texture and is the closest thing to the tilapia she ate in Peru last year. Martin Morales, the man behind the appropriately-named Ceviche in Soho, suggests "dover sole or other white fish" , Tom Aikens recommends sea bream in his fish cookbook, and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and Nick Fisher suggest black bream or sea bass in The River Cottage Fish Book noting, like Henrietta, that "firm, well-muscled varieties such as bream and bass are ideal ... but we have had good results with gurnard and pollack as well". Elisabeth Luard, author of The Latin American Kitchen, calls for salmon in a recipe I clipped out of Waitrose Food Illustrated years ago and have been using ever since, and olive magazine uses a mixture of plaice and salmon. I find the salmon too strong a flavour: it's nice, but it doesn't take on the flavour of the lime and spices in the same way as the white fish. Plaice and sole, meanwhile, seem a little dry and flaky once marinated. The bass and bream get the universal thumbs up: as Henrietta suggested, they stand up well to the acid, remaining juicy throughout. To dice or slice? Tom Aikens recipe ceviche. Photograph: Felicity Cloake The cut is also important, and suggestions range from largeish (3x2cm chunks) from Morales to slicing the fish "as thinly as possible" from olive . Henrietta advises that dicing, rather than slicing, will "ensure a good distribution of raw fish and fish cooked on the outside" -- contrast between