to have male clients. The recession may have made people more afraid of ageism costing them their jobs, he suggests, but, "Men's grooming has always been there. In the past, you'd have somebody to shave you every day, or to cut your hair and put oil in it." He doesn't colour the grey in his own hair, which is spreading apace. "It's ageing," he admits. "We're not all George Clooney. But I've never really coloured to cover grey. I haven't got time for the upkeep." Game on: Oliver Thring joins a partridge shoot Everything but the turkey: Best Christmas trimmings What makes a cracking Christmas meal? It's all in the details, says Christopher Hirst, who has chomped his way through a mountain of supermarket and specialist food Bangkok reigns supreme for street food Every city in the world is now getting in on the street-food act, but Bangkok is still the best, says John Brunton Can you cook perfect fried chicken at home? The vogue for fried chicken has us all lusting after crispy wings, but is it achievable at home? Armed with a thermometer and some expert tips, Samuel Muston takes the plunge. Cabin fever: Cabane  Sucre There is a wooden house in the middle of Canada's snowy countryside where food of such sublime richness is served that getting a table there is more difficult than at a Michelin-starred city restaurant Christmas uncorked: The finest reds and whites Anthony Rose reveals his festive guide, from the best party red