seems to be the preferred activity of most guests. Also, Wright can't imagine Hayman without children. What started as an upmarket, exclusive enclave has evolved into a family resort, though one for well-heeled families. After buying the resort in 2004, the island's owner, Mulpha Australia, spent $2.5 million on a new kids' club. At the risk of stating the obvious, any resort that is 20 years old needs careful scrutiny and lots of TLC in the shape of bucket loads of money. Mulpha Australia is part of a Malaysian company that has the InterContinental Sydney, Hyatt Regency Sanctuary Cove and the Melbourne Airport Hilton in its international portfolio and has pledged its long-term commitment and plenty of cash to the resort. The pool wing has been painted, the beachfront restaurant, Azure, was recently updated and there's $8 million set aside for next year's refreshments - as the island's literature likes to describe the renovations - and that's on top of the ongoing maintenance budget. In a successful move, Hayman brought in international spa consultants Spa Chakra to manage its facility. There's more to come. One thing Qualia won't be able to replicate is the landing process. The ride to Hayman remains one of its main attractions. Nothing beats boarding the Sea Goddess, one of the resort's four launches, for the hour-long trip from Hamilton to Hayman - though arriving at a private jetty on Wild Oats might come close. FAST FACTS Getting there Virgin Blue flies to Hamilton Island via