version from the Waitrose website to Saveur's salty sauce. The egg yolk they beat in as well is overkill though: let's be honest: this is not a dish that needs any added richness. Julia and Raymond Blanc don't bother with bechamel at all, and their sandwiches seem rather dull and dry in comparison. Although, it must be admitted, it's a pretty high bar: toasted cheese and ham will always be delicious. Flavourings Saveur recipe croque monsieur. Photograph: Felicity Cloake The croque, while essentially a simple beast, often comes accessorised with dijon mustard, the acidic heat tempering its outrageous cheesiness. Waitrose and Jamie magazine stir it into their bechamel, but to ensure a dollop in every mouthful, I'm going to spread it generously on to the bread like Saveur and Raymond Blanc. The customary pinch of nutmeg in the bechamel here becomes an inspired combination with the nutty sweetness of the cheese. No one dares to fiddle any further, however: a classic's a classic, and once you start adding pineapple or tomato, you're straying into official variation territory (a croque Hawaiian and a croque provenal respectively). The cooking method Julia Child recipe croque monsieur. Photograph: Felicity Cloake Larousse explains that the croque is browned on both sides "either in butter in a frying pan or under the grill". Julia is in the frying camp while Raymond fries briefly and then finishes his wholemeal croque off in a hot oven for 5 minutes to melt the cheese (not a use of electricity