which washed away waste twice a day. The doorways of the huts were deliberately created low, so any attackers would have to stoop to enter which would make it easier for defenders to clobber them around the head. As light was fading, we made our way back to the Beachside Holiday Park and took a look around the eponymous beach. More beaches awaited us on our last day. Driving back down from the Bay of Islands, we took the scenic route along the coast, which allowed us to stop off at various bays, parks and beaches including Bream Bay and Whangarei Heads. Waipu Cove in particular stood out. Waipu? Well, when you have to go.... It had almost perfectly still water, and wonderful murals on the outside of the public toilet walls: Our last trek in the country was up to the lookout on the Dome Forest Walkway. I was a little too enthusiastic and managed to twist my ankle running up these steps: It's lucky I was at the peak of physical fitness with the pain threshold of a rhino, as I could easily saunter on as if nothing had happened. (This may not strictly be true, but after some grumbling I managed to limp up to the top). We hit the road, found another campsite within easy driving distance of the airport, and settled in for a final night. Our travels around New Zealand were at an end. It is a marvellously scenic country, with something to appeal