text: Unassumingly set in the back corner of the Town and Country Mall and demarcated by a sign simply reading Italian Restaurant I will start out by saying that even if Bianco had chosen to put his name on the space it would have been tricky to find but the fact that it goes under such a generic moniker almost seems to reinforce the fact that the chef is not trying to rest on his name alone but instead to focus on the food he holds dear With rustic signage and large glass windows looking into the open kitchen there is not a shred of evidence that this is a celebrity chef restaurant and really if one did not know any better they could walk right by without paying the space a second thoughtnnWith the time just before pm and lunch hours till I walked through the doors to find the interior largely similar to the outdoors and with the kitchen behind a small bar to the right and three other couples seated amidst the unmatched chairs and old wooden tables to the left the feeling was instantly anything but that of another Arizona shopping center Working on a small crew of three during the late lunch hours I stood for a moment at the hostess stand before being greeted by the Chef who introduced himself as Rob and suggested I take any seat I like eventually settling on a cozy twotop beneath one of the ceiling fans as the room was a bit warmer than I would prefer Settled in and with my books in hand it would not be long before I was greeted by Hillary the sole server for the afternoon who presented the item menunnWith a vibe that speaks to a sleepy Italian villa from the shabby chic seating to paintings straight out of the hands of Italian street artists I spent a few moments perusing the menu before Hillary returned and with iced water in hand and the chef agreeable to my gnocchi request it would not be long before a plate of Pane Bianco Bread with Olive Oil would arrive from the kitchen and after a short conversation with my server about what I was reading I turned my attention to the crusty yeasted roll that while good on its own was vastly improved by ample use of the grassy and slightly fruited oilnnMoving next to my special request I really did not know what to expect from the preparation as it was simply listed as Potato Gnocchi with Arizona Sweet Corn and Zoes Pancetta but seeing as how I love all three ingredients I figured it would be good no matter what little did I know that it would be the best gnocchi I have had in my life Beginning first with the potato dumplings each of the little balls was hand cut light as a cloud and literally melt in the mouth tender even after a quick sear in the pan but moving past the obvious pasta skills of the restaurant what truly put this dish over the top was the ragua sort of half roasted corn kernelhalf creamed corn imbued with cream and smoky notes from the pork amalgam absolutely teaming with both sweet and savory notes So simple so rustic and yet so perfect I simply cannot say enough about this dishthe one that finally unseeded Marc Vetris year stranglehold on the best version of my very favorite pastannAs I swooned over each bite of the gnocchi Hillary kept my water filled and stopped by repeatedly to check in and find out when I was ready for my sandwich and although I was sad to see the gnocchi go I was happy to see the HouseMade Mozzarella with Prosciutto Di Parma sandwich arrive in the same vivid glory as the one from a month prior at Pane Again focused on bucolic simplicity and flawless ingredients it would be hard to find fault in this sandwich or its accompanying fennel and lettuce salad in a light vinaigrette but as good as the Prosciutto was I could not help but think I liked the tomato slightly betterthough I bet a version with all three would be stunningnnAt this point quite full and with dinner plans that would turn out to be quite extensive Hillary stopped by and boxing up half of my sandwich asked if I would like desserta suggestion I nearly declined until her smiling description of the Asian Pear Crostata sold me that it was something I should probably just go with and go with it I did a bargain basement for superlative poached pear served over a rustic butter pastry and topped with vanilla infused cream Light delicate and much like the pasta and the sandwich a perfect evidence of what one should expect from all of Biancos restaurantsperfect ingredients largely unmanipulated and prepared just enough to extract maximal flavor nnA charming space with lovely service and food that speaks to everything I love about Italian it would be hard for me to find a single bad thing to say about Italian Restaurant and with an offer to stay and study as long as I liked the only thing that kept me from lingering at N th St was the fact that it was a little too warm for such a full stomachit made me feel like I needed a nap yet another sign of a very successful meal I will be back no doubt