cinnamon and brown sugar. Stir the flour, sugar and salt together in pie pan. Blend in milk and oil with a spoon, and then with your hands. Press evenly by hand over the bottom of the pie plate and work the dough up the sides and to the edge. Flute the edges slightly with your fingers. Add your filling and bake. -- Darryl McGrath So Many Wines . . . Although you're too hip to confine yourself to hidebound holiday tradition, chances are that a roasted turkey will grace your Thanksgiving table, making it the main item you'll be looking to pair with wine. It welcomes a broad array of styles, with what may be some surprises. Todd Yutzler, who owns Delmar's Delaware Plaza Wine and Liquor, suggests a dry ros as an option, "like Tavel from the south of France. And a dry Riesling has an excellent acidity and marries well with turkey and mashed potatoes." Jim Nejaime, who owns Spirited in Lenox, Mass., advises that there's a Riesling "that's dry and gorgeous from Freiherr von Schleinitz estates in Germany's Mosel region. Domestic Rieslings aren't as dry, but there are excellent ones coming out of Washington." "I try to promote New York state wines," says Yutzler. "Lafayette Reneau on Seneca Lake has a dry Riesling, as does Hermann Wiemer. But, changing grapes for a moment, I especially like the Rkatsiteli that Dr. Frank produces in the Finger Lakes. It has a great mix of sweetness and acidity. He also