BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
There are many devices on the market for feeding, most of them having merit and some particular convenience. They may be listed: Cary, Danzenbaker, Paige, division-board, pepperbox or Boardman (slow or small feeders), and Miller (a rapid feeder). These may be seen pictured in the catalogues. On the whole, an entrance feeder is to be avoided, since it excites robbing unless cantionsly used.
#### Tin Pan Feeder.
This is perhaps the most satisfactory, inexpensive and sanitary feeder in use. A tin pan is filled with excelsior and placed in an empty super above the brood chamber. When filled with syrup, the excelsior affords a footing for the bees, so that few drown, drowning being an objection to some other feeders. Furthermore, dry sugar may be placed in the pan and merely dampened with water, supplying an excellent slow feed. When desired, the pans may be sealed and sterilized. There is no eheeking of the wood, nor breaking of glass; they telescope and pack away, and their cost is but 5 or 10 eents each.
#### Mixing Syrup.
Usually it is not necessary to boil syrup if mixed in advance and thoroughly stirred (an extractor is serviceable for 50 pounds or more of sugar). If hot water is used, it is an advantage. There are two precautions, however. Never feed scorehed syrup, since it is fatal. There are cases, also, where feed has stood in galvanized tanks, as in an extractor, and has been found upon feeding to be poisonous to brood, especially in queen rearing.
_Pollen Substitutes._
Whether we have yet found a substitute for pollen is a question. Some authorities advise placing bran, rye flour, pea flour and other similar materials where bees can gather them in the early spring. No objection or particular advantage in the practice has been observed.
One of the most formidable obstacles in the industry is wintering. Among those who practice the "let-alone" method of bekeeping, the mortality in winter and early spring is high. Unfortunately, no accurate studies of the best conditions for wintering have been made, yet failure may frequently be attributed to starvation, too small colonies as a result of late swarms, old queens which fail to survive or build up the colony in spring, or to the lack of a large population of young bees reared in the fall, which are to survive as workers the following spring.
Bees pass the winter in what may be termed a winter nest. They do not hibernate in the strict sense of the word, but cluster densely on the combs, maintain a relatively high and constant temperature, and consume honey for the purpose of heat production. Several months are sometimes passed without their leaving the hive, but upon the first calm warm day of spring, when the mereury reaches 45\({}^{\circ}\) to 50\({}^{\circ}\) F., they break clusters and fly forth, relieving themselves of excerment which they have retained rather than deposit in the hive. Having usually ceased brood rearing in October or early November, this is resumed in the spring, sometimes as early as February and usually in Mareh.
Based on an understanding of normal, conditions and behavior, it is evident that certain precautions by the bekeeper can materially further successful wintering. Perhaps the most important are plenty of provisions naturally arranged or stored early in the fall, and accessible to the cluster in winter; a large population of young, vigorous bees, reared late, which survive to become workers the following spring; a young prolific queen, preferably of the previous summer's rearing; and rational outward protection to the hive.
The methods of feeding are already discussed. This should not be delayed later than the first of October, to allow the natural and proper storage of the provisions. According to the size of the colony is the winter consumption. On the average, 35 pounds are consumed by colonies wintered out of doors, and bees, stores and hive fixtures should weigh approximately 50 pounds in the fall. Colonies light in naturally gathered provisions should be provided a balance of thick, fall-feeding, sugar syrup. Cellar-wintered colonies consume less than half as much provisions.
Normal, populous and provisioned colonies often do as well, or better, without packing and protecting. A common winter covering is the banking of a hive in straw, leaves or litter. An outer case, with an air space between it and the hive, has more merit. The air space is sometimes filled with insulating material, such as cork, shavings or ehaff, but this practice is frequently considered by practical apiarists as the eause of too much condensation, and, consequently, dampening within the hive during long confinement. It must be recognized that within there is a living cluster of bees, actively transpiring and exhaling, which means that moisture is given off. If there is no escape it collects and runs down over the frames and bees. A cold night may later transform it into frost. The heat of the sun does not penetrate the excessive packing, thus there is refrigeration, rather than the desired conservation of heat. To be as near normal, natural conditions as possible, it would appear as though the much praetieed and liked method of wrapping hives in paper is to be preferred. Newspapers, over which is laid a water-proof building paper (some prefer tar paper), are brought down and pleated to the hive in order to prevent blowing off. Through this by day the sun can warm and help dry out the hive, and at night the heat within is retained. If desired, previous to wrapping in paper an empty super may be set over the brood chamber. In this a sack of cork ehips, dry leaves or shavings may be placed so as to act as an absorber for excessive moisture. Provision should be made, however, for the free passage of the bees over the tops of the frames and beneath the eshion by laying eleats crosswise on the frame top bars.
A common error is a too great contraction of the entrance, which results in retention of moisture and ultimate mildew or mold on the eombs. A strong colony should have a full width (14 by 1/2 inch) entrance. Weaker colonies may profit by proportional contraction by means of bloeks.
In some localities field mice cause considerable damage by building nests in the hives, gnawing and eating combs, pollen and dead bees. Access may easily be prevented by placing, early in the fall, a guard, composed of 1/2-inch mesh wire cloth, over the hive entrance, through which the bees pass readily.
Cellar wintering requires precision in eare, some equipment and experience. In a large apiary Massachusetts beekeepers will benefit by suceessfully wintering 95 per cent. to 100 per cent. of their colonies. The cost of a eellar will soon be overbalanced by saving in stores consumed and in the loss of colonies sometimes attending outdoor wintering. Limited space and the faet that this paper is intended for smaller beekeepers suggest that details be consulted in "A B C and X Y Z of Bee Culture," Root, 1910.
Hygiene of the Apiary.
_Broad Diseases of Bees._
American foul brood and European foul brood are the names of two distinct brood diseases of bees which until recently have had little consideration. in Massachusetts, yet their prevalence is proved to be general, and to have caused inestimable losses to the beekeepers and horticulturists. No one problem in apieulture is more vitally important, and yet, when understood, the most gratifying results can be obtained by treatment. It is not a crime, as some have thought, to find colonies diseased. As conditions have been in Massachusetts, the presence of disease was expected almost anywhere. It should be considered more disgraceful to allow disease to remain unsuppressed, so great are the infection and damages. Moreover, it is being demonstrated for the first time in the Commonwealth that brood diseases can be checked, that the treatment is not so radical and burdensome as has often been feared, and that whole beekeeping communities are benefiting more than they had anticipated. The earnest co-operation of every beekeeper is solieited in the interest of promoting Massachusetts apienlture.
An adequate description of the diseases, how to tell them and how to treat them, could not be undertaken in this limited space. It may be said, however, that every beekeeper should examine his brood from time to time, especially in the early summer. Healthy brood in unsealed cells is of a pearly white color, and the larva, a grnb or developing bee, is enroled in the cell and plump. If you do not find this appearance, but there is a yellowish, grayish, brownish or blackish and more or less shapeless mass, deeayed in the cells, or if the brood is irregular, the eappings discolored, sunken and perforated, there is reason to be suspicious. A colony which fails to build up, to hold its own, which does not respond to manipulation as it should, or one which dwindles early in the summer, affords reasons for being watched. The presence of the disease is not always apparent, unless a cell by cell examination is made.
The owner of bees should consider that it is his individual duty to watch and inspect his own colonies. While the State inspectors are endeavoring to visit the beekeeper, the progress of the work can be greatly furthered by the individual's efforts. Do not delay reporting to the State Inspector of Apiaries, Amherst, Mass., any case which is suspicious. A systematic effort will then be made, not only to assist the person so reporting and his neighbors, but to cheek and suppress the infection throughout the locality. In this way it has been possible already to clean up whole towns and even parts of counties.
If the reader has not obtained copies of the publications on this subject, mentioned below, they will be sent gratis. They contain the information which beekeepers need in order to successfully combat broad diseases.1
Footnote 1: "Broad Diseases of Bees, their Treatment and the Law for their Suppression in Massachusetts," Bulletin No. 1, Apiary Inspection, Massachusetts State Board of Agriculture. By Burton N. Gates, Ph.D., 1910. " The Treatment of Be Diseases," United States Department of Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin No. 442. By E. F. Phillips, Ph.D., 1911. A list of the other government publications on disease and beoe may be found in the last-mentioned paper.
General Hygiene.
In traveling among the beekeepers, the most urgent need for better sanitary conditions in the apiary has been found. This is not only true in districts where foul brood is being fought, but elsewhere, and even in the yards of beekeepers of long experience. This is partially due to the fact that it is no longer possible to praetiee some of the methods which were formerly considered wholesome and safe, and partially to the prevalence of diseases. Without attempting to elaborate, and, perhaps rather imperatively, but with the best intentions, the more important suggestions are made for bettering conditions in the apiary and in Massachusetts bekeeping: -- Try Italian stoek. Use a smoker and veil; own these. Transfer colonies from box hives. Keep down the weeds and grass in the apiary. Try to keep your colonies strong always. Use removable frames and do not nail these down. Contract the entranees of any weak colonies. Examine the brood in each colony at least two or three times in the early part of the season. Learn to look from cell to cell and into cells. Keep only as many colonies as you can attend to. The use of full sheets of foundation and wiring of the frames will be an advantage to most persons. Immediately, as a colony is found dead, close the entrance and remove the hive to a bee-tight building. Under no eireumstanees expose old eombs, sections and the like where bees can visit them. There is no economy in it; there is danger of robbing and of disease. Treat diseased colonies as soon as they are discovered. The longer the delay, the greater is the loss or labor. Make sure that colonies have ample stores for winter. Give them early spring attention. Seraps of wax, bits of combs, should never be left in the apiary or out of doors, not even for an hour or so. Have a covered box, can or barrel which is bee-tight and indoors. It pays to accumulate the wax. A limited space unfortunately excludes some fundamental pro cedure which might rightfully find place in this bullet, for which the beekeeper is referred to other publications.
" Swarm control," by no means satisfactorily settled, is, however, alluded to in the consideration of sequencing. " Handling and living swarms " is rather generally understood and discussed in most books. The time for " taking off surplus honey " may be said to be as soon as the honey is sealed or capped; yet beekeepers have individual preferences. " Increasing the honey crop " would be a profitable subject for consideration. These and other subjects could well comprise a bullet. " The Production and Care of Extraeted Honey " is treated by Dr. E. F. Phillips, Bulletin No. 75, Part 1, Bureau of Entomology, United States Department of Agriculture. The reader is urged to secure federal bulletins and to consult books and periodicals on beekeeping.
List of Bee Books.
_General._
Comstoek, Anna Botsford : " How to keep Bees." Langstroth, L. L.: " Hive and the Honey Bee," I853 (original edition); recent revised editions by Dadant.
Miller, Dr. C. C.: " Fifty Years among the Bees."
_Poetical, Literary and Historical._
Edwardes, Tickner : " The Lore of the Honey Bee." Materlinek, Mauriee : " The Hive of the Bee; " " The Swarm." Morley, Margaret W.: " Bee People; " " Honey Makers."
_Technical._
Root, E. R. and A. I.: " A B C and X Y Z of Bee Culture " (an encyclopedic work for specialists and experienced beekeepers, and the most comprehensive work in English).
Hutehinson, W. Z.: " Advanced Bee Culture." Cheshire, Frank : " Bees and Beekeeping " (two volumes, praetical and scientific, fast becoming out of date, but considered an important source book).
Von Buttel-Reeper, Dr. H.: " Are Bees Reflex Machines?" (translated from the German. All of this author's papers are exceedingly important from the scientific and even the praetical standpoint).
_Queen-rearing Papers._
Phillips, Dr. E. F.: " Queen Rearing," Bulletin No. 55, Bureau of Entomology, United States Department of Agriculture.
Doolittle, G. M.: " Seientifie Queen Rearing."_Bee Journals._
"American Bee Journal," Chicago, Ill.
"Beekeopers' Review," Detroit, Mich.
"British Bee Journal," Covent Garden, London, W. C.
"Canadian Bee Journal," Brantford, Ontario, Can.
"Gleanings in Bee Culture," Medina, O.
"L'Apieliteur," published 28 Rue Serpente, Paris (VI\({}^{ullet}\)).
**Cornell University Library**
**Sf 523.G259s**
**Some of the assertionals of hedgehog**
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See Culture
J. J. WILDER
CORDELE, GA.
Apiaries, Modern. 15
Apiary Work. 33
Appliances, Aplarian. 61--70
See Culture in General. 13
See-keeping, Pleasure in. 72
See-keeping, Profits in. 73, 74
See-keeping as a Side Issue. 74
See-keeping, Extensive. 75
See-keeping, Old Way of. 102
See-keeping in the South. 112
Beginning in Bee Culture. 17
Bees, Uniting. 80
Bees, Wintering. 81
Bees, Shade for. 83
Bees, Races of. 10
Bees, Black. 11
Bees, Italian. 11
Bees, Carnioan. 12
Bees, Caucasian. 12
Bees, Hybrid. 13
Bees, Buying. 18
Bees, Transferring. 20
Bees, Subduing. 30
Bees, Moving. 41
Bees in 'l'exas. 113
" in Oklahoma. 122
" in Arkansas. 123
" in Indian Territory 123
" in Mississippi. 124, 125
" in Louisiana. 127, 128
" in Tennessee. 129
" in Alabama. 130, 132
" in South Carolina. 133, 134
" in North Carolina. 137
" in Georgia. 137--139
" in Florida. 140--143
Cells, Capped and Uncapped. 7
Chunk Honey. 59
Colonie, Weak. 85
Comb, How Bees Build. 71
Diseases of Bees. 46
Economy in Bee-keeping. 71
Enemies of Bees. 72
My memory begins with standing in front of a colony of bees, with a brush-broom in hand; and until I was large enough to take interest in the apiary work, whenever I saw a colony of bees they commanded my attention, and my gratification was not appeased until I had seen the owner and questioned him (or her) concerning the bees; and many times I have been rebuked for continual questioning. At that time we were traveling in an oxwagon over Texas, where I saw much of the bee and honey industry, and my interest in the honey-bee grew deeper, and it is needless to say that driving a sleigh around over the wood while the bee-hunters were finding bee-trees, and cutting them, was the joy of my boyhood days. Whenever bees were robbed in the settlement I was always on hand, ready to take part. I soon became a bee-hunter myself, and all spare moments were spent at this; and many times I have looked up trees on Saturday evenings (for it was about all the leisure time I had) so constantly that I would have a "crick" in my neck and all the following week. Many times I have cut and robbed rich bee-trees, and no one with me to share the pleasure.
Besides looking after bees for others we established an old-style box-hire apiary (for it was the best we could do then, for there was no better hive known to us.
I took a leading interest in this apiary, and a few times we had a good apiary established. Then they would die back to only a few colonies, and I did all I could to save them. Finally one spring we had only one hive left, and later in the spring I turned it bottom end up and found it a mass of moth. I went down in the pine thicket and sat down beside a tree and took a long cry over the death of the last colony, and then and there I resolved that, if I ever had another start of bees, I would give them even more and better attention.
Then I tried to buy another start of bees, but failed. I found many bee-trees, but failed in saving the bees; so for several years we had no bees, and farm life was not what it once was to me; for when we had the apiary I would spend my leisure moments at noon under the shady mulberry-trees where it was located, doing all I knew how to help the bees, and I would watch the little streams of them as they would pour in and out of the hives, and listen at night to their heavy roar. But now this inspiration was a thing of the past, and farm life had lost its greatest charm to me.
Several years elapsed, and I looked after bees only for others.
Finally a widow lady gave me a colony for giving her bees such good attention. One cold winter night I carried the hive of bees home. The bees were in an old-style box hive, so badly decayed on one side at the bottom thatI had to brace it with two sticks to keep it from tumbling over. I made some crude movable-frame hives (for I had not yet seen a patent movable-frame hive). With this outfit I began bee-keeping anew, studying them by handling them on their combs. My bee business began to grow; and after keeping bees thus for several years I heard of a bee-keeper who had bought some patent factory-made hives. I paid him a visit at once, and I saw that the hives were just what I needed, so I bought a lot of them. Next season I transferred my bees into them. From the old crude hives I transfered bees; and what I had on hand extra, furnished me fuel during the summer and following winter.
From the old decayed box hive my bee business has spread until bee-keeping is my business or sole occupation. Besides establishing five apiaries of my own around in this section (as many bees as I can give proper attention to), I have furnished foundation stock from which many apiaries have been established in various sections of the South from the old mother hives.
The ups and downs I had during this time, I have not space to describe in this small volume.
If there is such a thing as a man being called to do certain work, I have been called to the field of bee culture, for I feel out of my calling at any thing else. Although I have mastered no little at eight other occupations, yet I feel more as if I am at my allotted work when I am among my bees than I do at any other of my trades.
I have applied myself to bee-keeping in almost every conceivable manner, keeping colonies of bees in glass hives in my bedroom and on my veranda, keeping close and constant watch on them by day and by night. I have operated bees successfully and extensively for extracted chunk and comb honey in sections; I have traveled to and fro across the South, investigating bee-keeping and the honey-plants in many sections; and if I did not know that there is a great future for the bee and honey industry here I would not attempt to write this book. While methods of apiary work and bee-keeping differ in sections and locations, I hope to give you at least some practical thoughts along bee-keeping in your own location.
Honey-bees are necessary and profitable insects, and possess many interesting and beautiful traits to be studied and learned. Their nature, habits, and field of work furnish a broad and interesting field of thought for those who love nature-study.
Their culture gives to man perhaps the most fascinating and healthiest pursuit known. The more any one studies them and works among them, the deeper his interest will grow in their culture, and the more interesting it will be, for he is not likely to give up bee-keeping entirely if he does not embark upon it too extensively.
The roar of the honey-bee over our heads as they prey upon the blossom of certain trees in the forest is inspiring; and to watch the little stream of bees as they pour in and out of the hive is interesting, as it furnishes us inspiration. I have often seen very old people sit in the shade about the apitary and watch the bees as they passed to and fro. It furnished them an inspiration, and interested them when nothing else could.
Then to remove the cover of the hive and see what their little masterly hands have accomplished is simply wonderful; and the observant person can not help sympathizing with them in the undertaking and accomplishing of the great tasks, and, at the same time, reflect back to the creation and Creator of all things.
The honey-bee's nature, habits, source, and manner of living, and its mission in the world, prove it to be the most marvelous insect of all the insect world.
Traly the honey-bee is worthy of the title "the most industrious of all living objects."
It is often said that bees work for nothing and board themselves. I do not know whether this is a true saying or not; but I will say it is true where they receive no attention or culture.
A normal colony of bees is composed of three kinds of bees--a queen, the workers, and the drones.
We will first consider the queen from the time she is hatched until she has an army of her own bees around her. Worker bees can develop a queen-bee from a fertile egg of any queen. A.fertile queen is one which has encountered a drone-bee (the male bee), and will lay two kinds of eggs--fertile and unfertile. The fertile eggs will produce workers or queen-bees. The unfertile eggs will produce only drones. Just how it is that a queen-bee laying fertile eggs can all at once stop laying them and go to laying unfertile, is a question yet unsolved by scientists; but in some unknown way she passes the eggs out without their coming in contact with the germs of the drone.
There is no one who has handled bees who has not noticed the tiny elongated white eggs of queens sticking endwise in the bottom of the cells, in the center of the comb, or wherever the bees are rearing their young or brood-nest, as it is called. The queen deposits these eggs there by inserting her abdomen down into the cells, and in a moment the egg is laid, and her abdomen is drawn out and inserted into another cell, and on she goes over the comb, laying from one thousand to three thousand eggs each day during the height of egg-laying, which is nearly twice her weight in eggs, every 24 hours.