tables for those who don't want to sit on the floor cushions. The kitchens have swapped to the opposite side, and a good, simple menu is still available. We don't drink Efes Pilsen all the time As it was still early and quiet when we arrived, a glass of cold ayran seemed like a sensible start to the evening. And then, while we listened to the music, the 'reserve' signs started to disappear and the people started to stream in. The place was packed and, within an hour, tables and floor cushions were full too. Later on and everyone is up, dancing If it's a weekend night or any sort of holiday time, you can guarantee it won't be long before people are up on their feet, dancing and singing. Other evenings, it will be quieter - but Ahmet will still be there, playing the saz. We don't go down to the tents too often but when we do, it's always a special evening. It's good to know they're there. @ BacktoBodrum: The tents in al?? are open all year round and the live music (amazingly) is on every night. More atmosphere at the weekends, though. If you're here over Kurban Bayram, they'll be packed. :)