that one has Philippe and Christophe to act as concierge services, and one cannot ask for more. For two summers in a row we have stayed on Quai d'Anjou, bordering the Right Bank, with a magnificent view over the Seine. The building we stayed in was built in the 1640s and features an iron gate leading into a small, charming courtyard from which one enters the building. Our apartment last year was a charming studio (our son and girlfriend stayed there this year) which we loved, equipped with washer/dryer, microwave, and so on -- and atmosphere galore. Our apartment this year (we needed more room as we had a friend traveling with us who slept on a very comfy sleeper sofa) was a floor above the studio, with a loft bedroom, dishwasher, washer/dryer, microwave, and, best of all, an intimate, flower-box-bordered terrace from which to enjoy a glass of wine, beer, or cocktails -- with a view of the Seine to die for. A gorgeous arrangement of fresh flowers and comfy terrycloth robes awaited us on our arrival. For the price of a good or very good hotel, an apartment through Guest Apartment Services on the Ile St. Louis provided us with the independence of our "own" residence in a section of the city that, truly, cannot be equaled for charm and atmosphere. We could walk to wonderful bakeries, cheese shops, spirit shops, cafes -- and enjoy bread, cheese, and wine in our own home away from home when the