business on the scale that Martin had in mind. Cut to Hollywood, 1946. Martin's sitting at the Cock 'n' Bull pub in Hollywood, commiserating with its owner, Jack Morgan. Morgan, you see, had been bottling this nice, spicy ginger beer that nobody wanted to drink. The deal was done: Smirnoff, Cock 'n' Bull ginger beer, and half a lime (swiped, no doubt, from the Cuba Libre), dumped into a special copper mug -- sourced by yet another friend with business problems -- and stuck with a meaningless but catchy name. The Moscow Mule. A little careful promotion, and wham! Vodka's breakout cocktail. Professional bartenders hated it, but the suckers bit. At least the Moscow Mule is easy (your dog could make one), smooth, and refreshing. Taken by itself, it does no harm, and compared to so much that has followed, it's practically elegant.