will carry for many years in the cellar. This will get better and better as it integrates and comes into harmony. Hidden Bench Locust Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 ($55, 93 points) -- It is with this more feminine style where my tastebuds are happiest. Like a seasoned ballerina, it shows elegance and poise from the first whiff of black cherry, raspberry, currants, violets and forest floor. It dances nimbly on the palate, with balanced and evocative red and dark fruits that mingle nicely with the cedar, spice and beetroot nuances. This is the kind of stuff I look for in top Burgundian reds and it will only get better with age. Nuit Blanche Hidden Bench Nuit Blanche Rosomel Vineyard 2010 ($40, 92 points) -- This classic blend of Sauvignon Blanc (88%) and Semillon (12%) sees aging in older French oak barrels. The Sauvignon Blanc is picked once for acidity earlier in the harvest and later for riper flavours to provide the balance in a hot vintage. It is a style that very few attempt in Niagara, made along the lines of great white Bordeaux. It has a nose of creamy peach pie, passion fruit, subtle lime zest, smoke, integrated spice, herbs and minerals. It is complex and interesting on the palate with intense stone fruit and lime cordial, marzipan, spice and surprising verve and energy through the finish. In its youth the Nuit Blanche shows freshness but it will soften and develop lovely honey and nut notes if cellared