unless you're coming just for the winter skiing, and sturdy shoes for walking. If you plan to tramp (hike) bring a good pair of boots. The hills are full of tramping tracks and huts that offer basic lodging: bunk beds, a wood-burning stove, cold running water, gas cook tops and, somewhere outside, a longdrop (outhouse). You have to carry everything else. The Department of Conservation maintains the tracks and huts and their offices have maps and other info. See www.doc.govt.nz for details. For information Getting in If you have a US passport, you don't need a visa for a three-month stay. Baggage areas at international airports are patrolled by trained sniffer dogs looking for banned fruit, vegetables, etc. Forgetting an apple in your backpack can result in an immediate $200 fine. If you're on your way home, be prepared to pay the $25 departure tax. Getting around New Zealand roads are good if they're paved but can be quite narrow, not to mention winding, out in the country. Many back roads are not paved, although some are metalled (graveled). Usually only the sheerest of drops have real guard rails. Keep to the left and watch for oncoming traffic, especially trucks. Be prepared to stop for flocks of sheep or herds of cattle being moved on the road. You can drive through them slowly, which is a hoot. Most paved roads around and between towns are two lanes with the occasional passing lane. Multi-lane highways are reserved for the larger cities.