How to make perfect ceviche Peruvian food's having a bit of what the fashion desk might call a "moment" -- in the novelty-hungry capital at least. I shall have to rely on all of you outside the London bubble to inform me whether Margate is currently going mad for mondongo , or Crewe crazy for cuy , but here three new restaurants specialising in the Peruvian cuisine have opened in the last six months. And, of course, in the manner of any self-respecting food trend there's a Peruvian pop-up, called, rather wonderfully, The Last Days of Pisco . Many of the dishes on offer -- the halibut with Andean herbs at Lima London , or the pumpkin and sweet potato doughnuts at Tierra Peru -- are not likely to become staples in British kitchens, but one dish which appears on all the menus, ceviche, really deserves to be brought to the attention of fish lovers. OK, so it's not strictly Peruvian -- it's common throughout Latin America, and I first came across it at a Mexican beach shack, but it's so associated with the country that they've declared a national holiday in honour of this vital piece of their culinary heritage. Ceviche, for those that steer clear of such vulgar things as trends, is, at its most basic, raw fish marinated in citrus juice and spices; the acid in the juice denatures the proteins in the meat in much the same way as cooking would. The flesh becomes opaque, the