BEE-spoke-data/bees-v0 huggingface dataset:
Personally I have no faith in patent swarm self-hiving hives, and believe it to be money wasted to purchase them; nor have I amy patience with those who offer to sell secrets for $1 about "How to to join them in flight, is found hopping about in the grass in front of the hive and can be caged until several later.
No attention then need be paid to the swarm, for though they may go a mile from home and chaster on a tree, and a neighbour shake them into a hive, they are sure to return as soon as they discover that their queen is not with them, and for this return you should make ready.
After the swarm has gone, take the hive ant \(i\) which it came and carry it to some other location if in-crease is desired, and in its place put on the old sam an empty hive with frames, founding, etc. and where the swarm returns it will immediately seek the old location and begin to enter the hive, the neighbor shake them into a hive, they are sure to return as soon as they discover that their queen is not with them, and for this reason, it will not be a hive and can be caged until several later.
The clipped queen can be picked up with naked fingers, she will not sting; but be careful not to injure her, so she is very tender and delicate at this time, being filled with eggs.
A pair of curved manicure-seissers are about the best thing with which to clip a queen's wings. It can be done at one clip, as she moves slowly over the combs, without even touching her with the hands or without fear of cutting off a leg as often happens when ordinary seismers are used.
Swarm Control, or How to Prevent Swarming -I confuses that I feel like the majority of beekers when I say that it causes me to pleasure to have my bees swarm, and for this reason many methods and devices have been employed by me to prevent it which it came.
The beekerer who has several out anaries is often worried with the thought that some of his bees remote from home may swarm and the swarm get away, as it hardly pays to keep a man on watch all the times, so there has been much discussion at the different bee conventions as to how to control swarming, for in rare instances only has it been entirely prevented. Sometimes in spite of all even den a swarm will necessarily come out, but we are able to keep it in bounds so that it ceases to be a nuisance.
Some of the things used to control swarming have to do with the hive nest, while others have to do with its manipulation.
Generally I have no ninth in patent swarm self-ingen can be gently dropped upon the entrance hivees, and believe it to be money wasted to purchase them; nor have I am patience with those swimm "hives itself," without a lot of worry and climbing on the part of its owner.
Attract Swarms," for in most instances the so-called secret simply says to place a lot of empty hives in the woods, first rubbing their inner sides with anise-seed oil and tacking a little red flag to each hive to notify passing swarms that here is a home. Experience has shown that a dollar given up for this or any other so-called bee secret, but illustrates the truth of the adage which says, "The tool and his money are soon period,"
Swarming can largely be controlled by using large hives, giving them a wide entrance for ventilation, and by giving added storage room for the surplus honey as it is ganti-cred; this is the "secret" if it can be called such. In addition to this it is a good practic to cut out all queen cells that have been started, not over-looking even one, and giving more room to the colony.
The foregoing method has proved very successful where extracted now is produced, for the constant extension of the honey from the combs as soon as they are filled and sealed, keeps the colony from being crowded for room.
When it comes to the production of comb-honey it is not so easy a matter, for the combs are not extracted but must be left on the hive till finished, and this fact causes bees kept for comb-honey to swarm more than those kept for extracted honey. Adding storage boxes, cutting out queen cells, ventilation, and shade, will in a measure tend to keep swarming within bounds when producing comb-honey, but even then it will constantly be a menace, especially in the out apiaries, and this is why most out apiaries are run on the extracted plan.
There is, however, a method for controlling swarming even when working for comb-honey, and it is what is known as the "Shock" or "shaken swarm" plan, and simply swarms the colony artificially, at the beekeeper's convenience, and not when it suits the bees. The plan is as follows: A few days before a colony swarms, having first shown signs of an intention so to do, remove it to one side of its stand, and in place of it put on the old stand a hive exactly like it, filled with frames with nothing but narrow starters of foundation in them, under no circumstances using full foundation or combs. The bees from the old colony are then shaken from their combs on to the entrance of the entrance board of the new hive; and if the weather is warm, almost all it not all of the bees can be shaken or brushed from the combs of the old hive.
The surplus bodies of the old hive are placed on top of the new hive, being sure to place a queen excluding board between the hive body and the surplus bodies to confine the queen to the starters below. Having no combs in the brood body in which to store their honey, the bees will store it in the supers with a vin, just where the beekeeper wants it.
In some localities where the flow is short this plan will insure a good crop where otherwise such a surplus would be impossible. If increase is wanted, the old colony can be remo- it, to a new location and a queen given to it. If no increase is desired, the old hive can be left standing beside the new hive, and, as the brood hatches, the bees
from it can every few days he shaken in front of the new hive, being careful to cut out all queen cells from the old hive for the first ten days.
When all the bees have been shaken from the old combs after they have all hatched, the combs can be cut from the trains and melted into less-swears and a hand-swears and a hand-swears return received from them; then when cutting them out, he sure to leave about an inch of combs attached to the top layer of each train, and so it will serve for some years. The next seven minutes are used for shaking bees on to them in another hive.
For comb-bores the foregoing plan is without a peer. Those who advocate it say that it prevents swarming because the shaking it the bees in iron is from oil the new hive continues the bees that they have swamped, and thus arrives the fever. This is wrong; the reason they do not swarm is simply because a colony will seldom swarm from a hive until that live is filled with combs in the broad nest, and by the time they have drawn the starves out to fill combs the flow is usually over and the swarming, too.
Some backeevers practise dequeeing their colonies just before swarming, and by cutting out all queen cells a few days before, prevent it. While the absence of the given under this method means a cessation of broad rearing during this period, yet its adviscates claim that there is no real loss, as the bees that would be reared during this time would cause on after the flow is over and be consumers. Although this is true, yet I know that a colony will work with more energy with a lying queen than without one.
Mr. In, A. Aspirwall, of Jackson, Mich., has in a quiet way for the test twelve years been carrying on some experiments with a nice of peculiar construction for comb-bores, and during all that period has never had a swarm, and has produced large surplus through ability to keep the entire working force in the hive.
These hives are not on the market yet and may not be for some years, but my opinion is that they will eventually be universally adopted. The frames are closed-end ones, and where the combs and the same frames are used for shaking bees on to them in another hive.
For comb-bores the foregoing plan is without a peer. Those who advocate it say that it prevents swarming because the shaking it the bees in iron is from the new hive continues the bees that they have swamped, and thus arrives the fever. This is wrong; the reason they do not swarm is simply because a colony will seldom swarm from a hive until that live is filled with combs in the broad nest, and by the time they have drawn the starves out to fill combs the flow is usually over and the swarming, too.
These hives are not on the market yet and may not be for some years, but my opinion is that they will eventually be universally adopted. The frames are closed-end ones, and where the combs and the same frames are used for shaking bees on each of four hive is slated, which permits a clustering space for the colony when crowded, and set the state prevent the bees from holling burr or brace combs, which they certainly would build were the space left open, just before the swarming seems, these broad frames are spread apart and between each of them is slipped a slated dimming frame of the same size, which gives additional clustering space in the hive, and as the frame so inserted has no comb in it, but is filled with slats just a bee space apart, it enables the backeeper to give the colony all the room it needs and removes the crowding that produces the swarming.
## Appendix C Comb and Extracted Honey
_A little theory now and there is related to the best of now._
-Resolved Porebush.
Having satisfied his bee fever by the possession of some bees, and having satisfy brought them through the winter and by careful management made the colony strong for the honey flow; the beginner is ready to make preparations for a crop of honey.
If the object is to produce comb-honey, the super chem.
b.e.s. with
s.e.t. in a.s
in a.s.t. be
read.y. to
place upon
the colony as
seen as the
b.e. to
store. in a.s.t. with
the _broad_
frames, which can be easily determined by seeing when the comulse are being captured over with new white wax. Generally speaking, shunt the early part of May, or during apple bloom, is the proper time to place the upper stories, on one at a time.
Under all circumstances use full sheets of super foundation in the little section boxes, as the bees will enter them much more readily than if only starters are used. Fasten each sheet in securely by aid of one of the listeners sold for that purpose, leaving just a little space at the bottom of the section box to allow for sagging.
When the super is filled with sections properly
If the flow continues, it is possible to place as many as four supers at a time on a strong colony, adding them only as needed.
As soon as the combs are capped over remove them at once; nothing is gained by leaving them on till the end of the season, as they become travel-stained and the white caps unsightly.
The best way to take the supers of its to place a board with a Porter bee-scape in it between the hive body and the supers, and in twenty-four hours the bees will have gone through it below and the supers can then be taken off without the bees to bolter.
Some beekeepers simply blow clouds of smoke down through the supers and in this way drive the bees below, but it is a poor practise and is open to the objection that it makes the bees uncap some of the cells to fill up with honey.
When removed, the sections should be scraped of any propolisis or bee-glue that has been deposited on the little boxes and the honey placed in a warm, dry place where the bees can not get at it. Under no circumstances store it in the cellar or other cool place, for this will make the surfaces of the combs sweat and drip, but store it in the kitchen pantry or in the site, as these are admirable places.
Much could be written on this phase of honey production, but it would only tend to confuse; and experience proves the foregoing method to be the best.
Extraction Honey.--In the production of extracted honey the method is in some respects similar to that used in comb production, only instead of using a 'unger containing small section boxes, full hive bodies are used.
**By all means use a ten-frame five in producing extracted honey, as it gives larger storage space and the hives do not have to be tered up so high.**
**As soon as the same conditions prevail in the brood nest as in the case of preparing for combiners, place over the hive body an extracting super, or full-sized hive body fitted with frames of comb; or if these are not on hand, frames with full sheets of foundation (being sure that the combs or foundation are wired in to prevent their being torn from the frames in the extractor).**
**Between the hive body and the extracting super be sure to place a queen excluding in board (which is a piece of zinc with per-soriorients in sufficiently large to per-sorients to pre-pas through up into the super, but too small to allow the queen to pass through), for should the explanation of the explanation of the mechanism.**
**broad in the extracting super it will be in the way when in the extractor, and fiable to be thrown out. (Non: A queen excluding board should also be used when producing comb-honey.)**
**Perhaps the majority of beekeepers use but one extracting super on a hive at a time, extracting as often as filled, but it will be well to have an extra one handy for each hive in case of a heavy flow, or to leave on for the thorough ripening of the honey.**
**The time to extract is when about two-thirds of the cells in the frames are capped over, although some beekeepers leave the supers on till the end of the season, claiming that the honey ripens better, but I have never seen any advantage in so doing; most bee men extract as soon as ready, usually twice or offenter as occasion requires.**
**A good practise to extract during the early and the latter part of July when the clover flow is over and then again in the fall after the fall flow, for in so doing the clover honey, which is lighter in color and of a more delicate flag,**
**over than the fall**
**house, is kept separate and is sold for a higher price. (This applies also to comb-honey.)**
**W. n
until all the honey is extracted, when they are returned to their hive again, either immediately or at the close of the day when bees are not flying. Extractors are two, four or eight-frame size, but unless one has an apjary of fifty or more colonies a two-frame extractor will suffice, although there are advantages in having a four-frame one, as it extracts more frames for the same amount of work. A piece of cheese-cloth may be tied over the honey gate at the bottom of the extractor and the honey can be run into keps, cans or buckets as extracted, and scaled up to keep it away from the bees. Great care should be exercised, however, to see that the extracting room is kept tight, or a good case of robining may be developed.
Many beelevers store their extracted honey in sixty-bound cans, two of which come in a case; and although this is a very satisfactory way of storing and shipping extracted honey, these cans are quite expensive; they cost eighty cents for a case of two.
Other honey producers buy from the manufacturers half-barrel keps holding one hundred and sixty pounds of honey. These keps can be bought, delivered to the bekeeper, for about forty cents each, and being new the honey is not contaminated. The various styles of honey packages will be further discussed under the chapter on Marketing Honey. It is a question as to how many frames of comb should be in the extracting super, but it is a good plan not to have the super crowded with is many as it would take if used for a brood body. If the super is a ten-frame one it will be a good thing to put eight frames in it and spread them well apart, so that the bees will have plenty of room to cluster and store honey; by so doing the combs will be fat and, when uncapped, provide a good surplus of beeswax from the caps and combs.
## Chapter 3 Queen Rearing and Introducing
"_A dev has the right to have the best of assertions; should will rely."_
While it is true that the majority of bekeepers prefer to buy from queen breeders what quens they need, yet a great many rear their own quens, especially if they have a great hon.
cy - p o d'eating strain of b e e s which they desire to perpetuate.
I if it to themselves as a colony would enter quensens only at the swarming season, advertising calls, currency money to hectrix or when made (capture notes) quencels, or when about to supersede an old queen that shows signs of failing.
When a colony casts a swarm it will generally be found that there are a number of nice cells left in the live from which they swarmed, and as these cells are built under the most favorable conditions they are generally the best. To let the colony tear down the surplus ones when the first virgin queen hatches would be the height of folly, as a little care will result in securing some of the very best quen's imagitable.
To do this, cut out every cell but one, being (61).
"_A decade the right to have the best of assertions; that will rely._"
While it is true that the majority of bekeepers prefer to buy from queen breeders what quens they need, yet a great many rear their own quens, especially if they have a great non-
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strain of b e e s
which they desire
to perpetuate.
If it is then there-
selves a colony
would rear quens
only say at b e
swarning season, surprise, or even waive to receive
or when made
quencies or when about us supersede an old
quencest that shows signs of failures.
When a colony casts a swarm it will generally be found that there are a number of nice cells left in the hive from which they warranted, and as these
cells are built under the most favorable conditions
they are generally the best. To let the colony
test down the surplus ones when the first virgin
quench hatches would be the height of folly, as a
title care will result in assuring some of the very best quens imaginable.
To do this, cut out every cell but one, being
(a)careful not to open or crush the cell in so doing, then place each cell in a West cell **prolector and** stick the protector on the comb of some st \(\mathrm{r\,\mathrm{o\,\mathrm{n\,g}}}\) colony, and when it hatches in a few days the queen can be mated from a small nucleus or else given as a virgin to increase, or to a queenless colony and allowed to mate from her permanent home. In this way a nice lot of queens can be reared each season to supply the needs of the yard.
If a considerable complex number of queens are needed, it will be necessary to use some inexpensive appliances for the purpose, and then they can be reared in unlimited numbers.
First select a strong colony and **take** from it their queen, and in about two days it will be ready to begin cell building. Then **from that** colony, or some other, select a frame of broad or more than three days old, and with a small grafting needle gently lift one of the large from its cell and place it in the little artificial cup made for the purpose.
After a number of these have been grafted, place them in the frames made for such purpose, and deposit the frame of cell cups in the center of the queensics colony. In about fourteen days take the cells from the frames, put each one in a little cage by itself and fill a frame full of these cages and return to the queenless colony, or any colony having a queen, as the cages protect the cells, and all that they require at this period is the heat of the colony; when they hatch they are ready for introduction as origins, or to be placed in little mating boxes until mated.
Personally, I advocate giving to such colonies as need t the em. virgin process, as they are more readily accepted, and 1 thus avoid the trouble of looking after a lot of little mating boxes.
Mr. E. L. Pratt, of **Swarthmore**, Pa., is the originator of the **Swarthmore** queen-rearing system, which has proved a great success in the hands of those who have tried it, its simplicity rendering it effective even in the hands of a beginer.
If from any cause a colony has become queenless the condition can be remedied by giving the colony a frame of young eggs and permitting them
to rear their own queen. As this involves a wait and loss of brood, a good many prefer to rear or buy quencs and give them one at once.
If the quencs are bought, the directions for introducing are printed on the mailing box in which they arrived; but for the benefit of those who prefer raising them, I will describe two methods of introduce-tion that have proved to be the best.
W.e.t. the e.t. the e.t. a.e.e.t. has been reared or bought, she should be taken in the little introducing or mailing cage and (with honey candy sufficient to keep her, stored in the box) placed between two frames of breed or bees in the colony which she is to be given. Of course it is understood that the colony to which she is to be introduced is at the time quenchesis, and has been so far at least three or four days or even longer.
This honey candy is made by mixing to a stiff dough some extracted honey and pulverized sugar. The candy fills up the space between the queen and the little hole in the cage through which she is to escape, and by the time the bees have eaten away the candy so that she can get out, she will have acquired the seat of the colony and will be accepted, as the odor of their hice is the only means by which the bees know their queen. In a few days-she will be found walking over the combs, laying, when the cage can be taken out for good.
too much is worse than too little), and then puff a few shifts on the queen in the cage, and gently drop her on top of the frames,--and in a jiffy it is done.
I use this method exclusively and seldom lose a queen, with the advantage of having her introduced at once; in fact, I have taken a queen from a colony and in five minutes introduced another in this way.
Quencelessness is too serious a loss to a colony to be allowed to continue, and upon its discovery should be remedied at once. It may be discovered in several ways.
One way is to examine the combs, and if there is no broad or eggs present it is reasonable to suppose that the queen is gone, although sometimes you will be fooled--as in the case of a hive having a virgin that has not yet begun to lay.
Not finding the broad, then look over the combs for her majisety, and if careful search fails to reveal her, it is pretty certain that the colony is quenceless.
Unless young eggs are given to them or a new queen provided, there is danger that they will introduce a laying worker, with disastrous consequences to themselves. They will select one of the workers and led her stimulative food, and she will lay, but all of her eggs will prove to be denoised and the eggs will be deposited irregularly over the comb, sometimes as many as three in a cell.
In most cases, giving the colony some young brood will make them raise a queen, and the laying worker will quit. But sometimes they will refuse to rear a queen from the brood given, and will even kill a queen given them; in which case it will be well to move the hive now depleted in numbers, and on its stand place a strong colony: taking the quencels colony a few yards away and shaking the bees off in the air, when they will return to the colony on their stand, and, if the honey flow is on, will be allowed to enter and go to work. The laying worker, if she enters, that hive or any other, will be put to death by the workers.
It would be impossible in this brief treatise to go extensively into the question of queen rearing, as there are a number of books on the subject; but I have outlined enough to enable the average beeeper to go ahead and rear the best of quencels.
two much is worse than two little), and then puff a few shifts on the queen in the cage, and gently drop her on top of the frames,--and in a jiffy it is done.
I use this method exclusively and seldom lose a-queen, with the advantage of having her introduced at once; in fact, I have taken a queen from a colony and in five minutes introduced another in this way.
Quenclassness is too serious a loss to a colony to be allowed to continue, and upon its discovery should be remedied at once. It may be discovered in several ways.