in Egypt or get lost in the Christian quarter of the Syrian city of Damascus. With short travel distances between sights, you can see a surprising amount in a short period of time, even travelling overland. To cover or not to cover? Unless you're travelling to a part of the Middle East that requires you to do so by law (such as Iran, Yemen and Saudi Arabia), there is no need to cover your hair. In fact, if you're not a Muslim and choose to wear a hijab, many locals will find it confusing. You should, however, dress respectfully. Look around and see what local women are wearing. You'll receive much less attention if you're wearing long pants and a t-shirt that covers your shoulders and midriff. A scarf, always a funky accessory anyway, comes in handy on the odd occasion you visit a mosque that requires your hair to be tucked out of sight before you enter. There are some places where you can get away with wearing less -- any of the Dead Sea beaches and major tourist sites like Petra and the pyramids. But just because you can doesn't mean you should. Dressing modestly shows that you respect local customs and culture. Plus, it means you don't need to worry about shaving your legs! A little shukran goes a long way Arabic is the primary language of much of the region and although English is usually pretty widely spoken particularly in countries like Lebanon and Jordan, as