waist-line on the cross-grain. (The cross grain goes across the fabric, at right angles to the selvedge, or woven edge of the fabric.) Figure 8: the cut broche. Once cut, I like to prepare the CB panels first. Stitch a series of lines to create a boning channel, eyelet/grommet channel, and a final boning channel (figure 9). Either mark these out in advance, or use the edge of the presser-foot and/or gauge on your sewing machine to create nice straight lines.You need to make these channels as wide as is suitable for your preferred width/thickness of flat steel bones. Stitch a couple of test channels first on a scrap piece and make sure your flat steel runs through them smoothly but snugly. Figure 9: Stitching channels down the CB panel. Construction: The Seams Now we are ready to begin stitching the seams, with the wrong sides together. You may pin or baste your pieces together before stitching each seam, but if your seams are trued (ie they match properly, as a commercial pattern should) it can be possible to simply match up the top edges and guide the seams through the machine without securing first. Figure 10 shows the CF panel and right-hand panel 2 being stitched. Figure 10: Stitching the first seam. As I go along, each seam is pressed open (figure 11). The seams are stitched with the fabric edges to the outside (ie: wrong sides together) as the seam allowances are going to be covered by exterior