Raoul Island; we enjoyed the good company of the officers and ratings on HMNZS Otago, and the flow of ideas and energy within the artistic group was a rare and valuable thing. By the time we arrived at Nuku'alofa, the possibility of the entire Kermadec region becoming a marine reserve was something we all believed passionately in -- bearing in mind that the objective is not to keep humanity out of the region (how could we deny others the privilege we ourselves had just been granted?), but rather to offer a respectful, responsible set of parameters within which human beings can function as custodians for the future rather than exploiters of the present.