house-aplarles have not been regarded with very much favor among practical bee-keepers, principally on account of faulty construction, and because bee escapes, when house-aplaries began to come into use in certain quarters, were not known; but since the advent of these labor-saving devices, the tombles arising from bees leaving the hives, and crawling over the floor to die, or to be tranplined on if not already dead, at the first visit of the apiarist, are done away with. These and other inconveniences have been almost wholly removed; and perhaps the only reason why the house-aplary is not more generally used is because of the expense, or first cost.
How to construct a house-aplary.
The building may be oblong, square, eagonal, or round. The round or octagonal form will, perhaps, save steps during the operation of extracting; because, if the building is only 12 or 14 feet in diameter, the extractor may be put in the center of the room, and every hive will be equally distant, or practically so, and the combs may be transferred from hive to extractor, and _rice e-rsa_, without taking more than one step; whereas, if the building is oblong some hives will be further from the seat of operations. The house-aplary building we are using is octagonal; but we found it a very expensive thing to make, and we were greatly annoyed by a leaky roof; and the only way to make it tight, with its many angles, was to cover it with tin. We would, therefore, construct a plain square building, say 12 feet across. For a roof we would adopt the plain gable, covering it with shingles. Where the winters are cold the building should _by all means be double-welled_ with sawdust, or some sort of packing material should be poured in between the two walls. Unless it is warmly packed there will be bad wintering. Our own building is lined on the inside with turrel paper, and recovered with vanilla paper; but we are not sure that we would recommend it for any one else, because holes are constantly being punched through it. A better way would be to line it with wood--some cheap flooring would be good enough. If the joints are made tight, so that the packing-material will not leak, plain No. 2 barn-boards would answer. Through the roof, and extending through the center of the ceiling, we would have a ventilator-shaft, made of wood, about a foot square, and so arranged that it can be closed at will. During summer weather the smoker should be set directly beneath the shaft, and the ventilator opened for the escape of smoke. It should always be closed before leaving the building, because it is desirable to have the room perfectly dark, except at the small openings, where bee escapes are to be placed, as we shall soon explain.