ceviche. The fruity tanginess works well with the lime, and if you can find it, it's well worth a try, but a vibrant red bird's eye chilli will add heat and a splash of colour if not. Generosity with the salt, a step missed by many recipes, seems essential: the twin punch of the lime and the salt is an essential part of ceviche's appeal. Henrietta rubs it on the fish and leaves it to sit for a minute so the surface "is more receptive to the marinating liquid". This is a good tip: the fish seems to absorb the flavours better, both of the marinade and the seasoning itself. Herbs like coriander and parsley are often included to add freshness: coriander is most popular in the recipes I try, but Flor Arcaya de Deliot, author of The Food and Cooking of Peru , uses parsley instead, as well as celery, which also features in the River Cottage recipe. I find the pepperiness of the parsley less pleasing with the lime and the fish than the fresh flavour of the coriander. Marinating time Flor Arcaya de Deliot recipe ceviche. Photograph: Felicity Cloake Marinating time varies wildly, from Tom, who serves it as soon as it's all mixed together, to River Cottage, who suggest leaving it "for a minimum of an hour and a maximum of 12 hours; 3 -- 4 hours is about perfect". I find even 4 hours excessive: the fish has become chalky and dry. Tom's, meanwhile, is