staff glide about in elegant gowns. Mid-afternoon, near the rear of the lobby bar, an orchestra performs. The hotel is one of Imelda's modern-day haunts and it is easy to imagine her holding court here, entertaining dignitaries and socialites. But I find it impossible to ignore the struggles of the city's poorest. Manila heaves with a population of 20 million and the country's low wages result in hundreds of thousands forced to live in slums. Yet for all the hardship, the city is alive with spirit. Filipinos seem to be beacons of optimism and resilience, and are often described as the happiest people in the world. To my surprise, there is not as much animosity as I expected towards the Marcoses. "Imelda? Oh, she's a crazy old woman," a taxi driver tells me on the way to Silverlens Gallery. I have a ticket to see a stage performance about Imelda, inspired by one of the city's most popular walking tours. The Livin' La Vida Imelda tour is run by gregarious guide Carlos Celdran. Usually taking place inside the CCP, Celdran's account of the Philippines in recent decades highlights the triumphs and scandals of the Iron Butterfly's life, charting her rise from the provinces to beauty queen to first lady. Witty and with razor-sharp humour, Livin' La Vida Imelda is a hilarious show, backed by a disco soundtrack and a troupe of performance artists - including a male actor who minces about the stage dressed as Imelda, resplendent in a pink