d'Anatra Bollita con Sale Grosso e Mostarda -- got it? This was a boiled thigh of goose and so  again we have the Austrian roots showing through with ducks and geese now being reared in the region these last 3-4 decades. The soft 'mostarda' was made from long cooked quince with a hint of chilli. Licie, Emanuela and I talked about availability of geese in England for this dish.  They were double shocked -- first by the price (around anything from 60-80 a bird) and their absolute seasonality -- now the geese are being finished for Christmas, so a rare find in the butcher's shop even if one ordered one specially. Cross the Channel, I explained, and I could bring home a goose given producers there are getting into full swing for the festive foie gras season. The other Secondo was a smoked pork fillet (Austrian influence yet again) -- Filetto di Maiale Affumicato con Dadolata di Zucchine e Verdure alla Granella di Pistacchio -- the latter being evidence of the exotic spice and food trade that came to Europe through Venice -- the main port +1000 years ago serving the region as a gateway to the Spice & Silk Routes. Despite the overly long descriptors this was clever food and not in any way pretentious. In London we are surrounded by the latter as if as a justification for the astral prices. The director was not to be seen on the first day. I'd never seen the place so